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Top grammar tips! Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Planning to do them all myself, I should have had enough of wheel refurbs now, but I do like the sense of achievement after you've put all the work in and they're looking good on the car
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My vote goes for copper coloured centres with a polished rim. Have you seen the Copper Caddy from Kindigit customs? The use of copper on that was stunning!
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96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-( 10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily 03 Import Forester STi - Sold 98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-( 99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold 02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX 88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Feb 19, 2017 18:30:32 GMT
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My vote goes for copper coloured centres with a polished rim. Have you seen the Copper Caddy from Kindigit customs? The use of copper on that was stunning! Super delayed reply from me but I hadn't seen that until just now. What a car! Copper is on the list of potentials Took a bit of time today to actually look at the engine on the Mazda and resolve some of my rushed work when I last put the intake back together Though I also took the opportunity to do a little tidying under the bonnet These brackets which support the airbox and other bits got a clean up The inner wing also came up nicely just needed a good scrub to get the ingrained dirt off, the photo of the brackets refitted seems to have disappeared from my phone.. Anyway, my main goal was to get the upper intake manifold off again, which was quicker this time now I've got a little practice under my belt And witness the pristine flat gasket surface... Yes I was in a proper rush to fit everything last time... All back to flat metal now though Just waiting on a new gasket and I can put things back together. While I've got it all apart though there are a few bits and bobs I can sort out, changing a couple of hoses which are a bit perished and some wiring too (the heat of the rotary really does cook everything in there!) But hopefully with that all back together the idle speed should be back to normal. Then I just need to investigate the clicking sound from the front end on ignition, which I think is related to the uprated fuel pump somehow.. I also took a pic of the car with the front plate off which is annoying since it looks so much better haha The paint on the front bumper and wings has gone flat so will need a good polish or mop Also I'm planning on taking the front bumper off as the 'slightly crusty' upper mounting strip is well and truly past it now.. Chances of finding an original part aren't looking all that great at the moment, may have to make something up but I'm hoping the two mountings down the sides are in better shape when I take the bumper off!
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ET
Part of things
Posts: 110
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Feb 22, 2017 19:13:32 GMT
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Looks great! Curious to see how the new wheels will look under the car! Hope that idle goes down quickly, nothing makes me more nervous than sitting in a too high idle car at a traffic light haha
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Feb 23, 2017 19:35:50 GMT
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Looks great! Curious to see how the new wheels will look under the car! Hope that idle goes down quickly, nothing makes me more nervous than sitting in a too high idle car at a traffic light haha Thanks Aha same, annoyingly they're quite down on my list of priorities, but as I think I'm going to need to jack the front up to take the bumper off, I might chuck one on for a quick test fit haha yeah, especially when the car has a fairly loud exhaust...
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Feb 26, 2017 16:30:18 GMT
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I might chuck one on for a quick test fit Well this won't be happening anymore... I took the BMW to get the tracking done yesterday and took the opportunity to get the tyres taken off the Rays while I was there Then I got a couple ratchets out and had a go at removing the bolts and nuts.. I had all 4 wheels split in a couple of hours haha. Compare that to the BBS RT two piece wheels I have for the BMW which I've been working on for some time now without having split one wheel and I'm much more in favour of 3 pieces The wheels are amazingly light without the tyres on, I have found a small crack in the rear lip of one of the wheels but ones already been welded up and was fine, so this shouldn't be too hard to sort once I find someone with the skills In other news, my gasket turned up for the intake manifold. Since they're not particularly cheap, I've elected to trace around it on some gasket paper, before fitting it I also finally managed to track down some correct rear discs through Amazon of all places! I won't do the brake work just yet as I wouldn't want the discs to go rusty again, but once it warms up, I've got everything I need I think And finally I've made some progress on the BBS RGII's, 3 of 4 are now in paint I'll give them another coat then some lacquer and they'll be ready for sale, apart from I still need to get the 4th one up to scratch, and rebuild the centre caps... On the car itself, I had a couple of bits turn up to allow me to sort the engine bay a little more, and now I've got the gasket I can crack on with putting it all back together and having it running again Getting there slowly!
