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Nov 21, 2013 18:40:28 GMT
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Hello I thought I'd introduce my little car. She's not the prettiest thing in the world, but I think she's lovely, in a feeling sorry for the ugly kid sort of way. Car is a 1987 Reliant Scimitar 1800Ti - Galvanised chassis, plastic body work and powered by the Nissan Silvia S12 CA18ET Turbo Engine. Light weight + lots of power + RWD = lots of fun She's gone through quite alot of work to get her to this stage, which is all documented in my blog. I don't know how much I'm allowed to copy/duplicate in here? Mechanically she's had the following so far: New brakes inc full caliper rebuilds New suspension New interior Little bit of engine work All the electrics sorted - 25 year old british electrics are not good probably alot more that I've forgotten over the last 18 months Here she is: This is the CA18ET in it's lightweight home
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1987 Reliant Scimitar SS1 1800Ti - The turbo one / '92 Hymer B534 / '98 Suzuki TL1000R
spongehuk.wordpress.com/ - My blog on all my toys
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Nov 21, 2013 18:53:02 GMT
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Perfect love these and a cracking combination of car and chassis
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Nov 21, 2013 21:43:16 GMT
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I've never driven one but would like to one day. The CA18ET engine was standard in some of these wasn't it? Must be scarily fast!
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oakesy
Part of things
Posts: 305
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Nov 21, 2013 21:49:08 GMT
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Good to see another Scimitar coming over from Scimitarweb Yes, the ET was standard in around 300 SS1s and they're pretty quick (they'll waste pretty much any modern hot hatch off the line and in the bends.) The engines actually produce more power in a Scim compared to the Nissans because the exhaust is much less restrictive. Most SS1 Tis were about 145bhp from the factory - and very easily and cheaply tweaked to get 175
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Last Edit: Nov 21, 2013 21:49:28 GMT by oakesy
'66 Scimitar Coupe Straight Six in no Paint '74 Scimitar GTE in Yellow '71 Jaguar XJ6 in Blue '76 Scimitar GTE '87 Scimitar Turbo Previous- '87 Scimitar SS1 Turbo, '75 Triumph Toledo, '86 VW Scirocco, '93 Scimitar Sabre, '85 Scimitar SS1, '76 Scimitar GTE, '71 Scimitar GTE
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greeny
Part of things
Posts: 119
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Nov 21, 2013 21:59:41 GMT
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Will be a sub group soon if any more come over lol
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Nov 22, 2013 15:29:44 GMT
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It's no Scimitar - that be an SS1.
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oakesy
Part of things
Posts: 305
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Nov 22, 2013 15:45:37 GMT
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Scimitar SS1 (small sports 1)
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'66 Scimitar Coupe Straight Six in no Paint '74 Scimitar GTE in Yellow '71 Jaguar XJ6 in Blue '76 Scimitar GTE '87 Scimitar Turbo Previous- '87 Scimitar SS1 Turbo, '75 Triumph Toledo, '86 VW Scirocco, '93 Scimitar Sabre, '85 Scimitar SS1, '76 Scimitar GTE, '71 Scimitar GTE
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tenman
Part of things
m00000000000
Posts: 899
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Nov 22, 2013 16:22:59 GMT
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I like these little things... CA18ET is the perfect choice of engine for them too...
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RWD Fanatic...
2003 BMW 320d Wagon (getting old and boring) 1996 Mini Kensington (SWMBO's)
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greeny
Part of things
Posts: 119
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Nov 22, 2013 18:29:34 GMT
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I like these little things... CA18ET is the perfect choice of engine for them too... don't suppose you fancy a potential det project do you?
