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Excuse the daft question but if the fug was on the road already then isn't this simply a resto so no need for SVA /BIVA etc. ? Coming along nicely James Yes, but it’s on an age related plate.... so could be a problem in the future..... just thinking of doing stuff now rather than having to do it later |
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Excuse the daft question but if the fug was on the road already then isn't this simply a resto so no need for SVA /BIVA etc. ? Coming along nicely James Yes, but it’s on an age related plate.... so could be a problem in the future..... just thinking of doing stuff now rather than having to do it later You are quite possibly fine. It all depends on a couple of things - basically when it was built and what it's registered as. Assuming it is correctly registered at the moment, there are no grounds for calling it in for BIVA and re-registering it. It's only if it's not correctly registered that you could have problems. |
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1968 Cal Look Beetle - 2007cc motor - 14.45@93mph in full street trim
1970-ish Karmann Beetle cabriolet - project soon to be re-started.
1986 Scirocco - big plans, one day!
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Thats my thinking too.
Mine also has the dated plate from the donor vehicle, its 1972 L registration, but the V5 says UVA Fugitive so I don't expect to have any problems.
If the logbook says Beetle or VW saloon for example you might have a problem and I'd be studying the BIVA manual throughout the build.
If the logbook isnt correct and you build for BIVA while rebuilding anyway then once re-registered it will be one of the most desirable Fugitives on the road, and therefore more sell-able if you ever need it to be.
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We brought the fugitive home for the weekend, we hadn't got much time over the weekend but with it home, we could pop out and do bits. This was complicated by having temporary traffic lights right at the end of the drive!  which makes it hard enough to reverse on the drive anyway as you can only approach from one way.... with the fugitive it was a little more challenging... which resulted in us locking one of the wheels with the trailer board cable  Saturday morning it rained, so we replanned, and worked on it in the afternoon (but it got dark, so we didnt take many photos) we welded in threaded inserts into the rails for the pedal box  slotted the frame, and mounted that with the last M8 bolts we have (* must get some bolts)  then Tom had a play  (told you it got dark  ) this morning we welded in some tabs for the floor welded the first one in  then welded a couple more  they were better, so went back and 'adjusted' the first one   (still need some practice I know, but getting better) welded in 4 corners and some tabs along the length   put some bolts in the steering stops (temporarily, as need some M8s) and had to move the steerer arm as it didn't hit the stops  (this should remind me ) and checked the seat harness thing on a tube  which fits nicely! then took it back up the farm, and fireworks in a bit! |
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Nov 12, 2017 21:41:57 GMT
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Not much done this weekend, after the traffic lights last week that were due to running electric to the building development two doors down. This weekend they ran a new water main to it, so access was even worse!!  We sorted some scrap on Saturday  Then today after Rememberance Parade we went and had a play at the Farm (when Anglian Water let us  ) We fitted the brake master cylinders, there is a 625 and 7, Don’t know which one to run for the front and which to the back though, fronts are twin piston, so I assume will need a bit more fluid, even though the tears have bigger pistons now ?   Then we made some templates for the floor and front bulkhead, which means we can fix the reservoirs on.   And worked out where the bar for the shoulder straps needs to go  And having watched Pneumas svx thread, Tom had a go at a vlog... they seem to be gaining some traction on here, and it’s hard to get Tom to write stuff, so this seems a possible way of getting him involved in this thread too |
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Nov 12, 2017 21:44:25 GMT
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here it is......... Sorry, we’ll work a bit harder at our presentation next time |
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Video unavailable buddy.
*edit - thought maybe my VPN was stopping me watch but just switched it off and still no video
Your brakes... Leave enough slack in your hard lines to swap them over if you don't like the operation of whichever you choose. You will likely find that both can push enough fluid to operate front or rear. But your smaller cylinder will give you a higher pressure for the same effort, so its really up to you if you want front or rear biased brakes. In your shoes I'd just try it and see (both my Baja and my Volksrod needed rear-biased).
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Last Edit: Nov 13, 2017 6:56:27 GMT by fad
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Your brakes... Leave enough slack in your hard lines to swap them over if you don't like the operation of whichever you choose. You will likely find that both can push enough fluid to operate front or rear. But your smaller cylinder will give you a higher pressure for the same effort, so its really up to you if you want front or rear biased brakes. In your shoes I'd just try it and see (both my Baja and my Volksrod needed rear-biased). Think that works now, Brakes are adjustable on the pedalbox, so should be plenty of slack, but will maybe add a bit more whilst we sort it out Cheers |
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Nov 13, 2017 11:26:08 GMT
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Looking good!
