goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,886
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Nov 30, 2014 10:13:03 GMT
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I sorted the exhaust out yesterday I decided to go with an Rx8 standard rear silencer because I knew it would be quiet, but also it would be designed to flow as much as a rotary needs. Low back pressure is really important on a rotary engine if you want to make power and the Rx8 silencer must flow well or else the Rx8 wouldn't be able to make it's 200+hp. It was also useful that the Rx8 uses 2.5" diameter pipe, same as the rest of my system is already made from. When it arrived it was even bigger than I expected though, and as you can see it's just a touch larger than the back box I was originally running…. Getting it to fit was therefore more of a pain than I'd hoped, but the area under the back of an mx5 is surprisingly large so once I'd repositioned the hangers on the silencer it tucked up nicely. Linking it up to my original mid section was simple enough, I chopped up a bend from the back section I was removing and repurposed it. The only issue left was that the shiny twin exit pipes were now wider than the back of the car and sitting slightly back from the bumper. So I cut them off and re-jigged the pipework so they would sit narrower but further back. Unfortunately welding them back together, I didn't get them quite as straight as I'd hoped, they area bit wonky so I might revisit this at some stage. And then it was time for a test drive I'm very happy with the sound, it's almost too quiet. Pottering about town and cruising on A roads I'd say it's really not far off the volume of any standard car, but when I stick my foot down there's still a definite jump in volume and it's loud enough to hear over the radio and enjoy on a thrash about. In the past this would have been too quiet for me, and I think if this was a weekend car then it would still be too quiet, but I'm sure I'm gonna to reap the rewards when I leave for a job at 5:20am tomorrow and a. I don't wake the whole neighbourhood and more importantly b. it eases me into the morning a bit more. I'm not ready for 110+ dB sounds at 6am. haha. I did try to grab a couple of video clips of the sound yesterday, I didn't have much time to do so and the roads were really busy, but you can get the impression of what the sound is like. The video totally removes all sense of speed, believe it or not but the 1st driving clip is a 0-60…
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Last Edit: Nov 30, 2014 10:14:30 GMT by goldnrust
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MK2VR6
Posted a lot
Mk2 Golf GTi 90 Spec
Posts: 3,329
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Looking goooood! Just sold a 94 Eunos to a bloke who couldn't sell his RX8, so he's chopping it up, and basically attaching the front end onto the Eunos. Could be interesting - think I prefer your approach to be fair
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,886
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Dec 12, 2014 19:51:43 GMT
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That there is a photograph which should send shivers down the spine of any rotary owner. It's a front rotor leading plug, and it's wet with coolant. So yeah over the past couple of weeks I've been noticing various slightly worrying symptoms; coolant is going missing, the coolant overflow is getting very full, the engines blowing bubbles into the coolant overflow and it's been a pain to start. It would start every time on 1 rotor, with the second joining in ~10 seconds later, and when hot it also kicked out a lovely big cloud of steam. Basically, short of spitting all the coolant out, overheating and smoking/streaming like mad the whole time, lots of classic signs of a water seal failure. Water seal failure is sort of equivalent to head gasket failure, its a full engine rebuild job to fix. Cranking the engine over once or twice (without ignition on), then pulling a plug is a easy way to see if anything is getting in the chambers. Turning it over makes the axel seals spread anything thats collected at the bottom of the housing around the place. Thats the test that created that nice wet plug up that and put the fear of god into me. After having a mild panic, I decided on a plan of action. The O rings which seal the coolant pathways between the intake manifold and engine block had sprung a leak after my first initial shake down drive. It seemed cured by nipping up the intake manifold bolts a bit more, but it was time to be sure and these O rings are the only other way that coolant can leak inside the engine, besides the dreaded water seal failure. I wasn't going to take any chances with the O rings this time. I ordered some core plugs to permanently block up the coolant passageways into the intake manifold. Originally the coolant flow through the manifold would go off to feed the turbo, but as I've bypassed the coolant flow through the throttle body, I can always use that to feed the turbo should I ever get round to fitting one. Anyway, core plugs are cheap and it didn't take long to get them fitted. Made no difference. So yeah, its a water seal failure. The fact that it wasn't overheating, nor was it steaming too badly from cold suggests that its in the early stages, but still not good. It was also worrying me that this is now the second engine to suffer front water seal failure in this car, so was there a reason? While poking around in the engine bay last night, watching the bubbles in the coolant expansion tank, I came to realise that the radiator cap wasn't holding pressure. Even when the engine had cooled right down, if I even lightly squeezed the coolant hoses it pushed coolant/bubbles out into the expansion tank. I think thats probably the cause No pressure in the cooling system will lower the boiling point of the coolant, which could mean it's boiling by the exhaust ports, allowing the water seal to overheat, and fail. So off to the local motorfactors this morning… new cap on the left obviously Unfortunately my chinese eBay aftermarket radiator needed a cap very similar to an mx5 one but with a bit more reach, so I had to pull the new cap apart and space it out a little. Sounds dodgy but it's worked perfectly. The new cap is sealing well and holding pressure like to should. Still, whilst thats a nice and cheap fix, theres still the water seal issue. Having neither