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Jul 30, 2015 15:04:16 GMT
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Axle ran well although at one point i thought i had made a bit of a mess of it as when flat out there was a howling noise coming from the car loud enough to be heard half way round the circuit.
That turned out to be the tarmac which was freshly laid and it depended on tyres as to the noise made. Weird.
Car went and felt really well on the new spring rates although one of the ARB up links came loose and fell over and rubbed the tyre to ruin....... luckily on the last run and i ignored the rubber smell until the run was over and that it went away. Until we changed wheels to get it on the trailer and noticed the massive grove on the inside of the tyre...
And some how over the winter the rear brake cylinders have seized, which seems to indicate I don't need/use/care about rear brakes??
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Jul 30, 2015 15:06:49 GMT
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Jul 30, 2015 15:07:12 GMT
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Its to combat surge. With the new tyres it was ever so slightly beginning to get to the possibility that it might have a problem. So to keep the warranty that's what's been done.
To be honest I think its not strictly necessary but it is a cheaper option than the Accusump.
I had never seen a problem on any event before but the car is generating quite high lateral G now for reasonable periods of time when I get it right.
I don't think you will even have a problem when trialling............ unless you invert that is.
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Jul 30, 2015 15:09:29 GMT
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A Video of the last timed run at Castle Coombe last weekend:  Its got a bit of vibration and I use an anti vibration mount, I think its got worse with the new spring rates.... |
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Jul 30, 2015 15:10:24 GMT
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Some times the Avenger Tiger gets hungry. When the Tiger gets hungry it must eat.  |
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Jul 30, 2015 15:19:42 GMT
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So it has come to pass that the rear dampers need changing so a set of photos to show what happened during the attachment of the Coil Over mounting: Top mounts to fit in Avenger top mount. These are modified E36 BMW:  And when they are fitted to the car it looks like this, the top hole is opened up a bit:  The chassis needed a bit of notching to ensure enough clearance:  New modified spacers for the bottom mount rose joint:  And fitted:  The mount on the axle prior to welding:  And during final assembly:  |
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Jul 30, 2015 15:20:26 GMT
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They are bespoke units built for the car with 3 way adjustment, Rebound, Fast Bump and Slow Bump. Dual springs to give a 'rising rate' spring that - in theory - means the axle can operate with a soft spring over minor undulations to allow traction and then goes stiff when cornering hard.
That's the theory.
They 'felt' ok last weekend so it must be going in the right direction.
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So back to the story now that some events have got out of the way..... I was trying fit some new brakes today but its not going well so thought i would take these:   |
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The rear Manual brakes i was trying to fit were a bit of a nightmare as they did not come with the adjusters but through the power of Internet and Google and intuition i reckoned that MGB B/Viva/Austin Metro/Austin 110o might the same ones.
And the answer is yes.
Avengers only had manual adjusting rear brakes for a short time in the early/mid 1970's when the people making the discs brakes went on strike so the cars were fitted with Drums all round from Girling rather than Lockheed - well i think its that way round.............
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So the last event was at Goodwood for the Regis Sprint back in April but i have had problems uploading video but at last i have sorted it. This is the best lap of the day and best so far at Goodwood for the car:  This is with the old engine but with the new suspension :-) |
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After that event i proved to my self that i did not have enough negative camber on the front. So after trying to get more i realised i had run out of thread on the rose jointed bottom arms. This is because i still use the original TCA hole position on the crossmember, this means the bump steer is minimised and can be dialled out. Moving the TCA hole outwards as per normal practice makes the car worse to drive even with the improved bight of the additional negative camber. So i decided to make my own multi adjustable set up including the brake reaction rod. I had been using the Works front mounting blocks with the huge spherical joint but i wanted it to be adjustable on the car with taking it all to bits so i broke out the welder, some tube and a bunch of paint: First drill the steering arms to take a bolt and remove taper - HARD JOB - then add spacers:  IMG_0218 by Nevtiger, on Flickr Tack up some tube and inserts, put joints in and see if it fits together:  IMG_0217 by Nevtiger, on Flickr Check that it all fits the car, this took a while to be honest as to get the correct range of adjustment on the BRB took 3 iterations:  IMG_0216 by Nevtiger, on Flickr Well it seems to so lets weld it all up and paint it:  IMG_0221 by Nevtiger, on Flickr  IMG_0220 by Nevtiger, Just to fit it all now! |
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Car and me was out again this weekend at Hullavington for the Wessex Sprint. Run on an old airfield it had more of a stage feel to it than the normal circuit events and was all the better for it!!!
