squonk
Part of things
Posts: 863
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Oct 18, 2014 19:14:27 GMT
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I had a bad feeling about that when I saw how clean piston no. 7 was, usually a dead giveaway on the RV8. If you want to go ahead and use this engine the best option you have is to get the block machined for top hat (flanged) liners and have them fitted. Not cheap but a permanent solution.
I'd be interested as to how you get on with LPG and a supercharger. I've toyed with this on a turbo charged Rover T16 engine I have but haven't worked out a solution to the fact that under boost the manifold pressure will probably be higher than the LPG supply pressure so the LPG won't inject!! Only solution I can see is to inject the LPG on the low pressure side of the compressor and I suspect that making that run properly without leaning out under certain conditions will be a challenge.
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Oct 18, 2014 20:18:19 GMT
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I've got a few options on what to do with the block, it was quite obvious when I plugged the airline in, just bubbled some of the old oil out from the liner edge like it does in the youtube videos! I'd rather get a tophat lined block than risk trying to find a block which doesn't have leakage issues, that way I'll know for sure it will work. I would however like to get the fueling and management set up as well as possible first, so that when it comes to doing a build on a new block it'll work at the turn of the key for running in purposes. I'm still reading around lpg, and the best one seems to be sequential or multipoint. Single point has more potential of becoming a bomb. The plan now is fit an lpg setup that fuels based on reading the injectors off the ecu which is why I'm planning Megasquirt. The Australians seem to be really into their lpg on forced induction
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 863
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Oct 18, 2014 20:34:50 GMT
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The plan now is fit an lpg setup that fuels based on reading the injectors off the ecu which is why I'm planning Megasquirt. I have an LPG ECU that does exactly that (can't remember the make). Eventually it will be going on to a Jeep Grand Cherokee that I've had kicking around unloved and unused for a few years.
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Oct 19, 2014 14:13:31 GMT
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The plan now is fit an lpg setup that fuels based on reading the injectors off the ecu which is why I'm planning Megasquirt. I have an LPG ECU that does exactly that (can't remember the make). Eventually it will be going on to a Jeep Grand Cherokee that I've had kicking around unloved and unused for a few years. Yeah one of those, I'm told it would need optimizing to suit the installation and should do the trick without issues, the higher octane rating being of benefit with boost too. Not many people have done it, or paid specialists to fit the kit and all they know is where to fill it up. Not much use to me where I want to know the full ins and outs of how it runs, and what each component does and how they work together.
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Oct 21, 2014 19:50:13 GMT
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MAD MAX!
I love it, can wait to hear it!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Oct 26, 2014 14:26:58 GMT
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Thanks for the photo DarrenW MAD MAX! I love it, can wait to hear it! Does it show The cylinder heads and timer cover were also scrubbed up and given a coat of high temperature black with a coat of blue over the top. Looks nice but I really don't know if and how long it will last! It's been pointed out to me that the Range Rover P38 sump is incompatable with the SD1 crossmember. The reason being the pick-up pipe from the crankshaft mounted oil pump hangs down low, and the oil bowl is too deep. The plan will be to adapt or make a new pick-up pipe that runs tight against the side of the block clear of the crankshaft, then turn 90 degrees at main bearing cap no.4 to reach down into the sump bowl. I have spare early and late Range Rover sumps so will make a hybrid from the two to clear the crossmember and steering rack I've also bought a Megasquirt kit, just waiting for it to come through the post. It will be nice to have 100% control over the fuel and ignition, get the most out of the old Rover V8
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Oct 29, 2014 12:07:08 GMT
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This just arrived through the post Time for some more fun!
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I've also bought a Megasquirt kit, just waiting for it to come through the post. It will be nice to have 100% control over the fuel and ignition, get the most out of the old Rover V8 Yes, Mega squirt good idea: Need flames on over run
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Contrary to popular opinion, I do have mechanical sympathy, I always feel sorry for the cars I drive.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Oct 30, 2014 10:29:15 GMT
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Yes, Mega squirt good idea: Need flames on over run Oh yes! I need to figure out the running of two maps, one for regular driving including leaving home in the early hours for work, then a full on LOOK AT ME spitting flames for fun map
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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So starting the Megasquirt install, I needed to fit my wideband lambda sensor which I plundered from my P6, after a bit of reseach, decided that the O2 probe at the y-piece was a sensible place to fit it, and there was a handy rubber bung inline with it so there's minimal extra wiring under the car and it's tucked up out of harms way My coilpack mount was adapted to go from behind the carbs to the side of the plenum chamber on the inlet manifold fuel rail mount bosses After a false start trying to disable the coil without disabling the distributer triggering (ended up using an old lead and spark plug and just letting it dangle into the inner wing so as not to spark against the efi trigger) I had the engine running off the Rover hotwire efi and Ford EDIS8 coilpacks. Next job was to power up the Megasquirt ecu so I can start monitoring the air/fuel ratio and begin controlling the Ford EDIS coilpack ignition. It took a while to work out how to select the afr controller in the tuning software so as to see the afr readings on my computer. What I've wasted the last few hours on is trying to get the Megasquirt ecu to see a spark trigger from the EDIS controller, it just comes up with a error message in the tuning software 'rpm not synced'. I'm sure the EDIS PIP and SAW connections are correct, and it worked on the previous Megajolt installation I had, just won't work with the present setup I'm trying to build! Once that hurdle is crossed, I should have full mappable coilpack ignition once again, and I can familiarise myself with the tuning software interface ready for making a start on the fuel side of things
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Dec 23, 2014 17:37:42 GMT
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New ignition leads made up and fitted to the V8 for the coilpacks The wiring needs tidying up and integrating into the SD1 loom properly, just been too busy and pre-occupied with other stuff to do so! Just got this through the post today
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Dec 24, 2014 12:02:44 GMT
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Cool, what make is the LSD?
