Welcome Guest. Please Login or Register.

Clicking on eBay [or other affiliations] may result in referral commission being paid if a purchase is made.

Guide me through valve clearance setting!

« Prev
1
Next »

DavidB Posted hell of a lot Posts: 5,794	Guide me through valve clearance setting!DavidB @station
	Jan 19, 2012 20:14:40 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Bit of an amateur when it comes to this! I lost my feeler gauge so bought a new one today. It's on a Skoda 1.3 Spi engine, which could definitely do with a bit of adjusting! I have the eight valves 1 - 8, I understand these principles: 'Rule of 9' (ie when valve 8 is fully open then you adjust valve 1, valve 5 open, then valve 4, etc), When a valve is open, the spring is in a compressed state, Feeler gauge will feel 'sticky' between the rocker and the valve as if there is some 'drag', but not enough to hold it in place, I put the car in gear and push it forwards and backward to open/close the valves. I don't totally understand was is truly 'open' though? Can this really be judged just by looking at the spring in the suspended state between 'going up' and 'going back down again'? Can you check timing marks anywhere? Is there a best way of holding the feeler gauge - is it OK to have it bent a little to clear obstacles as long as you can feel the resistance on the blade? I've had a go at it today, but will do it correctly tomorrow now I've practised - any tips/tricks/corrections/observations, etc. Thanks.


	Reply Quote

Jenn Part of things Posts: 929	Guide me through valve clearance setting!Jenn @jeminid
	Jan 19, 2012 20:36:39 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Due to the camshaft profile, the valve dwells fully open for a while, so its fairly easy to gauge. The feeler gauge is flexible enough to bend into position, and your feeling for a slight drag on the feeler gauge when checking. Your method sounds good! The Skoda engine is easy to work on, removing the spark plugs will make it easier to move, and you will get less inertia when the cylinders are on the compression stroke. Or stick a 30mm socket on the end of the crank and turn it that way.


	Reply Quote

dude Europe Posts: 2,032	Guide me through valve clearance setting!dude @dude
	Jan 19, 2012 20:39:15 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	This is a push rod engine right? No problem bending the feeler gauge a bit. Don't bother rocking the car, put it in neutral and turn the engine with a socket wrench, turn it clockwise on the crank pulley. When a valve is fully open the spring is fully compressed, there will be a delay before it starts closing again, i.e starts coming back up. This is where you want to leave it when you adjust the closed valve. Good luck
	Now playing: 1971 Pontiac Lemans - redneck-o-tastic Ford P100 - Ultimate bodgery merc turbo diesel transplant 1994 BMW e34 525TDS - No working title

	Reply Quote

DavidB Posted hell of a lot Posts: 5,794	Guide me through valve clearance setting!DavidB @station
	Jan 19, 2012 20:50:28 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Thanks! I find it easier to rock the car to be honest, and saves having to take the wheel off/jack it up. It is a pushrod engine! I was 'worried' about the fully open part being in sync with the corresponding valve (1 + 8 for example, 8 being nearly on the peak and 1 not being at the required height to check correctly). What differences should this see - apart from less rattlyness (maybe)? It's already responsive, but the mpg is way out from what it should be.


	Reply Quote

ChasR RR Helper motivation Posts: 10,309 Club RR Member Number: 170	Guide me through valve clearance setting!ChasR @chasr Club Retro Rides Member 170
	Jan 19, 2012 23:18:26 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	It should pull more cleanly all through the rev range. IME slightly too open valve clearances tend to give you a slightly more responsive low end but with a flat top end. Another thing. I am not sure if it were me (if so, correct me in the error of my ways!) but using the drag method I always ended up with clearances as large as when I started as soon as I began to tighten the locking nut (almost as if tightening forced or created more clearance than desired). That was unless I had the feeler gauge almost stuck in the rocker when adjusting or compensated for the clearance gap increase when tightening the rockers by turning the pushrod slightly anti clockwise, so as to end up with the correct gap once all done as per the manual. I never really had myself down as someone going mental with tightening things either...
	'79 Honda NC-50 '02 Mercedes R230 SL500 '03 BMW M3 Coupe '08 BMW E91 325d M-Sport Touring Pre-LCI '16 Yamaha XSR700 My car history and exploits: leylandlegends.com

	Reply Quote

dungbug Posted a lot 'Ooligan! Posts: 2,852	Guide me through valve clearance setting!dungbug @dungbug
	Jan 24, 2012 7:11:09 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Only thing I'd do (when I was doing my bug) was do the clearances when the engine is stone cold, sounds like you've got the idea though.
	Past: 13 VW Beetles from 1967 - 1974 Bay Window Campers (1973 & 1974) Mini's (1992 Cooper lookalike & 1984 '25 Anniversary) MK2 Polo Coupe S (1984 & 1986) MK2 Polo Breadvan (1981 & 1984) MK4 Escort (1989) MK2 Granada Based Hearse (seriously) Fiat Uno 60S (1986) Punto 60S (1998) Cinq (1997) 1998 Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat 2003 Ford KA Current: 2004 Ford Focus (barely alive)

	Reply Quote

Retro Rides Privacy Statement