Davey
Posted a lot
Resident Tyre Nerd.
Posts: 2,320
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Apr 10, 2017 15:06:19 GMT
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If only it was like a whole bunch of newer cars, where you just thread an M10 bolt in to the holes in the tophat a turn at a time and it pushes itself off. Or cracks the disk around the boltholes because its so seized... Ask me how i know. Big hammer. Big whacks. Avoid all ball joints and anything with a thread!
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K11 Micra x3 - Mk3 astra - Seat Marbella - Mk6 Escort estate - B5 Passat - Alfa 156 estate - E36 compact Mk2 MR2 T-bar - E46 328i - Skoda Superb - Fiat seicento - 6n2 Polo - 6n polo 1.6 - Mk1 GS300 EU8 civic type S - MG ZT cdti - R56 MINI Cooper S - Audi A3 8p - Jaguar XF (X250) - FN2 Civic Type R - Mk2 2.0i Ford Focus
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,256
Club RR Member Number: 170
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It seems you've made a bit of progress since I last saw this! As for the disc I've been there before. On a Mondeo MkIV. It's a common problem on them apparently. The bell rusts internally meaning that the disc will not come away from the hub. The garage I use for MOTs has actually cut discs off the cars in the past due to this! Given how long it took me to get the disc off (a very long time!) the other side did go quicker: I got the other side off quicker by: -spraying the inside of the bell with WD40, or wherever I could access it from behind. -Chipping away the loose rust -Removing the disc with many blows of the hammer. I was going to use a 3 legged puller on it believe it or not and a friend did offer out his press to me. But I reckon you'll get there .
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
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Apr 17, 2017 14:15:19 GMT
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Thank you everyone who suggested the 'curse word it with a hammer method', just been out to try and remove the passenger front disc which was also stuck and its done the job! Graduated from the neighbour friendly rubber mallet to the proper hammer Didn't actually take as many hits as I was expecting to loosen off so hopefully the drivers side won't be too bad when I revisit it Looks as though the rust was more around the outside edge of the hub interface rather than the mounting face, in any case, I'll copper grease both bits up to hopefully avoid them sticking together again for whoever next has the pleasure of taking the discs off Other wins/surprises I've had today, both of the disc retention screws came out without me having to resort to the drill, and all 4 of the pistons retracted in the caliper with not too much effort I've just been cleaning up some flash rust off the new discs while I wait for the caliper paint to dry. I should have both front brakes done today
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Apr 17, 2017 16:28:11 GMT
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Difficult to photograph but the front left brake is all back together I then tried to start it to move it and it didn't quite want to cough into life, think I may have flooded it and the battery was a little flat So I'll take the plugs out, see how they're looking, and charge the battery and return to it tomorrow. Just don't have the energy today
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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Apr 18, 2017 10:22:14 GMT
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Just been catching up with what I've missed. Top work! There was a moment where I was praying that the Racing Beat exhaust would fit (on FBs they're all designed for LHD and the downpipe doesn't clear the steering box. Obviously FCs have a bit more wiggle room). Moments silence for the late, great Jim Mederer, founder of Racing Beat and demon of the Salt, who passed away recently If the plugs are fouled (flooded) they'll never be the same again. You can get a bit of life out of them with a blowtorch, probably enough to get it started but you'll really need to replace them as soon as possible. Otherwise starting will be a chore and you will flood it again... and it's a downwards spiral. But not in a NIN sorta way
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Last Edit: Apr 18, 2017 10:23:13 GMT by luckyseven
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Apr 18, 2017 10:27:24 GMT
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I was of the understanding that copper grease is out dated? I got told to use graphite grease on my P100 build?
