Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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ah, I kept the vac pump on mine, although you should have used ally man, saves weight... erm, from memory, the stick is held into that big ally 'tower' bit by a big bolt, which if you take out, you can reverse the stick so it doen't poke ito your f250's dashboard... on mine, from the top down there was the big rubber gearknob, then the steel gearstick, which flared out at the bottom to cover a sort of nylon cylindrical bit, which went over the stub with the ball section on? makes perfect sense to me ^^ I'll be in the truck at essex, so you can have a look then! (and I'll chuck you a prop in too - all of mine have a slip joint in them) oh, and while we're on the subject, don't suppose your donor iveco logbook has the cylinder capacity for the 2.8 on it? - as I'm finally changing my logbook up - kfw yep, I know the bit you mean- I just did away with it- ive done it loads of times without issue on previous cars. all it actually does is isolate the gearknob from the drivetrain, so you cant feel any vibration when youre sat with your hand on your knob if your fails around, it would be a sign the neutral return springs in the gearbox have gone weak, as my falcon wagon did that and that was the cause. a prop will be much appreciated, thanks. ive just reminded myself I need to get you the details about that other engine too. I don't have a logbook, only the reg of the original donor vehicle.
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Last Edit: Feb 9, 2012 10:12:39 GMT by Dez
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Epic work as always Dez, really coming on now it is, i got an exciting delivery yesterday too, ile update on it in a bit ;P Good stuff as ever Dez,.. but you are getting moved to Readers Rides no problem david, i remember you mentioned a move before
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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so, first a couple of little bits I attended to. I removed the broken reverse light switch that sticks 2" out of the back of the gearbox, and found something to blank it off. turns out it was m14x1.5 thread, aircooled VW owners should recognise what I used to bung it up, along with a copper washer and a bit of thread seal then, I put back in one section of the drivers side floor bracing and the corresponding floor panel, but I put it in at a different angle which made it much easier and neater to do the panelling where the tunnel meets the floor, but this did mean I had to hammer the lip out flat and re-bend it at a different angle, and add back in a section of the bent up lip id previously cut out to clear the tunnel. you cant really tell its been done though- tbh, I should have just done it like this in the first place its so much neater, and easier to work with with the floor meeting the tunnel framing square rather than at a slope. so that panel is now about ready to rivet in, and I think ive got just enough 1" box and sheet steel to do the other drivers side floor section in front of it before I need to do a steel order again.
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Last Edit: Feb 9, 2012 10:36:18 GMT by Dez
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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in other news, i got a bit of a score on ebay. ive been looking for a sherpa drum brake axle (pre-82 was drum, after was discs) for ohhh, about 2 years on and off now, with nothing at all turning up. i think the discs ruin the front of this car, so i want drums. then amazingly, a compete stock rover p2 axle appears on there! well, complete bar for drums and brake shoes- but its got the drum brake spindles, hubs, steering arms, trackrods, and even a complete spare set of springs. in other words, enough to make it work with a bit of brake adapt-age. i got it for a pretty good price too, just over 70 quid all-in, and half of that was delivery. it turned up yesterday- it looks manky as hell, but actually underneath the huge amounts of dried up old grease and mud, its actually in pretty good nick. the hub centrecaps are pretty cool, and so well engineered- they screw on- the spindles, the bit I'm really after- it was sized when it arrived, but on inspection it turned out to not be the kingpins as expected, but a dry trackrod end! when i removed the trackrods, the spindles turn smoothly and freely, with only the merest hint of play. some fresh grease would probably see them good, but i think theyll get rebushed anyway. the wheel bearings are perfect, and on the whole it all came apart very easily with little resistance. so, i started to strip it down a little, removed the trackrods, hubs and backplates, and got as far as the kingpins before admitting defeat. i need to use a press to get them out, which hopefully i can use my mates today to remove them.
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How the Feck did i miss this!!! There is some excellent stuff in here, it looks like i will be glued to this while i read the whole lot properly from the start.
I like your style Dez!
James
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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glad you got sorted for drums, I did find you an early sherpa front end up here, but it was 100 quid, and the guy wouldn't let me cut it off to remove it must'ave forgot to pm you! and those tyres we talked about at stevenage - 5.50x18's - want em chucked in for essex as well?
