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Hi all, Having a few issues with my Cortina. Its a bit hard to explain, so bare with me! Basically theres a very noticable vibration/noise coming from the engine/gearbox area.Ive just put it back on the road for the summer, and took it for a drive last night, and this is happening.I remember now that it had started doing this just as I took it off the road last year. It drives fine, but if you get up to 3000/3500 rpm or more, this vibration and rattly/crunchy sort of noise happens.If you keep the speed up, but push the clutch in, it all stops, and the car coasts quiet as anything.Last night I had the car standing, and brought the engine revs up to the same 3000 rpm, and I get the same noise/vibration. I know this is a bit of a vauge discription, but help!?  Last year I put a 5 speed in, and changed the clutch at the same time.I also swapped the propshaft, and the axel.I'm thinking its something to do with the gearbox, but could it be borked, or maybe thrust bearing?Need to get this sorted asap, as I want to use it!Any help would be appreciated.Any more info just shout. Thanks!  |
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Also, this noise didn't start happening straight away.When I fitted everything, it was fine, and this has started happening since.
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have you checked the bolts are all still tight in the bellhousing? I have had them come loose on old fords, also if you didnt refit the crud plate it could have something rattling round in there. other wise I would suspect the thrust bearing, input shaft bearing or a broken spring in the clutch plate.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Have you checked the gearbox oil?
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djefk
Part of things
Posts: 844
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Check the engine and gearbox mounts haven't disintegrated / failed - Jack the lump and box up carefully and wiggle!
Also I've had a gearbox tailshaft crack which resulted in the symptoms you described - That was because the type 9 was bolted to a Cossie V6 mind.... :-)
If you can discount both these things it could just be rough running, but I'd be very surprised given your description.
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Mar 11, 2012 10:22:54 GMT
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Had a look yesterday, and all bolts are ok, as are engine mounts.Got loads of oil in there too.Got it up on the ramp, runing, and looked into the hole where the clutch arm goes in(when you depress the clutch), and couldn't see anything obviously amiss.I guess its just going to be a case of taking the thing off again and see if I can see anything.Bit of a pain, but hey ho!Any other suggestions?
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Mar 11, 2012 10:40:06 GMT
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If you stick a screw driver aginst the gearbox/engine and put your ear on the other end while the cars rattling you might be able to track down the location a bit better, works like a stethoscope.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Pid363!
Posted a lot
Madness is all in the mind!
Posts: 1,052
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Mar 11, 2012 10:53:43 GMT
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Has it got a soild prop end or a rubber donut on the gearbox end as they brake up? Prop not balanced?
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Stupid is as stupid does!
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Mar 11, 2012 16:07:16 GMT
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What happens if you rev it when stationary but in gear with the clutch in?
If it's doing it stationary then it's not a drive-line issue, the furthest through it could be is the input shaft bearings if you were doing it in neutral.
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Mar 11, 2012 16:46:35 GMT
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Its got the 3 UJ prop on it, as my rubber coupling already broke and had to be replaced!But cant be that as it happens when stationary. Will try the screwdriver thing too. Ill also do as you suggest Robin.We did try it with the clutch in, but not in gear.Either way, it didn't make a difference, but will try again, but in gear.If your about sometime, feel free to pop over!  ;D |
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Mar 11, 2012 17:00:26 GMT
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To be honest being in gear won't make much difference if the clutch is in, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to make sure nothing in the box is spinning still. Chances are it's something with the engine in that case.
That narrows it down to not being the input shaft then, so it must be something to do with the engine or it's mounting. I guess it's worth checking all the ancillaries and mountings before worrying about the engine its self though
I'm in Oxford until the end of the month but I'll be back for a couple of weeks for Easter then, it'd be cool to pop around sometime while I'm back. Hopefully you'll have is sorted by then though.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Mar 11, 2012 17:09:06 GMT
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Sounds like a possable input shaft BUT first off take off the gearstick rubber and make sire the gearstick plate isn't hitting the rear of the stick hole in the tunnel, on manual shells it hits the rear and on auto shells it hits at the front, you either trim the plate, the hole or lower the box (lowering is the best option as it realigns the drive train as the auto xmember is flatter than the manual one), 4 wheel nuts will do as a temp measure between the Xmember and the mounts IF that is the problem, although the stick plate usually vibrates in reverse more than forwrd gears and not as bas when staionary ?