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96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-( 10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily 03 Import Forester STi - Sold 98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-( 99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold 02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX 88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
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Club RR Member Number: 45
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Apr 18, 2017 10:47:51 GMT
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As to the missing PCV line, I don't think it really matters. I believe that it's only so that if loads of oil mist and oomska gets pushed into the PCV circuit, it can vent the excess. It's neater and more environmentally sound to splurt it back into the oil filler neck but you could just let it splurge out to atmosphere and find its way eventually down the engine bay and out the bottom of the car Or even a catch tank if you feel the need, and have the room for, more shiny bits in the bay
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Last Edit: Apr 18, 2017 10:48:33 GMT by luckyseven
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
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Apr 18, 2017 17:16:59 GMT
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SmokeEm You could well be right to be fair! It's just what I had to hand really But should do the job of keeping them from fusing together at least luckyseven Thanks! Yes that was sad news about his passing I do still need to do a little adjustment on the exhaust as the tips are hanging a bit low.. But nothing some new hangers shouldn't be able to sort I'd forgotten about the PCV to be honest, at most I'll probably just put a hose on the open port and run it out the bottom of the engine bay so it limits the amount of grime on everything After having just been working on the car today, I will definitely be needing new plugs... So today's update is less optimistic than yesterdays The hammer trick which worked on the passenger front disc, hasn't worked on the drivers front disc.. borrowed a heat gun to see if that would help but still that disc doesn't want to budge. Have rather run out of ideas on that one, apart from buying more penetrant and keep hammering away After giving up on the brakes for the day, I looked at the non starting. (with the help of Matt ( Rafftank)) I always find having two people thinking about an issue helps so much more than trying to figure it out on your own. Ever since I'd done the exhaust and supporting mods, the car has been poor at starting, its also always smelled rich and has made various odd clicking noises under the bonnet. Until now I'd kind of put those aside and hoped it would clear up with a bit of a run. Today however I'd noticed that some of the clicking seems to be coming from the vicinity of the secondary fuel injectors. Pulling the dipstick found the oil to be not the consistency of oil... Which indicated an overfuelling issue of sorts. Matt then had the good idea to turn the key to idle with the EGI (fuel injection) fuse pulled, and sure enough the clicking stopped. So off with the UIM (again!) and Matt looked down the intake runner while I turned the key to ignition. The secondary injectors were spraying with the car just sat on ignition! So I must have made a mistake when wiring up the injectors as I had to cut off the old plugs and splice on new ones. The wires must be the wrong way round Major idiot moment from me! So plan of action must now be: Re-wire the injectors properly New plugs Drain and change the oil and filter And hope that I've not done any lasting damage to the engine
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Apr 25, 2017 19:44:33 GMT
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Not been on for a couple of weeks now good to see the patented method worked on one side. For your continuing struggles I think I speak for everyone when I say you need a bigger hammer! I've seen my sweating away absolutely battering a disc with a 1lb mallet for way longer than expected. It WILL eventually free! As for the running issue I know very little about rotaries but I'm glad you've caught it in time.
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adam73bgt
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Apr 26, 2017 21:19:00 GMT
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Not been on for a couple of weeks now good to see the patented method worked on one side. For your continuing struggles I think I speak for everyone when I say you need a bigger hammer! I've seen my sweating away absolutely battering a disc with a 1lb mallet for way longer than expected. It WILL eventually free! As for the running issue I know very little about rotaries but I'm glad you've caught it in time. Aha yeah, when the weather improves and I've got the energy I'll get back to hitting it, the neighbours won't be enjoying it much though mind! Small update on the fuelling issue. Unplugged all the injectors the other day and turned the key to ignition. Was greeted with clicking sounds from the fuel pump and injectors again which baffled me The front one of the two new injectors is still wet with fuel though, so I think its defective and leaking which will be very annoying as its practically brand new. Next step is to swap the old injectors back in and prime the rail to see if the relay keeps clicking on ignition, then hopefully I will have found the culprit!
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adam73bgt
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May 21, 2017 17:59:34 GMT
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Might as well update this as I'm losing patience with the 7 now... So the past month or so has been spent trying to troubleshoot what is going on with the RX7, its been overfuelling massively and is generally not happy. I did a bit of swapping round of secondary injectors between the 750cc ones I bought and the originals but didn't make much progress Then looking back at the site where I got my Rtek ECU chip from, I noted a fairly crucial bit of info.. The chip is only designed to work with the N370 or N374 (US and Japan respectively) ECUs. My car, being a UK car, has an N380 ECU.. Luckily I'd recently bought a load of FC bits, including a couple of ECUs and one JDM N374 ECU. I tried a few different combos of ECU, chip and fuel injector but the crux of it is, the N374 ECU, with Rtek chip and 750cc injectors, which should work, doesn't work!! Turned the key to ignition and was greeted with injectors injecting and one of the injectors has now sprung a leak as well from the side of the injector So yeah, pretty fed up with it. I guess my next move would be to get a better pair of new injectors but at this point I just don't know Anyone know a good place to get a pair of 750cc injectors?
