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Interesting stuff going on.
Did you think about putting a rear anti-rollbar in? Maybe in combination with an LSD if you don't already have one.
Are you doing Castle Combe this year too?
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,880
Club RR Member Number: 39
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To add to the things you are thinking about - What happens to the leverage ratio being applied to the mass supporting coilover when the other end of the axle is in the air?
ETA
Until the 300lb spring goes coil bound, which will be quite a way as it's so close to the 350 rate, your wheel rate is currently about 75lb/inch ! (84lb - 56lb) - which I imagine is probably less than a stock Avenger Delux super wafty wheel rate.
It will be good to get the actual measurements so that the figures can be corrected but I think your issues are.
The compound springs giving a low 160lb rate Falling rate suspension due to the inclined angle of the coilover The high roll centre
Any one of the above is bad enough.
Get the springs vertical and correct the poundage to match with the front wheel rate. Fit a Panhard/Watts/Mumford to get the rear roll centre lower. (Will require parallel top arms)
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Last Edit: Feb 11, 2017 14:40:02 GMT by Darkspeed
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Feb 13, 2017 18:05:22 GMT
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the leverage ratio will be close to 1:1 as the bottom mount sits inside the wheel or am i missing something? you are missing that a solid axle is travelling vertically, but the spring is travelling diagonally (inboard at the top, outboard at the bottom) so the axle has more mechanical advantage, i.e if you have 200lb spring the actual vertical spring rate is a smaller fraction of that
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Last Edit: Feb 13, 2017 18:07:26 GMT by darrenh
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Feb 13, 2017 18:19:26 GMT
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All you need are accurate measurements - The rear wheelbase and the distance from the centre of the wheel to the lower shocker mount - As the lower mount is not in line with the hub face it cannot be 1:1 I suspect it's at least 200 mm from the hub face. I will also try and explain the roll centre and the suspension upper location relationship. If you take this to its extreme and have all three points in the same location, the roll pivot and the two suspension points all at the same location, you still have the same support to the car from the springs, but you have no roll restance. A plank supported at a single point. A slight imbalance and it will see saw but still be supported on the springs. If you lower the roll centre so the plank is pivoted below that spring location the roll resistance is improved. If you leave the centre at the same height but move the spring locations outboard, the roll resistance is improved. Hopefully you will see from that crude explanation that the roll centre and the upper locations are very important to the roll resistance and there is no direct relationship to the stiffness of the springs. With solid suspension and all pivots at the same location there is no suspension travel but no roll resistance, similarly if you have super soft springs or anything in between, you still have no roll resistance. Change the springs all you like in that scenario the roll resistance is the same zero Ok, The dampers are at exactly 30 degrees from the vertical. The bottom mount is inboard of the Hub face BUT the wheel centre line is also inboard of the hub face (to clear the arches with an 8" wheel/ 200 tyre) the difference between the 2 is approximately 100mm. So therefore i see why the ratio is not exactly 1:1. Ok, not sure i follow the explanation but i shall have a sketch and see what happens to my understanding.
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Feb 13, 2017 18:19:56 GMT
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Interesting stuff going on. Did you think about putting a rear anti-rollbar in? Maybe in combination with an LSD if you don't already have one. Are you doing Castle Combe this year too? I will do Castle Combe later this year hopefully
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Feb 13, 2017 18:36:10 GMT
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To add to the things you are thinking about - What happens to the leverage ratio being applied to the mass supporting coilover when the other end of the axle is in the air? ETA Until the 300lb spring goes coil bound, which will be quite a way as it's so close to the 350 rate, your wheel rate is currently about 75lb/inch ! (84lb - 56lb) - which I imagine is probably less than a stock Avenger Delux super wafty wheel rate. It will be good to get the actual measurements so that the figures can be corrected but I think your issues are. The compound springs giving a low 160lb rate Falling rate suspension due to the inclined angle of the coilover The high roll centre Any one of the above is bad enough. Get the springs vertical and correct the poundage to match with the front wheel rate. Fit a Panhard/Watts/Mumford to get the rear roll centre lower. (Will require parallel top arms) Ok, the first spring is i thought 2" and is near coil bound at normal ride height. But that doesn't seem correct with the spring rates i have in my notes as were supplied with the dampers. I need to measure their length and read the rate directly as its printed on them. Ah reading the rate of the photo it says 300 IMG_2237 by Nevtiger, on Flickr And at normal ride height minus my weight Falling rate spring - ok i understand but i just need to see the math to comprehend fully. High RCH - yep got that. I modelled the rear and front to see the relationships as i used to get a weird thing happening but i had a very steep slope to the front between the two RCH's since sorted with my new front set up and better controlled lateral at the front as well. Low rate - done to get traction and grip from a live axle. Ok, then we hit the snag. I am very disinclined to 'turret' the rear although not completely as the car is a genuine Tiger and that might detract from its value. Also i need to take account of the issue with suspension mods and staying in Road Production Modified and not straying into Sports Libre because of changes to the monique in between the wheelbase/relocated suspension pick up points etc. Watts and Mumford i have both investigated at a lowish level via both Staniforths book and Milican & Milican. I also modelled it but at the time saw no benefit in the extensive mods i would need to do. I certainly don't want to 4 link the rear end as that will take me out of class but maybe a 3 link set up could be added without major surgery to allow Mumford or Watts? If i were to try anything it would be vertical dampers first but that will require major surgery as the damper will go up throughout the chassis rail.
