janm
Part of things
Posts: 42
|
|
Oct 30, 2015 15:09:10 GMT
|
Hi all, Long time viewer of the forum. Time for a presentation, some pics and info on my own project. By the looks, a nice but not too exciting old series1 But during the years there has been a few modifications to it. My first plan was to swap the 2.8 litre for a Chevy sb. Have had a couple of those in the past, felt like the prefered choice. Started to collect Chevy parts, filled the garage with the useful things. Some ancient all iron blocks, transmissions, carbs, manifolds and so on. Time passed but not much really happend. Besides, most of my finds turned out to be on the limit for repair/rebuild. The vision of that lumpy idle rumbling V8 bean to feel more and more like a too much nostalgia thing, very cool in the 80's but now.... well, not much of an evolution. So, I changed my mind and sold off the junk. Decided to keep it all Jaguar and instead use a newer generation engine/transmission. Found a sound AJ6 4.0 engine at a very reasonable price. And, with it, the rare Getrag 290 5-speed. The ECU from the donor car was, on the contrary, very unreasonably priced. A stand alone ECU seemed to be a better choice, bought a Megasquirt MS2 kit. Managed to get things to function quite well but sure took a while to become comfortable with the Megasquirt - quite a steep learning curve as they say. Had this running for a year or so but was not entirely happy with it. The 4.0 AJ6 sure has a lot of torque but didn't think it really matched the 5-speed very well. Maybe better suited for auto boxes. Anyway, had happened to find RichW's very inspiring thread on this forum on how to swap the 320hp AJ16 XJR6 engine into the s1. So I borrowed his concept. The AJ6 and AJ16 has the same bolt patterns for transmission, mounts and flywheel so it was almost a direct replacement. Honda Civik radiator for the intercooling. The engine didn't come with any exhaust manifolds so new ones was put together. Could not resist to do some grinding on the M90. There is also a 10% overdrive pulley to it. Rear end is the XJS 3.54 LSD. The X-brace, front sway bar and steering rack from XJ12 made huge difference in stability. And this is how things looks today. Dyno run. Countryside style. Average power 325 - 330 hp, 570 - 580 Nm. At the wheels. Not bad but, of course, only dyno numbers, useful when tuning. Finally, one more video. Two dash cam recordings into one. Red car is the 390hp S-type R. Thank's for reading. Comments, suggestions or questions are welcome /JanM
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 10, 2016 7:36:42 GMT by janm
|
|
|
omegod
Part of things
Posts: 166
|
|
Oct 30, 2015 15:18:30 GMT
|
Dear god that's gorgeous, and the noise.....
|
|
|
|
GT4ME
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,729
|
|
Oct 30, 2015 15:19:24 GMT
|
Superb! What a monster.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2015 16:32:28 GMT
|
I wasn't expecting that. That is fantastic, great work!!
|
|
1974 Skoda S100 tarmac car 1998 BMW 750 daily 1994 Mitsubishi Evo2
|
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2015 16:51:35 GMT
|
Oh yes..... classy sleeper! Like that alot!
Nick
|
|
1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
|
|
|
|
|
Amazing project! I'd definitely be interested in a more elaborate build report, especially regarding the megasquirt side - which seems to be the big hurdle.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Thats amazing great work. Whats next
|
|
|
|
düdo
Part of things
wide as house
Posts: 770
|
|
|
Grandad's cruiser slightly warmed up! The best of this series of Jags with the modern kick. I really like the cracked leather seats in the front too. I was going to ask whereabouts you are but I read that sign that flicks by in your video. Sweden?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Wow I'm in love with your car!
|
|
|
|
pOG
Posted a lot
SHATNER'S BASSOON
Posts: 1,341
|
|
|
Ermmm. AMAZING! Totally on the money. Old Jag, modern performance. Incredibly cool.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'm just so glad the concept has been proven in such fine form. I picked the wrong car really - my XJ6 'Ropey' was too far gone to be usable, I spent more time trying to sort out the corrosion issues than doing the conversion justice.
But after that video I really want to have a crack at another one!
|
|
"You're about as likely to come across a fully functioning old Jag, as you are a taxicab that smells agreeable." - James May
|
|
|
|
|
That moves.
Nice car mate.
|
|
1994 BMW 525i touring 2004 BMW Z4 sorn and broken 1977 Ford Escort 1982 Ford Capri getting restored 1999 Mazda B2500 daily driver.
|
|
bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
|
1970 Jaguar XJ6bstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
|
|
Would you share your map - a friend is fitting same engine in an Opel Monza - it's in the car but his previous engine was a 3.0 12V Opel so the map is very different
|
|
|
|
gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
|
|
|
Wow. That's fantastic. Would love to see more on that build. Really need to get something done on mine (XJRS into XJC - nothing done on it for years!)
Can you tell me more about the speedometer? Is it GPS?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Just love everything about this. The purest shape XJ combined with a great supercharged engine. Maximum win going on here. Respect is due mate, cracking car.
|
|
|
|
janm
Part of things
Posts: 42
|
|
|
Thanks a lot gentlemen for all your very kind comments.
Amazing respons, will try to answer all of the questions that keep dropping in.
Unfortunately, I’m an unbelievable slow writer. Best will be if I put together one detailed description on the build in common with some comments, with your questions in mind, and also one on the Megasquirt subject. Will probably take a couple of days I’m afraid.
