1985 Hyundai Stellar V8 GSL - now with working AC!

Is it possible to swap the whole rear end? Might even be easier.

If you can’t change the diff ratio easily, maybe you can find an alternative 5th gear ratio for the gearbox.

Great car, by the way.

Far more likely that you have 4.11:1 than anything other than a 1:1 in 4th.

The Capri Axle is narrower than the Cortina 3/4/5 and the MK1 Capri is narrower than the Mk2/3 - Capri 1 could also be the same as the MK2 Cortina - not sure.

The 3.08 would be a good option as 5th would become a genuine overdrive type gear so relaxed cruising. Very similar in overall gearing and performance to a 2.8i Capri I would imagine.


How accurate is the speedo - In most cars I have messed about with re axle ratio's the speed v engine rpm reads the same as the old axle taken out as it was matched to that turns per mile.

Cheers

Andrew

If its in the budget it may be worth getting hold of another Cortina casing and fully rebuilding that with the 3.08 to swap in as a complete assembly. The car is only off the road for half a day if done that way.

I've made a bit of progress with the AC installation, starting with the radiator switch wiring as I want the second set of contacts to operate the twin condenser fans if the coolant temperature continues to rise. The existing fan switch (closes at 90 deg C) is to be replaced with a twin contact switch from a BX, as I recall they close one contact at 87 deg C, and the other at 92 deg C. As the engine gets hot, first the rear fan will suck air through, then if the temperature continues to rise, both front fans will switch in. Handily the BX switch has the same M22 x 1.5 thread as the Audi radiator.



The AC will operate the twin fans in front of the condenser and radiator via a trinary switch on the receiver/drier. (This both stops the compressor functioning at dangerously high and low pressures, but also operates the fans only when the pressure in the AC system demands it). The rear radiator fan will only be operated by coolant temperature.

This is the receiver drier, with the trinary pressure switch on top:



The pressure switch connectors were a pain to source, but doing so lets me keep a standard off the shelf part, and looks neat :-)



Then ran the wiring to a new relay for the additional twin fans. I still need to wrap the loom, which I'll do once I know everything is working correctly.



I cut some universal compressor mounting plates up to fit in the space a PAS pump would normally sit. To get a good belt line I needed to space out the compressor 6mm from the front of the timing cover, so I simply overlapped the 6mm plate, and temporarily clamped in place with a small G clamp while I checked alignment:



All seemed good so I tacked them together and mocked up the spacing of the compressor lugs with a couple of bolts. I could then see where in free space the rear mount was sitting. There are two bosses on the block that I will use, by welding a plate at right angles to the rear mount. Access is a little tricky, but all I need to do is drill the plate, bolt to the block and tack it to the mount. The proper welding can be done on the bench, assuming it doesn't distort too much on cooling. I've had to grind the head slightly to clear the compressor mount bolt head, hence all the swarf!



I made up a plate with holes to match the bosses on the block...



...so once that was bolted on I tacked it to the rear mount. Then I could unbolt both, weld up properly, and paint. My welding was a bit splattery and I don't know why, but got good penetration so the joins are strong at least.



Happily there was no noticeable distortion, so the two mounts were still in the right place to fix the compressor between. A 925mm belt was the right length to drive it, so this was the end result.



I'm actually really pleased with this; it's turned out to fit perfectly, and I'm *just* able to get the full range of adjustment without fouling anything. Time to see it in action!



This is the view from inside the cabin, and although the light illuminates the pressure switch is doing its job and stopping the compressor clutch from engaging.

Cheers, did you catch me driving through?

I've got an update to add regarding the AC and diff swap, but picture loading is a PITA.

I've spent a bit of time installing more of the AC system, starting with the condenser. I made up a couple of brackets that it could sit on.


Then added connectors for the condenser fans...



...before mounting it in position.



For Christmas I got a proper crimp too to allow me to make up the hoses - both satisfying and avoids me having to rely on someone else to make them from my measurements.



Hoses run from the compressor...



...to the condenser...



...then receiver/drier...



...before going to bulkhead fittings, and back to the compressor.



Once the hoses were done I had to make up some different horn brackets, and job done!