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Feb 13, 2017 18:39:49 GMT
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Just had a thought! The springs used to be here: Fully adjustable for height too...... I could only run a single rate spring in this scenario though.
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Last Edit: Feb 13, 2017 18:40:10 GMT by nevtiger
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Feb 13, 2017 18:41:12 GMT
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the leverage ratio will be close to 1:1 as the bottom mount sits inside the wheel or am i missing something? you are missing that a solid axle is travelling vertically, but the spring is travelling diagonally (inboard at the top, outboard at the bottom) so the axle has more mechanical advantage, i.e if you have 200lb spring the actual vertical spring rate is a smaller fraction of that Yes, i have worked it back out now.....
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Feb 13, 2017 18:43:53 GMT
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whats the angle of the damper/spring at full bump ?
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,586
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Feb 13, 2017 19:49:53 GMT
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Do you think having the coilovers behind the axle will affect how it moves as well ? The weight of the car is trying to twist the axle up at the front. With the springs back in their original position the weight of the car twists the axle down at the front, this compensates for the forces you get when accelerating.
I struggle with trying to work stuff out and resort to building lego models of things, sounds a bit daft but it's easy to see the effect of vertical and inclines springs. With the coilovers inclined you need to have rising rate springs to end up with linear rate.
As everything is still there I would try springs in the standard position again. Keep the shocks but just take the springs etc off and see if it makes a difference.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,880
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Feb 13, 2017 20:11:29 GMT
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What is the dimension centre of tyre to centre of tyre and the dimension between the coilovers on the axle.
Coilover is 30 degrees static and will therefore always go falling rate.
The complication of compound springs is just not worth the effort as it does not provide rising rate - design a rising rate suspension system if that is what you need.
There is still a long way to go on that lower spring before it goes coil bound - If you had the fully closed dimension you can calculate when the spring rate would jump to double rate.
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Last Edit: Feb 13, 2017 21:12:52 GMT by Darkspeed
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,880
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Feb 13, 2017 21:20:14 GMT
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Do you think having the coilovers behind the axle will affect how it moves as well ? The weight of the car is trying to twist the axle up at the front. With the springs back in their original position the weight of the car twists the axle down at the front, this compensates for the forces you get when accelerating. Makes no difference front or rear, the axle moves vertically restrained in its movement by the upper and lower trailing links. The triangulation of the upper links providing the lateral location and also establishing the high roll centre. As everything is still there I would try springs in the standard position again. Keep the shocks but just take the springs etc off and see if it makes a difference. That would be a step in the right direction, as it will remove the falling rate and the compound springing in one go. What is the leverage ratio on the lower trailing arm / spring and what was the rate previously used - Looks like the original had an element of rising rate built into the geometry.
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Last Edit: Feb 13, 2017 21:22:28 GMT by Darkspeed
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Ok,
I shall get the track dimensions when the latest outbreak of work has subsided and i can get to the garage.
Other info -
The axle links at the rear onto the axle are rose jointed but use poly bushes at the body end.
The springs used in the OEM position were 180 or 200 rate depending, which is the same rate as an original 'hi performance' road spring but of course my car is lighter than a standard road car. I was at that time having to use road tyres (Yoko 048 soft) so grip generated was much lower and thus body roll.
The rear leverage ratio for standard position springs is 1.24. I'm not sure about rising rate though.
I will have a poke about and look at the various spring rates i have. I used 2.25 springs on the front for a long time before changing them to the back as well so i have a good selection that might include what is needed for the back?