Steve and Jon kept fiddling with tyre pressures and put them up to 24psi and it did feel better. Although even with 2.5 degrees negative on the front it still only uses the outer half of the tyre when getting on it. Next event is the Car Nival at Abingdon in two weeks which is another airfield event. I also noticed that the rear tyres are only using the outer half so maybe the back axle could do with some negative as well!!!
Video when i can get it small enough
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Video of final lap and quickest of the day:  |
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Seems to go well ;-)`
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1964 Saab 96 two Stroke
1971 Hillman Avenger 1500 GL (Tuned 1600 fitted)
1976 Saab 99 2dr EMS (Project of very slow progress)
1978 Saab 99 2dr EMS (Awaiting reshell)
1981 Saab 99 2dr Turbo (Awaiting reshell)
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My front dampers are Bilstien with 280/150 rate.
Just done some maths and some calls and finally a call and had them verified by someone who works for a damper manufacturer and the result for my car is:
213/106 - which is somewhat softer than the current set up? This equates to a 200/90 or 210/100 Bilstien set up. And there was me thinking the suspension was finally settled for next few years........
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Abingdon CAR-nival 2015 Sometimes sleep is the only answer!!  IMG_9936 by Nevtiger, on Flickr A GM 1600 powered Sunbeam behind me:  IMG_9934 by Nevtiger, on Flickr Getting photobombed by a 6R4 is ok i reckon:  IMG_9933 by Nevtiger, on Flickr You might spot a small mistake on the Bently course on this attempt..........  IMG_0238 by Nevtiger, on Flickr No such mistakes on the Abingdon course though:  IMG_0244 by Nevtiger, on Flickr |
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Aug 12, 2015 13:59:39 GMT
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Aug 12, 2015 14:04:15 GMT
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After Abingdon i was not completely happy with the new BRB mounting arrangement as it did not allow easy adjustment. Therefore, i decided to modify the arrangement. The rose joints are 1/2" bore so i thought a simple 1/2" hole in the correct place and a little local reinforcement plus modifying the lower brace would be quick and easy. It was not quick. I found a hole in the chassis behind the outer BRB mount. So i had to make up a new piece for the chassis rail bottom and side. The rail is getting thin here about so was quite a challenge to weld up.  Once the chassis rail was back together i could then line up the mount using a front Alloy block to allow it to be in free air!  elded in and a bit of local extra strength where the new mount hole is drilled:  The other side was easy as i completely rebuilt this lot a few years ago when i fitted the double chassis strengthening kit.  Just need to modify the lower brace and then fit it all together again. Whilst it was all apart i decided to have the steering arms re-done. I had drilled the bore parallel myself (and Dad) but i was not really happy with the roundness also the spacers i had made were not the tightest fit. This all resulted in the bolts holding the bottom arm to the steering arm coming loose on the last Sprint. Not a big drama as me and Jon soon nipped them up but it was obvious that the 'bushes' i had made were not good enough. So steering arms off and taken round to a local engineering shop where they have machines much more capable than the old black smiths steam converted to electric drill that we used!!! I also got them to make a 'tight bush'.  And with it pressed in:  Right now all i need to do is put everything back on the car, then set it all up again......... Oh and change the engine - at last - yes, the engine of many rebuilds is back and ready to be inserted. |
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Aug 12, 2015 14:05:56 GMT
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It seems i can generate some grip now...................   |
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