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Nov 22, 2013 18:51:23 GMT
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Perfect love these and a cracking combination of car and chassis Thanks I've never driven one but would like to one day. The CA18ET engine was standard in some of these wasn't it? Must be scarily fast! Standard in about 300 of a total of 1507 produced. I dunno about scarily fast, I'd call it pokey .... my Suzuki TL1000R is scarily fast Good to see another Scimitar coming over from Scimitarweb Yes, the ET was standard in around 300 SS1s and they're pretty quick (they'll waste pretty much any modern hot hatch off the line and in the bends.) The engines actually produce more power in a Scim compared to the Nissans because the exhaust is much less restrictive. Most SS1 Tis were about 145bhp from the factory - and very easily and cheaply tweaked to get 175 I don't mind coming over here as I have interests outside of Scimitars and there are some gorgeous motors on here.... so far I've had to stop myself buying about 5 cars in the for sales section lol. It's no Scimitar - that be an SS1. No it be a Scimitar, Reliant droped the SS1 designation for the 1800Ti I like these little things... CA18ET is the perfect choice of engine for them too... I like it alot too and love how it's bolted together out of 5 different manufacturers parts bins Ford Triumph Vauxhall Austin Rover Nissan don't suppose you fancy a potential det project do you? I don't .... to scary for me
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1987 Reliant Scimitar SS1 1800Ti - The turbo one / '92 Hymer B534 / '98 Suzuki TL1000R
spongehuk.wordpress.com/ - My blog on all my toys
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tenman
Part of things
m00000000000
Posts: 899
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Nov 22, 2013 20:33:30 GMT
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nah, if you want an uprated S-Chassis engine the SR20DET is the way forward, CA18DET has big end bearings made of chocolate... ...
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RWD Fanatic...
2003 BMW 320d Wagon (getting old and boring) 1996 Mini Kensington (SWMBO's)
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greeny
Part of things
Posts: 119
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Nov 22, 2013 21:34:29 GMT
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nah, if you want an uprated S-Chassis engine the SR20DET is the way forward, CA18DET has big end bearings made of chocolate... ... There you go forge the way with the car I have for sale
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Nov 23, 2013 14:06:42 GMT
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I don't know how much I'm allowed to copy/duplicate in here? i personally "allow you" to copy ALL !!
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Nov 23, 2013 17:19:37 GMT
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Well it all started back in September 2012 when I got a bit carried away on a popular auction site. I’ve gone and bought a car to get some wind in the hair fun on all these sunny days. Its a Reliant Scimitar SS1 1800Ti first registered in 1987 The car will need a bit of work to become useable once again, it does start and drive, but having being parked for a while, things have tended to deteriate. A brief description of the jobs I know about: Headlight wire contacts need cleaning for the pop up motors, There is a pin hole in the turbo cooling pipe, only leaks when hot. The doors need adjustment as they sag and the door latches don't alighn properly. Both interior and exterior require work. ie a re-spray ideally. door cards, seats and carpet are all showing their age. There are a few good points, The engine runs lovely, and its extremely quick! new tyres on the front, new manifold gasket for last mot as it was leaking. Also cames with spare headlights, An optional soft top thrown in ( needs minor repair). The car does have a galvanised chassis. The engine is a genuine factory fitment, an 1800 turbo, producing 135 hp, a top speed of 126mph, and 0 – 60 in 7.6 seconds! formerly used in the Nissan Silvia. These little cars are becoming very rare. With a total of 1507 ss1 cars ever produced, only 500 were of the 1800ti model. These are the pictures the original owner had posted up and it looked quite sweet. It took all day saturday to get it picked up. First we had to pick the hire trailer up from Telford and then drive the 130ish miles to Somerset to collect the car. Car starts on the button everytime and drives great (if a little noisy), but the interior needs a little work and as I’m 6’3 I’m going to have to make myself a little more room in there to be 100% comfortable. Here she is on the back of the trailer getting ready to go home where it looks a bit rougher than the orginal photos It even had a tow bar fitted??? Gave the Scimitar its first wash since it reached its new resting place and its given me the ability to check the state of all the panels and their fit not that these are well known for their well fitting panels. Nose cone & light panel – Don’t appear fitted correctly, so I’ll need to remove them and refit. There are some chips in the paint that I can touch up if I can get some matching paint and a couple of holes drilled in the light panel that with we think