And with the grille back on, it's all neatly hidden :-)



So, onto the axle. I took it to a guy who'd been recommended to me from several sources, and he must have been in his 70s but still keeping busy in his workshop. (Four lathes, a couple of milling machines and a spotless workbench made me rather jealous!) He reckoned my longstanding oil leak was down to a pattern wheel bearing, which I'd replaced after the previous one also leaked. I'd managed to get decent quality diff bearings:



But all the UK suppliers drew a blank with quality wheel bearings; one telling me that the only one he could get hold of currently, he wouldn't want to sell. Fortunately the chap doing the diff had a massive stash of genuine Ford spares, and only charged me £28 for it which I thought was very reasonable! Reassembled it moved smoothly, with very little backlash.



So, onto fitting it. Before I did I thought I'd measure the rear springs, as I was sure it used to sit lower at the back, comparing theses old and new photos:





Hmmm, something isn't quite right here!



TBH I'm surprised I didn't twig sooner, but just put the handing down to being spoilt by the improvements in modern cars, rather than any fundamental fault. I'd bought those springs from a reputable supplier back in the early 2000s, so thought they'd be OK! I worked out that a set of Cortina Mk5 springs would be 1" lower than standard, but non-progressively wound so should sag less and give me the right height, so bought a set from Rally Design this time.



Then the simple job of putting the axle back in, connecting everything back up and bleeding/refilling as needed.



Back on its wheels it looks spot on to me!



And more importantly, drives a lot better too. Acceleration doesn't seem to be blunted by the taller diff, and if anything overall acceleration is quicker as I have to make fewer gear changes before I run out of revs. Around 800rpm lower at 70mph, so should save a little fuel too...I call that a win-win!

Although I've been working during lockdown, we've been staying at home the rest of the time, so inbetween DIY tasks and chores I've managed to escape to the workshop to progress the AC installation. The last stage was to mount the evaporator under the dashboard - my plan was to fit something in this ducting...



...which sits between the blower motor on the left, and the heater matrix assembly on the right, connected to the bulkhead fittings I've already installed.



I spent hours drawling Google images, and bought one for a Hyundai Amica (keeping it OEM) as I thought it should fit.



However once I tried to place it in the available space, it was just too big, the pipes were in the wrong direction, and I'd still need to make a case for it.



Plan B was a lucky find with a universal evaporator, including a case! Smaller, and connections where I wanted them :-)



I made up a hose for the inlet and fitted a thermal expansion valve, but the outlet needed a bit of ingenuity with some 45 degree fittings and a welder, to match up with the bulkhead connections. With hindsight I'd have drilled the holes for these afterwards, although I was fairly limited not to foul the rocker cover in the engine bay.



Then I could lift the evaporator unit into position, and connect it all up.



Next stage was to cut the ducting down, and bond it to a plate I could screw to the evaporator outlet...



...now painted and in position, linked to the heater matrix assembly.



More ducting was then replaced - you can see it was a bit of a 3D jigsaw to get everything in the right place!



On the inlet side I made up a similar plate, although I had to make a removable section so I could slide the blower motor into place.



Here in position.



And blower motor slotted in.



There's very little space for the recirculation flap on the motor casing, but fortunately just enough. Then the last piece of ducting could be put in for the passenger face vent, together with a thermostat to cycle the compressor, to prevent the evaporator from icing up.



Then was the nerve-wracking job of pumping it down to see whether it would hold a vacuum!



I've just used a cheap Chinese vacuum pump, as I figure I'm hardly going to be giving it heavy usage. Once I knew it was leak tight and not loosing any measurable vacuum over 24 hours, I could charge the system with refrigerant.



I basically just filled until the vent temperature didn't get any lower, whilst keeping an eye on the pressures. Temperature stabilised at just under 9 degrees C, which corresponded to a high side pressure of about 200psi which is in the right sort of ball park. I was hopeful of getting the vent temperature down a bit once on the move, with more airflow and the compressor spinning faster. So, what did I get down to?



I'd call that a RESULT! It all seems to work better than I could have imagined :-) Now to hopefully enjoy the summer in it...