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Oct 21, 2013 10:35:44 GMT
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It's all looking good...!!!
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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Oct 21, 2013 13:00:17 GMT
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I too could be persuaded to pop down and assist next weekend if you could do with another pair of hands(they be shakey but occasionally useful) Steve! I missed this, sorry. You must've posted while I was busy writing that big load of gibberish.. Anyway, YES! You're always welcome anyways dude, but extra hands would be awesome  You love welding, right? Dude! How are you? Away from all those fires I hope, nasty  The paint is already chosen & bought - might keep it under wraps for now tho..  I LOVE mad-bright greens, so your vote would be a good one, if I hadn't already decided that my RX7 really ought to be that kind of colour.. |
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Oct 21, 2013 14:23:10 GMT
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nice to see some updates mate  the black stuff on the floor are anti-drum mats. does a surprisingly effective job of stopping vast flat areas of steel (even ribbed) from going mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmHHHHHHHHHMMMMMMMM when you drive. if you want to replace it i can recommend the self adhesive lead-backed bitumen on-the-roll stop-leak roofing product sold at builders mechants, even homebase have it (flashband) |
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Last Edit: Oct 21, 2013 14:24:13 GMT by darrenh
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Oct 21, 2013 14:34:57 GMT
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nice to see some updates mate the black stuff on the floor are anti-drum mats. does a surprisingly effective job of stopping vast flat areas of steel (even ribbed) from going mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmHHHHHHHHHMMMMMMMM when you drive. if you want to replace it i can recommend the self adhesive lead-backed bitumen on-the-roll stop-leak roofing product sold at builders mechants, even homebase have it (flashband) Ahh that's just solved a problem for me too |
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Steve
Posted a lot
Making progress in small, easy to handle chunks of awesome
Posts: 2,038
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Oct 21, 2013 19:31:52 GMT
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Welding you say? Well luck would have it that I'm especially good at welding up 70's GM products...... |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Oct 21, 2013 20:45:10 GMT
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Welding you say? Well luck would have it that I'm especially good at welding up 70's GM products...... Wanna be my new best friend  |
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Steve
Posted a lot
Making progress in small, easy to handle chunks of awesome
Posts: 2,038
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Oct 22, 2013 21:54:27 GMT
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Welding you say? Well luck would have it that I'm especially good at welding up 70's GM products...... Wanna be my new best friend It wouldn't be smart for me to say yes to that right? |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Oct 22, 2013 22:11:46 GMT
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Wanna be my new best friend It wouldn't be smart for me to say yes to that right? Probably not |
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As EmDee will no doubt take great delight in pointing out, I'm sucking at keeping this Rekord up to date* I'm trying to get in the habit of updating this as I go LOL  So anyways, a few weeks ago steve was kind enough to follow through on this promise.. I too could be persuaded to pop down and assist next weekend if you could do with another pair of hands(they be shakey but occasionally useful) ..and in between eating healthy foodstuffs and drinking non-alcoholic beverages ( ) turned this:   Via this:    Into this:   IMMENSE! Thanks dude We ran out of time, but I finished up later on, and dressed the welds back, etc. then splashed some paint on it to protect it for now (whole car will be getting prepped & painted when it's ready). The back of that panel is accessible too, so I'll cover it all with some sort of protective gloop when it's done. Now looks like this:   Buoyed by Steve's example I had a go at the rear screen frame myself Rusty herles..  I cut bits out of the scrap car, to save me struggling to get the profile right..  Choppy, weldy, etc..  Looking better (apologies for the genuinely awful photos - my cameraphone is ass-curse word in low light)  (note HC-patented device for holding the boot hinge out of the way / embedding tinsnips in your skull) After (paint still wet, but anyways)  Mwoar (last weekends progress) in a bit.. *Rubbish Pun Count: 16 |
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Slowly, but surely this Rekord is getting there...!!!
Wonderful stuff...
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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Despite your Cavalier attitude you're doing a fine job, it would have driven me to a Nova dose....
Really sorry, I'm enjoying this thread so much, I had to join in. Top work.
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Ha! Thanks Gents Here is what I did on Sunday afternoon.. RUST  (this is the n/s rear corner, from the top of the spare wheel well going up to just below the light cluster) CAD  METAL  (actually from the side of Colonelk 's old boiler) CHOP  (rusty bit to the right left on purpose) CLEAN  (inside & out, so the MIG can penetrate properly, and hopefully nothing catches fire) FINESSE  (getting the new metal to fit the hole perfectly - trimming, bending etc..) TACK  WELD  (note bottom corner not welded) CUT  (previously left on purpose, because a weird shape to do in one piece) *some steps missing - same as above* WELD  And that was that really. Need to tidy it up on the outside a bit, but it's mostly behind the bumper, and this car will be so low you'll have to by lying down to see anything below that *Rubbish Pun Count: 16 (still, sorry!) |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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I hope no-one takes offence and this is just my opinion and I am certainly not a welding god like TonyBMW but........
Try shorter runs and a smidge more power with a bit of flattened copper behind might result in less grind back and a better penetration the welds look a little high and slightly cold
Great work and happy to see the cancer being removed
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Hi Ian - absolutely no offence taken. This is exactly why I'm 'practicing' on this amusing old heap, and sharing pictures on here, before I point a mig at something actually nice (my Mk1 Escort campervan). Any feedback / advise taken as intended and greatly appreciated.