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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adi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,426
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Just spent hours reading this whole thread as I'm off work ill and in bed, and it took my mind off it I prefer the huge disc brakes personally, and are the drum brakes going to be fit for purpose? Also just a thought, but couldn't the redundant power steering pump be used to make up a tipping rear bed? Wouldn't be much work and would be an awesome addition
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b7
Part of things
Posts: 116
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Awesome build. Will be keeping an eye on this one!
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2012 BMW 520d Touring MSport 2006 Golf GTI TSI Previous 1965 Triumph Herald 12/50 in Royal Blue 1989 BMW 325i Convertible (C2.7 powered)
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A_d_a_m
Kinda New
86' Polo Designer Coupe S ( poor quality wobbly children's play pony Sh#* )
Posts: 9
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Love this, will be waiting for updates Adam.
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ive just sat her for 4 hours ready this on the ps3 . misses has konked out on sofa and i got no feeling in my watsoever but wat an inspirational build and the attention to detail . peeerfect i take my hat off to you sir bloody good work
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Feb 10, 2012 23:34:29 GMT
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glad you got sorted for drums, I did find you an early sherpa front end up here, but it was 100 quid, and the guy wouldn't let me cut it off to remove it must'ave forgot to pm you! and those tyres we talked about at stevenage - 5.50x18's - want em chucked in for essex as well? nah you never told me kev, id have been interested if you had! kinda still am i suppose, maybe..... and a deffo yes on the tyres. ile be in touch sometime after monday about that other engine pickup too.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Feb 10, 2012 23:48:19 GMT
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Just spent hours reading this whole thread as I'm off work ill and in bed, and it took my mind off it I prefer the huge disc brakes personally, and are the drum brakes going to be fit for purpose? Also just a thought, but couldn't the redundant power steering pump be used to make up a tipping rear bed? Wouldn't be much work and would be an awesome addition its hard to explain, but really you have to come from a traditional hotrodding background to understand why discs are such a bad thing. visually they ruin it, same as radial tyres would. in real terms, discs arent really any 'better' than drums- i read an article somewhere a while ago about them not actually being as efficient either. the only real reasons anything and everything has discs these days is simple- lack of maintainence and lack of mechanical sympathy/intuitive driving. people expect to be able to scream along full chat then slam all-on hard a few times at the last minute to stop, which can induce the drum-brake weakpoint- fade. discs don't suffer from fade and don't require adjusting, so are more idiot proof. given the type of vehicle and the fact it wont just be driven into the ground like a modern car, drums will be fine. especially as theyll be large 12" diameter, 3" wide ones off a vehicle with a fully laden weight of nearly 3 tons. and theres simply no need for tipper bed- the only people who need tippers are builders and people who offer to tarmac your drive on the cheap
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Feb 10, 2012 23:50:42 GMT
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How the Feck did I miss this!!! There is some excellent stuff in here, it looks like I will be glued to this while I read the whole lot properly from the start. I like your style Dez! James Awesome build. Will be keeping an eye on this one! Love this, will be waiting for updates Adam. ive just sat her for 4 hours ready this on the ps3 . misses has konked out on sofa and I got no feeling in my watsoever but wat an inspirational build and the attention to detail . peeerfect I take my hat off to you sir bloody good work thanks everyone. I'm hoping to make some good progress on this soon, its getting to the point where i could really use the workshop space, and really do with having it on the road to use as well!
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adi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,426
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Feb 11, 2012 12:34:24 GMT
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On the tipper front, I was just suggesting it as a thought for "showing what you can do" as you mentioned earlier in the thread, not suggesting you were a traveller of some sort
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Any progress since DEZ?? Cool as hell wee pick-up that.
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drums from cold if properly maintained are better as there is more pad area.
They just don't like lack of adjustment, dust and too much heat.
Some wagons still run drums.....
