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Sept 9, 2015 15:57:14 GMT
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I have thoroughly enjoyed seeing this project develop. You are truly talented -- and patient -- with the task of breathing life back into the 164. I have a 1973 164e that a friend gave to me several years ago. I will begin posting pictures as I begin the process of refurbishing it for my daughter. She loves the blue color (I'm not sure if it is the #111 that you referred to in your earlier posts), and the interior is in fairly decent condition given that it was exposed to the Texas heat for many summers before I got it - many of the plastic parts turned to powder! Anyway, your car is beautiful and is an inspiration to me and my project. Thank you for keeping such a meticulous photographic record of the rebuild.
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Sept 9, 2015 17:51:13 GMT
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Greate job! Like the chrome engine parts!
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aws
Part of things
Just smile and wave boys. Just smile and wave.
Posts: 389
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Sept 11, 2015 5:14:46 GMT
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Thanks guys for good words. And will wait for your 164 story to appear here bharrup.
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Sept 15, 2015 0:55:44 GMT
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I got onto the 164Club.org site and downloaded many of the manuals that I think I will need for my project. I need to figure out why the fuel injectors won't fire - the fuel pump is new, but it just cycles the fuel back into the tank. I hope it's something simple, but just in case, I was able to find a control module for the 164 on eBay. It should arrive in a few days - good to have a back-up if necessary. I need to replace one injector - I dropped one and broke the plastic part on the end that makes it spray out. I'll try to figure out how to get pictures uploaded, but in the meantime, you can see them on my FaceBook page under the photo album "volvo 164e project car." If you can't see them, let me know.
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aws
Part of things
Just smile and wave boys. Just smile and wave.
Posts: 389
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Sept 15, 2015 4:53:28 GMT
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I got onto the 164Club.org site and downloaded many of the manuals that I think I will need for my project. I need to figure out why the fuel injectors won't fire - the fuel pump is new, but it just cycles the fuel back into the tank. I hope it's something simple, but just in case, I was able to find a control module for the 164 on eBay. It should arrive in a few days - good to have a back-up if necessary. I need to replace one injector - I dropped one and broke the plastic part on the end that makes it spray out. I'll try to figure out how to get pictures uploaded, but in the meantime, you can see them on my FaceBook page under the photo album "volvo 164e project car." If you can't see them, let me know. When you switch on ignition, fuel pump should run for couple of seconds and then stop. You can connect the fuel pressure gauge in order to determine is there any pressure in the system. Something like this. If fuel pressure is fine, then you can lift all the injectors out of seats, but connected to the fuel rail and wiring. Then crank the engine to find out if the injectors are working or not. If not it could be due to faulty injectors or due to wiring issues. I wouldn't blame ECU at the first. You can try to operate injectors by connecting them to 3 Volts battery or similar (DO NOT use 12 volts - you can damage injectors) directly. You should hear clicking noise. If that's not happening then injector is faulty. In order to see your photos I probably need to know Facebook link where to go.
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Sept 17, 2015 16:02:26 GMT
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facebook page is under my name Blake Harrup
I have a few albums in the photos section, but the Volvo album is separately labeled.
Thanks for the input for troubleshooting the injector system! I'll get on that ASAP. I have a set of those little light things to test with as well - they go into the plug and light up when there is current.
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Sept 30, 2015 22:49:47 GMT
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Okay - I did a very "unofficial" test of the fuel injectors by hooking up a three-volt battery (two 1.5v AA taped together) to test each injector. Only the one that I had dropped made any kind of sound. Unfortunately, that is one of the ones that I know I need to replace, since the plastic cover for the tip is broken. I am experimenting with the other injectors by placing them in a turpentine "bath" in a sonic jewelry cleaner. If that works, then they should make the sound when I apply the 3v to them. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your help.