the money or enthusiasm right now for a rebuild project, I took a chance on a bottle of k-seal. I've read mixed things about coolant sealants with rotary engines, there's some success stories and some failures and some scare stories but I figured I didn't have much to loose at this stage. Anyway I chucked it in and went for a drive. Stopping at the petrol station, a regular occurrence (more on this later), it restarted perfectly on 2 rotors with no steam! I've been finding excuses to go for a drive all day, and i've done ~60 miles and a number of stops then both hot and cold starts and so far it's lost no coolant, it's not blowing bubbles in the expansion tank, it's starting cleanly and quickly on both rotors every time and I did the plug test and it's bone dry. So tentative success, wooo! So yeah aside from worrying about the water seals I've spent the past fortnight just using the car. I'm averaging ~21mpg over that period with a mix of driving, it's been feeling like I've been visiting the petrol station pretty often! Predictably, now I've got my nice uneconomical car up and running, I've been offered some work down London way, about a 200 mile round trip. £250 a week in fuel just to get to work isn't unreasonable is it? hahahaha
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Dec 12, 2014 20:39:55 GMT
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Fingers crossed you've caught it and can now leave the seals until you're in the mood to poke about inside.
A quick question, do you have to worry about hydrolocking a rotary? Not related to your problem but just wondering as I have no experience with these.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,886
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Dec 12, 2014 21:06:19 GMT
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Cheers George, I hope so too!
I'm not sure on the hydrolocking front. I do know that they can run with surprising amounts of water getting inside the engine, some water seal failures are so bad they spit water out of the exhaust at a fair rate. With fairly low compression ratios and no con rods to bend I guess they're more resistant than your average piston engine. That said I'm not going to dump a pint of water into my intake to try it out… haha
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Dec 12, 2014 21:53:20 GMT
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With fairly low compression ratios and no con rods to bend I guess they're more resistant than your average piston engine. That said I'm not going to dump a pint of water into my intake to try it out… haha Thanks. That's sort of how I'd seen it. And no, let someone else try the experiment!
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Dec 12, 2014 22:15:03 GMT
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I curse word love this and hope it ain't to much of a problem for you. You have worked wonders on this and quick time too. I worked at Mazda main dealer for a few years and have fond memories of all their cars, well some of them. Good luck sir...
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New cars. Who needs em.....
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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Dec 13, 2014 11:18:34 GMT
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Doesn't sound particularly promising, Steve. Sad times. Have you tried a champagne test anyway? Rotaries are sods for getting weird with the cooling system and pretending to be in the throes of waterseal failure. I was going to suggest the pressure cap as likely culprit, but you've got that one covered. Does it run an expansion tank? My FD was leaking out of the return line on that. Also don't overlook that the radiator itself might be leaking enough for the coolant level to drop without being an obvious puddle-on-the-floor generator.
Not trying to teach egg-sucking, just hoping it's not the worst case scenario
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,886
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Dec 13, 2014 12:18:32 GMT
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Yeah I know rotors can do weird things, I was trying everything I can think of that could have caused it to loose coolant!
The radiator cap was 100% shot, it definitely wasn't holding any pressure. After I core plugged the inlet coolant feeds, I went for a drive and then took the inlet back off, and it was 100% dry, so the only way the front rotor plugs could have been getting wet with coolant, was through a water seal leak.
So far so good since the K-seal though. No coolant lost, started again perfectly this morning despite the cold, no excess smoke/steam.
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Dec 13, 2014 12:43:55 GMT
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That k seal stuff is good, should keep you going til you find the mojo/money to build a big fugoff turbo motor!
21mpg isn't bad for mixed driving. I was only getting 23 to 26 out of my one when I daily'd it.
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Koos
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,886
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Dec 13, 2014 19:20:34 GMT
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Cool, glad to hear a positive thought on the k-seal Yeah 21mpg is about what I expected, I've just forgotten how often I need to fill up with a car doing ~20 mpg rather than the 35-40 of my recent cars! Today I've basically been driving about all day, roof down in the cold, was lovely tonight in the dark. Dan_betG and I went out and played with my camera this afternoon and I was pleased with these couple of shots There's lots of nice pics of Dan's car but I'll let him post them himself
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Last Edit: Dec 13, 2014 19:21:27 GMT by goldnrust
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duncanmartin
Club Retro Rides Member
Out of retro ownership
Posts: 1,320
Club RR Member Number: 70
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Dec 13, 2014 21:41:45 GMT
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Cool pictures. Fingers crossed that the engine holds together for long enough that you can build the awesome replacement... Cheers Duncan
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Bro that second picture is mean aye! Rugged as. I take it Dan's car is parked on a slight slope and he hasn't raised the back end up?
