ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,129
Club RR Member Number: 134
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Oct 23, 2015 11:31:54 GMT
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Sorry gents, but I tend to get itchy feet too easily and I have seen something else I'm twitching for.
Rest assured, the sale will be like an audition to own this! Lol. I won't be humouring timewasters as its too nice a car.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,975
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Oct 23, 2015 17:13:21 GMT
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Sorry gents, but I tend to get itchy feet too easily and I have seen something else I'm twitching for. Rest assured, the sale will be like an audition to own this! Lol. I won't be humouring timewasters as its too nice a car. Damn your itchy feet....... On the plus side it's a thread I can un-bookmark leaving a space for whatever you have itchy feet for Good luck with the sale hope it goes to a good home
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Oct 24, 2015 13:02:01 GMT
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Now if I were to sell up I'd be tempted! There is something about a TVR for sure .
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,129
Club RR Member Number: 134
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Stupid Sexy TVR.... So as it is for sale, I have took the effort to sort all the annoying niggles. (The benefit to this is that the idea of selling it is driving me to fix stuff... if it doesn't sell I'll have a fully sorted car that in all fairness I might be happy to keep) First up, the leak. This was an easy, if expensive fix. Got the old radiator out and removed the fans. Gave it a proper going over but for the life of me there is no visible leak. I have a few points of corrosion but the rad was holding water when I removed it, suggesting it had leaked down to the pinhole level rather than totally draining. As such, I must have a leak higher than the base. I'll do a leak test later... Interestingly, the fans are SPAL's: ...although I'm sure that's probably TVR standard thoroughfare. With the rad out I had a look around the area for more clues. At first I suspected the larger air filter I fitted might have been knocking against the core, but on inspection it is miles away, and secured pretty tight. If nothing else at least I have a chance to pick up all those dropped washers from this part of the plastic tub! And yes, the indicator is off. The glue has cracked so I'll need to reattach it (yes, they are glued in place from factory). So.. the new radiator? Yes, it is bling: Very alloy polished bling. Shame it will be mostly covered with the SPAL's once refitted, but at least I know its a bit better than stock. So why my opening comment of stupid sexy TVR? Well, I have other niggles on my to-do list. One of those is a blowing exhaust gasket, right where the header joins the block. Oh lovely, loads of access.... I have managed to remove 6 of the 8 bolts holding this on. Interestingly, the 2 at the front of the engine where I have the blow were barely tight. I suspect these have loosened off and over time the gasket has failed due to the lack of pressure on it. So what's left? Well, I have one lower bolt at the very back of the engine. I'm under no illusions, the starter motor is going to have to come out to access it, its just far too tight in there. The other bolt? I'm even less enthusiastic about that. Its on the second port in from the front, on the bottom. I can access it OK from below, but I can't get a full ring spanner on it, only an open one. The header curves out too close to it. Also, its feckin solid, and try as I might it was not for moving with an open spanner. I didn't want to risk rounding it so I left it to soak in WD overnight. I'll try again tonight, maybe using heat
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,129
Club RR Member Number: 134
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Sweet baby Jaysus, what were TVR thinking when they came up with these manifolds??? Dropped the starter out first thing last night, fairly simple task and made light work of taking out the rear lower manifold bolt. That just left this wee fecker: As mentioned, the header completely enclosed the bolt, which wouldn't case an issue normally as once loose you could space the manifold to get it fully retracted. Problem is, getting the torque on it to break the thread in the first place. I have only got the option of an open ended spanner, and as you can see, the edges of the hex were getting shiny by this point, and this was after a full 24 hours soaked in WD40. Plan B (or maybe F by this point) focused on the rather fortuitous fact that this was the last remaining bolt... I got the whole car int he air and removed the entire exhaust system, which gave me the space to pull the Y pipe which merges the 2 headers. Once this was off, I had about 6-8 inches of "wobble" on the manifold around the bolts axis. This worked a treat, and eventually caught the bolt enough to slacken it... Relieved. Problem now is the header wont come free from the bay, mostly due to that heater pipe running along side the rocker cover. Ordinarily I would just work with it in place but I'm not keen on me (or whoever else) having the same trauma. One such example of "improvements" is to notch the lower bolt holes so the manifold can refit with the bolts pre-threaded, making life a lot simpler. In my mind, this also helps get penetrant straight into the threads again without a full manifold face in the way. As such, I want the manifold off to do this!
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you seem to have aquired a grubby Subaru? with all the sorting out on the TVR, I think I;d be keeping it regardless
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,129
Club RR Member Number: 134
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Oct 28, 2015 11:15:11 GMT
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that Subaru has been there for months. Its a spares car for the last one I had, will be going to the great scrap yard in the sky this weekend.