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whats the angle of the damper/spring at full bump ? Until the conversation about my rear end got into full flow i had not fully realised the angles involved (or ignored them) and that as the car squats the angle increases and then that is compounded by the lean taken on by the body which worsens the angle even more.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,880
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Feb 14, 2017 11:45:26 GMT
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Ok, I shall get the track dimensions when the latest outbreak of work has subsided and i can get to the garage. The springs used in the OEM position were 180 or 200 rate depending, The rear leverage ratio for standard position springs is 1.24. I'm not sure about rising rate though. The 180 at that leverage = wheel rate of 117 The 200 at that leverage = wheel rate of 130 For the 350 fronts the spring rate really needs to be at around 400. However you are using a very high front rate With 250lb fronts - the rears at 280lb would be a good start. Rising rate If the rear trailing arm was horizontal and the spring was angled back toward the chassis pivot(which it seemed to be as standard) at 15 degrees the spring rate seen by the wheel would be a factor of the leverage ratio and that lean angle. For 15 degrees the spring rate is reduced by around 7% - When the spring is compressed that lean angle is reduced so that when at 90 degrees to the training arm (0 degree lean) the rate is increased by that lost 7%. The trailing arm moves in an arc from the chassi pivot. The spring upper and lower locations are fixed. For good design you would ensure that at maximum travel in bump the spring angle is is always approaching that 90 degree's to the trailing arm angle. For future development my focus would be on getting that rear roll centre under control - lower and fixed - with those datums you can move forward Your axle is already 4 linked - all you need to do is remove the top triangulation, which give you the high and dynamic roll centre, by making the arms parallel to the lower arms, and then add some structure to mount a Watts etc. I note on the rally cars they braced the shocker towers - I expect yours would have cracked eventually with the full loads into that area. What I cant find on the rally cars is what the did with the axle location - or just lived with the high roll centre I am not convinced by this a solution - but it does indicate the problem to be sorted for for the upper arm location. Also remember that you will have falling rate on the damping to deal with due to the angle of inclination of those.
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Feb 14, 2017 12:36:19 GMT
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Last first!
That is - i think - Alans recent car. A very tail happy rally car. The Panhard rod - in my view- is not really doing anything as its fighting the top links. The top links allow no lateral movement but the Panhard will introduce a small amount when travelling through its arc.
Remember a rally car will carry at least two spare wheels and much more fuel, they also bounce around more. This causes an issue With an Avenger, the rear chassis over the axle splits due to the high loads carried behind the axle line and thus needs double skinning but i have never seen the damper mounts become stressed.
Ok i understand the thinking with the rear spring and rising rate now. My 2.25" mount had the spring vertical and that was to allow the mounting to be held in place rather than any desire to have the springs vertical. I could make new mounts the that put the spring at the same angle as OEM.
You have asked a very interesting question about what the Works team did with the rear suspension.
Its a long story but they ended up leaving it as standard even on the World Rally Championship winning Sunbeam Lotus of '81. The team went through a development project with the Avenger using different arrangements when they fitted the 4HA from an Aston Martin (O'Dell was ex AM) including the same set up as used on the back of the Escort but with a Watts Linkage (Escort was Panhard Rod at the time). The archives don't talk about link length but they gave up on it as a suitable rally car suspension....... I have a feeling Tony Pond tried a car with a 4 linked rear end and did not like compared to standard but for what reason i do not know.
It is also of note that the Avenger Estate uses parallel top links which are quite short and a panhard rod, standard bottom arms are used.
When the car ran on the 048's i used 250 rate at the front and used to work well with those tyres once they were up to temp. The 250's seemed way to soft for the 'slicks' though, albeit without the heavy ARB set up i have now.
300F/400R would be similar to a couple of race Avengers that used to be around. Not sure of the current Sunbeam race cars though?
It must be remembered that the front suspension can give a low RCH to but is much less controlled and the lower it gets the less controlled it is laterally although this can be mitigated by less wheel travel i suppose. It isn't a rally car after all :-)
I think engineering a Mumford or WOBlink would require a fair bit of work BUT could go in without to much butchery which is a bonus.
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Last Edit: Feb 14, 2017 13:40:14 GMT by nevtiger
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,586
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Feb 14, 2017 14:06:47 GMT
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I have just been looking to see whats on the internet and found a few pictures of Nick Davies car, cars actually as I didn't know the first shell got a bit squashed. Looking at the crumpled remains I can just about see the strut tops I made many years ago. www.meeks.f9.co.uk/sunbeam-racing/cars/nick.htmlThere is a bit more info on the rest of the site in the cars section about spring rates etc. www.meeks.f9.co.uk/sunbeam-racing/
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Last Edit: Feb 14, 2017 14:10:54 GMT by steveg
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Feb 14, 2017 14:10:06 GMT
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I have just been looking to see whats on the internet and found a few pictures of Nick Davies car, cars actually as I didn't know the first shell got a bit squashed. Looking at the crumpled remains I can just about see the strut tops I made many years ago. www.meeks.f9.co.uk/sunbeam-racing/cars/nick.htmlAnd the strut tops seem to have survived!
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,586
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Feb 14, 2017 14:13:05 GMT
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All I could find lying about were some big lumps of brass, they weighed a ton but one handy feature was that the bottom of a coke bottle (black plastic) would cover the whole thing up for scrutineering purposes !
Looking at the specs of the springs on their cars it looks like they ran stiffer springs on the back than the front.
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Last Edit: Feb 14, 2017 14:16:17 GMT by steveg
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Feb 14, 2017 17:48:44 GMT
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The damper bottoms are 90mm inboard of the tyre centre line and the track is 53" although hub face to hub face is 55"
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