As Fad says, it's more about the bias than moving enough fluid, but just as a point of interest, a single piston sliding calliper and a 2 piston fixed one should be considered as theoretically identical when doing any calculations.
Although there's only one piston, because the calliper will slide after the first pad hits, the piston will have to move twice as far, so the fluid movement's the same as a 2 piston. Then thanks to equal and opposite forces, the opposing pad will have the same force put on it that a second piston would have been providing, so the force is the same too. Hopefully I've explained that with a hint of sense!
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Nov 13, 2017 11:55:46 GMT
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Looking good! As Fad says, it's more about the bias than moving enough fluid, but just as a point of interest, a single piston sliding calliper and a 2 piston fixed one should be considered as theoretically identical when doing any calculations. Although there's only one piston, because the calliper will slide after the first pad hits, the piston will have to move twice as far, so the fluid movement's the same as a 2 piston. Then thanks to equal and opposite forces, the opposing pad will have the same force put on it that a second piston would have been providing, so the force is the same too. Hopefully I've explained that with a hint of sense! Yes, forgot that bit... so makes perfect sense! |
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921 
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Nov 13, 2017 13:19:26 GMT
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On the bar for the harness, can you not simply put a bar across the existing frame about where there is a hole ? might look a bit neater Could always add some triangulation down to your wooden position.
Pretty sure you can go higher and further back and harnesses are happy.
James
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Nov 13, 2017 16:40:25 GMT
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On the bar for the harness, can you not simply put a bar across the existing frame about where there is a hole ? might look a bit neater Could always add some triangulation down to your wooden position. Pretty sure you can go higher and further back and harnesses are happy. James Probably yes, will have another look...... that’s why I like posting here first, there’s normally another that I haven’t thought of |
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Nov 13, 2017 16:43:55 GMT
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Popped in for a brew at Andy’s And collected the YELLOW brake calipers too  And Mark is sorting us some ally chequer plate to our templates for the weekend |
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Nov 13, 2017 17:47:56 GMT
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 like this ? Nice progress |
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Nov 13, 2017 19:48:41 GMT
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like this ? Nice progress The holes in the tube where your crossbar is are, I assume, for the top of a 3 point seatbelt Thanks |
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Nov 13, 2017 19:53:33 GMT
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not a criticism , just an observation...but if it were mine I think I would have some other secondary locking mechanism on that pedal box rather than relying on those pinch bolts. I'm sure they wont slacken off but if they did in an emergency situation the brown stuff would certainly be flowing well! coming along well now mind.
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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Nov 13, 2017 20:00:34 GMT
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not a criticism , just an observation...but if it were mine I think I would have some other secondary locking mechanism on that pedal box rather than relying on those pinch bolts. I'm sure they wont slacken off but if they did in an emergency situation the brown stuff would certainly be flowing well! coming along well now mind. Hadn’t thought that.... until now Any suggestions? Could maybe fit a screwed stop behind the runners so the box would push against the threads.... :/ |
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Nov 13, 2017 20:04:53 GMT
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precisely what I had in my mind...but done without compromising the strength of the mount.
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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Nov 13, 2017 20:24:31 GMT
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Put Nordlock washers under the bolt heads.
I agree with the earlier suggestions on tying the harness bar into the rear stays - it certainly won't be very rigid the way you have the wood there unless that's just for mockup, because there's no triangulation on the outers to spread the load.
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Nov 13, 2017 22:03:11 GMT
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like this ? Nice progress The holes in the tube where your crossbar is are, I assume, for the top of a 3 point seatbelt Thanks So, had another read.... and most of the harness installation instructions seem to say the shoulder strap has to be between 0 degrees (horizontal) and between 20 and 45 degrees down, so the harnesses pull you down onto the seat....  If I fit the bar there, it would be above the horizontal, which is about where the wooden bar is, though with Tom being shorter I should probably use a lower bar? I did start fitting a bar that was lower, tacked it in, but then convinced myself it was wrong... so stopped, but this would be about 15-20 degrees  I think retractable harnesses can be fitted upwards from the shoulders, so maybe mount the bar higher and use them instead  |
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