G A R'goyle
Part of things
Bad to the bones Senior citzien
Posts: 115
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May 22, 2012 20:14:10 GMT
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;D OK got that! Sorry for the f but i welded a clutch cable solid when i lost chassis ground once! ;D I liked your emergency kit it was only missing two things! Hope you get the electric sorted soon
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,303
Club RR Member Number: 160
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1955 Standard 10Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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May 22, 2012 20:42:45 GMT
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Ben, ditch the voltage regulator completely. I would expect to see the discharge fault hiding in there.. That or a faulty alternator..
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May 22, 2012 20:48:42 GMT
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;D OK got that! Sorry for the f but I welded a clutch cable solid when I lost chassis ground once! ;D I liked your emergency kit it was only missing two things! Hope you get the electric sorted soon Don't worry. I took no offence thanks for your input Rich. I'm assuming the same. The unused regulator is the only place on the entire car available to leak electricity. Would a faulty alt cause the battery to discharge when not running? It's certainly working when it is running.
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,784
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1955 Standard 10Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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May 22, 2012 21:47:04 GMT
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;D OK got that! Sorry for the f but I welded a clutch cable solid when I lost chassis ground once! ;D I liked your emergency kit it was only missing two things! Hope you get the electric sorted soon Don't worry. I took no offence thanks for your input Rich. I'm assuming the same. The unused regulator is the only place on the entire car available to leak electricity. Would a faulty alt cause the battery to discharge when not running? It's certainly working when it is running. yeah, it can. i had one like that once, was 100% perfect when it was running but when it stopped it had an earth short through the alternator field that would burn out a battery in under an hour. took ages to track down cos we kept thinking the fault was duff batterys cos we were just swapping on used ones with a fresh charge rather than fitting a new one.
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May 22, 2012 22:14:37 GMT
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yeah, it can. I had one like that once, was 100% perfect when it was running but when it stopped it had an earth short through the alternator field that would burn out a battery in under an hour. took ages to track down cos we kept thinking the fault was duff batterys cos we were just swapping on used ones with a fresh charge rather than fitting a new one. Thanks Dez. Regulator to be swapped out for the (conveniently spare but not sure what I purchased it for) new fusebox I have in stock then if that doesn't solve it I'll see if I'll try isolating the alternator from everything else to see if that's the cause.
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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1955 Standard 10HARDCORE
@hardcore
Club Retro Rides Member 190
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May 22, 2012 22:38:51 GMT
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How have I missed this?! Just read through from the start - love it - I knew it was a piece of you the moment I saw it ;D
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May 23, 2012 19:28:22 GMT
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I've just checked and I appear to have lost about 0.3 volts over the course of 24 hours of non-use. I wouldn't even have noticed if this was a daily but since it could easily sit for 2 weeks at a time it's something I will need to get to the bottom of Or disconnect the battery in anticipation of layups of more than a couple days
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,303
Club RR Member Number: 160
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1955 Standard 10Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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May 23, 2012 20:00:18 GMT
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Ben, its amp draw you need to look at rather than volt loss. You need to get a fused multimeter and put it between the battery earth and the cable. don't use any consumers or run the engine, obviously, you need to have it so the car is as it would be when parked. That's the best way to check drain. You'll need to look up an acceptable amp draw at rest though as I can never remember. Worst case scenario is to put a test light in place of a multimeter and you need to get it so the bulb is practically out, that signifies very very little drain.
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May 23, 2012 20:30:36 GMT
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nice car,
i think if you fit red rear lenses but with green bulbs it will flash orange
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1994 BMW 525i touring 2004 BMW Z4 sorn and broken 1977 Ford Escort 1982 Ford Capri getting restored 1999 Mazda B2500 daily driver.
