ianmk2
Part of things
Posts: 116 
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Hi I've just sorted the oil leak on the cam cover's of my 24v using a contact gasket sealer called Gasgacinch. I did a thread about it on the granada temp forum - gsoonline.freeforums.org/post347.html#p347 - if it's any good to you. Adam Holy old post resurrection batman, but if the poster is still around do you have any more info on this? (The link no longer works) I have recently acquired a Mk3 24v and believe the left hand rocker cover may be weeping onto the exhaust manifold every now and then. I understand ford in their wisdom made the gaskets non-renewable and you're supposed to buy new rocker covers! However I've seen gaskets for sale on eBay so I'm not sure, is the issue just one of glueing the new gasket to the rocker cover? Awesome car btw, two things I love. A Mk2 Granada and a BOA. Bookmarked to read in its entirety later on |
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,061
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Hi I've just sorted the oil leak on the cam cover's of my 24v using a contact gasket sealer called Gasgacinch. I did a thread about it on the granada temp forum - gsoonline.freeforums.org/post347.html#p347 - if it's any good to you. Adam Holy old post resurrection batman, but if the poster is still around do you have any more info on this? (The link no longer works) I have recently acquired a Mk3 24v and believe the left hand rocker cover may be weeping onto the exhaust manifold every now and then. I understand ford in their wisdom made the gaskets non-renewable and you're supposed to buy new rocker covers! However I've seen gaskets for sale on eBay so I'm not sure, is the issue just one of glueing the new gasket to the rocker cover? Awesome car btw, two things I love. A Mk2 Granada and a BOA. Bookmarked to read in its entirety later on In a word, yes. If you can get the gaskets to stick and seal to the covers you're on to a winner. I believe Ade on the fordpower.org site just used sealant between the top of the heads and covers themselves with no gasket at all  |
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cresad
Part of things
Posts: 51
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1978 Toyota Cressida - Restored and Modified - now sold
1977 Toyota Cressida Grande Hardtop - Still working on it - now sold
1972 Toyota CROWN - Full restoration , Modified engine and auto/box - now sold
1972 Toyota CROWN - Restored , Pick up Conversion
1993 Ford Granada Cosworth 3.0 24v
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ianmk2
Part of things
Posts: 116
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Cheers guys, I'll probably leave it for now because I don't think it's a major issue currently and I'm a bit concerned about inadvertently turning it into one!
Another quick question if I may, my BOA has some idling issues, I wouldn't exactly call it a misfire as such but it's not quite right, a bit 'bumpy' is the best way I can describe it, the idle speed also tends to hunt a bit between 750-1000 rpm and it occasionally cuts out when it's cold. Now the seller did mention he thought it could do with some inlet gaskets and 'unauthorised' air entering the system does seem a plausible explanation, so I'm going to change them as a starting point. Do you have any other suggestions to check if this doesn't cure it?
I know it's a pretty vague question that could be a multitude of things, are there any BOA common faults I should look out for
Thanks awfully and sorry to spam up your build thread with my questions.
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,061
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Cheers guys, I'll probably leave it for now because I don't think it's a major issue currently and I'm a bit concerned about inadvertently turning it into one! Another quick question if I may, my BOA has some idling issues, I wouldn't exactly call it a misfire as such but it's not quite right, a bit 'bumpy' is the best way I can describe it, the idle speed also tends to hunt a bit between 750-1000 rpm and it occasionally cuts out when it's cold. Now the seller did mention he thought it could do with some inlet gaskets and 'unauthorised' air entering the system does seem a plausible explanation, so I'm going to change them as a starting point. Do you have any other suggestions to check if this doesn't cure it? I know it's a pretty vague question that could be a multitude of things, are there any BOA common faults I should look out for Thanks awfully and sorry to spam up your build thread with my questions. could be several things. Idle motor gummed up/duff, idle motor bybass hose cracked, faulty tps on the throttle body, broken wiring loom somewhere or even just old spark plugs  If you can, the best bet is to get the fault codes read on it to see where to look for a start  Also, the coolant temp sensor for the ecu is a known iffy item that regularly fails and causes idle problems too  |
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ianmk2
Part of things
Posts: 116
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Thanks, appreciate the reply. I've ordered a code reader, it's a Gunson something or other which apparently displays the codes as numbers rather than you having to count the flashes.
Interestingly though I was checking the wiring to the sensors you mentioned and the tps plug has a broken clip, I pushed it on a bit harder and hey presto, took it for a drive and when it warmed up (the time it's usually idling the worst) it idled perfectly. Now whether it will stay like that who knows, but it's definitely a prime suspect now.
Also I attempted to remove it for closer inspection, and noticed there is a little plastic clip inside which engages into the TPS to turn it and half of it is snapped off, I don't know whether that is affecting it too, but lord only knows if I'll be able to get another.