Love MAD MAX gear lever switch.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Dec 24, 2014 13:45:34 GMT
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Cool, what make is the LSD? Love MAD MAX gear lever switch. GKN unit from a Jaguar, got a few ideas in my head
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Dec 25, 2014 19:34:49 GMT
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I've got a plan in my head to build a new back axle for the SD1, based on a Salisbury 4HA type to replace the original. The problems I'm having are excessive free play in the diff and extension leading to some awful driveline clonks and growling/grumbling on and off load. The wheels also have too much endfloat which probably doesn't help the stability at speed, and the drums just don't seem to want to work reliably, sometimes needing the pedal to be pumped to push the shoes out. When they work they're brilliant, but there are those times when they are less than predictable, so a disc conversion is on the cards. I've ordered a pair of Rover 800 rear discs as they have been used on the back of an SD1 before, and will be going scrapyard hunting to try and find a Rover 800 to have the rear calipers and carriers, and any other fittings I could need for the installation to make something similar to this Recently I've also bought a pair of Jeep Grand Cherokee front hubs, they're 5x5" pcd to start with, and a well known 27 spline drive on what appears to be an easy to mount three bolt flange The idea I have is to use the Scimitar SE6A axle case that's on my diesel P6, replacing that with an earlier and narrower SE5A axle for wheelarch clearance on that project. The shafts and hubs will be discarded, and either 3" long adapters bolted/welded to the axle casing, or one of my spare Jaguar IRS diffs fitted with tubes instead of the Jaguar drive flanges with the Jeep three bolt hub pattern on the ends to make up the full width. I've contacted a company who is interested in helping having a pair of custom shafts made to go from the Jaguar 19 spline Powerlock unit to the Jeep 27 spline hubs, so almost everything is in place except for the torque tube mounting to the front crossmember which I have a few ideas The Jeep hubs held up to the donor axle roughly spaced out to where they'll need to mounting to make the 62" hub face to face width I think it's an almost complete and feasible plan, giving a near indestructable back axle, choice of ratios and LSD option, and one of the pieces of inspiration, a replica of an SD1 rally group A axle
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,441
Club RR Member Number: 48
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 The Doctor
@thedoctor
Club Retro Rides Member 48
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nice! Great thinking going on here. I've got a weak spot for SD1's, i owned 1 for a year, loved it to bits, even though it was in bits most of that time.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Jan 16, 2015 22:02:24 GMT
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nice! Great thinking going on here. I've got a weak spot for SD1's, i owned 1 for a year, loved it to bits, even though it was in bits most of that time. I can't be having something like what everyone else has now can I I've bought some cheap Rover 800 rear discs for the back Unfortunately they won't fit in my lathe to open out the centres so that's something I'll have to farm out to someone else to do for me All change with the cars, diesel P6 out and SD1 finally in the garage for some winter tinkering First job was to fit the new pressed metal number plates, so I took the rear plastic plate off and found a couple of rust scabs around the screw holes, so poked and prodded and ended up attacking with the grinder and sander No shortage of filler on the drivers side, and as of yet no obvious reason for the amount of filler I've found around the entire drivers rear quarter. The only conclusion I've come up with is whoever last did the paint on the Rover fancied themselves as a sculptor The last section of boot carpet was removed from the inside of the back panel to reveal the horror of scotchloks The plan will be to remove them altogether and rewire the trailer electrics better, I've removed the caravan socket as that is completely pointless to have fitted While waiting for the paint to dry for the numberplate plinth my attention turned to my really good efi installation in the passenger footwell The plan all along has been to make a proper power board in the top of the glovebox for the efi so with the SD1 in the garage near the workbench it was an easy job to knock up a folded aluminium tray to bolt on using the existing holes and captive nuts under the dashboard The spare V8 has been uncovered and the new efi loom being laid out and most of the multiplugs fitted, final jobs are fitting multiplugs for a few of the remote sensors, 12v power for the injectors then wrapping I've also started graffiti-ing my wiring diagrams for the Megasquirt loom, hopefully I will be able to make it in one go and not keep modifying it as I go and make it a complete mess! A new fuse box has arrived in the post so that and the knock detector will also need to be squeezed on the power board Annoyingly I've found the heater has been leaking into the passenger footwell so it looks likely that the dashboard will need to be removed to gain access to it, which will be a chance to have a closer look at the rust in the bottom of the dashboard
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vertex
Part of things
Posts: 927
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Jan 17, 2015 12:15:27 GMT
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I had a b reg vitesse back in 1999 loved it. I used to get parts from a guy in Warrington who had a shed/back garden full of parts & a breaker or two on his drive. If I find his contact details I will pass them on.
Wasn't a few containers found somewhere like India full of brand new parts years & years ago..not sure if rimmer bros bought the lot.
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