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Jan 22, 2018 16:26:33 GMT
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Always undo your torque wrench after use, leaving it done up is what damages the calibration. I always thought that as well but I was reading the blurb on a new norbar torque wrench and it explicitly stated that all tension was not to be wound out as this will degrade the calibration. I guess check manufacturer instructions on how to store them. I used to work for a high end race gearbox company and as standard all load carrying threaded entrys into an aluminium casting were fitted will hellicoils. The right size of helicoil carrys a lot more load than threading direct into ali as bigger shear area. It also means you don't destroy the threads in the casting if the stud gets removed frequently. Looking forward to hearing this roar. I checked the instructions on the new halfords one, and it says drop it back to zero, but don't go below zero. I'm gonna try and look after this one! Cost me £100! |
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Jan 22, 2018 20:50:13 GMT
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Interesting reading about torque wrench. Maybe they mean undo it but don't fully undo them - just leave a bit of tension?
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Jan 22, 2018 22:41:25 GMT
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Interesting regarding the cam timing - looking back at my photos I'm glad to see I got it right!
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Sometimes, others may not understand why you like a car so much. Sometimes, you may not even understand why you like a car so much. But none of that matters; all that matters is that you like the car, and having it makes you happy.
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having had after market cams measure a fair bit off if simply aligned with the pulley notches , to be sure of it , get out the degree disc and dial gauge .i use the pk lift on no one inlet generally.
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Jan 28, 2018 23:03:08 GMT
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Well I seem to be making hard work of this engine building lark. Again it has been a tale of two steps forward, one step back. I had rebuilt the rocker shafts, but it was bugging me that I wasn’t able to fully clean the oil oil out of the insides. Then I was walking through the lab at work and spied the ultrasonic cleaning baths. I borrowed one over the weekend and put a disassembled rocker shaft it. Quite impressed by the results. After a few minutes I started getting black oil scale floating on the surface, so it was doing something. Ultimately I put all the parts in the sonic bath in batches, then again in a tub of petrol and used pipe cleaners to get as much curse word out of them as possible. Then I put them all back together again. Bath  Crud coming off  Reassembly   Then I had to install them. Rover V8’s use hydraulic tappets or cam followers which are able to take up and allow for minor variation in pushrod length and rocker geometry etc. That’s fine if you have unskimmed heads, standard gaskets, standard cam and no wear in the rocker gear. However if you have any of the above, then the follower preload has to be checked and if out of spec, adjusted. This process isn’t described in any of the Rover manuals, but fortunately there is lots of info on the internet and the Des Hammill book. I bolted one rocker shaft on and started checking the preload using two bits of wire; one at 0.5 mm and the other at 1.5 mm (20 thou and 60 thou). The idea is you turn the cam so the base circle is on the follower and then check the distance between the underside of the internal circlip and the top of the pushrod seat. If the small 0.5 mm wire goes in, but the big 1.5 mm wire does, then its about ok. I had to shim both banks to get them somewhere close, and then for final fettling I had to swap the tappet and pushrods in pairs from cylinders that were either too slack or too tight. Got there in the end. Opinions seem to vary on how critical this is. For a pretty standard road engine its questionable whether its necessary, but ive done it anyway. Two bits of wire on the right. Shims at the bottom.    Further update regarding Radio’s. Massive thanks to Stuart at the Police Car UK club as he has managed to source a period correct Pye Whitehall radio for me. I just need to make up a bracket and fit it properly. Here it is balanced in the dash.  |
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,286
Club RR Member Number: 146
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It can't hurt doing that sort of fine fettling on tolerances really. If you can do it, then why not? You're the one that's going to appreciate the work you've done and it must give you a nice warm smug feeling knowing it's done right.
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Nice warm smug feeling and a sore lower back, as it involved lots of bending over and poking stuff.
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Davey
Posted a lot
Resident Tyre Nerd.