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May 23, 2012 21:38:42 GMT
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Ben, its amp draw you need to look at rather than volt loss. You need to get a fused multimeter and put it between the battery earth and the cable. don't use any consumers or run the engine, obviously, you need to have it so the car is as it would be when parked. That's the best way to check drain. You'll need to look up an acceptable amp draw at rest though as I can never remember. Worst case scenario is to put a test light in place of a multimeter and you need to get it so the bulb is practically out, that signifies very very little drain. I was working on the assumption that a volt loss between two points in time indicated amp draw somewhere (or a faulty battery, but I'll discount that for now). Looking at symptoms and not the actual 'illness' I suppose. Will pick your brains at the weekend and go ahead with removing the surplus voltage regulator anyway as I've had a read and it's so simple to ditch that I can't help but think most of the online guides that suggest keeping it in place are misguided. I like the simplicity of this test though- Google suggests that more than 50mA on a modern car is too much. Presumably this figure should be far lower in this instance. nice car, I think if you fit red rear lenses but with green bulbs it will flash orange Thanks Yeah, I've read that before and seen a new 3 series with the red lens fallen off to reveal a green inner lens so I assume it works if you can get the right balance of colours.
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,303
Club RR Member Number: 160
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1955 Standard 10Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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May 23, 2012 21:51:51 GMT
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Ben, its amp draw you need to look at rather than volt loss. You need to get a fused multimeter and put it between the battery earth and the cable. don't use any consumers or run the engine, obviously, you need to have it so the car is as it would be when parked. That's the best way to check drain. You'll need to look up an acceptable amp draw at rest though as I can never remember. Worst case scenario is to put a test light in place of a multimeter and you need to get it so the bulb is practically out, that signifies very very little drain. I was working on the assumption that a volt loss between two points in time indicated amp draw somewhere (or a faulty battery, but I'll discount that for now). Looking at symptoms and not the actual 'illness' I suppose. Will pick your brains at the weekend and go ahead with removing the surplus voltage regulator anyway as I've had a read and it's so simple to ditch that I can't help but think most of the online guides that suggest keeping it in place are misguided. I like the simplicity of this test though- Google suggests that more than 50mA on a modern car is too much. Presumably this figure should be far lower in this instance. No worries, between me, James and you we can get it sorted. Would you like me to bring my fused automotive multimeter Ben?
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May 23, 2012 23:28:16 GMT
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Multimeter would be good, though I'll see if I can grab one from Uni too.
Ben - lead acid batteries are strange beasts. Once fully charged, if left idle (ie diconnected) the voltage will drop a reasonable amount over 24 hours, and then they will self-discharge (even if diconnected) at a fair old rate until dead: ususally 2-6 months. So the drop that you are seeing is entirely expected.
EDIT: on a car with no clock, stereo, alarm, or other constantly-powered accessory I would expect a current draw of exactly nothing: 0A = 0mA = 0μA.
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Last Edit: May 23, 2012 23:32:04 GMT by jrevillug
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brawr
Part of things
Posts: 650
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How have I missed this?! Just read through from the start - love it - I knew it was a piece of you the moment I saw it ;D Exactly this! Quality owner/car pairing!
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jonw
Part of things
Can open a Mouse with a File
Posts: 768
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Great project.
My garage door has a black splodge on it from the triumph.... and there was one at uni from the Sv. Is normal on manual choke vehicles.
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Suzuki SV650R The good Triumph T20 The Bad BMW G650GS The Ugly Matchless G12CSR The Smokey Toyota Hybrid One pint or Two?
Ingredients of this post Spam Drunken Rambling of author Bad spelling Drunken ramblings of inner voices Occasional pointless comments Vile beef trimming they won't even use in stock cubes
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mjd
Part of things
Posts: 46
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This cheapo Maplin multimeter will measure up to 10A which ought to be adequate (just don't try measuring alternator output with it ): www.maplin.co.uk/domestic-multimeter-37279Disconnect battery -ve lead, put the meter between the lead and the battery, see what it says. As above, on that car it ought be 0. My camper shows 0.03A (30mA) which I assume is the radio/clock as mentioned.
