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Mar 26, 2017 22:38:49 GMT
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Exhaust is pretty much done! Hanging by the proper rubber isolators and I can run my hand along the entire length clearance-wise. So I am happy with that. Still need to clamp on to the back of the mufflers, but that will wait until I sort the fuel tank and its mounting.  Reasonably well tucked up so as to not hit evey speed-bump I encounter. The car wont be lowered to death anyways, so this should be fine.  Shifted the shifter from the RH side to the LH side. This is so that I can run a simple rod-end shift linkage rather than a cable.  The oil cooler occupies a non traditional spot under the oil-pan. Makes the plumbing bit easier and avoids congestion in the nose of the vehicle.  Next up will be the fuel tank (cant wait to see what I come up with for that?) and fuel lines. Still a lot of work ahead, but it is converging at least. 85 days to go. |
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Last Edit: Mar 26, 2017 22:59:47 GMT by bjornagn
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Mar 28, 2017 18:14:56 GMT
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Since the exhaust is pretty much wrapped up, figured I should do something about the intake side of the equation: You know, the pipeline that pours money into the engine? Speaking of money, these two items are now headed to my shop. Combined with a clever bit of plumbing that I have yet to think of, I should be able to deliver some liquid BTUs to the engine.   |
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Mar 28, 2017 18:47:33 GMT
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I'll be interested to see your results with the Fitech.
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Mar 28, 2017 18:49:39 GMT
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I'll be interested to see your results with the Fitech. Not nearly as interested as I will be! Initial results are not too far away, but actual on-road report wont be until next spring when the car is painted. I was going to drive it as a rat rod or graffiti car this summer and shake the mechanical bugs out, but the thought of taking the windows out to paint next winter means I will delay. |
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Last Edit: Mar 28, 2017 18:53:28 GMT by bjornagn
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Mar 29, 2017 17:19:59 GMT
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I think I have solved the conundrum with the lower steering column needing to be 7 inches longer. Company by the name of Woodward Precision Steering Components, makes adapter U-joints for crazy people like us. www.woodwardsteering.com/catalog2017.htmlYou can get the U-joint with a specified spline on one end and another specified spline of interface on the other side. Just so happens that they make one that will slide on to the Miata rack input spline and accept their standard splined shaft on the other. (or a 3/4" double D shaft a-la-Ford) So the plan is to junk the two stock Miata U-joints (circled)  and replace with two of the Woodward units with Miata splines on one side and the Woodward standard spline in the middle to replace my "Too short" of an intermediate shaft. The shafts are bought to be cut to size and you have to arrange to have the locking groove cut in the one end. An alternative to the splined shaft would be a Double D shaft as found on Ford steering columns.  |
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I really did not want to do this. I should have done it earlier. Kept telling myself that 1/8" of clearance between the tunnel and the gearbox and engine bolts would be fine. But could not convince myself, so out comes the death-wheel and we make holes in the firewall. This will give me enough clearance to remove the engine to gearbox bolts if I ever wanted to drop the gearbox separate from the engine. The Monster Miata V8 conversion instructions recommend a lare hammer to do this task, but I just cant bring myself to be happy with the looks of a bashed in firewall. ![]()  I will plug in the E-wheel and form up some nice curved patch panels to fill this in.  |
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samta22
Club Retro Rides Member
Stuck in once more...
Posts: 1,276 
Club RR Member Number: 32
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Fair play for doing it the right way (and one that will let you sleep at night ) I've got to do the same with my MG at some point to make room for a 3.9 - no way a hammer will suffice for that. |
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'37 Austin 7 '56 Austin A35 '58 Austin A35 '65 Triumph Herald 12/50 '69 MGB GT '74 MGB GT V8'73 TA22 Toyota Celica restoration'95 Mercedes SL320 '04 MGTF 135 'Cool Blue' (Mrs' Baby) '05 Land Rover Discovery 3 V8 '67 Abarth 595 (Mrs' runabout) '18 Disco V |
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Fair play for doing it the right way (and one that will let you sleep at night ) I've got to do the same with my MG at some point to make room for a 3.9 - no way a hammer will suffice for that. About that MGB project... I have it bookmarked but no recent post. Assume it is done and working flawlessly as daily transport?  |
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samta22
Club Retro Rides Member
Stuck in once more...
