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Sept 8, 2015 17:35:04 GMT
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Result Lexus gone to scrap yard, and sold the scimitar engine and box on greedbay. The scimitar is a pain in the neck to work on! all the bolts are rusty, and most of the nuts spin when you try and undo the bolts and spanners wont fit due to no access or the nuts/bolts being so rusted they are out of shape! Working on cars is like child birth you forget the pain until the moment it happens! What? No progress pics? How rude, lol |
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You're like a crazy backyard genius! |
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Sept 8, 2015 18:12:12 GMT
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And you thought a Lotus was hard to work on?!
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find this thread confusing, its 4 pages of everyone elses scim  AHAHAHAH |
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Sept 9, 2015 13:48:12 GMT
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find this thread confusing, its 4 pages of everyone elses scim AHAHAHAH Well back on topic, more pics and an upate from me! From the rear the auto boxes look a similar match in size, which looks promising.  From the front the V8 can be seen as being a fair bit wider and taller, and obviously longer.   |
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Last Edit: Sept 9, 2015 13:48:37 GMT by espritv8
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Sept 9, 2015 13:52:18 GMT
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And you thought a Lotus was hard to work on?! Yeah I think any thing from the 70`s and 80`s which has had no love in years is going to be hard to work on? Most of it is just down to really rusted bolts. |
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Sept 10, 2015 11:24:38 GMT
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 God I hate wasting time on rusted bolts! Job that should take a few minutes end up taking hours! 5 bolts I had to drill out to remove the doors, and killed some good drill bits! Doors off and now time to surgically finesse the removal of the font body with the angle grinder…….. |
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Sept 10, 2015 14:38:04 GMT
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After some cutting, and more cutting, and more cutting, finally have the front off! Great to work on now with so much space.   Nice access to the hinge plate! And air con to the foot well! I will weld some box section to this and fix it to the outrigger; this whole area will need work and fibre glassing. I plan to leave an inspection hole for ease of future repairs work on the hinges if needed.  |
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Sept 10, 2015 15:38:48 GMT
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That's progressing along nicely! It's going to be great  |
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Sept 10, 2015 19:58:17 GMT
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If you want to give the doors a proper fix, you need to either grow a second and third wrist on your arm - or it needs to be deskinned I'm afraid. Not much holds the outer skin on however, and as they're just glued together it splits quite nicely once you get it going. Some pics for your reference if you haven't seen any already:    In an ideal world, some stainless plates, with stainless bolts welded on, would be a nice solution for a long lasting rust-free door. Are you going to strip+paint the hinge steelwork? Also, what's your plans for the footwell blowers now? As I doubt it'll really be too practical with the flip front now. Seal up and relocate? Or refit with slight modifications? Gotta love a Scim build with something this interesting going on |
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You're like a crazy backyard genius!
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Sept 10, 2015 22:48:29 GMT
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Thanks guys, that is a shame the doors are impossible to work on, I may also split the skins? the hinge frame area will most likely be closed in again and sealed but will have an inspection cover that can be removed so I can still get to the panel if needed? as for the front that will be either flip or quick release? and still going to keep the bonnet separate. Priority at the moment is to get the car broken down enough so its easy to work on and to free the chassis. The wife has allowed me to build the chassis up on the rear garden patio so pushing hard to get it stripped as I am motivated to get the engine in and work on the suspension. The current location on no-mans land (dirt/grass and dog curse word!) is no good for future work.
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Last Edit: Sept 11, 2015 7:27:28 GMT by espritv8
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Sept 14, 2015 9:13:44 GMT
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spent most of yesterday attempting to free the body, got all the front suspension off, but the body is not playing ball! nearly all the bolts had to be drilled or cut of with the grinder! even the seat belt mounts! what a mare!
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Sept 15, 2015 6:53:16 GMT
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how has the rollover bar fared? If you're lucky, it's rusted itself to death, and has just fallen off, lol
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You're like a crazy backyard genius!