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May 27, 2012 13:25:51 GMT
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I have nothing to show for it and totally neglected to get pics of anything, but quite a bit of time has been put into this car this weekend. The 10 took its maiden voyage to Area 52 after work on Friday. I never realised the a37 from Yeovil to Bristol was entirely comprised of hills, despite having driven it many times.. The drive there was largely uneventful other than stopping at a Petrol station that I spotted had a load of NOS Lucas bits on the shelves. I'll be going there to stock up soon. Arriving at Area52 on Friday evening, I cracked open a cider and set to work on the easiest bit- I now have a modern flasher relay that flashes reliably and makes my warning light work as it should. From there, the headlamps were removed, the sidelights rewired (2 or 3 times over the course of Friday and Saturday ) and new H4 headlamps fitted after a bit of trimming and fettling. The problem here, other than me managing to catch wire in the engine fan.. was that every time some of the 60 year old wiring was disturbed, something else would stop working and need to be chased. Indeed, my oil pressure light appears to only work occasionally now following disturbance of the wiring so I will have to have a look at that ASAP The headlamp switch inexplicably failed and Jrevillug jumped straight in, stripped it down and rebuilt it for me. It was the original from 1955 so it's done well and is working perfectly again now. There's a bit of a running joke that Jrevillug, despite being in his early 20s, is actually from the 1950s ;D With this in mind, I handed him the cranking handle to see if he could use it to start the car.. He managed it too! I had a go and failed miserably, opting to make sure I either have a charged battery or am parked on a slope Unfortunately, our attempts also led to the bottom of the radiator being hit quite hard and the brass splitting. The rad was taken out, flushed for good measure and given a temporary/permanent repair of some chemical metal type stuff. It appears to be fine but I'll keep an eye on it. James also had a poke around to see if he could see where my electricity was falling out. Turns out it was the 'sense' wire of the alternator that I had connected to the battery losing a couple hundred milliamps. Connecting this to an ignition live had it fixed and my losses are around 1 microamp. I can live with one millionth of an amp! VIP pony expressed a differential down from Seth for me and that will be fitted once I'm confident that the engine is all running how it should. It's a 4.1 (or 4.11? from an early Herald). James actually helped with loads of other bits too; he jumped in and got stuff sorted before I even knew what was going on! It would have taken me weeks and months to get this stuff done on my own so I'm really grateful to him and everyone that helped at A52 over the weekend. My drive home was a bit harder work. I decided I'd sit in the slow lane of the M5 because I fancied an easy drive. I suffered really bad fuel vaporisation though and had to stop for half an hour or so on the hard shoulder everything to cool down and my fuel to recondense. I'm going to relocate the fuel filter and see if that's enough to sort it, and if not will reroute the fuel line a bit to keep the temps down.
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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1955 Standard 10Deleted
@Deleted
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May 27, 2012 17:04:18 GMT
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Still jealous, even with the gremlin chasing you've got going on there.
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Steve
Posted a lot
Making progress in small, easy to handle chunks of awesome
Posts: 2,034
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May 27, 2012 19:35:34 GMT
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The electrical c*** strikes again! ;D his talents are limitless
Have yet to see this in the flesh dude but it sounds like its tailor made for you and a right laugh to boot
one thing I must say though.........THIS THREAD NEEDS MOAR PICZ!
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May 29, 2012 19:55:20 GMT
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This pic appeared on Facebook after the Area 52 play weekend. I thought I'd share it. Credit goes to Diabolu This is the gloriously blue relay used to replace the awful old Lucas one. I broke the bracket It'll get mounted properly when I do the fusebox I've had a look at them flashing and I don't think I'm too worried about them staying white now that they're separated out from the sidelights And is my warning light working now? Yes No Yes No Something that came up in conversation at the weekend was the retro-tat steering wheel cover. Bruce seemed to strangely like it but I thought it was 'orrible, especially having driven with it on. I knew the condition of the wheel was poor but since it's inkeeping with the patina of the rest of the car, I'm happy with that Nasty splits in the plastic (bakelite?) I gave it all a wipe over with white spirit to get any grime off but found it to be surprisingly clean Some fuel hose arrived today so I'll relocate the filter when I next get a chance..
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,538
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May 29, 2012 20:23:08 GMT
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Good progress I had completely forgotten/.neglected to tell VIP the diff was there so glad he found it Be sure to give it a good looking at before you use it. Hope its OK. I'm not a fan of those steering wheel covers either, though I kept the one on the Sun-tor as it was worn through at the position you held the wheel with your arm on the window sill. I am not surprised to hear that it was the modern part causing your electricity to disappear
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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