Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
Jan 24, 2012 13:34:55 GMT
|
dave- not yet mate, been too busy working on other stuff. ive sized it up and itll fit though. hopefully itll kick out enough heat to warm up the small cab. so, ive got a little more done. been very, very busy with other things, so its not a massive update, but I'm still edging forwards and ticking things off 'the list'. ive been working on the fuel lines and their fittings at the mo. the iveco motor uses all 8mmID/10mm OD hard plastic lines, so thats what I chose to use for ease of fitment. conveniently when I raided the 'big box of random hydraulic/hose fittings' I have I found a couple of little brass barbs + collars (which I actually thing were for an airline) which were also for 8mm ID hose, but crewed onto the land rover brass tank fittings and had the right seat to seal on them. I had some problems with the fuel line I bought to do it, I bought some standard/generic black hard nylon line from this guy- will30309 via ebay, which turned out to be too hard. it would kink as I tried to unroll it straight, and even warming the ends in boiling water, it was shattering when I was tapping in the fittings, so just wasnt up to the job. he has bent over backwards to help me though, I really cant recommend him enough, he suggested I tried a different type of line that looks the same but is more flexible, and even sent me a length FOC to replace the other stuff that didnt work. top bloke, so if you need fuel pipe I recommend you give him a try, and I believe he is now stocking the more flexible, easier to work with stuff over the other type so no-one should have problems in the future. I also bought some flip-lock plastic hose clips that are a push fit into a 6mm hole to clip the hose to the chassis rail, and this is the setup ive now got- everything is just an exact copy of the stock setup, except I had to heat up a few of the banjo unions to manipulate the pipe stubs to point in slightly different directions as my filter housing is now mounted in a different place to stock. I polished all the unions up clean on the bench mounted wire wheel before fitting the new hose- and here you can see where it clips along inside the chassis rail then exits under the pickup bed. ive still got to add a few anti-chafing measures here, but that can wait until final fit after the chassis is painted- the fittings I cut out of the old tank for the land rover series fuel pickup pipes are now welded into the tank, and youll see as I did this I eliminated the old fuel gauge/pickup assembly, as the one on didnt work, and I didnt know what it was from. I'm going to fit in the landy one at a later date. job for this evening is weld up that final hole in the top then choppy is taking it to leak test and lead up accordingly. oh, and I picked a little something up for it at the RRJJ
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 24, 2012 13:36:54 GMT by Dez
|
|
|
RA40tony
Europe
Rollin' rollin' rollin'
Posts: 768
|
|
Jan 25, 2012 19:00:18 GMT
|
Great. Inching closer to being a driver. BTW once its ready don't expect us to settle for pics... vids it will have to be.
|
|
1979 Toyota Celica GT. Currently Gone.
1975 Toyota Celica ST. 13x7 Allycats, "the stick" applied. 100kW 4AGE... Sold
1963 Karmann Ghia - Lo & Slo, Sold.
1965 VW Fastback - cruising
1953 Oval Ragtop, work in progress...
|
|
markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,970
Club RR Member Number: 56
|
|
Jan 25, 2012 19:57:08 GMT
|
I love this thread
|
|
|
|
RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
|
|
Jan 25, 2012 21:05:22 GMT
|
What he said Well deserving of the award, it really is going to be an awesome truck once it's done, which I can't wait to see. It makes a very, very interesting thread too, really good to see every little stage of the build, and the ways you've got around any problems.
|
|
|
|
murphyslaw
Part of things
If in doubt drive her flat out !!
Posts: 65
|
|
Jan 30, 2012 13:25:51 GMT
|
I think with all the attention your getting, you should upgrade your Photo Bucket to a Pro account. Because none/few of your picutres are showing anymore. Well done by the way.