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Feb 26, 2017 17:38:27 GMT
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great idea with the uim gasket... I'll do that with mine!
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Mar 16, 2017 23:09:06 GMT
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Wheel update! The BBS are finished, the last job I had to do on them was polishing the centre nut which was easy once I'd removed the old lacquer using Nitromors. They've come up quite nicely I think and should hopefully be sold soon I've also made a start on the Volk CV's, paint stripper has gone on the centre nuts and caps to help remove the nasty black paint, seems to be working so far Also had a little go at polishing one of the centre nuts a little, long way to go but they'll come up nice Aside from wheels, the really big news is that with the weather improving, I finally got myself to go outside and put the intake system back together, with nice new UIM gasket in there obviously Put it all back together, did a couple of tweaks to a couple of vacuum lines and wires and it started right up! The idle is now much lower, almost too low! But I can adjust that Theres a hissing air noise coming from the blanking plate for the air control valve, which I can change by pressing on the plate, so I'll be taking that off to make a second plate to double up with and add some stiffness I also need to work out how to bleed the damn coolant system as theres air all over it. And the passenger headlight has got a bit sticky so will need some lubrication Then I can turn my attention to the interior and give the whole car a good wash! Progress is being made
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,243
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Those wheels look ace and those Rays are going to look loads better when you're done with them, top stuff!
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Mar 25, 2017 20:37:09 GMT
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Those wheels look ace and those Rays are going to look loads better when you're done with them, top stuff! Cheers Still working on the wheels, got the black paint just about all stripped off the centres now, so getting them all smooth and etch primed while I decide on a colour Aside from wheels, the really nice weather has got me outside doing stuff to the 7. I gave it a wash (which inadvertently showed up where the roof is leaking into the interior...) and today I took off the air control valve blanking plate I made a while back and made a copy so I could double up Had to give it another little run and moved it up and down the drive slightly It's still quite smoky but I think thats mostly from being sat for ages with only short, cold runs at idle, when its on the road I'm hoping it will clear up with a quick blast! https://www.instagram.com/p/BSEok0OAUmR (Hoping the instagram vid will work.. It didn't, I'll figure it out later haha.. EDIT: Now works ) Tomorrow I will clean off the mould from the interior and fit the AEM voltmeter ready for the seats to go back in I think
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Last Edit: Mar 25, 2017 21:58:50 GMT by adam73bgt
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Had good weather this weekend and couldn't be bothered to work on the BMW so the Mazda got my attention once again On the wheel front there has been progress, the centre caps are in primer now And I've just finished with the first of the lips, there are some marks still on it but it was kerbed pretty badly so there was only so much I could sand out without removing half the lip material! I fitted the voltmeter and did a little tidying of the wiring. It's still not great as there's a lot of wire length that could be taken out but it all fits behind the dash and the gauges seem to work fine I also gave the whole interior a good clean out and have taped up the tears in the roof which were letting water in (new roof required this year for sure..) Refitted the seats and its more like a car again than a driveway ornament! Its very tempting to tax and insure it now so I can take it for a drive, but I really should do the brakes first otherwise I know I'll just leave them for ages the longer evenings should help with getting this sort of job done though
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Another '7' update! I taxed and insured it thinking that I would sod the brakes and just get it out and running about, then had a change of heart and started doing the brakes job while it was still sat on the drive I guess the notion that every day the brakes aren't sorted is another day of insurance and tax money wasted should give me some incentive to sort them quickly?... Anywho, I made a start on the rear drivers side brake, as you can see, a previous life of it being a summer car near the coast, plus being sat for the past few months have made for a crusty brake! The bolts to remove the caliper were easy enough to undo, combination of ratchet and rubber mallet saw to that. The disc retention screws looked in good nick so I was hopeful.. curse word, out with the drill for that then! (this became a recurring theme for the weekend) Anyway, I got the disc off and split the caliper housing and anchor ready for paint After a quick going over with a wire brush and some brake cleaner, I hit them with some gloss black high temp paint I had around from some work on the MG new pads went in with grease on the abutments and also some copper