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May 28, 2014 12:17:00 GMT
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I love thumbing through old car magazines, you can learn an awful lot from them...
I was flicking through one in particular (from 1972) the other day and they had a Toledo as a staff car and I read the 12,000 mile report. They spoke VERY highly of the little Triumph which made me very happy indeed!
One thing that the driver had done to this particular Toledo was add some sound deadening pads (these were heavily advertised in car mags way back when) to the underneath of the bonnet, in the boot/petrol tank area and above the rear wheel arches to try and stop some of the noise and vibration entering the cabin.
I'm interested in adding similar 'pads' to my Toledo as it can get quite noisy in there at times!
What would you good people recommend I use?! I imagine finding an original kit would be impossible now so improvising is the key here I feel!
If any of you can suggest anything that would be hugely appreciated. Many thanks in advance...
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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May 28, 2014 13:21:38 GMT
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would something like dynomat or similair work, like they use in stereo builds?
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May 28, 2014 14:31:00 GMT
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As said, have a look at dynomat, you can buy it in sheets or rolls, then you cut it to size.
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May 28, 2014 16:51:57 GMT
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As said, have a look at dynomat, you can buy it in sheets or rolls, then you cut it to size. Is it heatproofed? I've never used the stuff but it's the first question that came to mind... |
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May 28, 2014 17:41:48 GMT
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For the inside of doors etc it doesn't need to be.
Not sure how hot other areas get as to need heat proof stuff
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May 28, 2014 17:51:13 GMT
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For the inside of doors etc it doesn't need to be. Not sure how hot other areas get as to need heat proof stuff Thinking under the bonnet, not even if its a fire risk, but if it gets warm and starts to niff a bit... |
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May 28, 2014 18:01:28 GMT
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As said, have a look at dynomat, you can buy it in sheets or rolls, then you cut it to size. Is it heatproofed? I've never used the stuff but it's the first question that came to mind... Have a spec sheet for their "Xtreme" range. www.dynamat.co.nz/DynamatXtremeSpecSheet.pdfOptimal up to 60c and can withstand up to 149c. I'd say that's fine on the bonnet. They also advertised another type called "hoodliner" specifically for under bonnet use. |
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Last Edit: May 28, 2014 18:03:16 GMT by mrdelmonti
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May 28, 2014 18:09:02 GMT
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Is it heatproofed? I've never used the stuff but it's the first question that came to mind... Have a spec sheet for their "Xtreme" range. www.dynamat.co.nz/DynamatXtremeSpecSheet.pdfOptimal up to 60c and can withstand up to 149c. I'd say that's fine on the bonnet. They also advertised another type called "hoodliner" specifically for under bonnet use. Ta! But for quoting purposes, it would have been so much better if your reply was simply "yes"   |
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May 28, 2014 18:19:32 GMT
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Make sure the quieter cabin will offset the extra weight. Sound deadening stuff is heavy as well as expensive, which can affect economy and acceleration. Once I removed it from my Toledo, I'm not sure how much noisier it actually got. On my first Dolomite, I added loads of the stuff and it just meant I became more of the wind noise around the quarter lights so didn't bother again.
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May 30, 2014 18:42:17 GMT
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I'll probably get shot down in flames for even suggesting this, but try flash banding for roofing. It's cheap and does the job. Or by dynomat.
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Carter
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,535
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Flashband will do the job for deadening panel vibration, but it is bitumen based, whereas proper auto vibro/sound deadening is butyl based. Butyl has a much better heat resistance and temperature range, is more resistant to oil and solvent, has a longer 'life', and I think is over paintable without causing reactions (don't quote me on this though). The auto butyl products will be have a reflective foil/aluminium skin on the topside too. I used Silent Coat, bought off Amazon, it is cheaper than the don of the block Dynamat.
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'77 Chevy G20
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Sound-proofing kits...ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Besides that, IME you need around 4 layers of flashbanding for one layer of Dynomat Xtreme or SecondSkin Pro for a similar effect to be made. Sure, it is cheaper, but as the old saying goes, time is money . I have also found the premium products WAAAAY easier to apply (less action with the heatgun, and really pushing them hard onto the door etc.). Saying that, I did use flashing tape in the Stag in certain areas. It was OK but despite cleaning the surfaces perfectly I still ended up using a heatgun so as to even allow the stuff to stick; that was Butyl based stuff as well. Skinz or MaxMat are said to be cheaper versions out of the proper stuff which get you 90/95% of the way of the premium products. |
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Thanks for all the help and advice folks...
I've got a few ideas of what I want to do but first of all I'm going to check all my door seals, window seals, boot seal, bonnet seal etc to check how good they are at keeping the noise down!
I wouldn't trust rubber that is nearly 40 years old if you catch my drift...?!?!?!
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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We used to sell acoustic damping stuff in East Antrim Motor Factors (25 years ago now. ouch). The brand name was "Dedshete", and I do remember guys saying they put it on the underside of bonnets. These folks seem to have it, or at least a version thereof: www.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/dedshete-panel-heavy-duty-286-p.asp |
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,868
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Sound-proofing kits...adam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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Jun 10, 2014 11:24:27 GMT
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If you've got lots of wind noise, I would definitely recommend looking at the door/window seals if they're old or original. My MGB GT used to have awful wind noise and would whistle from the drivers door at anything above about 55mph  changed the seals and noticed that the new ones were about twice the thickness of the old ones where they'd been squeezed flat over the years by the door, solved the whistling and made it a little quieter inside  You could perhaps remove more road noise by doubling up the carpets using old offcuts or something under your existing carpet? would certainly be pretty cost effective, might be a water trap though.. |
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changed the seals and noticed that the new ones were about twice the thickness of the old ones where they'd been squeezed flat over the years by the door, solved the whistling and made it a little quieter inside 