Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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thanks for the manual link ben. its proved useful already- more on that soon. rob- i agree. looks very at home. the extra bulk of it fills the bay out nicely. chairchild- they're around 125hp stock for this model. not got the torque figures to hand but its pretty huge, 170ft/lb-ish. and thats stock  its out of a 5.6ton minibus. itll be geared to take advantage of the torque so should be pretty lively. kev did a 20 second quarter in his late '70s F250 runnig one of these, and that weights 2.2 tons, on landrover tyres. I'm aiming for an all up weight between 3/4 and a ton. so it shouldnt be too shabby performance wise. phoenixescort- . thanks, i do try to be through/methodical with my write ups, for my benefit as much as anyone elses! more to come soon in the 'sh1t i got done over xmas' update....... |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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well, first bit was getting the engine in the right place. this involved removing the A-pillar gearbox loop cos its 2" too short cos of the bulk of the iveco gearbox, the back part of the tunnel, and the associated bits of tunnel framing that meet it. the loop will go back in albeit a bit taller, with a couple of new bits of framework, so I wont have created too much extra work there, thankfully. the only other bit getting in the way was the massively long clutch release arm, so ive chopped it off for the mo. once its in and mounted ile then make that work. removing that lot allowed me to get it in place, at the right height and tailshaft angle, centralised and far enough back to look right. I then made another big over-elaborate front engine mount, this time batwing style to pick up on the original front engine mounts. it fills up the space at the front of the engine bay nicely too.    I then bolted on the original front section of exhaust that came with the engine, that actually fits and looks suprisingly good. I think itll keep this but with few inches added on the end in stainless and then heat wrapped, until I get bored and then make something stupider. you can see the way the engine mount fills up the gap a bit in this first pic too-     you can also see ive been playing with the spaghetti to make it work. this is where bens link to the manual came in very handy, as iveco didnt use coloured tracers on the wiring to differentiate them, they actually have individual numbers printed as a tracer on each wire! so its dead easy to identify whats what once the loom is opened up- providing you have the manual telling you what each code means. I identified what I needed to make it run, make the gauges work, and removed the rest- a big tacho inducer coil and the associated gubbins and wires that fits behind the water pump and another sensor for this that goes in the bellhousing, and a few other heat sensors. its now as simple as it can be, and I have about 8 wires. |
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Last Edit: Jan 2, 2012 23:49:19 GMT by Dez
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skinnylew
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,673
Club RR Member Number: 11
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looking good, that engine mount is beautiful!
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Brilliant build dez, just read through the entire thread and I'm truely stunned  this is going to be one heck of an awsome beast when finished Do you have any plans in tuning that engine? I.E more boost and more fuel pressure = big black smoke cloud |
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Nobody dies a virgin, because lifes curse word us ALL
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Looking good. I was going to ask about how you'd deal with the odd (it seemed odd to me, anyway) crossmember engine mount. Far more elegant that the original. Glad the link to the workshop manuals has proved useful  |
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring. |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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nick- yes once its up and runnig and on the road, ie be having a fiddle ben- i did originally want to keep it and mod it to fit, but it was just too massive to fit, and weighed a bloody ton too! the new mount is all 1/4" plate and still weighs only half as much! |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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well, ive been making more progress in the evenings. fuel tank this time. I did plan to make a tank from scratch, but I was donated something that was 'half right' by a very generous R-Rer, so ive chopped that up and made it fit, as its saved me a lot of time. I took a load of 'before' pics but my cameras managed to eat them, so the first pic I have is of it cut down to fit in the chassis. here ive cut 1.5" straight off each end, taking the end panels with it, which makes it fit between the chassis rails and also looses a bit if grot around where a tank strap was on one end. it also meant I could get int to knock most of the dents out too. youll also see ive had to scallop it out for the diff.  heres how it sits underneath, blocked up to height-  plently of clearance, in fact ive now dropped it down an inch to give more room to the inlet/outlet/gauge sender as there was so much room underneath. the inside was reasonably clean, no rust just a fair bit of varnish, half a filler cap locking mech and about a cupful of sand?! ive no idea what this tank is actually off, it was fitted to a '50s coachbuilt ambulance, but definately isnt original to that as the filler neck had been cut off and moved then blanked off with a return going into it, so what it was originally for must have been petrol engined. there was also two sets of tank strap marks on it. it has a smiths 1-wire fuel pickup/gauge sender unit like most 70s british stuff, and is certainly no earlier than that I would expect, as its MMA welded then lead washed rather than being leaded together. but the only markings I can find on it anywhere are '18g' stamped on the endplates and baffles(yeah, its baffled too!), which I took to mean 18 gallon. I was guessing at something like a 109 or 101 landy as the construction is very similar to the smaller 88 tanks ive worked with, but google says no, so I really have no idea. heres one of the endplates all cleaned up, with the bits of outer skin ground off the lip-   this is now ready to drop straight back in, and weld up, like so-  the other end required a little more work, it had had mud/dirt collecting on the lower lip which had caused some rust, so I replaced the lower 1.5" and the return lip and corners before refitting it-  you can see ive also removed the old filler neck and its support there too. and heres the diff cutout all plated in and welded up too-   annoyingly one of the bottom corners to this is slightly misshapen, as it had a hell of a dent there I couldnt totally get out in the limited space I had inside the tank. luckily it wont really be seen, unless youre a worm. and here it is fitted into place-    next job- make some mounts for it, fit the filler neck(which will go in through the original filler neck hole in the endplate), weld up that hole where the neck was moved, and decide where to fit the return. then itll be ready for leak testing, and some lead if there is any pinholes (probably inevitable with that much weld going on!) even doing all this I will have saved hours and hours over making all the baffles and endplates up from scratch, so I'm very happy with the result. |
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Last Edit: Jan 4, 2012 11:08:52 GMT by Dez
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,399
Club RR Member Number: 84
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Dammit, I knew I forgot to ask santa for something - metal fabrication skills...
you probably get tired of hearing this, but another excellent looking part there. Subtle enough it could have been plucked from a scrapyard, but once you look closer plenty of custom features to make it fit the truck. amazing.
