will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
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Ill try that Tuesday at uni I should be able to get on the four poster with the digital tracking! Ill report back!
As the rear spring hold the rear camera at max if I add an extra coil to the rear, this will make it stiffer with more preload! Right?
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I she's twitchy get it on a laser bay and dial in about 1 degree of toe.
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1994 Rover Metro 1994 Peugeot 405 Estate 1991 Rover Metro Gti 16v 2001 Fiat Seicento Sporting 1999 Fiat Punto 1.2 1994 Peugeot 106 Xnd (x3) 1991 Westfield 7 2004 Landrover 110 SW 2003 Seat Ibiza 1.9Tdi Sport 1959 Ford 107e Prefect 1992 Suzuki Vitara 2008 Skoda Fabia
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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As the rear spring hold the rear camera at max if I add an extra coil to the rear, this will make it stiffer with more preload! Right? I'm not sure what you mean by 'the rear spring hold the rear camera at max'? Although unless changing to a completely different spring, I can't think of any situation where adding a coil will make the suspension stiffer.
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You can get it tracked all you like but that won't help you if it's a bump steer issue as tracking gauges are not designed detect that.
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
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What I mean is that the rear springs push the damper upto max so it couldnt go higher. Hence adding a coil will make it stiffer through more preload!
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What I mean is that the rear springs push the damper upto max so it couldnt go higher. Hence adding a coil will make it stiffer through more preload! Are you saying the dampers are at full extension when the car is sat on the ground?
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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I make Seth right on the wheel offset issue - if you look at early FWD cars on struts VS modern ones, negative scrub radius has been increasingly added to many designs over the years for a number of reasons - by running wheels that poke out more, you will be moving closer to zero scrub, the likely effects of that are:
More likely to torque steer or pull under braking More likely to 'wander' around the straight ahead Steering will probably feel lighter
If you are concerned with handling, it may be worth trying some standard offset wheels with similar tyres & pressures to see what, if any, the effects are.
I've mucked about with wheel offsets on RWD cars in testing for oval racing, the effects are noticeable.
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You can get it tracked all you like but that won't help you if it's a bump steer issue as tracking gauges are not designed detect that. they will if you jack the front axle up
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will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
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I do have standard steel wheels I can try! Ill try it tomorrow see if its a major difference
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will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
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so my agenda!
try steel wheels stiffen up the rear anything else i can try before i get it on the ramp on tuesday? as this will be the last chance before next year and I'm driving 700 miles next week!
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,061
Club RR Member Number: 77
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why stiffen the rear? the rear wont have that much effect on the tramlining unless its stupid stiff/soft, or something is seriously out of alignment. which the readings you have posted seem to not suggest try and get the front set up so its either parallel or with toe in. i personally prefer slight toe out for better turn in, but then I'm also rwd
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will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
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Ill set it so it has a total of 1 degree of front toe and set the camber
I want thy rear harder as I scrape with weight
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CIH
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,466
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Ill set it so it has a total of 1 degree of front toe and set the camber I want thy rear harder as I scrape with weight No, don't do that - that's a terribile idea.
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will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
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Dec 10, 2011 17:54:08 GMT
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do what? set it harder or set it to 1° total toe?
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CIH
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,466
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Dec 10, 2011 19:36:47 GMT
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Don't set toe to 1', it'll just muller the curse word out of your tyres and make the steering/tramling even worse. Leave it at stock or set it to zero. I can tell you now the problem isn't the alignment, though.
Without a closer look at the car I'd bet it's buggered tyres.
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will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
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Dec 10, 2011 19:50:41 GMT
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i can understand you saying the tyres, but its been the same through my minilites, on 155/70/13 and on my winter wheels 185/60/14 and with the standard steels today 155/70/13
ive matched the tyres as much as possible
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Dec 11, 2011 18:04:12 GMT
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I'm having problems with going straight, and as micras are very suseptable to road camber to start with, but I feel I'm always correcting something and rarely I can happily sit there with the steering wheel fully straight! Toe in will add straight line stability at the expense of turn in, toe out adds turn in ability but will make the car feel skittish. not hold a straight line.
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1994 Rover Metro 1994 Peugeot 405 Estate 1991 Rover Metro Gti 16v 2001 Fiat Seicento Sporting 1999 Fiat Punto 1.2 1994 Peugeot 106 Xnd (x3) 1991 Westfield 7 2004 Landrover 110 SW 2003 Seat Ibiza 1.9Tdi Sport 1959 Ford 107e Prefect 1992 Suzuki Vitara 2008 Skoda Fabia
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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I can understand you saying the tyres, but its been the same through my minilites, on 155/70/13 and on my winter wheels 185/60/14 and with the standard steels today 155/70/13 ive matched the tyres as much as possible How are they worn? New or part worn tyres? Did they cover many miles before the suspension work?
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Don't set toe to 1', it'll just muller the curse word out of your tyres and make the steering/tramling even worse. Leave it at stock or set it to zero. I can tell you now the problem isn't the alignment, though. Without a closer look at the car I'd bet it's buggered tyres. A million times this. Secondly, the old rule of change one thing at a time applies. Change the toe, in measurable increments, or mark it so you can put it back to where it was if it's worse. Finally, it really does sound as if there's something worn out or loose in there somewhere. Check it all over, thoroughly just to be sure. Goodluck.
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Dec 13, 2011 12:45:16 GMT
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What I mean is that the rear springs push the damper upto max so it couldnt go higher. Hence adding a coil will make it stiffer through more preload! Are you saying the dampers are at full extension when the car is sat on the ground? This. Is your rear suspension at full with weight on it? If not then adding more coils (if you're talking about an otherwise identical spring) will make the rear higher and softer. Pre-load won't increase your spring rate. If it is, it shouldn't be, a road car should not be running pre-load. The only real reason to use pre-load is to allow for ride height changes caused by downforce at running speeds, and I'm guessing that's not a huge issue with your micra .
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