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Last Edit: May 21, 2017 18:00:49 GMT by adam73bgt
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sb
Part of things
Posts: 725
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May 21, 2017 19:33:09 GMT
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Oh are you the Adam that came and picked the box of parts up from me?!
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adam73bgt
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May 21, 2017 21:50:05 GMT
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Oh are you the Adam that came and picked the box of parts up from me?! Aha yes it must have been, I did wonder when I saw the Datsun pickup Have you still got your FC?
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Last Edit: May 21, 2017 21:50:21 GMT by adam73bgt
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sb
Part of things
Posts: 725
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May 21, 2017 22:01:38 GMT
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Oh are you the Adam that came and picked the box of parts up from me?! Aha yes it must have been, I did wonder when I saw the Datsun pickup Have you still got your FC? Ahh ok, shouldve made that connection. Glad to see the ecus went to use, I thought whoever bought it was likely to toss them honestly. Yes the truck is a bit of a give away! Still have the FC, it just went to a bodyshop the day before. Hope things work re the injectors, after working on mine all week I know how frustrating these cars can be.
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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May 21, 2017 22:04:00 GMT
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these rotaries can be a real tw*t if part or all of the emissions are removed whilst still using the stock ecu....many change to a standalone where at least you can tune most of the gremlins out. Stick at it mate.
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adam73bgt
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sb aha they came in fairly handy in the end, to be honest I wasn't really sure what I was gonna do with any of the bits but I'm a bit of a spares hoarder! Mine needs to go to a bodyshop as well at some point if I ever get it running! ian65 yeah was hoping I wouldn't have to go to the full expense of a standalone as it wasn't meant to be that sort of in depth project! I'll keep trying to get it going though As a back up I could just stick a stock ECU with stock secondaries in, and put a Fuel Cut Defender in there, but it feels like a bodgy way to do it MOT runs out soon as well, so its all going great... I think if I didn't have quite so much money tied up in the 7, I'd be tempted to pull the engine and stick it in my MGB
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
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Club RR Member Number: 45
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May 22, 2017 10:52:32 GMT
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Injected rotaries are night and day when you run them on a standalone as opposed to the stock ECU, well worth the money. Only problem being that the default "affordable" ECU for FCs, the Apexi Power FC is rare as hen's teeth. One of the Japanese import houses is probably your best bet.
Better that tahn trying to force several elements from disparate origins to fit and work together, then find out you've chipped it for 105-RON hi-test like they get in Japanland or TrumpWorld and it'll det like a sunuvabitch on rubbish UK 95RON
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sb
Part of things
Posts: 725
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May 22, 2017 11:06:20 GMT
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Hayward rotary sorted my power fc and it wasnt an awful price, may be worth talking to Carl.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
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Cheers guys, I had a bit of a look at standalones but I'm not sure I'm ready to make that jump just yet.. Is the Apexi Power FC a plug and play set up? For the time being, I've ordered an FCD so I can at least run the car as is with stock ECU and injectors Anyway, as a more positive update, I've made some progress on one of the RAYS wheels I bought however long ago Only loosely held together at the moment and the centre nut still needs work but its looking pretty cool to me! Oh and something which has been confusing me, the Fuel Pressure Regulator on the secondary fuel rail (Ignore the vacuum hose routing as I was experimenting) Every Service manual, or forum post or website I can find suggests that the FPR on the FC TII should have one vacuum port which goes to a solenoid. The purpose of the solenoid is to bump up fuel pressure when the engine is warm to avoid 'percolation' of the fuel. My FPR clearly has two vacuum ports, both of which go to separate solenoids via the vacuum spider piping. I'm just curious as to how this version of the system works! As I'm tempted to clear out the remaining vacuum solenoids while I've still got the UIM off..
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,243
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Those Rays look great now. They'd look good on the Mazda.
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