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,061
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Mar 24, 2016 14:03:59 GMT
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last friday (may have been the one before I guess) I looked at the wheel bearing slack after taking up the slack in it a few days before. Old front wheel bearing collapsed so just bung in a new one thought I. Get the hub off to replace the bearings, and the inner large taper bearing is stuck to the stub axle (although nothing major, just tapped off and rubbed the stub axle back to clean again) Inside the hub however the bearing ring has eaten away the metal work and is flopping about inside its own groove  Thankfully have a spare hub at home in the shed so that was sourced and the brake disc swapped over and all back together ok Next visit is to my welding friend to blitz the bodywork crustiness that's been acquired over the last few years of daily use |
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,061
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Apr 24, 2016 18:46:38 GMT
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Just a little update today. Last weekend was an oil and filter change after 10,000miles since the last one Just over 196k on the clock now, and I think the ole girl was on about 93k when I purchased her 14years ago. About 70k of those are with the BOA lump and 4speedauto too! Really should reinstate the oil housing and heat exchanger setup,but waiting to get a 27mm dowty washer and the manifold on the drivers side needs removing to fit that and get wrapped at the same time. |
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,061
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Well,first time in a while. But tonight I have broken down Just heading past Brands Hatch and the speed camera down hill (and coasting) when I throttle up again to keep speed there's a thunk and an almighty racket from the transmission tunnel! Pulled over and can't see anything broken and both driveshafts seem OK. Just back in and gently try and nurse it to a better spot and there's still drive. Awaiting recovery at the mo and I shall get it up on the ramp at work tomorrow to investigate :/ |
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Last Edit: May 5, 2016 22:19:47 GMT by mk2cossie
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drive plate at a uess from the description,they tend to break around the bolt holes, or craCK BETWEEN the bolts,
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,061
Club RR Member Number: 77
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drive plate at a uess from the description,they tend to break around the bolt holes, or craCK BETWEEN the bolts, Thankfully it's not that, as i discovered this morning Just got home after nearly completing the work needed on it. Anyone want to have a guess at the catastrophic failure I experienced last night? (Pics to follow in a little while when I've had some mead!) |
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,061
Club RR Member Number: 77
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damn it! no mead in the cupboard, so next best thing will do  So this morning I got to work before the boss did  On to the MoT ramp so I can have a look underneath the wagon with it in the normal driving position. Propshaft away from everything and all CV joints and both propshaft UJs all OK. So next port of call is to get the back wheels off the ground and rotate it all. Both rear wheels rotate ok, and in opposite directions even with the shifter in P. Something definately not right here. Grab the prop and try to rotate that and it's locked solid. Tentatively start the ole girl up and select drive with the back wheels up int he air, and almost instantly get the clunking from underneath. And all coming from the diff casing area  Unbolt the propshaft and thats all turning ok, narrows it down to the diff unit itself. So todays lunchtime involved headinig home and getting the noisy original unit I replaced a few years ago. Gave that a bit of a clean out and a quick general birthday to swap over in to the car this evening...... |
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,061
Club RR Member Number: 77
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So the old unit out and on the bench to swap over the driveshaft flange circlips and the extension housing bolts. Ford in their infinite wisdom didn't fit a drain plug on the diff unit of granadas So, first thing was to split the diff from the rear cover to drain out the oil. Which doesn't look too promising  Orinal old unit got a bit of modifying whilst on the bench, should make it's life of oil changing easier in future Probably doesn't look very much, but it's a lower bolt hole for the rear cover drilled through in to the casing itself, and a handy drain hole for future oil changes  Old unit looks OK on first glance on the bench  Until you look further in to the unit  So that'll be FUBAR'd then |
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big commiserations on the CWP... do you think it was the 24v power or the high mileage or both?
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,061
Club RR Member Number: 77
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big commiserations on the CWP... do you think it was the 24v power or the high mileage or both? Thank you! I think it was probably a bit of both. The propshaft has no centre bearing or doughnut, so the autobox probably hasn't helped with the torque convertor lockup and shocking the drivetrain |
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mr
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,619
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May 10, 2016 10:24:50 GMT
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can you not swap that cog on its own for you whiney diffs one? never touched my diff so don't know if they're changeable.
drain holes a damn good idea!!!!!!!!
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Got the car from 105 bhp at the crank to 152 at the wheels.nitrous going on next.....if it ain't broke,keep bolting on go faster parts until it is........ www.fordgranadaclubuk.freefo.de |
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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May 10, 2016 11:06:58 GMT
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If that's the state of the pinion, the CROWN wheel isn't going to be in a particularly good state either..
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May 10, 2016 12:09:34 GMT
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Drain plug is a good idea.
At least you have a spare diff to hand so you wont be off the road for long.
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,061
Club RR Member Number: 77
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May 10, 2016 16:54:57 GMT
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Drain plug is a good idea. At least you have a spare diff to hand so you wont be off the road for long. After breaking down Thursday evening the ole girl was on the trek to Crawley at 1pm Saturday straight after work Slightly noisy bearing in the diff, but its bearable and tides me over til a fancy diff upgrade  |
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,061
Club RR Member Number: 77
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May 12, 2016 22:23:08 GMT
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can you not swap that cog on its own for you whiney diffs one? never touched my diff so don't know if they're changeable. drain holes a damn good idea!!!!!!!! Not as simple as that mr, as the CROWNwheel and pinion are a matched pair. And to change the pinion means undoing the shaft with a crush tube in that sets the preload Glad you like the drain idea, I came up with that all by myself you know!  |
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