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Oct 24, 2011 21:51:22 GMT
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Probably sounds daft this but here goes. When mucking about with car wiring at home, the norm seems to be crimp connectors like these:  But, these always seem like a poor effort to me. The placca insulation is too hard and the crimp never holds very well. Whenever a spade connector is used on the original wiring loom its more like this:  with either a rigid placca or a rubber insulator, that stays put without needing to be crimped. These seem like a much better solution to me. Does anyone know where I can get the second sort of connector, ideally with a rubber insulator, and also what is the right tool for crimping these things?? All advice gratefully received. CHEERZ |
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1974 Lancia Beta Saloon
1975 Mazda 929 Coupé
1986 Mazda 929 Wagon
1979 Mazda 929 Hardtop
1982 Fiat Argenta 2.0 iniezione elettronica
1977 Toyota Carina TA14
1989 Subaru 1800 Wagon
1982 Hyundai Pony 1200TL 2-dr
1985 Hyundai Pony 1200 GL
1986 Maserati 425 Biturbo
1992 Rover 214 SEi 5-dr
2000 Rover 45 V6 Club
1994 Peugeot 205 'Junior' Diesel
1988 Volvo 760 Turbodiesel Saloon
1992 Talbot Express Autosleeper Rambler
2003 Renault Laguna SPEARS OR REAPERS
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sparkyt
Posted a lot
selling stuff
Posts: 1,767
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Oct 24, 2011 22:00:45 GMT
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First which type of tool are you using for the first crimp if you have the correct tool they work perfectly . The second set of crimp is for loom manufacturing more than home use and the tool is in the RS catalogue not cheap bud
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bortaf
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Oct 24, 2011 22:02:49 GMT
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Last Edit: Oct 24, 2011 22:04:53 GMT by bortaf
R.I.P photobucket
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fogey
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Oct 24, 2011 22:04:05 GMT
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Oct 24, 2011 22:05:08 GMT
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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Oct 24, 2011 22:08:26 GMT
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ditto on the tool for the top set.
"Scissor" crimps, may as well just be crimped by placing them between your teeth. Absolutely useless (mole grips work better!)
ratchet crimps at around the £15-£20 mark work pretty well - but can still occasionally give iffy results. You usually have to squeeze the bejesus out of them too.
I've got a pair of ratchet crimps, which cost around the £35 mark when new - hardly any pressure needed, and give perfect results time after time. I used to take them to work, and use mine instead of the supplied Laser jobbies!
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You're like a crazy backyard genius! |
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When I've had poor results (using the correct ratchet tool), it's been more down to incorrect connector/wire size than anything else  |
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring. |
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I've got both types of decent ratchet crimpers for insulated and non insulated terminals. Personally I prefer the non insulated as more "factory looking. If you trawl autojumble stalls you can often buy bulk non insulated terminals for multi blocks etc as well so worth stocking up on them as you never know when you might need them Paul H |
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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The difference between one crimped with a decent ratchet crimper and the cheapo type is shocking. If you are going to use the cheaper type crimp twice for a better grip.
Personally I solder connectors on then use heat shrink wrap to insulate.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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scruff
Part of things
Posts: 621
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A proper crimp is better than solder as it's less prone to damage from vibration this is because the crimps hold the insualtion properly. They are also easier to do in confined spaces and less dependant on operator skill.
If you do solder and sleeve then se heatshrink with adhesive in it, make a 100% waterproof and much stronger joint than normal stuff.
I tend to use bootlace splice crimps and adhesive lined heat shrink when I have to repair looms, best of both worlds!
The other thing to consider is that the quality of the pre-insulated crimps makes a lot of difference. The cheapo ones are pathetic, the decent ones are much nicer to use. You are supposed to crimp them in 2 places, once on the metal to make the connection once on the insualtion to grip the insualtion. The cheap ones won't take the insulation crimp as the plastic breaks up. A ratchet crimp shoudl do both at once.
