edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862 
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So now the obp pedal box has a throttle cable that does something, was just a solid bar that moved which is odd. Now drilled and threaded with a motorcross cable. Cant actually see the bit I worked on in the pic, but its another job done!  Exhaust is now all sorted, tacked the chopped up stainless together today and it's been unbolted to be tig welded. Rad mounts are also done as is the gear linkage. All just tacked up with the exhaust in the pics but I've taken it off and its been fully welded now. I'll get around to fitting the new rubbers and painting it up sometime. Spare engine pulled out today now thats all done. Have to move the car in the next couple of weeks so will be making an A frame to clamp onto the subframe then tow it like a trailor.   |
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Last Edit: Jul 6, 2017 10:32:29 GMT by edk83
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Today I have fitted my torsen b diff and checked out the inside of the gearbox. Shocked it went back together all ok  Must remember to put oil in it!  Here is a pic of the bottom rad mounts fashioned from mgf top mounts.  Also been cds tube shopping today, quick offer up and it looks good although a lot of work.  |
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Last Edit: Jul 6, 2017 10:36:18 GMT by edk83
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cool!
what you going to do for the tube ends, coping ? paper guides and angle grinder, or maybe hole saw angled in drill press? fishing for ideas really !
i remember on "a 4x4 is born" he had a belt sander and was using the turn at the end to eat into the tubes for shaping. even oxide paper deleted the metal pretty quick
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Last Edit: Apr 4, 2016 11:07:06 GMT by darrenh
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cut the ends on a tube into point, and join that way,admittedly only works to add a tube at 90 degrees ....
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  You get the idea ..you have to get the angle right,but it works..... |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Yeah heard it called the fishmouth joint lol
I'm planning on making it bolt in, more work but I wont have to cut the floors to weld the top of the cage, easier to paint too.
The front section is going to bolt to the main hoop and the door bars will be removable too.
Will fab up mounts from the floor and captive nuts
Need to order some weld on bolt flanges |
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Last Edit: Apr 4, 2016 16:02:30 GMT by edk83
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Well now I'm offically skint!  Hoping that I might be able to use the front pair to build rear coils in place of the displacers down the road. Still not sure how high the front will sit on the subframe but at least now I have some height adjustment as I can always swap the springs for stock TF ones which would give me an extra 25mm, will have to see! |
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Last Edit: Jul 6, 2017 10:37:13 GMT by edk83
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hamps
Posted a lot
www.medwayrscentre.co.uk
Posts: 2,077
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Loving this build |
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Yeah heard it called the fishmouth joint lol
I'm planning on making it bolt in, more work but I wont have to cut the floors to weld the top of the cage, easier to paint too.
The front section is going to bolt to the main hoop and the door bars will be removable too.
Will fab up mounts from the floor and captive nuts
Need to order some weld on bolt flanges If you do a rummage around the net there's a freeware program that lets you define the angle and diameter of the tube, then print out a paper template which you can use to grind the right shape. If I find it, I'll drop a link in. |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Thanks mate, that could be handy. All the tubes are about 2-4 cm over length so I'll have a bit of room for error. Need to finish off the front end before starting on the cage but it'll get done this summer  |
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You might want to watch this:
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Cheers How hard can it be haha I'm sure I'll cock it up here and there. Building the mounts up from the floor and sills will be more of a challenge, captive nuts to weld in etc. Still hoping to make it bolt in and use the weld on bolt clamps. |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Got the modded mgf stainless exhaust back from the tig welders Most people do stainless cat back, guess I'm just backwards! It connects to a modded 2" mini system with a cherry bomb then a sportex backbox. It's in good condition but it might get remade in stainless later.  The sun has been outday so have been making new inner wings that come down to meet the gearbox and alternator covers from the mgf. Slight bobo we welded the inner wing to the tower on the subframe lol. Will slice and put a joining plate in later.  I have decided that for the rear suspension I'm going to try and copy Jonny's coil and top hat design like this. The Cv type gaitors on my hydragas cans are a bit knackered so rather than depressurise to change just the gaitors might as well do the conversion.  The mgtf shocks that I have bought won't do for having a tube to take the knuckle tig'd to the top so bought these from a robin hood kit car, should be able to chop the top eye off and build from there. They are height adjustable, might get some gaz dampers later but don't like to cut up expensive ones!  Next job is build an A frame to bolt to the subframe and tow the car to new house! |
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Last Edit: Jul 6, 2017 10:39:35 GMT by edk83
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Kieran
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,092
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The Robin Hood shocks are Zeemerides and pretty curse word to be honest. That said, the top eye can be unscrewed from them.
