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Wow, love that colour! Interested to see how you get on with this coating, need to get all the arms and frame done on the Toledo and not keen on powder coat die to tendancy to chip in these areas. Thanks I can find out the place that did it if you need, a colleague of mine at AML took them for me. The place that did the coating is Hanman Surface Technology in Gloucester. www.hanman-surfacetechnology.co.uk/info-page/home.aspxThe parts went together well and we didn't notice them getting chipped/scratched during assembly, but i will reserve 100% judgement until its been underneath a running car. Ultimately, at the moment i would say its not worth making the trip to Gloucester to get stuff done if you have a good/reputable powder coater you already use. Unless you're nearby/don't mind the trip/don't mind sending stuff to them.
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If you want them to last I would look at getting the parts zinc sprayed first, then either powder coating or a good quality epoxy paint, that way if it does get chipped it will self heal rather than corrosion spread under the topcoat.
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Mar 22, 2022 16:22:32 GMT
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Hello All! I hope you're ok Another update for you all, roughly 7 months after the previous one in 'real time' back in 2019.... Assembling the subframe.... Liberal application of copper grease! imgur.com/ZWYr8qE^ | | | CLICK ME! We did this study to answer some questions about whether the balljointed rear axle was going to limit the motion. We built the rear axle up and fitted it to the shell over the pit. We didn't fit the spring/damper assemblies. We then articulated the suspension throughout its full available range of motion. It turns out that the limiting factor of the assembly's motion is the bodyshell, with it coming into contact with the wheelarches on both sides. Thus, proving that the balljoints and spherical bearings do not limit the motion or bind the assembly. looking snazzy.... SHE'S A ROLLER! The next steps are to start thinking about the interior, fitting the fuel tank, thinking about where fuel lines will go etc. Remember this? And these? That was alot of rivets..... The next step was vinyl roof fitment..... More to come soon..... Thanks, Pete
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Mar 29, 2022 20:37:16 GMT
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Well hello there all, I hope you are all doing well. Alot has happened since the last time I updated this, this update comes almost exactly a year after the previous one in real time. Progress has been slower than i'd like, owing to an unexpected job redundancy, unemployment, pandemic, new job(but furloughed) and a house move. All within the last 9 months! tow strap fitted. i'll probably cable tie it the valence or tuck it inside so it doesnt flap about. fuel tank fitment, and various thinking about routing of fuel pipes and mounting of pumps.(more on this to come soon!) radiator fitment, i think it looks great but somewhat exposed? these look great and really set off the back parcel shelf. clutch master cylinder and bottom steering column flange thingy. brake pedal, sorry about the curse word picture. removable steering wheel boss slug, and thinking about where to position it on the column so I could still reach the indicator stalks etc. steering knuckle, i may replace this with a forged one once i get the chance. the original triumph one doesnt give me alot of confidence! steering wheel fitted, this was quite a proud moment. and to top it off, the steering is very light considering it has a quick rack fitted(3 turns lock to lock) Let me know if you have any questions! Thanks, Pete
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 488
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Mar 30, 2022 11:59:22 GMT
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Excellent colour choice. I'm sure your steering will weight up a lot when you put an engine in. My Avenger was in muscle pulling territory with a 2.7 turn rack.
Should you not have a rubber donut in that steering joint? I can't see how that lower joint will be able to articulate.
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Mar 30, 2022 14:10:23 GMT
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Excellent colour choice. I'm sure your steering will weight up a lot when you put an engine in. My Avenger was in muscle pulling territory with a 2.7 turn rack. Should you not have a rubber donut in that steering joint? I can't see how that lower joint will be able to articulate. good point about the current lack of weight in the front end. we shall see where we end up with that. my dad has engineered Corsa B power assisted steering onto his car for the same reason. not sure regarding rubber donut, what you can see in that picture is no different to standard Triumph, and nothing seems to be amiss when comparing against the parts book (see below)
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Hello All, Another update, around 14 months in the future when compared with the last one. fuel pump packaging and mounting, along with fuel tank > fuel pump line fuel pump packaging along with pump > bulkhead line through bulkhead and onwards through the cabin door hinge painting a snowy picture from xmas 2020, along with roll cage fitment doors are a real struggle.... imgur.com/Dj4JzcR <<<<<<<< video!!!! it's got a face! all of these panels are bolted so can be removed easily if required..... Let me know what you think Incoming: engine, anti roll bar, washer mechanism amongst others! Thanks, Pete
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maf260
Part of things
Posts: 533
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Awesome! I absolutely love the colour.
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Apr 19, 2022 11:49:02 GMT
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Hello All, I hope you are doing well and you had a good easter! We are now very nearly up to date, with this update only a couple or three months old This post focuses on the restoration and fitment of wiper assembly and some washer bottle refurb. and a video of it working >>>>>>> imgur.com/zSySocbVarious other updates will follow shortly..... Let me know what you think! Thanks, Pete
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75swb
Beta Tester
Posts: 1,052
Club RR Member Number: 181
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Apr 19, 2022 21:42:33 GMT
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Bolting shiney parts back on is such a good feeling. Love the progress
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dazee
Part of things
Posts: 96
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Apr 20, 2022 11:27:41 GMT
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Great build and ingenuity in the whole car. I Will follow with interest to see what it's capable of on the track.