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Dec 14, 2014 22:42:45 GMT
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Bro that second picture is mean aye! Rugged as. I take it Dan's car is parked on a slight slope and he hasn't raised the back end up? Yes sir
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qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,417
Club RR Member Number: 52
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Wow had a lot to catch up on in this thread.
Glad you've got it on the road. Hope the k seal sorts it until you can rebuild.
Rotaries fascinate me but also scare the hell out of me haha.
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Bro that second picture is mean aye! Rugged as. I take it Dan's car is parked on a slight slope and he hasn't raised the back end up? Yes sir Ahh there we go! I didn't think it was like the Dan I hardly know to raise his car up
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You can always strip it down and just replace the seals- That's what i did when i discovered the frost damaged centre plate. In fact I only needed new inner seals. You can reuse the outer ones! They expand and get longer but also slightly fatter. I think they swell overtime. I just cut a section out, super glued it back together and made sure the join was at the top in the coolest part of the cycle. Never used a drip of coolant. Saved me many monies on what was a budget special.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,886
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Dec 17, 2014 10:04:24 GMT
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qwerty, no need to be scared by rotaries They're no more complicated, not more difficult to work on nor more difficult to drive than a piston engine, they're just different. I always draw the comparisons to 2 stroke motorcycle engines, you've kinda gotta put everything you know about 4 stroke piston engines to one side, and look at it a fresh it makes it much easier than trying to convert all the theory back to 'if this was a 4 stroke piston engine thats equivalent to the …..' Hobbawobba, nice to see you yesterday mate, you need to get a thread about your Rx7 up and running! Also there's loads more pics and info on Dans car HERE Thanks for the heads up Alex A soft seal kit from Atkins isn't too pricey really, gonna be about £200 shipped/taxes I think? so I'd probably play it safe with new seals if I can keep going as is till the end of January. I have to admit enthusiasm is playing a part in not wanting to start a rebuild tomorrow. Over the summer, while only having my wife's KA to drive, I really got back into bikes. 2 wheels were important in my life, long before 4 wheels, though over the past few years 4 wheels have played a bigger part. I really enjoyed riding my bike lots this summer, and used it as transport, rather than just a toy, more than I have for a long time. It's really got me excited about building a bike project. The downside for the car is that there are only so many hours in the day and to be honest whist I'm loving the mx5 on the right roads, in the right weather, I'm also wishing for a simpler life at times and just want it to work when I turn the key! haha.
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Last Edit: Dec 21, 2014 20:18:07 GMT by goldnrust
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,886
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Dec 21, 2014 20:40:22 GMT
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Since last weekends fun and games with the cooling system, this week has been smooth sailing I've got in the car, turned the key and its worked, and I've driven places, and the driven home! How novel That said, I'd been a little worried by a lot of negative experiences with K-sela that were coming out on one of the rotary forums I'm on. The concern is that the K-seal remains 'active' and that it can start to block up coolant passageways that aren't meant to be blocked, with that in mind I figured I'd do a coolant change and flush. The K-seal has done its job and sealed the coolant leak, so now I should be fine to flush any excess out and put fresh coolant in and it should give it the best fighting chance at working happily for a while longer. When Id dropped the coolant and got the rad hoses off, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the k-seal didn't seem to have started collecting anywhere it wasn't meant to. Certainly no blocked passageways in the rad there. This is all after having k-seal in the system for 1 week and about 200 miles. Anyway, still seemed sensible to flush it all out… I got it back together and filled it with fresh coolant and have done about 70 miles since, still working just fine. So that's promising. While I had the car in bits, I decided to give it a once over. Its done ~1000miles seance I got it back on the road, so it's had a good shakedown! I was pleased to find that most things had stayed tight, only the upper ARB drop links seemed to not be as torqued up as I expected. I have been getting a light nocking front the front left, and was hoping that doing a retorque of all the suspension band brake components would stop it, but it hasn't. I wonder If the wheel bearings on the way out, add that to the to do list! I also removed one of the rear toe hooks, as it had been catching against the exhaust. For a mk1 mx5 my car is now surprisingly rattle/knock free! Always a good thing. The road noise is starting to get on my nerves though, it's dreadful at motorway speeds. I'm currently running without any sound deadening under the carpet because the mice had eaten it, but I think refitting some is moving up the priority list
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Dec 23, 2014 12:34:37 GMT
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I never had any problems with k seal in any of the engines I've usd it in.
Radweld however is a completely different matter.... Maybe that's what the lesser forums meant?
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Koos
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