Posts: 1,276
Club RR Member Number: 32
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You are literally the funniest man on the internet... i.e. no. I really must update that thread, there has been progress but not much due to Toyota and A35 goings on. More soon, I promise. |
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'37 Austin 7 '56 Austin A35 '58 Austin A35 '65 Triumph Herald 12/50 '69 MGB GT '74 MGB GT V8'73 TA22 Toyota Celica restoration'95 Mercedes SL320 '04 MGTF 135 'Cool Blue' (Mrs' Baby) '05 Land Rover Discovery 3 V8 '67 Abarth 595 (Mrs' runabout) '18 Disco V |
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Well then, with 76 days left, better keep the pedal down and make sparks and smoke. Went out last night and managed to get two big jobs done. The big holes in the side of the tunnel are cilled in, and since the engine and gearbox position are finalized, the front K member and engine mounts could be final welded. I used the e-wheel to fab these panels with a concave surface. This opens up more room right behind the transmission bolt heads and should allow me to get at the bolts should I ever have to remove the gearbox while leaving the engine in-situ.  I will give that lot a quick buzz with the flap-wheel and a lick of primer and paint and call it done. Moving up front the K member is all welded up solid and the engine mount pedestals received some lateral support.   I see a painting party in the near future. Fuel tank arrives tomorrow, so by Sunday I will either be pretty sure how that is going to work out or I will be looking for a plan B Did I mention I only have 76 days left to get this running? |
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very cool...glad you chose the "non hammer" solution to the tunnel. fab works continues to inspire
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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Christmas came early today! I received the Fitech EFI kit. Certainly hope it lives up to what I saw when I opened the box:  Lots of pretty bits to play with:   Seems pretty comprehensive. But first, we need to provide fuel. To that end, this also came in the post:  The tank fits in the available space quite nicely considering it is for a 53 Chevy. The problem is that the nice filler neck needs to be on the bottom of the tank, not the top. So out came the cutting implements and this happened: Original filler location cut out and patched over:  Cut out filler tube relocated to the bottom of the tank. Convenient that there was a flat face to locate this to.  If the welds all prove to be leak free, I will be quite happy. Due to an observant assistant, I dodged a major bullet with the fuel tank design. The tank is sold as EFI ready and has a sump in the middle to control fuel slosh; basically a bowl located in the middle of the tank into which the in-tank fuel pump is located. The problem is that the only access to the sump was occupied by the pick-up tube for the conventional fuel outlet. Once the fuel level dropped under the level of the sump, there was no way for the remainder of the fuel in the tank to enter the sump. I would have torn my hair out trying to figure this one out. The red circle is where I managed to remove the conventional fuel pick-up tube. Fuel from the surrounding tube can now enter via this hole.  This week-ends task is to have the tank mounted. I have a plan... |
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I remember when restorations used to feel like they were difficult.. that was just re-doing what the factory already did. This Hot Rod curse word fights you every inch of the way! Got a fuel tank mounted. Still going to do some tinwork to clean up the looks , but pretty happy with the way it turned out.  If you look at the first picture, You get an idea of where the fuel and brake lines are going to run... The lines will run inside the frame-rail in order to protect them and keep them away from heat. The will enter here:  And exit into the engine compartment here: (sorry for the sideways pic, car is on it's side eh?)  And in the minor task arena, the front tunnel widening bits got painted. I know, not very exciting, but more more work to do properly than I like to admit, so going to crow about it! 3/4" more clearance than I had before. I am happy.   |
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Davey
Posted a lot
Resident Tyre Nerd.
Posts: 2,350
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Apr 10, 2017 15:22:50 GMT
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Great work, those EFI set ups seem to be getting more and more popular.
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K11 Micra x3 - Mk3 astra - Seat Marbella - Mk6 Escort estate - B5 Passat - Alfa 156 estate - E36 compact
Mk2 MR2 T-bar - E46 328i - Skoda Superb - Fiat seicento - 6n2 Polo - 6n polo 1.6 - Mk1 GS300
EU8 civic type S - MG ZT cdti - R56 MINI Cooper S - Audi A3 8p - Jaguar XF (X250) - FN2 Civic Type R - Mk2 2.0i Ford Focus - Mercedes W212 E250
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Nice work so far. Got to say though that exhaust cross over is a disaster. It's going to cause a major restriction. Crossover Design |
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Last Edit: Apr 13, 2017 3:49:34 GMT by wraith666
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Apr 13, 2017 11:51:49 GMT
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Nice work so far. Got to say though that exhaust cross over is a disaster. It's going to cause a major restriction. Crossover DesignThanks for the kind words on the build. I am curious as to the science behind your concerns with the cross-over design? You seem to think it is going to cause a restriction in the system but I am not sure why? That said, this thing is designed to be a lazy cruiser with an AOD and an E cam that will use the torque available below 3500 rpm to waft down the road. |
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Apr 13, 2017 12:03:24 GMT
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I too wondered about the crossover design. It 'ought' to be rotated 90 degrees but as it appears to have been possibly designed to run how you have it it could mean 3 things.
1, the exhaust people know what they are doing and it flows ok as it is.
2, the exhaust people just made it that way and it wont flow as well.
3, you installed it 90 degrees out
I'm erring on 3 but it wont be a disaster but it will hurt performance/economy. Personally I'd be looking at turning it 90 degrees if you can manage it?
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Apr 13, 2017 12:07:07 GMT
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Looking at it again it may be easier to dump the crossover you have & put straight pipes in its place but add a normal straight crossover pipe just in front of your first resonators (put the pipe in off the 2 bends).
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Apr 13, 2017 12:27:59 GMT
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I too wondered about the crossover design. It 'ought' to be rotated 90 degrees but as it appears to have been possibly designed to run how you have it it could mean 3 things. 1, the exhaust people know what they are doing and it flows ok as it is. 2, the exhaust people just made it that way and it wont flow as well. 3, you installed it 90 degrees out I'm erring on 3 but it wont be a disaster but it will hurt performance/economy. Personally I'd be looking at turning it 90 degrees if you can manage it? The exhaust crossover fabricator person (me) gave it some thought and decided that for packaging reasons it would work best this way. I actually have a pre-fabbed crossover section from flowmaster in the parts bin but left it there as this offered a better install fit. Doing a sight-line down the crossover, at no point did I see where I lost the volume of the two individual pipes to any significant degree. Granted, it does introduce an S curve and forces a full merging of the two exhaust streams. Fairly certain that any power loss would be in the higher RPM ranges and as such wont worry too much until the wife gets tired of pottering around in HER toy and demands a power increase. |
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Apr 13, 2017 12:40:53 GMT
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Fair enough - as long as the 'hole' is of sufficient size it wont hurt the volume but the 'U' shape will encourage more backpressure as the exhaust will want to push around the curve and back up the opposite side rather than go through your crossover hole. If you made the hole nice & big it's not a major issue - as I said it will hurt power/economy - but to what degree is unknown. It wont be a massive amount - maybe 1-2mpg at most? If she wants more power then twin turbo's should sort it - this will mean a new exhaust anyway |
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