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Quick question.
Are the bits to fit a rover v8, on the shelf or is it quite a bit of work?
Wasn't sure with the amount of spares available for them, was hoping it might be a fairly straight fordward swap
Thanks.
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1994 BMW 525i touring
2004 BMW Z4 sorn and broken
1977 Ford Escort
1982 Ford Capri getting restored
1999 Mazda B2500 daily driver.
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Yes, putting the Rover v8 into a rubber bumper MGB is a well trodden path - there's a book by Roger Williams 'How to give your MGB V8 power' which is worth reading. Also, Roger Parker's website MGB V8 is a good source of advice. Quite a few people on RR have done it too, so there's plenty of info out there. |
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V8 MGB GT sprint and track
V8 Ford Pilot Woodie project
1971 Early Bay VW camper
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A lot of this depends on your level of mechanical expertise and your tool arsenal.
A Rover V8 into a late model MGB is as close to a bolt-in swap as you can get. It does however require a substantial amount of money, time and space to pull off the conversion.
I would highly recommend Roger Parker's book on the subject. Literally walks you through the job.
The Midget is a non-starter if you want to avoid serious fabrication work.
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Helped do a rubber bumper B 30 odd years ago, it wasn't too bad, from memory the clutch housing had to be cut to clear the starter motor but otherwise it was pretty much a bolt in job with the kit parts and worked very well afterwards, the only recurring problem was manifold to head leaks and the tubular manifolds were a real pain to get off, nowdays you can get gaskets and high temp silicone which I have used on other RV8's and seems a robust fix.
Some people replace the original box with the 5 speed LT77 I don't know if there are any kits for this.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,201
Club RR Member Number: 170
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MGB's and midgetsChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Many people replace the 4 speed + Overdrive for the later gearbox  . It's a tougher unit than the OD item. As said, the V8 conversion in a 'B has been done before. It's fairly simple as far as conversion go, but it is not as cheap as it once was. Engines are gearboxes are no longer quite that bargainous for one and the bolt on bits do soon add up. Yes you can save money by going secondhand on carbs etc. but IME seconhand carbs seem to be sold for a reason and usually end up costing that carb it's reputation ; Google " Triumph Stag Holley" and you will see what I mean. For the Midget it probably can be done but it would make far more sense to go with a K Series in one of those. Even with a humble 1.4 they shift; a 1.4 16v still offers more power than a mildly tuned 1275 and with far superior MPG. However that is not cheap either as there is plenty more to upgrade on a Midget ; the brakes are poor even in standard form! |
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gazz81
Part of things
Posts: 842 
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Stick a yb Cosworth engine in and be done with it!
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You would be better off putting in a decent modern 4 cylinder, it will make more power than the Rover V8!
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You would be better off putting in a decent modern 4 cylinder, it will make more power than the Rover V8! T Series turbo would be ideal! |
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gazz81
Part of things
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vanpeebles
Part of things
I am eastbound in pursuit of a white Lamborghini, this is not a recording.
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Supercharge or turbo the B series instead  |
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gazz81
Part of things
Posts: 842
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Its such a dated design though! Unless you are wanted to keeping the car original whats the point in starting off with a 90bhp pushrod boat anchor!
You will need to throw so much money at it to get anywhere near a more modern engine, usually at the cost of reliability!
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vanpeebles
Part of things
I am eastbound in pursuit of a white Lamborghini, this is not a recording.
Posts: 978
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For me the B suits the driving style of the car, it's not the kind of car that corners flat out or drifts wildly. The low revving, low down 8 valve torque suits it more than a high revving 16v etc.
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gazz81
Part of things
Posts: 842
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I agree, for the car its perfect. But as the OP is looking to change it anyway, there are a few options to look at.
I must admit I drove a 2.1 B series Sebring rep many years ago and that was nuts!