|
|
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
Jan 31, 2012 23:52:40 GMT
|
tony- there will be vids soon mark- Cheers! it my favourite build thread ive put together so far, even over my A and stuff, I'm really enjoying doing it. robin- i like to detail stuff, for my benefit as much as anyone elses murphyslaw- they sound all be working again now- i had to spring for PB pro again as i maxed my account out again. another update to come shortly too folks
|
|
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
well, with the first fireup imminent, I thought it might be wise to have a gearbox mount fitted as well as the engine mounts, rather than it sat on a bit of wood on the crossmember. this turned out to be fairly simple, albeit a bit more complicated than the old one which was literally screw the mount into the chopped down sierra one and drill one hole for it! I started with the stock iveco mount, as it was massively overbuilt, but also ideal in its shape and meant I didnt have to remake all the bit that bolted to the gearbox. first, I sliced off the lower half with the big one rubber block on, and threw it away- then I ground the rivet heads off the two big rivets in it on the lower side (they're kind of unnecessary anyway, as its also welded on the edges to hold it together- I told you it was overbuilt!). I was gunna knock the rivets out totally and weld the holes up flush, but seeing as I couldnt drift them out, or press them out without starting to bend the mount which is 2x6mm plates sandwiched together, I guess theyll be fine where they are...... I then marked up, drilled and tapped a m10x1.5 hole to accept the land rover v8 bobbin type engine mount- and here it is back the right way up with the mount fitted- marked for trimming- cut down, and a couple of little strips welded onto the end, smoothed in, and also trimmed down, to give it the full circle shape- then, getting ahead of myself a bit cos I forgot to take pics, I copied the shape of the mount plate more or less, added a backplate to bolt to the crossmember(the angle is to account for the fact the face of the crossmember isnt vertical) added a couple of gussets, and that made this lower half of the mount- which then bolts to the crossmember with 4x m10 bolts. worms eye view- I still plan to add a weight-bearing plate that sits onto the top of the crossmember, to stop the weight of the engine/box putting a shear force on the bolts, but ile do that when the gearbox isnt in the way. in the next update, youll get a shifter, some wiring, maybe a prop, and possibly even some brum-brum noises...........
|
|
Last Edit: Feb 1, 2012 0:12:32 GMT by Dez
|
|
|
|
|
great work as ever dez! Most people would be happy to just "make a tidy ish bracket that holds the gearbox in" but you take the time to make stuff look nice.
Those rover V8 mounts look dead handy - cheap too. How stiff are they? Do you reckon they could handle a little shear force? I'm thinking of using them to replace the dead expensive VW mounts when I put a golf engine in my van, and they sit at about a 30 degree angle in that (imagine mini engine mounts kind of arrangement)
|
|
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
tbh, they're stiff as f-k! if i grab the rocker cover on the engine and try to force it side to side, they don't really move more than a couple of MM. they're great for most v8s, straight 6s, heavy stuff, etc. i tend to build things with these as they're nice and solid to work with so you dopnt have to compensate for sag, then if they're too stiff swap them out for pinto ones which are identical dimensions/threads, but softer. they are cheap, about 3-4 quid a pop depending on how many you buy (combined postage). i get mine from jgs4x4 via ebay and have never had any issues with quality. they're fine with a little shear, OE RV8 application actually used 2 opposed mounts at 45deg, like these i made for the victor- i think theyd be fine for the golf engine in a t25 application, solid mount the outer ends of the bar then have these close in to the block.
|
|
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
well, still not got round to firing it up yet, mostly cos ive been putting off sitting and doing the fiddly wiring in the sub-zero temps were having at the mo. I have poor curculation in my extremities, and cant do more than about 5 mins without gloves before I cant feel what I'm doing when its this cold! I'm thinking I might make a wiring board/fuseboard whilst sat in the warm, then I can connect it up to the car a wire or two at a time. so instead, I did some jobs that envlove heat! I cut off the ugly plasticy iveco shifter, cleaned up the stub, and welded on the nice old tapered one with the old weird smelly plastic knob id made for the type 9 gearbox. the throw on this is amazing, cos its originally floor mounted in the iveco van, its like having a super-short shift kit fitted- its only got about 3" of throw between all the gears, so give a real positive shift action. but even with that it was still arguing for space with the heater and dash, mostly cos the new gearbox is bloody huge compared to a type 9- its about the same width save for a big bulge on the side, but its easily twice as tall!! so, I got the hot spanner out and reshaped it a little to bring it away from the dash. no real plan, just done freehand till it brought the shift knob back far enough to be comfortable, and gave an asthetically pleasing shape to it. next, I decided to try to get it back up to the stage it was at before I decided to rip it apart to change engines, so I figured the next job was to put the A-pillar gearbox hoop/framwork back in, in a revised position to fit the new bigger gearbox. I basically moved it up about 3", and had to splay the riser sections out a bit to clear the extra bulk of the gearbox- assymetrically too, as there is a much bigger bulge on one side of the box, thankfully its the passenger side though. itll need some tidying up and finishing off with the body off and gearbox out, but I can now proceed with refitting the last couple of bits of floor bracing, then panelling it all in. this pic shows just how much bigger the tunnel is to cover that gearbox-
|
|
Last Edit: Feb 7, 2012 9:46:35 GMT by Dez
|
|
|
|
|
|
That looks really fantastic.Love the gearbox mounting.