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Last Edit: Apr 20, 2022 11:28:44 GMT by dazee
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Apr 20, 2022 13:58:14 GMT
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Great build and ingenuity in the whole car. I Will follow with interest to see what it's capable of on the track. I am also intrigued to find out.... I'm hoping kerb weight will be near to 1000kg with a power of 200(ish)bhp.
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Great work Pete as always, she's looking a beaut!
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1971 Triumph Toledo 1500 Road/rally 1998 Peugeot 106 Rallye 2007 Volvo V50 T5 AWD "Sensible Daily" 1978 BMW R100RS Cafe Racer "Jägerbomb" 1979 Harley Davidson SXT trials bike 2018 Black Lab/Alsatian cross "Rocky"
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Hello All, I hope you're all well and your years are going ok. Nearly christmas now eh?! *eye roll* So, as promised, here we have an engine update and with this update, we're also pretty much up to date with current proceedings. The engine story starts when the question was asked 'what kind of power are you looking for?' At that point i hadnt really thought about it, but my main answer was that the car needs to be reliable, have good power and the engine not to cost the earth. As you will see, i have probably hit 2/3 of these objectives. Jump forward 6 or 7 years I'm at the point of needing to get the engine looked at and built. I looked around for machinists & builders, and found a chap Nr Aylesbury. He was a total legend and just the type of guy i enjoy working with. The head, block and rotating components were delivered to him in a relative state of disrepair. Largely complete but a bit unloved and definitely not in any state to go back together. apparently he managed to get this finish with water washing only. the standard valvegear was removed at this point. valves seats and guides all look fine. guides are one of the few components which are reused with the SBD camtrain. freshly skimmed, Sir? i think he only took off the very top surface, as he said that in order to get the correct compression ratio(10.5:1) he didnt have to touch the head, block or pistons. the block was washed and measured. rebore not required, just a hone and bore prep to SBDs recommendation. i also did a modification of my own. SBD recommends that the baffle plate that sits within the head be modified to prevent oil hang up in the head. This was done to SBDs diagram available on their website. Note the hashed and non hashed areas. doing this enables any oil which makes it up the breather on the side of the engine to spill back over the plate and find its way back to the bottom of the engine. expensive looking boxes started to arrive..... the crank along with all of the rotating assembly was lightened and balanced together(clutch cover plate, crank, external trigger wheel and pulley). a number of months went by with me steadily supplying him with bits, and eventually i went over and collected everything.... I was pretty damn happy with the quality of finish and standard of work, especially from a small one-man-band type outfit. the next step was to take everything up to my parents where the car lives. on the workmate whilst we cleaned and tapped out various threads. dangling...from the venerable engine crane. you probably need a fair few hands to count how many engines this has put in. fun fact: the crane originally came from a company called Micromass where my mum used to work(a long time ago now), where she used to write software for mass spectrometers. The crane was used to lift those about. back where it belongs. This felt like a watershed moment, getting it into the car. and it all became quite real all of a sudden. lots of work/time/money/effort to get to this point thats all part of the fun though! let me know what you think, along with any questions. thanks, Pete
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I like this a lot! That is what I think 😁
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I like this a lot! That is what I think 😁 Hahaha much appreciated 😜
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Hello All, A small update for you today. It has front and rear windows now. If you're wondering, side and rear windows come from Plastics for Performance. The front window is a reproduction part sourced through the Triumph Dolomite Club. www.plastics4performance.com/triumph-dolomite-lexan-window-kitthey are the standard thickness of 5mm which was an additional charge. i can do some pictures of how we fitted the side windows and made them stay in the upright position, it wasnt easy and requires bits of wood. i will do this when we build the N/S doors.
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It has been a while since the last update or since i was able to visit the car owing to a bout of Covid, amongst other things. there has been a fair amount of progress on the engine side of things, and probably enough for a post or two. i think i will leave that until its complete and ready to go back in. one thing i havent spoken about is the front anti roll bar. the standard item amounts to not much more than some piano wire so it was deemed necessary to engineer something more substantial. plates were fabricated so as to create two flat surfaces on the front of the subframe, through which to bolt some bearing carriers. the bar itself is 32mm O/D. some arms were fabricated which fit on the ends, with a through bolt holding them on. I have a sneaking suspicion that i will need to sleeve the end of the bar to prevent it wearing the hole into a circumferencial hole, but it should work well enough initially. and here is the assembly fitted to the car. that reminds me i need to find some high tensile bolts for the droplinks. more pictures and updates soon. Thanks for looking, Pete
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,832
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Not found this until today, BOOKMARKED, top stuff.
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style. Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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Not found this until today, BOOKMARKED, top stuff. good to have you Ian
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