Posts: 2,348
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Jan 29, 2018 10:44:18 GMT
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Nice warm smug feeling and a sore lower back, as it involved lots of bending over and poking stuff. Perhaps we should be worrying about your affection for this SD1? Love how clean the engine is, its going to look better than factory. |
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K11 Micra x3 - Mk3 astra - Seat Marbella - Mk6 Escort estate - B5 Passat - Alfa 156 estate - E36 compact
Mk2 MR2 T-bar - E46 328i - Skoda Superb - Fiat seicento - 6n2 Polo - 6n polo 1.6 - Mk1 GS300
EU8 civic type S - MG ZT cdti - R56 MINI Cooper S - Audi A3 8p - Jaguar XF (X250) - FN2 Civic Type R - Mk2 2.0i Ford Focus - Mercedes W212 E250
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Jan 29, 2018 11:20:54 GMT
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Nice warm smug feeling and a sore lower back, as it involved lots of bending over and poking stuff. Perhaps we should be worrying about your affection for this SD1? Love how clean the engine is, its going to look better than factory. I do have and sd1 sickness, however i am happy to say that i haven't quite reached that level of deviancy! |
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Got myself some two tone air horns. Well quite a few actually. I got a brand new pair of FIAMM horns off the ever helpful Stuart at the Police Car UK club. Andy L (who has 2 Police sd1's!) lent me a box of old air horns. This week i bought a FIAMM compressor and airhorns from ebay, that came off an old ambulance.  I plugged compressor into a battery and it was working...well sort of. Lots of crackling noises and it was only turning pretty slowly, so it sounded a bit gummed up. It was also covered in grime and didnt look like it have ever been looked at. So opened it up to clean it and check the motor. Never had one of these before, but they are quite simple. There is a motor at the bottom, which drives a compressor and than above that there is a reduction gearbox which drives a plate with slots in it. The slots pass over the outlet ports which then direct the air to the horns. The motor was in good shape. The brushes have loads of life left in them, but they were contaminated with grime and grease and the commutator was also gummed up. So cleaned all of that. Then just continued with the cleaning really. Quite therapeutic. Had two little filters inside which were totally crudded up so they got the treatment. Thankfully the compressor part was whistle clean. No scoring at all.        Then plugged back into the battery. Much better. A crisper more positive sound now.  Then i experimented with different combinations of horns to try and make the correct 1980's sound. Ive been looking online for videos of 1980's two tones, but its actually quite hard to pin down exactly how they should have been. Anyway i narrowed it down to three combinations. I have recorded them and put them on the youtube video below. I think set number three sounds the best, but still not sure. |
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Great work as always.
No.1 sounds flat to me, no.2 sounds like a French siren but no.3 sounds closest to what I think it should be.
Keep up the good work !
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Probably no use whatsoever, but many years back I was pulled by a Cheshire Police 3.0L Capri and number three sounds awfully familiar!  |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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No'3 sounds closest to what I remember from my time in Traffic back in the mid 80's before everything went over to wailers
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No. 3 sound about right to me No'3 sounds closest to what I remember from my time in Traffic Bloody hell, that Capri must have got about!  |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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No. 3 sound about right to me No'3 sounds closest to what I remember from my time in Traffic Bloody hell, that Capri must have got about! Mine was in a 3.0i Senator A - I actually owned the car later when it had been retired from active duty |
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Number 3. Spot on.
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Rover Metro - The TARDIS - brake problems.....Stored
Rover 75 - Barge
MGZTT Cdti 160+ - Winter Hack and Audi botherer...
MGF - The Golden Shot...Stored
Project Minion........
Can you see the theme?
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two votes here for No3 even made the dog go to the door!
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retired with too many projects!
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Number three it is then. Ive been watching more videos online today, of ambulances and fire engines from the 80's. Can find very few of police cars as most had switched to electric sirens by then. I'm glad mine has air horns. There is something a little more raw with air horns. Plus i think you get more of a Doppler effect as the vehicle passes. Could be imagining it, need someone who knows about sound to answer that one. Perhaps its just the videos ive been watching.
Ill post up some photos later, but basically i have painted the lower part of the compressor and the mount in black enamel. The top part i just polished up a tiny bit. Didnt go crazy, though i might at a later day.
Also screwed the oil pick up and windage tray to the bottom of the engine. I have also set it to tdc on number 1, so it is in the correct place for fitting the dizzy etc. Much easier to do that where i can see the bottom of the piston and check it is actually at the top of its travel.
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