|
|
|
Cracking door skin!
For the 'holes' just mix up a little primer & touch them in with a brush, a couple of coats. Then do the same with some topcoat. Let it set and then flat back for the new topcoats.
I have found (Chris may disagree) that you can mix small amounts by using a teaspoon. One teaspoon of paint to half a teaspoon of hardener with literally a few drops of thinners if required. Never had any issues mixing tiny batches like this for touching in small chips or scratches.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cracking door skin! For the 'holes' just mix up a little primer & touch them in with a brush, a couple of coats. Then do the same with some topcoat. Let it set and then flat back for the new topcoats. I have found (Chris may disagree) that you can mix small amounts by using a teaspoon. One teaspoon of paint to half a teaspoon of hardener with literally a few drops of thinners if required. Never had any issues mixing tiny batches like this for touching in small chips or scratches. How the hell can I disagree - I do the same thing
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
that's good, I'm doing it right then!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'll have a go at this, I'd never have thought about making up a small amount!
|
|
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
|
|
broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
|
|
Aug 19, 2019 17:03:36 GMT
|
Nice to see top coat going down. Hows the rubbing to 600 going?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 19, 2019 19:07:45 GMT
|
Nice to see top coat going down. Hows the rubbing to 600 going? I've done the drivers side, roof, heater bubble and I'm half way through the passengers side. The engine bay was sparyed with no hiccups, I used the 0.8mm 150ml gun to dust the areas I'd gone to the primer before using the 1.2mm 600ml gun. Whilst I was at it the bonnet and boot hinges were painted. I've still to sort the passengers side inner wing but the drivers was sanded to 1500 grit and a polish Whilst the paint was drying I cut some square holes into the door skin for window seal clips but I haven't progressed on it, the inner door needs finishing ready for priming and mating the 2 together. I managed to get mrs jim to help out! I I'll probably do this after sorting the shell, September is pretty busy so I need to get the big spray jobs done asap
|
|
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
|
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2019 19:18:12 GMT
|
With the bodywork taking a lifetime I've been looking at superchargers - I wrote my dissertation on this years ago, it's all theory but the practical side needs to be worked out. I managed to find a bad ebay listing so figured I'd take the plunge! It's not far off being the right length and the current idea would be run it as a draw through setup as going blow through would ideally be a full injection setup. I think I'll need to fabricate a new inlet manifold and pulleys but itll be a fun project and one that I'll take lightly. Plus boost and whining noises
|
|
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
|
|
broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
|
|
Aug 20, 2019 20:11:04 GMT
|
💨💨💨💨💨💨
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2019 22:43:19 GMT
|
Yeah baby!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'm liking the supercharger idea. There is a guy I know from Darlington who has fitted a Mercedes charger to his xflow in a mk2. He didn't make a new inlet manifold, but I think he may have machined it down a bit. I suppose there may be a bit more room in a mk2 as the bonnet doesn't swoop down so much. He's put lots of photos on the mk2 owners club FB page if you do a search. It may help with bracket/ pulley ideas etc.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks Jonsey I'll have a look into that, I need to make some measurements when the engine is back in the bay. I was guessing at height as I remember when I had the Timavo trumpets and a domed foam filter from Burton the filter touched the bonnet as I had a clean patch!
I'll have a look at the comparison between the Mercedes M45 and the mini as I think the noses are different in length, a bonus for me long term when I go to blow through is that the mini M45 has a water pump on the tail end of the blower which would be used for a charge cooler setup.