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I also did a short-and-sweet test to see if the engine would fire. I drizzled a little gasoline into the intake manifold, and had my daughter crank the engine. It sounded like my wife's Husqvarna sewing machine (at least to me). I was also relieved to see the little light that I'd attached to the #1 injector wire turn on - that tells me that (hopefully) the ECU is in working order. I got home this evening and tried the two injectors that I'd placed in the sonic cleaner, but they were still stuck. The next thing I will try is a blast of starter fluid into the injector to try and break up the gunk that is undoubtedly gumming up the works. More later.
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Not to hijack the thread but try some carb cleaner and put them, full of it, in the upright position for a day and them try firing them not with 3 Volts but the all 12V. I've cleaned some that way but not any ''old'' ones like the Volvo 164. If the car doesn't have a resistor pack for the injectors, like the Mitsubishi Evolution has, then they are good to test that way.
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Thanks Cesar for the tip! I remember doing that to the #1 injector a few years back (that is the one that I dropped while spraying carb/choke cleaner into it); I will spray the ends and allow them to soak. That should take care of it.
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I cleaned the fuel injectors to the point that they all "click" when I put the 3v battery to them. I appreciate the suggestions, guys! Next, I'll install the injectors and see if the old girl will fire up. I'm going to go ahead and use the one injector with the broken plastic tip, but I know that it may not run right. I just want to see if it starts.
If that works, then I'll flush out the coolant, change the oil and start working on the brakes.
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aws
Part of things
Just smile and wave boys. Just smile and wave.
Posts: 389
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Looking into swap my auto BW35 into M400 gearbox. Since in Latvia it is impossible to source such parts, I turned out to Sweden. Found something, but will see what the guy has and does it fits my budget. So far I know I will need:
Gearbox flywheel clutch clutch cable pedal box prop shaft definitely the rear axle ratio will not help as well.
Maybe someone has already done the thing and know what else could be needed in this conversion?
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aws
Part of things
Just smile and wave boys. Just smile and wave.
Posts: 389
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Thanks giuseppe916.
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You're welcome. My pleasure to help a Volvo fellow:) Please let me know if you need any support in Sweden. You find M410 every now and then for sale.
If you're not in a hurry I may have another option for you. I'm planning to do the opposite from what you're doing. I e swap from stick shift back to Automatic but upgraded to AW71L in my 162. Then I will sell the tranny complete with clutch case and overdrive etc. That however is after the body restauration. The car is at the workshop to be overhauled and I am not sure how long that is going to take though...
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aws
Part of things
Just smile and wave boys. Just smile and wave.
Posts: 389
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Seems all parts are gathered. More I will find out tomorrow. So next step is to get all the bits over the sea.
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aws
Part of things
Just smile and wave boys. Just smile and wave.
Posts: 389
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Feb 22, 2016 21:33:31 GMT
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Parts are at my friends place in Gothenburg. Now need to figure out transportation home. So I got: Pedals cable front part of shaft clutch flywheel M400 gearbox crossmember.
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aws
Part of things
Just smile and wave boys. Just smile and wave.
Posts: 389
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So here it comes. Yesterday I received the box full with goodies. And here it is - mighty M400. So then. It is time to strip down. Differences between BW35 and M400 propshafts. So yesterday we took of the BW35 gearbox. Installed the flywheel for the manual. All three pedals are in. There were some parts in kit that were not needed actually. Since Pedal box can be used the original one - need to drill a bit bigger hole for a clutch pedal fitment bolt. Hole for the clutch cable is already pre drilled in the firewall box. The same with gearbox cross member. It is the same as for BW35 dimension wise but metal is thinner for manual version. So to do and need list: Clutch release bearing Sealing rings for new gearbox Bearing for the gearbox input shaft
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aws
Part of things
Just smile and wave boys. Just smile and wave.
Posts: 389
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Got a nice package with necessary parts yesterday, so work continued. Clutch plate aligned Release bearing installed Clutch assembly attached Third pedal attached.
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aws
Part of things
Just smile and wave boys. Just smile and wave.
Posts: 389
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Car has been taken out for a ride. Needs some engine tuneup, but otherwise performs really good. Our Latvian Volvo Club was participating in Auto Exotic exhibition. So there was my car as well.
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