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,129
Club RR Member Number: 134
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So following the acquisition of a 8mm, 12 face, 1/4" drive socket (these are harder to find than you think...) I got the fouling heater pipes off from the side of the rocker cover, and the manifold was out! I will confess, I have had to take a few other bits out to allow this, namely the lower rad to water pump lines... These are waaay to grubby to belong on a TVR. I had noticed the flaking previously and had always promised to get silicone hoses on here at some point. Now is this point, so it will get a tidy before going back in. The manifold itself... Is in decent condition. I had a good look over it for signs of cracks etc. No real problems to note. The leaking gasket was fairly evident... ...by its black soot. I think it was this point where I noticed the biggest worry I have found yet. Soot, or rather the lack of it... This is cylinder 5 (3rd from front) on the manifold. Its not a trick of the light, that's a total lack of soot in there. The inside of the tube looks brand new. Ruh Roh. Surely the corresponding port on the head is... ...oh rollocks. Clean as a whistle. well, some mild soot but nothing like the others. Right.... I've either lost a spark, which seams unlikely as its never sounded like that, or I've dropped an injector... Thoughts?
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,975
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Oct 29, 2015 20:11:03 GMT
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...by its black soot. I think it was this point where I noticed the biggest worry I have found yet. Soot, or rather the lack of it... This is cylinder 5 (3rd from front) on the manifold. Its not a trick of the light, that's a total lack of soot in there. The inside of the tube looks brand new. Ruh Roh. Surely the corresponding port on the head is... ...oh rollocks. Clean as a whistle. well, some mild soot but nothing like the others. Right.... I've either lost a spark, which seams unlikely as its never sounded like that, or I've dropped an injector... Thoughts? Err well asy you are asking - there is another alternative - that coolant is getting into that cyl bore and it's pressure washing the bore and exhaust ports as well as the manifold It's very suprising how little H2O is needed to clean up an engine when it's introduced into the combustion process
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,129
Club RR Member Number: 134
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Yea, that is the white elephant in the room to be honest.
Lets face it, its not for sale any more. I have a mental disability where i CANNOT "just fix" a problem. It has to be upgraded at every opportunity. Let me tell you, if that head is coming off, it won't be the same when it goes back on... Nor will my wallet....
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fer4l
Posted a lot
Testing
Posts: 1,497
Club RR Member Number: 73
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Necessity is the mother of improvement!
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stevietuck
Posted a lot
Never argue with idiots,they drag you down to their level then beat you with their expertise!
Posts: 1,350
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That a bit of a bummer mate, ah well at least you have a nice warm garage for your winter project. Think you better get the log burner stoked up
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,129
Club RR Member Number: 134
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Oct 30, 2015 11:03:09 GMT
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I'm building central heating by the way... why not?
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Oct 30, 2015 12:47:06 GMT
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Is it bad that I'm kind of happy you are forced to keep this? It's way too good to be for sale!!
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,129
Club RR Member Number: 134
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Oct 30, 2015 12:54:24 GMT
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Is it worse that I am too?
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Oct 30, 2015 13:11:50 GMT
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Haha, yay indeed. Well, almost. You do have to fix quite a few things don't you? By the way, has anyone here cleaned their engine by spraying a tiny bit of water into the throttle bodies or carbs? I'd seen pictures of cylinders after an HGF before, and I find that cleanliness weirdly alluring.
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,129
Club RR Member Number: 134
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OK, some deeper digging to establish how bad "cleanport-gate" is.. Rear most cylinder on the left, followed by offending port then the 2 other sooted ports on the right. Comparing the rear with the offender: Offender with the 2 neighbouring cylinders either side: ...and the offender on the left with the 2 forward pistons to its right. Not as transparent as I had hoped. The ceramic of the plug looks as new, but the rear-most cylinder is in much the same condition. all 4 plugs have soot on the base, and the tips look to be running in the correct temperature. My only possible concern would be the rear 2 leaning out judging by the colour of the ceramic. Its a multi point injection engine though so seems odd 2 neighboring injectors would be down? Anyway, spurred by my lack of result on the plug diagnostics, and still suspecting a head gasket, I hooked up the compression tester to settle the debate... 125psi on all pistons on the O/S bank. Good result I would say. So, its got to be either injectors or spark..
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i wouldve put money on heagasket too. i once had some detting which ate the head away from underneath the fire ring, across to a water gallery, the top of the piston was like a bathroom mirror, exhaust valve throat like fresh casting. but of course then youd have associated symptoms, water usage, steam out the exhaust, over pressurised coolant system
i cant really think of a scenario where lack of combustion cleans the manifold out, unless that cylinder has never fired in its life of course, but the plugs defy that logic.
the other option is overheating or high EGT, secondary combustion in the exhaust port due to an air leak..... ah !
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Last Edit: Nov 2, 2015 15:42:52 GMT by darrenh
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125 seems a bit low, however all even which is good, did you open the throttle?
how are the valve clearances looking?
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,129
Club RR Member Number: 134
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125 seems a bit low, however all even which is good, did you open the throttle? how are the valve clearances looking? For a Rover V8? I don't have the most accurate meter but its consistent across all 4. Throttle was closed for test. Valve clearances would be next on the list, along with a good look at the camshaft. I plan on having the inlet and rockers off soon anyway for a clean up. Going to get the rad and coolant gubbins in first though.
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