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Hey guys,
Was looking at some TR7's on the internet today and saw that they go pretty cheap. This has givven me ideas. Anyway, are they any good? What I hear is that they are curse word (same goes for all Triumphs) but this is probably a biased opinion.
Also, the pcd tees me off, as you can't get any decent rims easy.
kgo
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Last Edit: May 18, 2012 1:47:14 GMT by r31mark
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They are much much better when they've been rebuilt - you'll find the scope for improving the build quality is large. The Rot can be tremendously fatal, on the other hand, donor cars are cheap to come by, you may be able to buy a couple and mash them together into one good one. Engines were simple, but can run beautifully when set-up well (plenty of room for a V8 by the way), and easy to rebuild. Interior parts can sometimes be a headache to get hold of.
Classic wedge shape, rear wheel drive, stinks of the 70's, and rare on the roads. I LIKE IT!
The later TR7's had a higher build quality than the early ones and also had 5 speed boxes.
PCD isn't a problem at all, there are so many conversions out there available it's just not even something that needs be thought about when buying a car these days.
Hope that helps a little. It would be good to see the old TR7's popping up again. Errrrm don't take yourself to seriously in it though lol ;D
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So many conversion kits available huh? where can I see some of these kits on the internet?
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That's awesome!
Other ideas I have are ITBs. Also how do you lower these cars? are there mod parts available? And I'd probably run like 14 or 15 x8 wheels If I bought one, these might stick out right?
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Very true Monkeyt, TR7s are not as bad as made out especially later ones, although there are a few things worth thinking about.. don't FOR THE LOVE OF GOD get a convertible!!.... later the better...lose the crappy troublesome piece of "O" series snot from under the bonnet, and the cog-swapper too for that matter!!... if you would like it "in keeping " then the best is a 2.0 8v from a cavalier/calibra on a manta Getrag box or a 318 beemer motor/box combo....or you could go Bonkers, ive seen one with a skyline engine in, several Yank V8s, one being "scoobyed", BMW V8, more sedate but still bonkers 2.0 16-valve Turbo from a rover 800 (better engine than they're credited for..) oh, and fit a better steering rack too!! ... i like them, its just that others believe the myths so they are cheap...
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Mk2 Golf GTi 8v '91
Rover SD1 6.0 V12 Jag power.
" It will fit, Trust me!"
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I'd recommend maximum of 14x6 but no larger, It's your project of course and I'm not trying to make it something you don't want, but it will handle very nicely on that size (the TR7 I drove did anyway)
Now,.. tell me you're going to get one and paint it BROWN. thanks. ;D
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Very true Monkeyt, TR7s are not as bad as made out especially later ones, although there are a few things worth thinking about.. don't FOR THE LOVE OF GOD get a convertible!!.... later the better...lose the crappy troublesome piece of "O" series snot from under the bonnet, and the cog-swapper too for that matter!!... if you would like it "in keeping " then the best is a 2.0 8v from a cavalier/calibra on a manta Getrag box or a 318 beemer motor/box combo....or you could go Bonkers, ive seen one with a skyline engine in, several Yank V8s, one being "scoobyed", BMW V8, more sedate but still bonkers 2.0 16-valve Turbo from a rover 800 (better engine than they're credited for..) oh, and fit a better steering rack too!! ... I like them, its just that others believe the myths so they are cheap... O series? No. Triumph Slant 4. Same as the 1850 one, just enlarged 144cc and given better breathing. I think Jenvey make an ITB kit for the engines too. But frankly, I wouldn't bother. CA18/SR20 would do lovely. |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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'was going to say, it's a Triumph Slant 4 in them. I initially was not too keen on them. But after driving a couple, and seeing their performance on the racetrack (a couple of TR7 V8s used to trouble a couple of cars in the CSCC Future Classiscs league not too long ago when they worked) has swung me to warming to them. Whilst they are based on the humble Dolomite they certainly are a sportier and potentially quicker car too. MGF wheels and nuts go on like a piece of cake and you should find a design to suit as well. Whilst the engines are not great you can still get a reasonable output out of the 2.0 Slant 4. But going to a Sprint (a simple swap) or Rover V8 does allow you to get more power easily and potentially cheaply. Some prefer them with the Sprint engine (they are keen revvers) some prefer the lazier nature of the RV8. As for conversion kits I believe Rimmers may stock them as will Robsport and SS Preparations. If I were buying one with the intention of modding, the suspension and brakes would be the first things to attend on my list. Most of them will be on knackered suspension and tyres etc. now. A small drop, good dampers in addition to more modern rubber does certainly work wonders. As for the brakes, braided lines, fresh fluid and beefier pads should get the ball rolling for a minimal outlay. Plus the car will look better for it  . Their biggest Achilles heel is rust, and Lord don't they do it well! Common hotspots seem to be the front end all over, especially the inner wings and strut towers. Sills and the arches do also go but I have seen more gone in the strut towers and inner wings. Anyway, time for some pics  :     |
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Last Edit: May 2, 2012 22:22:53 GMT by ChasR
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Ahh okay. How do you lower these cars? what sort of suspension stuff is available for them?