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For me the B suits the driving style of the car, it's not the kind of car that corners flat out or drifts wildly. The low revving, low down 8 valve torque suits it more than a high revving 16v etc. A modern 16 valve 2 litre engine will have more torque down low than a B series anyway. Whether you choose to use the upper part of the rev range or not is up to you. Edit to add some data: 1971 UK spec MGB (Wikipedia) 95 bhp (71 kW) at 5,500 rpm, with 105 lb·ft (142 N·m) torque at 2500 rpm (probably measured gross, without fan, alternator, air cleaner, etc.) 2001 Ford Focus 1.8 (Autoevolution) 114 BHP @ 5500 RPM 118 lb-ft @ 4400 RPM 2001 Ford Focus 2.0 (Autoevolution) 129 BHP @ 5550 RPM 131.3 lb-ft @ 4500 RPM 2004 Ford Focus 2.0 (Autoevolution) 146 BHP @ 6000 RPM 136.5 lb-ft @ 4500 RPM Honda S2000 (Autoevolution) 247 BHP @ 8300 RPM (!) 153.4 lb-ft @ 7500 RPM Just a few for example, I'm actually impressed how well the B series did in this comparison. The modern engines are half the weight though. |
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vanpeebles
Part of things
I am eastbound in pursuit of a white Lamborghini, this is not a recording.
Posts: 978
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What do they make at the same rpm? I do find all this "modern" talk amusing on a retro car forum though  |
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That information is very tricky to find accurately, but if you Google search for torque curve images, the Ford Zetec has basically a flat torque curve from 2000rpm to about 5000rpm, so it might be a close race for the 1.8 litre.
I like old cars, but as an engineer I can see the clear superiority of modern engines. And in any case, I dislike the Rover V8 because they make absolutely no power.
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Quick question. Are the bits to fit a rover v8, on the shelf or is it quite a bit of work? ....was hoping it might be a fairly straight fordward swap Thanks. I read that the OP is not very experienced in the swap game and simplicity is of value. Off the shelf parts and a well traveled path that he can follow seem to be important. Equally important is that there are websites dedicated to just this conversion, so the support is huge and will both keep you out and get you out of trouble. The modern 4 pots all have electronics and metal fabrication needs. The one thing that needs mentioning about a B V8 swap is the need to change the rear end gear. Or the entire axle. A 3.07 or 3.37 is better suited to the nature of the V8. This bit will cost you as much as an engine by the time it is done. An easier and cheaper swap that is well traveled is the GM 3.4 60 degree V6 and T5 gearbox. The header and mounts kits are cheap enough at around $600 USD and at least in NA the engines are easy enough to find. While they can be carbed or FI, the path to either option is well documented will all parts "off the shelf" |
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Thanks for the replys, I'm more thinking is there anything simple that you could buy off the shelf mounts, prop wiring loom really. Make it a bit plug and play.
My dad was 70 last week and spent it in intensive care.
Me and my sisters want to surprise him now for his 71st as this year will be write off for him getting back on his feet.
But my dad said a few times he's always wanted a mgb v8,
I'm interested in other old cars too for him, just want to know about the mg's
Is there a bigger engine that a direct replacement for the original?
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1994 BMW 525i touring
2004 BMW Z4 sorn and broken
1977 Ford Escort
1982 Ford Capri getting restored
1999 Mazda B2500 daily driver.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,878
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
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MGB's and midgetsadam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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Quick question. Are the bits to fit a rover v8, on the shelf or is it quite a bit of work? ....was hoping it might be a fairly straight fordward swap Thanks. I read that the OP is not very experienced in the swap game and simplicity is of value. Off the shelf parts and a well traveled path that he can follow seem to be important. Equally important is that there are websites dedicated to just this conversion, so the support is huge and will both keep you out and get you out of trouble. The modern 4 pots all have electronics and metal fabrication needs. The one thing that needs mentioning about a B V8 swap is the need to change the rear end gear. Or the entire axle. A 3.07 or 3.37 is better suited to the nature of the V8. This bit will cost you as much as an engine by the time it is done. An easier and cheaper swap that is well traveled is the GM 3.4 60 degree V6 and T5 gearbox. The header and mounts kits are cheap enough at around $600 USD and at least in NA the engines are easy enough to find. While they can be carbed or FI, the path to either option is well documented will all parts "off the shelf" The GM V6 isn't necessarily so easy to find in the UK though, although it is a very popular swap in the US so shouldn't be /too/ hard to get bits, but once you include shipping etc. costs, it would mount up If OP is just after a bit more kick, then there is the bolt on supercharger kit for the B series, which with a bit of tuning probably wouldn't be too far off a 3.5 Rover V8 in terms of power? It is about £3k for the kit though |
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. It's a tougher unit than the OD item.