grease on the back of the pads for whatever anti-squeal properties it may or may not have Then I went to tackle the front right brake Nice and crusty as well.. The fronts are due to get the same treatment as the rears, new discs and pads and black painted calipers but I'll rub back the mazda logo so it shows up through the wheel The pads were a bit reluctant to come out, but eventually came with the use of two molegrips. Then one of the four pistons didn't want to retract but I forced it back in eventually The biggest issue however was/is that the disc doesn't want to come away from the hub. I've doused it in plus gas, have been smashing it with the rubber mallet and it hasn't budged at all. The hub is alloy I'm lead to believe so they've likely corroded together I think heat will be the answer there But for now I've chucked the old pads back in quickly and got the car back on its wheels so I could do the other side rear brake Similar story to the other side, had to drill the disc screws out but otherwise went smoothly Close up of the new abutment clips in before I put a little grease on them And all together Going to try and do the passenger front brake next in the hope that that disc isn't stuck to the hub, then I'll go back to the drivers side one with heat and/or a bigger hammer Once thats all done I'll be getting it out for a drive The idle speed needs some adjustment as its a bit low, and partial throttle from idle causes the car to stall so that needs a little attention
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sb
Part of things
Posts: 725
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Looks great! Curious to see how the new wheels will look under the car! Hope that idle goes down quickly, nothing makes me more nervous than sitting in a too high idle car at a traffic light haha Thanks Aha same, annoyingly they're quite down on my list of priorities, but as I think I'm going to need to jack the front up to take the bumper off, I might chuck one on for a quick test fit haha yeah, especially when the car has a fairly loud exhaust... You don't have to jack it up but it is a right curse word. The studs going into the wing are a pain to reach, but theres still a surprising amount of room with the wheel in place
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Thanks Aha same, annoyingly they're quite down on my list of priorities, but as I think I'm going to need to jack the front up to take the bumper off, I might chuck one on for a quick test fit haha yeah, especially when the car has a fairly loud exhaust... You don't have to jack it up but it is a right curse word. The studs going into the wing are a pain to reach, but theres still a surprising amount of room with the wheel in place Ah ok cheers for the tip I think my thinking was that with the front end of the car as low as it is, I wouldn't be able to get to the bolts underneath the splitter to be able to remove the bumper I've given up on thoughts to removing the bumper for the time being though as even if I got it off, I don't have a replacement for the metal strip that has rusted away lol The sills are a more pressing matter anyway, being down at that level to do the brakes gave me the opportunity to give them a closer look..
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I've had too many stuck brake discs to care about!!
My tip is, plus gas around the studs then bray hell out of the disc around where the hub is with a 4lb lump hammer (your rubber mallet will be absorbing all the energy you need to break the rust etc) not the friction part.
I use 3,6,9,12 o clock positions then two long screw drivers in the vent of the disc at 3&6 o clock and wiggle it off.
It can take a while but will eventually come off.
Just make sure the cars well supported, if your anything like me temper strength comes in at some point lol
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sb
Part of things
Posts: 725
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You don't have to jack it up but it is a right curse word. The studs going into the wing are a pain to reach, but theres still a surprising amount of room with the wheel in place Ah ok cheers for the tip I think my thinking was that with the front end of the car as low as it is, I wouldn't be able to get to the bolts underneath the splitter to be able to remove the bumper I've given up on thoughts to removing the bumper for the time being though as even if I got it off, I don't have a replacement for the metal strip that has rusted away lol The sills are a more pressing matter anyway, being down at that level to do the brakes gave me the opportunity to give them a closer look.. Ive just given up and booked mine in to have all three layers of sill replaced, as mine are starting to rot up the a pillar and into the floor. Have to replace the bumper strips too, thinking i could just glass it so it cant rot again.
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Yeah agree with the above, if it's not a disc I'm refitting the lump hammer comes out, combined with blind rage when it still doesn't come off I've never been defeated yet!
Great project been following it for a while now.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Apr 10, 2017 11:33:41 GMT
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If only it was like a whole bunch of newer cars, where you just thread an M10 bolt in to the holes in the tophat a turn at a time and it pushes itself off.
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