Regarding plans for the future there is right now no very urgent needs, it is in fact a real pleasure to drive as it is. But, of course, it’s not by any means a finished project. First on the list would be to add an, preferably invisible, inch or so to the rims. The 205/70 tyres, good old chinese brand Goodride, are definitively not any longer up to the task. Maybe some better brand 225/60 or 215/65 instead. Space is limited and the original apperance is important. Same goes for the exhaust system. The s-shaped tailpipes is, although already slightly widened, probably a bit too restrictive but must not be touched no more. Some more power is of course, and as always, desirable. The whole air duct tubing is an much too narrow mess with knicks and bends all over. Should really need some rearrangement. With a bigger throttle body and some new adapter. The supercharger openings can probably be enlarged just a tad more. And that box for the air filter is not very pretty, should need some redesigning.
Lots of fun to do this winter.
And yes, the answer on the geographical quest was correct. As the legal speed limit in the video was slightly exceeded I was playing with the idea of blurring out those signs that was mentioned, maybe paste in something from the "das Autobahn" instead. But skipped that idea, hopefully no swedish traffic cops on this forum.
To be continued!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Absolutely sublime. That there is pretty much my perfect Retro Ride!
|
|
Love for old BMWs, Mercedes, Jaguars and Swedish Slabs!
|
|
|
|
|
And yes, the answer on the geographical quest was correct. As the legal speed limit in the video was slightly exceeded I was playing with the idea of blurring out those signs that was mentioned, maybe paste in something from the "das Autobahn" instead. But skipped that idea, hopefully no swedish traffic cops on this forum. Shouldn't worry too much, I posted about bribing paying an 'on-the-spot fine' to an officer in Manila, without any comeback. I love this and now bookmarked.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If you built these headers, would very much like to know more about the process. Are those sand bends or welded mandrels fabrication?
|
|
|
|
janm
Part of things
Posts: 42
|
|
|
Some more detailed info. At the time I did the first transplant, from the XK 2.8 4-sp od to the AJ6 4.0 5-sp, I was not aware of that engine mounts from the XJS are, as I understand it, a direct fit. Only knew that this kind of swap had been done before and that there should be space enough without too much modification. So, had the engine standing on some piles of wood blocks in what I determined to be the best position. Centred and leaning in what seemed to be the correct angle and with some 20 mm play down to the steering rack. Fabricated the mounts / towers. For the transmission I used a simple engine rubber pad mount from some Volvo, tapped new threads for it in the transmission housing. The support frame cross over thing was put together using parts from the old one, reinforced here and there. In order to get the gear shifter to fit as good as possible into the existing opening in the tunnel , the linkage rod, small u-joints in each end if I remember correct, was shortened as much as what seemed possible without affecting function. Some 1.5” was cut away, same with the gear shifter support box. The tunnel opening was enlarged maybe 1/2” towards the rear. The nice old shifter knob is from the 4-sp. The OD on-off switch would have been cool for operating some nitro shots but is right now wired to handle the dash cam. The front part of the propshaft, with the sliding yoke, is from the same donor car as the Getrag. Shortened at the rear and bolted together with the old 2-piece rear one. The support bearing and housing is for a Ford Transit, had the same shaft dia. Again, it was a couple of years ago I did this so I’m afraid i have forgotten exactly what parts that was involved. An alternative to this would of course had been to have a one-piece propshaft made, probably easier but I’m not fully aware of the advantages or disadvantages with the different types. The one I have has functioned ok, has taken quite a stress and fast spinning surprisingly well without any vibrations. And it has not even been balanced. And, about setting up or adjust the angles, how the eyes in the yokes should be lined and so on, I recommend reading some of the real old workshop manuals, often very detailed instructions. The rear end has had the coilover units shortened an inch for a lower ride. Problem with that is, own theory, that the vertical distance between the lower supporting points, the small radius arm bushes, and the upper mounts is decreased. The whole unit becomes more prone to twist or rotate under load. Nose of the diff goes up until traction is lost, nose fells down, traction once again forces the nose to go up and so on in cycles. One of the reasons for wheel tramp, a well known problem when the Jag IRS has to handle lots of power. This homemade HB clone anti tramp bar cured most of that. Another problem that comes with this transmission/ rear end combination is the lack of speedometer outputs. There are some different solutions to that, I choosed what seemed to be the easiest way, ordered a 4.5” GPS speedometer from Speedhut and had it sit inside the old 5” housing. There is a nice option of customizing the looks when ordering. That’s why the Jaguar logo. Did not come cheap though. Unfortunately, there is sometimes problems to have the GPS speedometers passing MOT. Hence the GP instead of GPS in the logo. The rev counter, Smiths RVI type with ignition wire loop inside, was functional but became more and more unreliable. Most of the electronics is now substituted for a small DIY circuit. Tach signal is from the ECU. And, talking about passing MOT. A picture of the engine dedicated for those occations, once every two years. The infamous AJ6 2.9. Used this engine for a short time last year. Coupled to the 5-speed it worked quite well. With it’s bad reputation in mind. Known to be one half of the V12. Read somewere a saying that Jaguar used the better half of that for the 2.9 litre. A joke of course! Believe I have to divide this build story into further more separate parts so I’ll take a brake here. Will be back in a couple of days with more details on the exhaust, fuel, ignition, cooling and so on. The Megasquirt thing will be later on. With maps and settings, no problems.
|
|
Last Edit: Feb 12, 2016 13:05:32 GMT by janm
|
|
|