might have been a bodge to attach the nose at some point. Front lights – all a bit rough and will need some work to bring them up to an acceptable standard. Bonnet – Very badly heat damaged and could even have been damaged by a small engine fire. On top of that damage someone has has a very bad go at painting it and there appears to be 4 different colours of paint, some of it peeling, some of it cracking. I’ll need to sand this back and repaint the whole bonnet and I may need to put a new layer of glass on the underside aswell. Front Wings – n/s wing is in good condition and fitted well. o/s wing is in good condition, but fitted badly and will need removing and refitting. Doors – Both doors have dropped, have chips, quater lights are rotten & rubbers shot. I’ll need to remove and rebuild both doors. Hard Top – Good condition generally, but will need repainting and a new head lining. Boot – Good condition and well fitted. Rear wings – both in great condition Rear bumper – great condition Rear lights – great condition
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1987 Reliant Scimitar SS1 1800Ti - The turbo one / '92 Hymer B534 / '98 Suzuki TL1000R
spongehuk.wordpress.com/ - My blog on all my toys
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Nov 23, 2013 17:26:11 GMT
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As we are having a good day weather wise we took the chance to do a litle work on the car, check out some of the electricals and the running gear. We took the hard top off so we check out the state of the soft top and other bits and pieces. As you can see the t-cut and polishing cloth are ready to go. So while I jacked the car up, I put Jack to work with the t-cut and polish on the back end of the car. It’s amazing how good an ethusiastic 14yr old and some t-cut can clean up the paint on a 25 year old plastic car. So I started having a poke around under the bonnet and apart from the dodgy wiring for the crapy old Sparkrite alarm, it doesn’t look too bad under there. After removing the spare wheel, I seem to have found some Spax adjustable shocks … made me smile did that. The roof doesn’t look too bad, only a couple of small holes that have been badly repaired, a small 2 inch rip at the bottom that should stitch up ok and it’s going to need all it’s press studs replacing. Started checking through all the electricals and amazingly we didn’t find anything too scary. Indicators / Hazards – One bulb out, but the rest work great, the relay is fine and the hazard lights also work. Lights – Don’t pop up very well, but once they’re up they all work, side lights are fine. Brake lights – Fine Interior lights – None are working, so I’m going to have to get the multimeter out and check all the door switches, bulbs, fuses and that I have continuity in the wiring. Horn – still working Wiper – Well it sort of moved, but very slowly. Going to have to check, clean and grease the linkages/motor. Radio/Speakers – Radios working fine, but I’ve only got one speaker. Going to have to remove it and refit it correctly and buy some new speakers. Heater – The heater blower works, but we didn’t get the car upto tempurature to see if it actually blows warm. I won a set of wheels on ebay … sight unseen, curse word description and no photos Size: 6×15″ Stud pattern: 4×100 ET: Unknown Tires: 195/50×15 Cost: £67.50 + some diesel to go pick them up. Obviously they need a clean up and I need to measure the ET to make sure they’ll fit correctly, but they’re not that bad considering the price, none of them are badly kerbed and they all have a decent ammount of tread left on them. I suppose the moral of the story is that as a seller if your advertising something on ebay you’ll get a better price if you bother to take proper photos and create a proper decription. As a buyer you can pick up some bargains if your willing to take a chance.
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1987 Reliant Scimitar SS1 1800Ti - The turbo one / '92 Hymer B534 / '98 Suzuki TL1000R
spongehuk.wordpress.com/ - My blog on all my toys
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Nov 23, 2013 17:31:58 GMT
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Saturday morning we finally managed to get the Caravan into storage and therefore freed the space on the driveway so that the Scimitar could come home and work could start in earnest. The drive back highlighted a few things too us. First and foremost, its bloody brilliant fun too drive. The turbo goes weeeeeee and the waste gate goes hahahahahahaha. Secondly it didn’t set on fire, but the passenger had a fire extinguisher in his hand all the way just to be on the safe side. The suspension could probably do with new springs as it seems a little low and soft (especially with 2 6ft+ chaps in it). It could also cause problems once I fit the 15” wheels with 195/50R15 tyres I’ve got for the car. The brake light switch will need sorting. Once back on the drive we started doing a few of the minor jobs. Spoiler – We removed the spoiler to look at the damage it had done to the boot lid. The previous owner had fitted the spoiler, but not fitted any bracing to the boot lid and due to this the weight of the spoiler had split the boot lid at both mounting points. Alarm – Andy removed the old Sparkrite alarm in preparation for fitting the new system with central locking