Any engine builders on here who fancy some work?

It sounds like the bottom end has gone.

I'm a trader, so legally have to warrant cars I sell. However, as I reduced this car substantially for the buyer, it was sold as a trade sale, so no warranty need apply. This was on the invoice.

BUT......he's only had it for a week and done under 200 miles. Although I could probably get away without doing anything, it's not good for business. I'd rather take a hit on this, and not risk the wrath of a bad reputation.

I know there's always possibilities with a car like this that its been on track, or thrashed to death ( literally), but there's no way to prove that. If I could, it'd be a different matter.

So true!

I normally don't deal with cars this new, I prefer to stick with much older stuff. Funnily enough, I never have any issues like this with older cars either!

I thought about taking it back, but the buyer seems to want to keep it. The last thing I want is to spend money getting it sorted, for the same thing to happen all over again.

I can get a fully refurbished engine for £1000, but then nee to pay for fitting. I can get a fully refurbished short engine for £500, but then there would be more labour charges.

I'm not used to dealing with problems like this, especially on newer, more complicated cars, so need to make sure I get it right!

It`s sourcing a good used engine that seems the problem too. There are not many for this car about. There are a few around on ebay etc, but all removed from the car, so can`t be heard running.

It does seem odd that it`s let go like it has, but reading up on these cars, they are pretty prone to this kind of failure. It had done 120k too, which is on the high side for one, although it did have a very good service record. It had a remap last year too at Scoobyclinic, so i`m sure this could`ve contributed. Unfortunately, I don`t record engine numbers. There`s always the chance that this guy is trying to pull the wool over my eyes, but I can generally work someone out fairly well, and he seems genuine.

Unfortunately, I sold the car cheap as I needed space, so only had a small margin in it anyway. Doing the repairs will certainly, without doubt, put me at a loss on the car overall by quite a chunk. These things happen, and I`m more bothered about getting it repaired right than losing the money. Even if I took it back, I`d still be losing the money, and it`d leave me having to sell it again.

Time to make a decision though. I might look down the good used engine route then, and see if I can find one froma well known breaker who offers a good warranty.

Thanks for the input.

My local Scooby specialist won't entertain doing any repairs such as a regrind on these cranks as there's no stress relieving radius left after a grind so knocking = new crank.

From what I understand, the quickest ways to make these knock is to turn the boost up without a remap or rev it over 6500. I hate to say it and I totally respect the position you are taking, but I think you are paying for someone else driving like a dick.

You can't re-grind the cranks for two reasons firstly there is a ball bearing jammed inside one of the crossway oil gallery's so you can't clean all the swarf out from regrinding !!!!!

Most people who have tried usually kill the regrouped crank within run-in period because of the swarf , and secondly they are coated with a hardened surface on the journals and once ground this layer is removed so it won't last too long without

I found a nearly new crank on a scooby site from a guy that was breaking his old motor due to building a stroker setup , went down with my verniers and checked crank out and bought it


Also worth noting replace every gasket and seal inc the dowty seals that sandwich between the block as if your getting it done do it right as if ya don't it can be a mare !!!!

Would normally offer but am snowed in at the moment work-wise and also I'm a bit of a geek when it comes to motor building as would have to blueprint it etc etc and don't like to rush
Seeing as its for a customer don't think 1month or so would be satisfactory


You can buy a brand new v9 crank for a smidge over 500 that comes with all shells too , or there is a chap on ebay that breaks them and sells std sized cranks for 200 quid , if it has span any shells and knackered a rod like mine then I have some spare rods here that you are welcome too as long as you pay post ( only have 3 good ones tho )


Also worth noting these do burn oil I've found at a rate of sometimes 1litre per 1500 miles depending on how good of a build it is ,a lot of people say they have chocolate bottom ends ,but from experience most I've seen have been because of low oil and or poor maintenance 

strangely enough hers was due to the oil filter seal being faulty and drawing air instead of oil lol which is a new one on me 
use genuine filters


Pics of my build

Before




Slowly being pulled apart not difficult but somewhat time consuming



Spot the knackered rod got that hot was bone dry when pulled
After measuring with verniers determined another rod was also fubarrd as was ovalled



Knackered rod and spun shell look how much the shells have overlapped :/



All the lining gone and shell fused to the crank , took me a hammer and flat blade to separate them lol



Quick blast with her indoors dishwasher and some rebuilding later it looked like this









Ready to fit back in car

the rallyists don't rev them because they run restrictors, which necessitate a lower revving engine as they just don't make any more power if you rev them higher, they tend to make significantly more torque than most road cars too.

If you need anyone to do engine work for you I'd recommend Mansfield engines, that's where I had my 1500 reconditioned after it suffered from cadillac arrest and my E36 325 head work after it did an impression of a kettle

Personally i would be offering to pay for half the cost of a new engine minus fitting, as it was a trade sale and said so on the invoice. Or say to him that if he finds a new engine you will get it fitted "out of your own pocket".

Seems your in the minority compass in terms if being an honourable trader and trying to do the right thing , but you do have to draw the line somewere ..... If it was me I would probably offer a token gesture of maybe 6-700 quid to the buyer and send him on his way ,will probably cost the same again for labour and fitting etc etc

At least your helping the lad still and also washing your hands at same time

try on scoobynet for a running motor and if you ain't registered pm me and will pass on my login info 

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-2-0-XT-EJ205-Turbo-Engine-/221258954586?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ASubaru&hash=item33840fb75a

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/02-SUBARU-FORESTER-TURBO-S-COMPLETE-EJ20-ENGINE-CAN-BE-HEARD-RUNNING-/281245581285?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ASubaru&hash=item417b8affe5


Both those above will fit and if you can find someone local on here that aren't hard to fit at all a competent mechanic can do it in 4-5 hrs easy 
pjust make sure you get a ej205 engine as the earlier ej20 will NOT fit as the gearbox flange is different so wont bolt up to box 

good luck with whatever you do anyway