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Any progress since DEZ?? Cool as hell wee pick-up that. yep, there has been some progress, its now got a finished prop(thanks to some parts donor-age from KFW, much appreciated!) that i did ages ago and is all fitted now. the fuel tanks been leaded up so thats done, the drum brake conversion is about finished bar for paint and some new service parts, and its got a different dash and different seats. so not much really ile do a proper update or two when i get time, but it is now on hold for a bit for a couple of reasons. one, I'm busy as f-k with work, two I'm trying to finish the model A, and three ive maybe kinda possibly bought another donor cab to facilitate with finishing the roof without having to scratch-build it, but i cant have it just yet until its replacement lands in the country. more on all this as it happens
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dez, hows it going? after reading through this thread and seeing you go diesel, ive decided to do something different with my 100e prefect and I'm sticking a sierra TD engine in her look forward to seeing more progress and ill start a build thread on mine when i get stuff done on it :L
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Nobody dies a virgin, because lifes curse word us ALL
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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well, its time. I'm starting on this again. after much indecision on what the hell I'm doing on all my projects, the financial upheaval of a house purchase has forced me to prioritise a little. ile have 3 or 4 'keepers', of which this will be one, and by far the most practical, which means i need to get it working! first, ile do those updates on the prop and stuff i mentioned. these pics were dated as being from march!! way back at the essex swapmeet, KFW gave me some iveco props to molest for the approprite bits to connect to make one up for this. i already had the sherpa prop end for the axle (it came with it when i bought it from the scrappy), and i had a prop flange to fit the gearbox already, but the issue i had was neither had a slider, and i needed one. kev gave me these- which with a bit of splitting UJs and swapping bits round gave me a flange to fit the gearbox with a slider section attached to it. like so- my prop is quite short so is 1 peice unlike the whopping great iveco job that was in a couple of sections as it was about 27ft long. these are the two ends of it, the female section of the slider, and the sherpa section to fit the axle. theyve both been machined back to remove the old bits of prop, and the iveco slider section has been reduced in daimeter to the same spigot size as the sherpa bit so they can fit in opposite ends of a bit of tube. the sherpa bit is for a tube around 60mm or so (i cant remember exactly) whereas the iveco was for a 75mm one or something like that. an appropriate size length of exhaust tube was bought especially and we were good to go! the tube was cut to length then the sections were knocked together and set up in the lathe to true it. if it had been 2" longer it wouldnt have fit! a lathe tool was set up as a pointer to true it up. i got it down to the thickness of the layer of black primer on the tube and decided that was good enough no gap- gap- it really was that good! then, i missed out a laod of pics where i welded it as choppy 'fed' the lathe, moslty cos i didnt have enough hands to weld and take pics. once it was all done it was checked again for trueness and was the same, so i don't think itll need balancing. here it is fitted up- it was all quite easy really!
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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no fuel tank pics yet, cos ive not taken them. or ones of the fuel lines. or the new rad. will endeavour to take some tomorrow have a few (again, far too few!) pics of me doing something else though. i decided to have a crack at a bit id been putting off for a while to get me back into things, and more importantly, start to tie up my floor making. i decided to make the sills/door shuts! i had to put a bend on a bit of 1" box to do the step part, so it followed the curve of the bottom of the door. 1" was the right size as it just sat below the door to 'frame' it, and was the right width to fit into the step on the inner door skin. i did it using the usual cut/bend/weldup cuts method i use. it was then mocked into position (but not until id made a duplicate with the same curve ofr the other side), ans welded onto the A+B pillars. here it is with a cardboard template filling the gap between it and the floor framing- this pic shows the curve a bit better. its not much of a curve, but its enough to make it look 'right'. and also to make that panel that fits to it a total curse word to make! but, a bit of marking up, cutting and folding, and ive turned the cardboard template into a metal version. 3 sides were straightforward. the 4th one was not! i had to put a past-90 deg(the panel actually lops back on itelf a touch) 3/4" wide at one end 1" wide at the other tapering lip along a very subtley but evenly curved edge nearly 3 foot long. it was a lot of back and forth from the car to the bench checking for fit, but i got there in the end- i did consider not having rivetted lips on it like all the other panels and just welding in a flat steel panel, but i soon put such silly thoughts out of my head and got on with it! its now all drilled ready to rivet on (85 rivets on this one!) but ive got to reassemble my new bead roller before i can finish it off and rivet it on.
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