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Sept 15, 2015 14:26:35 GMT
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how has the rollover bar fared? If you're lucky, it's rusted itself to death, and has just fallen off, lol still intact had to cut the bolts off, the body is kinda free but still refusing to come off! may have missed a few bolts! some of them had been fibre glassed over and also seam to have extra fitted maybe by a previous owner? I have cracked the floor in a few places trying to free it with levering with crowbars. The chassis is also looking worse than I thought have seen some areas that have rusted away. Worse case scenario if its shot and not worth repairing will just use it for a jig to trial fit the engine and suspension mods and just get another to do the proper build. |
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Sept 15, 2015 20:43:55 GMT
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most Scimitar chassis' suffer, as the bodywork will never reflect the condition of the (virtually untreated) chassis. If you've got the space, time, and inclination - I'd personally just repair+improve the chassis. It's only 2mm mild steel, so can be vastly strengthened, and rot-prone mud traps built into the frame can be removed/plated over. And why mock up on one chassis, to only have to do the work on another chassis anyway? Build it once, and make it how you WANT it to look With the body, if it's damaged in vital areas, you may be best off sourcing another body entirely. Mine had "repairs" to cracks, and they didn't bond at all. Might as well have repaired it with blu-tac, lol Also, you're not limited to just a scimitar body..... |
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You're like a crazy backyard genius!
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Sept 15, 2015 21:35:47 GMT
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Body still not off but lifted at front, first look at the doom a head with rusty outrigger.  Peek at the rear bumper cross member, more work, good job it never had a towbar!  Driver front foot well now has a hole after levering with a crowbar, looks like a bodge repair job done in the past and not very strong, even glassed over the body mounting bolts. Probably done due to jacking the car on the foot well or outrigger?  Body is free and near enough ready to lift off, going to lift the body up and off with my engine crane. The doors are off and all seats removed, I am also going to remove the glass. |
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Last Edit: Sept 15, 2015 22:54:37 GMT by espritv8
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Sept 17, 2015 16:36:36 GMT
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Body off! Engine crane worked well, apologies for poor quality pic, chassis was a lot of hassle to free off, and nearly every bolt had to be cut off. I even had to cut the rear valence away to allow it to lift off, tried lifting from front and sliding rearwards but just couldn’t get it off.  |
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Sept 17, 2015 21:29:46 GMT
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That's been a right mare of a job has that.
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Sept 18, 2015 14:34:38 GMT
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Finally got the chassis free and into the garden!  Rusty in the usual places but repairable   Is this rotted out section at the rear factory fitted? I don’t see this section in my manual?  Odd section repaired in the past   |
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Sept 18, 2015 14:58:35 GMT
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Engine trial fitted to see if it fits? no surprise it doesn’t……  Oil filter hits the chassis I know you can buy remote oil filters, but I may just notch the chassis to make clearance.  Gearbox also clashes with the chassis   Would have been nice if the gearbox fitted, but hey ho just a bit more work. For the gearbox will just have to section or move out that part of the chassis and make it wider. |
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Last Edit: Sept 18, 2015 15:00:21 GMT by espritv8
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Sept 18, 2015 20:41:36 GMT
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Rather than try to replicate the C-section 2mm steel on the outriggers, definitely worth considering replacing with similar sized box-section. Will be vastly stronger, not too much extra weight, and if capped off, removes a large mud-trap (fill with waxoyl or similar though)
And again, rather than try to remake the whole front section of the chassis, just to gain an inch or two of space of length for the gearbox... why not cut the chassis clean off, just behind the front outriggers. You could then weld in extensions to allow the engine to fit nicely. Only worth thinking about if you'd be happy with the bodywork required to suit a longer chassis however.
As for the oil filter - you could just fit a shorter item. Will save a lot of work, and potentially cost around a fiver too. Nice and cheap.
What thoughts have you got on the engine mounts? I've got a decent e-book that explains how to correctly position mounts, and other general information on the subject if you'd fancy a read.
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You're like a crazy backyard genius!
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