|
|
Sept 18, 2015 21:51:48 GMT
|
Thanks yes the ebook sounds good? engine was just rough placement as I was out of time to play around with it, I think once the air con and power steering pump is removed should go forward enough to clear the gearbox? the shorter oil filter is indeed a good option, as is the box section, which I was already looking into.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 19, 2015 9:20:47 GMT
|
That's a lot of progress in a short period of time. What about a replacement chassis, I mean a complete departure from the scimitar base? My next project (note to ones self: years away) is going to be based on a lotus excel galvanised chassis, these chassis' as I'm sure you know are race breed and cheap as chips for what you get, very adaptable and easily available.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 19, 2015 13:30:45 GMT
|
Yeah been cracking on with it! The Scimitar chassis is not bad and easy to repair, so no reason to replace it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 23, 2015 9:15:53 GMT
|
A little update on progress………… Removed the power steering pump and a/c, and slid the engine forward so the gearbox clears the chassis, this still does not work out as the front of the engine is too wide to in the towers. It is also too high at the front. The best solution is to get it fitting the best at the front and to section the chassis to make the gearbox fit at the rear. Engine mount locations work out nice and easy.
|
|
|
|
mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,063
Club RR Member Number: 77
|
|
Sept 23, 2015 12:40:16 GMT
|
how well does it fit that far forward without the alternator holding it up? Just thinking it would be easier to mount that far forward, just notch the chassis by the gearbox casing and mount the alternator in front of the engine with the pulley facing the back
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 23, 2015 12:52:23 GMT
|
how well does it fit that far forward without the alternator holding it up? Just thinking it would be easier to mount that far forward, just notch the chassis by the gearbox casing and mount the alternator in front of the engine with the pulley facing the back not sure yet as I need to fit the cross brace, but no real problem if I also have to notch out the tower to make room for the alternator? I need the front of the engine clear for the exhaust as its coming forward like on TVR's.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 23, 2015 12:54:27 GMT
|
got the chassis up on blocks now so I can get the engine crane in at any angle. I hope to have a few hours free tomorrow to get the engine fitted better.
|
|
|
|
smeden
Part of things
"Full throttle until you see God,then shift to second"
Posts: 356
|
|
Sept 23, 2015 17:13:15 GMT
|
This is great! :-)
|
|
Jaguar xj6 S1 swb manual VW Bay Camper Audi A3 1998 1.8 VW Beach Buggy (sold) Ford Mondeo mrk I RS Celebration (written off) Ford Escort Mrk II RS 2000 (rust in peace)
|
|
|
|
Sept 23, 2015 18:32:27 GMT
|
Excellent sounding project.
Motor looks like it will be happy in there. re locate the alternator to save chopping the towers and have a remote oil filter and jobs a gooden. Looking forward to seeing the exhaust setup.
Upside down back to front headers or complete custom setup?
How about a manual box conversion too to gain even more space? Off the shelf adaptor plates for those motors to BMW E39 6 speed boxes...
Keep at it chap!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 23, 2015 20:55:59 GMT
|
Whilst it's been done by many, to simply fob off the tower brace, I'd HIGHLY recommend keeping it in one way or another. Another suggestion for making it fit - remove the alternator, and cut out the tube joining the base of the two towers until it fits snugly in place. At which point, create a larger brace bar, which bolts in multiple places across the front of the towers. As others have already mentioned, you could try to fit an alternator in-line with the engine the opposite direction (an alternator off a Honda will have cooling fins that spin the correct way) but you'd still have no power steering pump. Another potential solution, could be to run a jackshaft off the front, via a rubber driveshaft coupling. Then run the alternator, power steering, and anything else you'd fancy... like a supercharger... in the space above the flat tray Certainly a bit OTT, but will drop the engine as low as you like, keep the width to a minimum, and mainly, you won't need to try to "thin out" the already very spindly chassis, like this monstrosity:
|
|
You're like a crazy backyard genius!
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 24, 2015 8:49:23 GMT
|
Wow, that's not good. ^^
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 24, 2015 17:45:06 GMT
|
Some more progress today, I removed the alternator and moved the engine forward and lowered to correct height. The cross brace also fits! The sump is very close to the front beam but could just clear if I massaged the beam a little with a hammer and dented it slightly. I could notch the beam but may get away with it just with some little fettling. Gearbox just slips in between the chassis rails. Hard to see with the pictures but it just fits, but does touch. I could notch it a little to allow for more clearance or could also get away with it with some fettling with a hammer.
|
|
|
|
Ian
Part of things
Posts: 977
|
|
Sept 24, 2015 17:57:43 GMT
|
That does fit rather well now, I think the word is snug.
Love the idea of this, always liked these there used to be a dealer on the way into Chester where we'd regularly see them. GTC was the one I always liked
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 24, 2015 21:14:34 GMT
|
|
|
You're like a crazy backyard genius!
|
|
|
|
Sept 25, 2015 0:23:10 GMT
|
I love it how you just crack on with things Might just be me but with how tight that fit is would it not cause problems with the natural movement when the engine is running? Just a thought which may be silly but would be a shame to get all down that line and find it starts rubbing in places then.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 25, 2015 9:18:26 GMT
|
That is snug as a bug! How about making a motor plate to mount it rather than usual engine mounts to reduce movement?
The car will move around a bit more #BecauseRaceCar but that's all part of the fun!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 25, 2015 9:22:11 GMT
|
Tight! But these builds tend to hinge on the tightest of margins, there's no instruction manual and you build as you go in the best way you can. The challenge is exactly that, discovering problems along the way and finding a way to resolve them. From what I can see your progress is fast and looking like you are already finding a way to shoehorn the lump in but as mentioned above try to give a fraction more clearance than you may at first seem to need, a few millimeters extra will make the difference. But also add strength rather than take away from the chassis, I tend to try and make things fit first and only as a last resort notch where I have too and if I notch, I then strengthen (sometimes over the top) to maintain integrity, as I know you will.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 25, 2015 15:53:40 GMT
|
View from under the beam/sump it just clears but will need a tad more room. After cleaning some crud of the chassis gained some more room! Must have had at least 5mm of dirt each side of the chassis. Both sides clear but may have to still notch it a touch. Flipping the exhaust manifolds left to right enables you to fit them facing forward. Now they are facing the way I want shouldn’t be too hard to run the exhaust as planed. Forward up and out the bonnet!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 25, 2015 16:13:18 GMT
|
Flipping the bottom mounts lowers the car 3 inches, so just had to raise the top mount 3 inches to match. That’s a nice easy 3 inch drop for free! Still plenty of work to do, may also have to raise the rack and anti-roll bar mounts. The damper top mounts also have to be raised, but all looks straight forward to do. Interesting view inside the towers after the top mount was cut off. I plan to fit the top damper mount on some box section and slide it inside the tower this will be bolted and welded. Most of the jobs kind of get worked out on the fly as they unfold and find solutions when you see want you have to work with…..
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 25, 2015 16:22:52 GMT
|
I love it how you just crack on with things Might just be me but with how tight that fit is would it not cause problems with the natural movement when the engine is running? Just a thought which may be silly but would be a shame to get all down that line and find it starts rubbing in places then. Thanks yes its all still work in progress, nothing is finalised yet still just mocking it up and seeing what fits and what needs attention
|
|
|
|
|