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The Ashby Jackson fleet:-
1979 Mini Clubman 1.8 K series
1978 Skoda 110r Project 130RS K-oupe
1978 Austin Allegro 1500 SDL Estate
1984 BMW K100 Sidecar outfit
1999 Yamaha FZS 1000 Fazer
1991 Kawasaki ZXR400 race bike
2002 Kawasaki ZX9r race bike
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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They were £35 and £5 post from ebay so wont feel too bad modding them
Thinking gaz adjustables in the long run, they are about £80 each without springs, maybe I could use the Zeemerides springs?
Either way has to be better than the hydragas, no offence to it but its was massively boaty and bottomed out a lot!
Edit
Just been googling the Zeemerides, they are standard mini dampers with a threaded sleeve over the top for height adjustment and the different top plate to take the spring and eye.
Hmm I'll certianlly not feel bad about chopping them but will certainly keep and eye out for some gaz
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Last Edit: Apr 9, 2016 18:45:46 GMT by edk83
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Kieran
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,092
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The Main problem with them is that the rubber bushes are not upto holding the weight of the car, they are just meant for shock absorbers! They don't last too minutes on Robin Hoods.
When I built my Robin Hood, I ended up turning up a set of nylon bushes. Maybe you can get polybushes?
No offence taken at all, you're doing a great job!
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Last Edit: Apr 10, 2016 7:20:02 GMT by Kieran
The Ashby Jackson fleet:-
1979 Mini Clubman 1.8 K series
1978 Skoda 110r Project 130RS K-oupe
1978 Austin Allegro 1500 SDL Estate
1984 BMW K100 Sidecar outfit
1999 Yamaha FZS 1000 Fazer
1991 Kawasaki ZXR400 race bike
2002 Kawasaki ZX9r race bike
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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I'd love a robin hood, spent a while looking at half built kits a few years ago was very tempted. Yeah I have been on the robin hood build forums and seen the state of the bushes after a few track runs. People seem to report that they are alright if your happy changing bushes all the time and people have sourced better ones. I was just thinking the very same thing about polybushes, you can get kits to mould your own. Still keeping my eye out for some gaz |
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Kieran
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,092
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I built one from scratch  They are ok, a bit heavy and fastening anything to round tube is a pain. Given the choice, I'd probably build an mk or other locost style car. Anyhoo, let the Allegroness continue! |
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Last Edit: Apr 10, 2016 9:57:01 GMT by Kieran
The Ashby Jackson fleet:-
1979 Mini Clubman 1.8 K series
1978 Skoda 110r Project 130RS K-oupe
1978 Austin Allegro 1500 SDL Estate
1984 BMW K100 Sidecar outfit
1999 Yamaha FZS 1000 Fazer
1991 Kawasaki ZXR400 race bike
2002 Kawasaki ZX9r race bike
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Apr 10, 2016 16:13:07 GMT
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Looks mint that, appart from the front shocks maybe! Lol they were on the more affordable side of kit cars when I looked. Bet they are a lot of fun though, but yes the Allegroness is continuing! Gear linkage all done with posh bushes  Started filling in the other inner arch, we welded it to the subframe on purpose this time so I'll just slit it and bolt a joining plate over Got the engine mount to navigate next and a load of inner wing to replace closer to the front where its crusty.  |
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Last Edit: Jul 6, 2017 10:40:49 GMT by edk83
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Must remember to put oil in it!