|
|
Peace,Max signature height = 80px
|
|
Copey
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,845
|
|
|
amazing!! the g-box mount is very well designed! great idea to use an engine mount for the job! i do love this thread
|
|
1990 Ford Sierra Sapphire GLSi with 2.0 Zetec 1985 Ford Capri 3.0 (was a 2.0 Laser originally)
|
|
kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
|
|
|
alright dez - glad to see you've come over to the dark, dank diesely world of iveco's... (as everyone will soon - mwah ha ha!)
few things - with the power steering pump, if you remove the pump, you can just whack a nice thick bit of ally plate over the hole - it's worked fine on mine
also, with the gearstick - have you incorporated the nylon bushing in the bottom of the factory 'stick? - as without it, when running, the stick will flail about all over the place, until the welds break, and you have to drive home with a length of box section over the 1" stub of original shifter - ask me how I know...
if you need a spare prop to cut down, let me know and I'll bring you one to essex
- kfw
|
|
Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
That looks really fantastic.Love the gearbox mounting. cheers pete. i recon similar will work on a transit motor
|
|
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
amazing!! the g-box mount is very well designed! great idea to use an engine mount for the job! I do love this thread ive worked with enough PITA ones in the past to know what i need from one the fact i can easily totally remove the whole thing from both gearbox and chassis before removing or having to remove the engine/box from the car is what i was aiming for, and i think ive done it quite well.
|
|
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
alright dez - glad to see you've come over to the dark, dank diesely world of iveco's... (as everyone will soon - mwah ha ha!) few things - with the power steering pump, if you remove the pump, you can just whack a nice thick bit of ally plate over the hole - it's worked fine on mine also, with the gearstick - have you incorporated the nylon bushing in the bottom of the factory 'stick? - as without it, when running, the stick will flail about all over the place, until the welds break, and you have to drive home with a length of box section over the 1" stub of original shifter - ask me how I know... if you need a spare prop to cut down, let me know and I'll bring you one to essex - kfw they are, well, suprisingly good! muich better than I was expecting in both design and build tbh. you must by psychic kev. I made this today- I had a poke in there behind it and also figured it would probably be ok sans-pump. good to hear its been a success on the kevwagon. other option was just loop the pipe over, but that would look sh1t. I did take it one step further though, and seeing as they're driven off opposite ends of a common shaft, I figured it was probably also ok to bin the vac pump, as I don't need it- as for your other points, it doesnt seem there is a nylon bush in my gearstick? I took it all apart before chopping/welding to make sure I wasnt gunna melt anything, and found no plastic in there at all. does yours have a funny steel pin with a big nut head on each end you unscrew to remove the stick, running through the pivot ball? my gearstick is 'tight' when in neutral, no play in it, to move it at all youre pushing against the neutral return springs. and yeah I do kinda need a prop- ive got a prop end, but could really do with a prop section that incorporates a slip-joint if youve got one? as neither my front iveco flange or rear sherpa flange have one, so it would mean a load of extra machining and prop welding to incorporate one, and seeing as I'm gunna DIY it I want as few joins as poss really.
|
|
Last Edit: Feb 8, 2012 0:28:53 GMT by Dez
|
|
kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
|
|
|
ah, I kept the vac pump on mine, although you should have used ally man, saves weight... erm, from memory, the stick is held into that big ally 'tower' bit by a big bolt, which if you take out, you can reverse the stick so it doen't poke ito your f250's dashboard... on mine, from the top down there was the big rubber gearknob, then the steel gearstick, which flared out at the bottom to cover a sort of nylon cylindrical bit, which went over the stub with the ball section on? makes perfect sense to me ^^ I'll be in the truck at essex, so you can have a look then! (and I'll chuck you a prop in too - all of mine have a slip joint in them) oh, and while we're on the subject, don't suppose your donor iveco logbook has the cylinder capacity for the 2.8 on it? - as I'm finally changing my logbook up - kfw
|
|
Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
|
|
|
|
|
oh, and while we're on the subject, don't suppose your donor iveco logbook has the cylinder capacity for the 2.8 on it? - as I'm finally changing my logbook up - kfw Kev, the workshop manual shows it as exactly 2800 Good luck with the logbook ;D
|
|
...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
|
|
luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
|
|
|
Epic work as always Dez, really coming on now
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Good stuff as ever Dez,.. but you are getting moved to Readers Rides
|
|
|
|
|