That position looks good on the Mk2 though!
|
|
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
|
|
|
|
|
I know a few people who have done this to a Pinto with good results. Arte you going to use a Renault 5 Turbo carb for it's blow through capacity? One guy I know managed to source a set of blow through 45's from an Esprit turbo!
|
|
96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-( 10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily 03 Import Forester STi - Sold 98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-( 99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold 02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX 88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
|
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2019 18:24:55 GMT
|
I'd not looked at pintos with them, I've been doing some research over the last few weeks and this a quick breakdown of what I'd like to do. Using the 1590 that I've got: •drop the static CR to 8.5:1 min 8 would be better •run the boost to 7psi approx (I'll work this out - thr dissertation was 10 to 12 psi which is too high for now) •find a lucas distributor that I can play with and lock the advance off (still researching this) Draw through setups Weber 28/36 DCD Pros: •There's jets and tuning parts •I have spares Cons •weighty when hanging off the back of a blower - they crack inlet manifold as they are! Ford had to add supports to the manifold •height I think itll be too close to the bonnet but to be confirmed SU's Pros •they work! •not a complicated carb Cons •I don't know a lot about them! Fazer 600s I know it's a weber but hear me out! I bought 2 sets of fazer 600 carbs for the cortina years ago but never progressed far from making a basic manifold. It's a CV carb like the SU so I'd use these and they have a 34mm choke like a weber dcoe 40 would have Pros •they were cheap and gathering dust •small and can be mounted anywhere Cons •more head scratching to get them running •I know little about them other than basic information I found for them being used on a crossflow Blow through Weber 28/36 They leak from the throttle shafts as standard! But the 32/36 has been used on blow through setups in Australia From what I've read so far I'd need to change the float to plastic from brass, Bush the shafts along with end seals, runs pilot tube above the throttle to the shaft to stop it blowing out, pressurise the fuel bowl to make sure fuel comes through as it should under boost and change the gasket to neoprene bug I'll CAD some up and get a local firm to cut these It wouldn't need anything modifying for inlets or throttle linkage and I have some spares but not enough to build a carb but given the modifications I'm not writing off a serviceable carb Su/ renault 5 They work and can take power as far as my research has shown but they're few and far between which Jack's the price up! Given the prices I've seen off expired ebay listings I'd sack carbs off and build a speeduino ecu. SUs would need an elbow to work with the GT manifold which is more fab work than the renault 5 solex which is an adaptor plate Fazer 600s - i don't see the point in fitting itbs with a blower. Unless they're the lotus dhla dellortos but I'm not snoop dogg - I cant make it rain dollar bills! Out of these ideas the 2 taht stand out are the fazer draw through and the weber blow through I'm excited about the challenge as it's been 10 years since I started writing the dissertation and it's fun for me as I'm an engineer! Allard did it back in the day and even built a 1650cc methanol powered anglia making 220 brake back in the 60s! Here's an anglia to finish off my rambling!
|
|
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
|
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2019 16:37:04 GMT
|
Just a quick update, I laid 2 coats on the body last week - badly... Its textured! I'm clearly doing something wrong and I think the issue I'm having with the finish is looking down to not doing a thorough job of cleaning the gun! I've tried to flat it but it's that bad I'm literally taking off these new coats- not ideal! Its been in soak for 24 hrs I'm finding more in areas that I've missed as I saw remnants of primer! I'm not entirely sure if this I'd sll of my issues but given I'm now out of paint I'm considering my options- do I carry on given the mistakes I've made already or do I concede and have someone fix the paint and apply clear coat giving me a better finish. Sorry for the rant but I'm not sure what to do?
|
|
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
|
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2019 17:16:16 GMT
|
To be fair - you've done good work elsewhere on the paint, so rack it up to learning, let it harden and sand it smooth before having another crack at it. Don't let it get you down!
|
|
1968 Mini MkII, 1968 VW T1, 1967 VW T1, 1974 VW T1, 1974 VW T1 1303, 1975 Mini 1000 auto, 1979 Chevette, 1981 Cortina, 1978 Mini 1000 1981 Mini City, 1981 Mini van, 1974 Mini Clubman, 1982 Metro City, 1987 Escort, 1989 Lancia Y10, 1989 Cavalier, 1990 Sierra, 1990 Renault 19, 1993 Nova, 1990 Citroen BX, 1994 Ford Scorpio, 1990 Renault Clio, 2004 Citroen C3, 2006 Citroen C2, 2004 Citroen C4, 2013 Citroen DS5. 2017 DS3 130 Plenty of other scrappers!