So, I need to turn the power up on the welder? I have a tool (made by someone in the OMOC as it happens) for holding behind the weld - not sure why I didn't think to use it!
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Hi Ian - absolutely no offence taken. This is exactly why I'm 'practicing' on this amusing old heap, and sharing pictures on here, before I point a mig at something actually nice (my Mk1 Escort campervan). Any feedback / advise taken as intended and greatly appreciated. So, I need to turn the power up on the welder? Hey it's only my opinion but to me the welds are a bit cold - they are solid and I'm sure they would meet the needs of an MOT test but they are a bit worm on the top with not a lot of spread - upping the power to the next setting and doing a spot whilst moving across the joint (then just as the weld starts to cool) bang another spot next to it would result in less weld to grind back with a flatter weld - it sounds like it would take forever but if you include the grinding time in the overall time it takes to stitch in a repair it's actually quicker - especially if you want to avoid distortion when welding or grinding Have a look here at the thin metal technique and watch the video - explains it way better than I can - it's got sound so turn up the speakers and it should help a lot www.mig-welding.co.uk/thin-metal.htmI can only point you in the direction of some of the really good fabricators on here or the MIG welding forum itself which has the same atmosphere as you get here (I think so anyway) www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/I hope it helps I have a tool (made by someone in the OMOC as it happens) for holding behind the weld - not sure why I didn't think to use it! I use flattened copper Pipe or round 22mm tube sections or I have some blocks of solid copper that all help in different locations - I try to clamp behind/under the area to be welded or if I can do that have a helper hold it flat against the surface behind to be welded Pop a picture up of the tool - it sound useful and sharing is good isn't it |
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Jan 18, 2014 21:59:20 GMT
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bstardchild, thanks for that dude, good to see you t'other night I'll grab a pic of that tool tomorrow - it's a cool thing.. Today I welded up the NSR sill end. Did it in 4 pieces, and am pretty pleased with how it turned out, but didn't think to take any pics until I was done..   Updated list - crossed some off, added some more on.. (2 steps forward, etc..)  Our welder had been annoying me - cutting out & spluttering, and generally being annoying. (I may also use this as an excuse for bstardchild's observation above that my welds aren't hot enough, to take the focus away from my lack of abilities) I noticed when I moved the extension that the welder was plugged into that the welder would cut out, so I asked TAB's resident retired electrician Colonelk to have a look at it. Here is what he found (& subsequently fixed)..  To quote the Elk himself: "Don't abuse your plugs!" Tomorrow I plan to weld up a rusty hole..
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Steve
Posted a lot
Making progress in small, easy to handle chunks of awesome
Posts: 2,038
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Still loving your work |
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Jan 20, 2014 15:52:16 GMT
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Thanks Steve - lemme know if you fancy another trip down Feb 1st has been rumoured? Tomorrow I plan to weld up a rusty hole.. This one, as it happens..  Eeeeep   Record making Rekord*  * somestepsmissing*   I'm mot particularly displeased with that tbh. It is hardly the prettiest repair in the world, but at least it's now solid & not rotten. I should really have taken a pic after I finished tidying and slapped some paint on to protect it.. One of the additions I wanted to make to this car was rear seat belts.. It has the mounting points already in the car, but I guess the belts weren't spec'd by the first owner when new. Unfortunately the outer mounting point (in the rear inner arch) on one side is the site of a previous (good) repair but they've not put the mount back in, and the other side looks like this:  HA! More on that later. (you can see the plastic plug in the captive strengthening plate to which the seatbelt would be bolted) The 2 in the centre are fine, as are those on the C-pillers - there is no provision for mounting the inertia reel in the boot but I've sorted that - pics next time for the N/S, seeing as I was welding in that immediate area anyway I thought I'd sort it out now.. I cut these out of Colonelk 's scrap Opel Monza.. (that's actually still attached to a bit of Monza)  Drilled out the spot-welds to free it, and drilled a hole in the N/S rear inner arch big enough to clear a seatbelt bolt..  Then glued it on with hot metal.. (note where I had the juice turned up a bit too much and blew straight through the 1st hole I welded round the outside instead, and (subsequently) welded up the hole, inside & out)  That was about it for yesterday I think (Rekord-wise) - spent some of the day helping Elk get his LC Wagon running, and tucking his Viva Coupe up to hibernate for a while Welding state of play..  TAB are planning to attend the VBOA Nats at Billing in force, so I kinda need an old Opel on the road by then! As such this is my deadline for the Rekord - Sat July 12th 2014 - 173 days / 24 weeks 5 days.. More soon! *Rubbish Pun Count: 17 |
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Jan 20, 2014 16:33:33 GMT
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omg i think i clicked on an Oldbus thread instead top work |
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Last Edit: Jan 20, 2014 16:34:38 GMT by hairnet
2001 HONDA CT110 (NOT RCV)
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Jan 20, 2014 16:44:07 GMT
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TAB invasion is on.
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You love welding, right?
The paint is already chosen & bought - might keep it under wraps for now tho.. 
I LOVE mad-bright greens, so your vote would be a good one, if I hadn't already decided that my RX7 really ought to be that kind of colour..