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Mar 11, 2012 19:50:11 GMT
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Sounds like a possable input shaft BUT first off take off the gearstick rubber and make sire the gearstick plate isn't hitting the rear of the stick hole in the tunnel, on manual shells it hits the rear and on auto shells it hits at the front, you either trim the plate, the hole or lower the box (lowering is the best option as it realigns the drive train as the auto xmember is flatter than the manual one), 4 wheel nuts will do as a temp measure between the Xmember and the mounts IF that is the problem, although the stick plate usually vibrates in reverse more than forwrd gears and not as bas when staionary ? Nice one, ill give that a go tommorow! |
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Mar 14, 2012 20:53:17 GMT
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Right, had a check of the gearstick hole, seems to be fine,like this;  Bang in the middle. So I guess I'm going to be taking the box off again.If its the imput shaft, do you think it'll be obvious to see?Ive not had loads of experience with this.Cheers again! ;D |
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Mar 14, 2012 21:26:49 GMT
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Right, had a check of the gearstick hole, seems to be fine,like this; So I guess I'm going to be taking the box off again.If its the imput shaft, do you think it'll be obvious to see?Ive not had loads of experience with this.Cheers again! ;D Difficult one to explain TBH, there will be some play even in a good box but only a few mm. I'd have onw last real good look at the mounts and exhasust ect before dropping the box, especialy the gearbox Xmememer as the runner there will rot to hell if there gear oil has leaked onto it then the box sits on the Xmemeber metal to metal and make a racket, if not best drop it i guess? |
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Mar 14, 2012 21:44:17 GMT
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Hang on, if the stick is in the middle of a manual tunnel, surely that means the engine and box is about an inch further forward than usual? Maybe have a look to make sure your sump isn't slapping off the steering rack.....
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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If it's vibrating when stationary with the clutch in, then surely it can't be the input shaft, as that's not spinning unless the clutch in engaged?
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Mar 15, 2012 12:49:40 GMT
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Hang on, if the stick is in the middle of a manual tunnel, surely that means the engine and box is about an inch further forward than usual? Maybe have a look to make sure your sump isn't slapping off the steering rack..... Exellent point (wish i'd made it) ;D any idea what Xmember is on the gearbox? if auto try turning it around, they are slightly off centre and that might move it back a tad and take any strain off the engine mounts ? |
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Mar 15, 2012 22:31:26 GMT
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Hang on, if the stick is in the middle of a manual tunnel, surely that means the engine and box is about an inch further forward than usual? Maybe have a look to make sure your sump isn't slapping off the steering rack..... Exellent point (wish i'd made it) ;D any idea what Xmember is on the gearbox? if auto try turning it around, they are slightly off centre and that might move it back a tad and take any strain off the engine mounts ? I'm not totally sure what its off of, it was on the box when I picked it up.Had already been attached to another Cortina.Good point made though.Ill have a look at that first, suppose it'll be fairly obvious if its offset.Ill check the sump/steering rack thing too, although it doesn't sound/feel like that sort of impact. If the clutch itself was miss aligned, or come slightly loose etc,that would have major issues wouldn't it?Just wondering if it could be that?suppose if something like that wasn't alligned properly, it'd just rip itself apart? |
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Mar 15, 2012 22:39:53 GMT
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loose clutches tend to slip, it's practically impossible to have a misalligned one (barring serious mechanical failure) due to the input shaft mating into the flywheel on the spigot bearing.
The reason I mentioned the sump to rack situation is that it isn't the first time I've seen it, and it fits the symptoms (ie happens out of gear when stationary) It isn't so much that the engine bangs the rack as touches at medium-high rpm and the metal to metal contact acts like a microphone for the engine noise.
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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;D