motors and dual zone microwave sensor. This involved removing the fuse box which promptly disintegrated due to corrosion. Boot lock – Shaun adjusted the boot so it locked properly. Scot – pulled the radio out and then fitted it upside down. So we’ve picked the coldest day of the year so far to start working on the car properly. We charged the battery last night, I was happy that even in the icy cold it started first time this morning and after a while the heater was blowing out warm air into the cabin. Once we’d got the engine warn we decided to change the spark plugs out for some new ones, suffice to say I don’t know how the car was starting with the old ones that were in there as the gaps were nearly 3mm on each plug. I don’t think the old plugs had been changed for a very long time. The headlights have been a bit dodgey ever since we got the car and it was time to take them out and repair them correctly on the bench. Upon turning the lights on the N/S headlight would raise all the way under it’s own power, but the O/S light would only come up about 1/2 way and we’d have to manually move it into the fully up position so the headlight would turn on. When we turned them off the N/S light would stay up and the O/S light would lower all the way, if we started moving the N/S light it would then lower all the way under it’s own power. Looks a bit different with no front end on it. The headlights are out and ready for cleaning and rebuilding, lots of cheap crappy blue connectors to remove. I’ll have to clean, paint and sort out the wiring with some solder & heat shrink. Jack loves his new car
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1987 Reliant Scimitar SS1 1800Ti - The turbo one / '92 Hymer B534 / '98 Suzuki TL1000R
spongehuk.wordpress.com/ - My blog on all my toys
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Nov 23, 2013 17:50:13 GMT
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Not a lots happened for a while due to the weather, but I have been collecting parts. Thanks to scimjim for the alloy fuse box mount & Reliant-Reviver for the front springs. Other parts I've got RSSOC SS1 Service manual New trackrod ends New anti roll bar links I need to get new bushes for the wishbones, but I've not decided on standard or poly yet New pads, fitting kit, caliper seals, caliper pistons ... I'll get the braided lines when money allows K&N air filter Washer bag & motor DAB radio - so I can have some tunes Newer carpet set in better condition picked up a pair of seats to fit, they're a bit tight, but with some modifications I should get them in fine. I've started stripping the front end down and removed the old knackered interior. Neither headlight was working correctly, one was really slow the other wasnt raising and lowering without assistance. I've found one was seized and the other has problems with the limiters on the motors, but as I have 4 complete units I'm sure I can get a working pair out of them. Spoilers off at the back as I work on the boot to fix the damage thats been done by its poor fitting. New logos for the rear have been produced, by a friend, ready for when I respray it. I think he's missed a full stop at the end, but as they were FOC I can't really complain and finally it now has a new cover to keep the weather off, so I can work on it regardless of what the great british summer throws at us. Unfortunatly the gazebo blew away We'd removed the dashboad previously to allow us to get at the wiper motor unit. Once I had it on the bench I set about stripping and cleaning it, but unfortunatly it still didn't have enough power to move the blade across the screen. So back onto the bench and I had to strip the motor down and replace the bushes, but that seems to have fixed it and now after refitting it to the car I have fully functioning wipers. The great thing about having the wipers working again is that I can refit the dash. The car had a bit of a leak on the left hand side which meant that the footwell was filling up with an inch of water everytime it rained, this was buggering up the carpets. We managed to trace the leak to the top of the A pillar and a little bit of silicon sealer in the gap has stopped the leak. After sealing the leak we were able to remove the old knackered carpet and fit a newer one in good condition. Old carpet was in a bit of a state: New carpet fitted, dash back in and Cobra seats trial fitted for size: View from the drivers side: I think the red & black leather seats look quite good when they're in the car: We've dug the soft top out of the garage to see what sort of state it was in... not good, I need a new roof at some point:
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1987 Reliant Scimitar SS1 1800Ti - The turbo one / '92 Hymer B534 / '98 Suzuki TL1000R
spongehuk.wordpress.com/ - My blog on all my toys
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Nov 23, 2013 18:01:41 GMT