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Colonelk
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,742
Club RR Member Number: 83
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Am I the only one I cant see the pictures?  |
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fantastic as always,
hope i'm not teaching you to suck eggs, but for leak testing i've used a low pressure air source and soapy water, pressurise tank only about 1psi or so, then brush soapy water onto welds etc and check for bubbles. at least that way you can re-weld if needed without having to dry out water from the inside.
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427
Part of things
Praise The Lowered
Posts: 622
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Always like seeing progress on this.
2 question. Are you doing to paint the body and are you going to cover the engine?
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dammit, I knew I forgot to ask santa for something - metal fabrication skills... you probably get tired of hearing this, but another excellent looking part there. Subtle enough it could have been plucked from a scrapyard, but once you look closer plenty of custom features to make it fit the truck. amazing. spot on tony. thats just the look i like, so people arent quite sure if its an obscure stock part, or custom made like you say. i like to confuse em Am I the only one I cant see the pictures? id assume everyone else can from the comments? i don't think ive maxed my photobucket, so they should be showing. fantastic as always, hope i'm not teaching you to suck eggs, but for leak testing i've used a low pressure air source and soapy water, pressurise tank only about 1psi or so, then brush soapy water onto welds etc and check for bubbles. at least that way you can re-weld if needed without having to dry out water from the inside. yeah, we know what were doing when it comes to leak-testing(my silversmith mate choppy helps with stuff like that, as he'll do the leading), and we use more or less the technique you say. we use it for rads and header tanks too, but at a bit higher pressure. Always like seeing progress on this. 2 question. Are you doing to paint the body and are you going to cover the engine? no and no. sort of. ive got a bonnet that fits-ish, wont need much tweaking, but i don't want to run it unless absolutely neccessary, so maybe only in the snow or something. i don't want to paint, it, but i can see the upkeep of a bare metal finish being too much for a daily driver over here. I'm tempted to laquer it, but then that just brings up a whole different set of problems. we'll see i suppose. |
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Dez so glad the tank was ok.You even make a old thats sat in my hedge look great.Its like turning water into wine.
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Peace,Max signature height = 80px
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This is really great. Nice fabrication as per usual!
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1989 Mini MG 1275 ~ 1987 VW Polo ~ 1989 Citroen 2CV ~ 1998 VW T4 ~ 2006 Volvo XC70
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If you're going to keep it un-intercooled have you thought about a squirt of water injection and bumping up the boost?
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1994 Rover Metro
1994 Peugeot 405 Estate
1991 Rover Metro Gti 16v
2001 Fiat Seicento Sporting
1999 Fiat Punto 1.2
1994 Peugeot 106 Xnd (x3)
1991 Westfield 7
2004 Landrover 110 SW
2003 Seat Ibiza 1.9Tdi Sport
1959 Ford 107e Prefect
1992 Suzuki Vitara
2008 Skoda Fabia
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dez so glad the tank was ok.You even make a old thats sat in my hedge look great.Its like turning water into wine. well, thanks for letting me have it pete. its certainly saved me quite a bit of time and effort doing it from scratch! peter- thanks very much tom- i don't know what I'm going to do regards tuning yet. first priority is get it up and running as is, get a big enough rad in there, then see what space i have left to see if ile be going for an intercooler or not. if not, ile be looking at other options like you mention |
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mat91
Part of things
Posts: 399
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awesome build fella
and re your intercooler problems why not build a water to air cooler into the inlet manifold or similar as its what i plan on doing eventually
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The stupid is everywhere |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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next little update- tank is now mounted, and has a filler neck too. the mounts are totally OTT 40x6 plate. the taps pick up on some existing holes in the back end of the chasiss, where the body mounted originally i think. i drilled lots of fancy chamfered holes in em to lighten em up though. they make em look pretty good too the non-filler end was quite straightforward-   filler end was a bit more tricky as one strap ran striaght across where the filler neck needed to be. i got around this by making the filler out of tubing thicker than it needed to be, and welding the strap to it, then the other side to the tank lip, making it structural.   the final postioning is pretty good i think- theres 1.5" over the top to the bed floor to allow for the pipework and wires, yet it sits up a good couple of inches above the crossmember so it doesnt hang down too low and isnt that visible behind the rear valance, so it doesnt give it that 'fat arsed' look a lot of this style of pickup suffer from.   ive not measured its volume, but i estimate it to be 15-16 gallons if it was 18 to start with as the stampings would suggest, which is really rather large for a hot rod. only got to weld in the return line now and it can be checked for leaks and sealed appropriately. then if i run some fuel lines and some basic ignition wiring, i can go for first fireup! |
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smurf
Part of things
Posts: 829 
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Impressive as always dez, cant wait to see a clip of it running
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Laser cutting and cnc punching (up to 3mm stainless and ali, up to 6mm mild steel)
Mail me a dxf file and i'll get you a price
Metal folding and custom fabrication service also available
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Good stuff man! Every time I think "oh, my welding is pretty neat nowadays" I see some of yours and realise how wibblepoo I really am!
You had any luck with the heater matrix jobbie you got off me?
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Ax GTi Turbo
this is going to be one heck of an awsome beast when finished 