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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They are relatively simple to lower with some shorter springs. Fronts are MacPherson struts (dampers are inserts in the struts) with the rears having the springs sit between the chassis leg(s) and the live rear axle. Rimmers sell lowering kits with a variety of damper choices. If budget was an issue I'd probably chance it on the budget option they sell with poly spring insulators (the rubber ones seem to crack and compress out, leaving your car with 'twangy' sounding suspension when you turn!). www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID010831Whilst Robsport sell poly bushes and fancier dampers for the TR7 I am not sure if they sell lowering kits (it is worth calling them mind you) and I do know that SS Preparations also sell lowering kits for them. Whilst thicker ARBs and poly bushes are available I guess you are looking into dropping the height of the TR7 first . |
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"Spax KSX Shock Absorber Kit with Uprated Springs - TR7/8" sounds yummy. I wonder whether
"Rear Road Springs Retainer Kit for Uprated Rear Springs" is necessary?
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Always liked the shape myself but as stared above were rusting in the 70's so my guess would be one that's moted has either had huge work over the years or just been a good un.
Check as usual everywhere,in fact I'd say for £50 book it in for a ticket and then you'll get a full and Frank appraisal.
Enginewise its gotta be a conversion IMO,2.0 turbo sounds good to me,something torquey to get that back end out quick smart,perhaps Saab (weren't they based on triumph motors anyway?) through an omega box/diff or the usual mk2 escort stuff with a decent itb ford 2.0l zetec pushing out 160-170 bhp.
Their rep and problems stem from the dismal 70's/80's build quality due mainly to industrial issues at most car factories of that era.
Another thought for running gear etc would be to buy an old dog mx-5 and shove what you can off that,bet the seats etc would be a close fit too?
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,791 
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Very true Monkeyt, TR7s are not as bad as made out especially later ones, although there are a few things worth thinking about.. don't FOR THE LOVE OF GOD get a convertible!!.... later the better...lose the crappy troublesome piece of "O" series snot from under the bonnet, and the cog-swapper too for that matter!!... if you would like it "in keeping " then the best is a 2.0 8v from a cavalier/calibra on a manta Getrag box or a 318 beemer motor/box combo....or you could go Bonkers, ive seen one with a skyline engine in, several Yank V8s, one being "scoobyed", BMW V8, more sedate but still bonkers 2.0 16-valve Turbo from a rover 800 (better engine than they're credited for..) oh, and fit a better steering rack too!! ... I like them, its just that others believe the myths so they are cheap... I think you're a little confused there mate. Standard lumpis the 2.0 slant four. Basically a bored out verion of the Dolly 1850. There were a few factory Sprint conversions done, using the Dolly Sprint 16v version of the 2.0 ltr. This is your easiest swap. Also the TR8 was a factory built RV8 powered TR7. A reasonably straight forwards swap. I believe Robsport stock bolt together kits. I've always wondered about dropping the Saab 2.0/2.3 Turbo lumps in as they are direct desendants of the 1850 Dolly lump, but I'm not sure just how similar they were at the end. I know Saab did a lot of redevelopement work on them. Could be an interesting swap tho, and keeping a family connection    |
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From what I've heard there's not much similarity because Saab fixed all of the issues before they sold it but Triumph didn't!! And I couldnt let this go... ...without saying bollo! Triumphs are great!!  |
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Koos
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A TR7 is one of the cars on my list of possible recipients of my Volvo turbo running gear once its finished, its one of the many cars i remember being brand new and being disappointed with the lack of power so have never purchased. (Its quite a long list now though, so who knows which one will come up at the right price once I'm ready for action)  |
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Check for the dreaded rot because this is one thing they are VERY good at!
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From what I've heard there's not much similarity because Saab fixed all of the issues before they sold it but Triumph didn't!! And I couldnt let this go... ...without saying bollo! Triumphs are great!! Very early blocks are interchangeable according to a member of the Dolly club, I can't remember why, but the full later Saab engine apparently doesn't fit. Triumphs are great, once you've made them work how they were supposed to. ;D |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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The retainers probably are necessary. If they are anything like the Stag (which uses the arm as a retainer instead) the damper is what retains the spring effectively. I would be willing to bet that they are all using near full length dampers . |
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Yeah they probably are, I'd buy them too if I bought the dampers just to be on the safe side anyway. So next idea, carbuerettor mods. What sort of upgrades can be done? I'd like 4 stacks hahaha, also if you want to be mega cheapo is there a way of putting 2 stacks on each of the stock carbs? In affect achieveing the 4 stacks that I dream of So many questions... |
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