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I'd like to start by apologising for the large update. I haven’t been keeping this as up to date as I wanted to, but I am continuing to work on the car and get jobs done as and when I get time. So the cars not being ignored, it’s just taking a little longer than I would have liked, but there has been a lot going on and I feel that am I am actually getting somewhere now and the car is starting to come together into a vehicle I'd be happy to drive and show people what’s so special about it. Electrical work - GeneralGosh these 25 year old British electrics are a bit shocking, especially after being abused with scotch locks and other bodged wiring over that time. I have spent a lot of my time tracing wiring problems and fixing them. It’s still not finished yet as I think I’m only about 85% of the way through getting the wiring up to scratch for an MOT. Head lightsMy car is unfortunately fitted with the dim dip system and I had problems with both headlights going up and down and staying on also the indicator stalk was faulty and wouldn’t stay in position. I bought a decent 2nd hand indicator stalk from a MK1 Metro VP only to find that the loom connector was different, so I had to chop it up and solder the connector from the old unit. To get the headlights working has been great fun, involving the wiring diagram and full trace of all the wiring and relays, replacement of one of the headlamp mechanisms, replacement of the headlight wiring connectors, rebuild both headlight lift motors (1 needed brushes the other needed the limiter switch changing), but after all this I now have two fully working headlights that raise and fall on demand and can cycle through all the required modes (dim, dip & main) Aux lightsNew units purchased, but can I get these darn things to work, can I curse word. It’s a light, it turns on when you put power to it and it’s earthed… IT CAN’T BE THAT HARD!!! Ignition switch / steering lockOnly a couple of minor issues with this, but they would be enough for it to fail it’s MOT. The wiring on the back the switch was more of the bodged variety and the fact that the steering lock didn’t work were enough to necessitate it getting change. Not much to this job, but to Dremel the old bolts out and fit and connect the new switch. Thanks to scimitarcars for providing this. RadioI thought it would be cool to try one of these new-fangled DAB radios in my little scim. I managed to source a cheap (£30) DAB CD MP3 head unit. Obviously changing a radio isn’t that hard a job, unless the previous owner has hacked the loom behind the dashboard to do his installation. Cue lots of swearing and lots of soldering to repair the loom and fit the new radio. The new radios in and working, stores it’s settings when the ignitions off and sounds most excellent, but as ever there is one minor issue… the aerial has a magnetic mount and unfortunately with these plastic cars there’s nowhere to blinking stick it. Roll barI removed the roll bar and all its mounting hardware to give it a refresh. I gave Jack some sandpaper and the roll bar and asked him to remove the rust. He took this to mean remove every last trace of the rust and it took him nearly 4 days of sanding to get a nice smooth finish across the whole bar. Once he'd finished, we zinc primed it and spray it gloss black. While jack was working his magic on the roll bar I set about cleaning up the rusty mounting hardware. I soaked all the rusty bolts and mounting equipment in apple cider vinegar for 24 hours and was amazed at the results, it all looks like new now. Engine workThe car has been running what I would call really badly. It was difficult to start (loose wiring on the ignition switch didn't help), wouldn't rev, misfiring and producing some smoke... not great so time for a full going over on the engine. New Parts fitted: Bosch S4 battery Bosch spark plugs Oil & filter Distributer Cap & rotor arm Fresh fuel & Injector cleaner To remove the oil I bought a Pela 6000 oil extractor. This is a brilliant piece of kit, you feed a hose down the dip stick tube and just suck all the old oil out, makes oil changes really quick & easy. No more messing around on the floor. After this it was time to set the valve clearances which means taking the rocker cover off. Easier said than done as the pipe from the turbo to the inlet needs to be removed. The front cross member also needs removing to allow access to the crank pulley so I can turn the engine while setting the clearances. With all this removed and access to the top of the engine I was able to check the condition of the cam shafts and was quite amazed at their condition for 116k miles, they are showing no wear and are perfectly smooth with no lips on any of the lobes. After setting the clearances on each valve to 0.3mm it was time to put everything back together. It was at this point I realised that the front cross member was damaged and would need replacing, one of the mounting lugs on the front of it had been snapped off. I'm now on the hunt for a replacement cross member. With everything reassembled it was time to try starting the engine.... boom! It started first turn of the key, with no smoke and purrs like a kitten, revs freely and the only audible noise from the engine now is the ticking of the fuel injectors. We ran the engine up to temperature and I'm happy that everything worked as expected, all the water pipes were warm, the temp needle stayed in the middle of the gauge and the fan cut in and out perfectly. Rear springs/DrumsWhile the rear shocks were working ok and not leaking they did look appallingly rusty and when a set of shocks & springs in reasonable condition appeared on eBay I couldn't resist. I also couldn't resist cleaning up the drums and giving them a little bit of shiny red paint to brighten them up a little. Old N/S Shock and its replacement Old O/S Shock and its replacement New shocks in place, brake drums cleaned up and painted red The view with the wheel on... yes I need to clean the inner arches