|
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2019 18:19:03 GMT
|
Agreed ^. You've ended up with a good job elsewhere so some rubbing down and some more paint and more experience gained, has to be better value than paying someone a premium to do it. Sorry for the "do as I say and not as I d0"😁.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2019 19:53:29 GMT
|
Jim - The paint is going on way too thick / dry - there's probably a combination of factors causing this - could be the gun / alongside air pressure / paint viscosity & experience - why not go to just getting single panels painted like a door to gain experience rather than waste paint & effort on the bodyshell / several panels in one go - I appreciate that this is easier said than done has like me you will be tight on space - please advise on how you are measuring your paint / hardener / thinners out (volume or weight) - what air pressure you have at the spraygun and any other factors that you think maybe effecting the finish - If you would prefer to talk the issues through down the end of the phone - PM me for my number - Chris
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jim - The paint is going on way too thick / dry - there's probably a combination of factors causing this - could be the gun / alongside air pressure / paint viscosity & experience - why not go to just getting single panels painted like a door to gain experience rather than waste paint & effort on the bodyshell / several panels in one go - I appreciate that this is easier said than done has like me you will be tight on space - please advise on how you are measuring your paint / hardener / thinners out (volume or weight) - what air pressure you have at the spraygun and any other factors that you think maybe effecting the finish - If you would prefer to talk the issues through down the end of the phone - PM me for my number - Chris Hi Chris, I'd set the gun to 30psi when full throttle and thought I'd got the gun set to a decent amount of paint supply. I used a paint measuring cup like we discussed but no thinners after last time- it looked thin enough to spray, it was a hot day too especially in the garage which might have affected things? I will start doing the inside of panels which was my intention but September is so busy for us I went spray or bust knowing that I'll be losing the weather advantage by time I can do a full job. I'll have a play with some heaters perhaps? Thank you for your advice too Chris, I had no idea about the factors involved in spraying!
|
|
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
|
|
|
|
|
To be fair - you've done good work elsewhere on the paint, so rack it up to learning, let it harden and sand it smooth before having another crack at it. Don't let it get you down! Agreed ^. You've ended up with a good job elsewhere so some rubbing down and some more paint and more experience gained, has to be better value than paying someone a premium to do it. Sorry for the "do as I say and not as I d0"😁. Thank you gents, I'm just the frustrated with myself ivr been getting up at 6am to get an extra hour on the car for thr last 6 months - I'm exhausted!
|
|
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
|
|
|
|
|
Jim - The paint is going on way too thick / dry - there's probably a combination of factors causing this - could be the gun / alongside air pressure / paint viscosity & experience - why not go to just getting single panels painted like a door to gain experience rather than waste paint & effort on the bodyshell / several panels in one go - I appreciate that this is easier said than done has like me you will be tight on space - please advise on how you are measuring your paint / hardener / thinners out (volume or weight) - what air pressure you have at the spraygun and any other factors that you think maybe effecting the finish - If you would prefer to talk the issues through down the end of the phone - PM me for my number - Chris Hi Chris, I'd set the gun to 30psi when full throttle and thought I'd got the gun set to a decent amount of paint supply. I used a paint measuring cup like we discussed but no thinners after last time- it looked thin enough to spray, it was a hot day too especially in the garage which might have affected things? I will start doing the inside of panels which was my intention but September is so busy for us I went spray or bust knowing that I'll be losing the weather advantage by time I can do a full job. I'll have a play with some heaters perhaps? Thank you for your advice too Chris, I had no idea about the factors involved in spraying! Jim give Chris your number it will be much easier than on here.
|
|
|
|
|