|
|
|
|
|
|
Thinking of doing the above on my Minx. The wattage is the same at peak, but I saw a post (elsewhere) saying relays were a good idea because "halogens seem to draw more current"...
Surely 60W is 60W. But I'm electrically hopeless so I'd appreciate your thoughts...
|
| |
'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
60w is 60w is 60w. Stick them in, it'll be fine. It would probably be better with relays though, as you'll take the strain off old wiring and switches, and allow the bulbs to get a better feed from the battery.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
^WHS.
I'll just add that it's difficult to underestimate the difference that voltage changes make to light output. Merely cleaning up and tightening the earths and terminals, and adding a dedicated (fused!) feed to the headlight switch from the battery makes a vast difference in light output - and the switched were designed for heavy currents so should be fine.
|
| |
|
|
bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
|
|
|
|
|
What they both said, old looms can be terrable at supplying power and the more it needs the more resistance it ceates so the less actually gets there, mainly circuits that are used a lot, heeadlighs and heater motors being the worst affected IME
|
| |
R.I.P photobucket
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I put a relay in the taunus for the highs, the light output improved a bit, but the main difference was that the voltmeter had shown under 12 volts with high beams on, now it almost showed 14! A volt more than the low beams ;D
|
| |
|
|
bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
|
|
|
|
|
will be doing this conversion myself as soon as the new light units arrive. I will post some before and after pics.
Mine are 7 inch sealed beams being replaced with H4 halogens
|
| |
Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks guys. ^ interested to see pics. I'm totally useless with electrics, but there's a local mates rates sparky who could help with relays, needs be. It just seemed the halogen kit was same price as sealed beams and could be less hassle, coming with pilot holders (current lights don't have them, and I need to move sidelights into the headlights).
I couldn't understand why an apparenly same wattage would need relays, everything else being equal. Can see the sense regards switches and wiring generally though.
cheers all.
|
| |
'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
What about using HID bulbs in your new halogens? They use much less current.
|
| |
Koos
|
|
bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
|
|
|
|
|
That is the exact same reason I'm swapping.
|
| |
Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
|
|
Ads 19
Posted a lot
My old r19
Posts: 1,351
|
|
|
|
|
Its not that they need relays. however over time wiring deteriorates. if you were to strip back the insulation how many brakes, or blackened bits would you find. old wiring tends to heat up not to mention chances of mice or humman teeth having a chew somewhere. For the ten mins a relay takes to fit, and the pennys involved its worth it.
|
| |
|
|