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1987 Reliant Scimitar SS1 1800Ti - The turbo one / '92 Hymer B534 / '98 Suzuki TL1000R
spongehuk.wordpress.com/ - My blog on all my toys
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Nov 23, 2013 18:13:41 GMT
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1 year anniversaryI know it's a month late, but I've had the car over a year now. Still love working on it and I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel with regards to getting the car MOT'd and back in use. Some of the work hasn't been required to get the car an MOT, but I've wanted to do to get the car in a state where I'd be happy to use it. Once it's got an MOT on it I can then look at getting the bodywork sorted properly. More purchases this monthBoot Lid in great condition with no holes or cracks £3.50 Picked up a bonnet for 99p and it fitted in the boot of the car ... bargain Ok the door is a load of rubbish, but it does have a good 1/4 light frame, electric window mechanism and a decent door lock mechanism. Once I’ve stripped this down I can then start building up my decent doors with the electric windows, electric mirrors and remote central locking. New Hood & cover in perfect condition, not a single rip, hole or split seam. The only thing missing from it is the press studs across the back and these have now been ordered. Seats in poor condition - bought these as the work required to get the Cobras to fit was too great and was going to cost too much. So I bought a cheap pair of SS1 seats that will allow me to get the car MOT'd easier. They do need the bases recovering, but even in this poor condition they are better than the seats that were in the car when I bought it. RivnutsWhat a brilliant invention these things are. I've bought 50 M5 Rivnuts, an insertion tool and a drill bit to make the holes. Number platesIt's amazing what a set of clean modern number plates can do for the look of an old car. FixingsLot's of fiddly little bits that don't deserve their own entries, but help make the car up: New window winder handles Strobe light to set the timing New black press studs for the hood Door/boot pin switches Screws & caps for interior fixings Boot painting & fittingWe took the plastic decals off and sanded the boot smooth and then fired a coat of high build primer over the top. Once it had dried off we gave it a guide coat and then set about sanding it smooth. Jack loves Sanding Getting there with a nice smooth finish across 1/2 of the boot We decided to paint it in Ford Radiant Red, but unfortunately I rushed the final top coat of paint and managed to curse word it up by not paying attention or taking my time. I have fitted it to the car as it will be water proof unlike the old boot lid. Once the weather improves I can start working on getting every panel sprayed and looking nice. Back endWith the rivnuts I was able to rethread all the holes on the rear armature and the fixings for the rear bumper Today I was bored of tracing electrical problems so I decided to tackle some of the more fun work on the front of the car. It looked like this when I started. The boot on the track rod end is split and the rubbers in the anti roll bar drop link are starting to split. The brakes are sticking and not perforning very well, but both brake discs are actually in very good condition. I have purchased two new brake discs, but i've decided not to fit them at the moment as these disc will bed in fine. I fitted new trackrod ends and antiroll bar drop links because as you can see the old ones were a bit knackered mmmm shiny It's then time to sort the brakes. The calipers seals needed replacing, the pistons were corroded, the pads contaminated and the brake fluid needed changing. I've been collecting the following parts over the last year: 8 x Aluminium caliper pistons 8 x Caliper seals 6 x Bleed nipples Pagid fast road brake pads Pad fitting kit & brake fluid Everything back together and time for 3 way brake bleeding Moved to the other side of the car. Changed the track rod end & anti roll bar drop link. The caliper was looking a litte sorry for itself The pistons and seals were a bit knackered Lots of rubber to fit Now thats starting to look a little better All back together and time for bleeding The brake fluid was a bit past it's sell by date Dump valve fitted This is what the dump valve now sounds like ... ok it's a bit childish, but it sounds ace going PPSSSSHHHH!!!!!
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1987 Reliant Scimitar SS1 1800Ti - The turbo one / '92 Hymer B534 / '98 Suzuki TL1000R
spongehuk.wordpress.com/ - My blog on all my toys
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Nov 23, 2013 18:42:02 GMT
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After much swearing and burning of skin and skinning of knuckles I now have a full set of working lights
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1987 Reliant Scimitar SS1 1800Ti - The turbo one / '92 Hymer B534 / '98 Suzuki TL1000R
spongehuk.wordpress.com/ - My blog on all my toys
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