The non-insulated crimps are formed in one go with the right tool, forget trying to crimp them without the right tools! Invest in the tooling and it'll last forever.
As for insulating them VWP will sort you out rubber boots, but consider using plastic multi-way plugs and making decent looms with plug breaks in. Loom it all up in PVC tube or regular cable ties adn it'll look much better as well as not rattling!
curse word wiring is a pet hate... can you tell!
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1994 Lotus Esprit - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
1980 Porsche 924 - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
I spy a trend...
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That VWP outfit look like THE BOYS for this sort of carry on, I think i’ll invest a few groat in a proper ratchet crimper and some of those non-insulated terminals. Admittedly all my crimpage to date has been carried out with mole grips which probably explains why its so shat!
I like a nice soldered connection as well Pauldaf44, but it seems a bit overkill to me for putting a terminal on the end of a wire. I soldered all the joints when wiring in the towbar on my rover in preference to using scotchloks, and miraculously its the only car i’ve had where i haven’t had to get involved in the wiring every freakin time i have subsequently used the towbar.
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1974 Lancia Beta Saloon
1975 Mazda 929 Coupé
1986 Mazda 929 Wagon
1979 Mazda 929 Hardtop
1982 Fiat Argenta 2.0 iniezione elettronica
1977 Toyota Carina TA14
1989 Subaru 1800 Wagon
1982 Hyundai Pony 1200TL 2-dr
1985 Hyundai Pony 1200 GL
1986 Maserati 425 Biturbo
1992 Rover 214 SEi 5-dr
2000 Rover 45 V6 Club
1994 Peugeot 205 'Junior' Diesel
1988 Volvo 760 Turbodiesel Saloon
1992 Talbot Express Autosleeper Rambler
2003 Renault Laguna SPEARS OR REAPERS
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,515
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I've often found these guys cheaper than Vehicle Wiring Products. www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/2I've always used the non-insulated sort because I like the way you get a separate crimp over the cable insulation as well as the conductor. I normally solder after crimping too. Its only a pain using these when you fit the terminal and then realise you've forgotten to slip the insulating sleeve over the wire first.... Edit: I got one of these when I started doing the Oxford's loom and it really helped make decent crimps over the really cheapy "pliers" without going to the expense of the ratchet tools. www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/474/category/87 |
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Last Edit: Oct 25, 2011 9:32:39 GMT by Seth
Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,515
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And just to "plug" another company I've had very good dealings with, Autosparks were the place that made up the special HT lead for me for the Herald and I've ordered plenty of other stuff from them too. www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php?content_page=home |
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Oct 25, 2011 11:05:30 GMT
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Useful links. Cheers Seth I've used VWP and been really happy with the service received. |
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring. |
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Oct 25, 2011 11:55:15 GMT
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The difference between one crimped with a decent ratchet crimper and the cheapo type is shocking. If you are going to use the cheaper type crimp twice for a better grip. Personally I solder connectors on then use heat shrink wrap to insulate. Better to crimp, then solder, then insulate. The crimp provides a strong mechanical joint, the solder prevents corrosion, and the heatshrink provides strain relief. But it is a little bit overkill. |
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Oct 25, 2011 12:59:46 GMT
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The ones that I particularly hate are scotchlocks. They just don't work! Ive had more success stripping the insulation and winding wires together with no fastner than I have with scotchlocks.
p.s. don't do the above unless your going to solder as well.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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berendd
Europe
why do I need 3 keys for one car?
Posts: 1,449
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Oct 25, 2011 13:10:34 GMT
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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crimp connector helpstealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Oct 25, 2011 13:43:32 GMT
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Scotchlocks have always been curse word. I always use good quality insulated terminals and good quality crimping tools and have never had any problems. However in some cases (T-ing into an earth for the handbrake for instance) I usually just strip a small bit of insulation back, wrap the end of the new wire round and tape it, as access can be difficult on modern cars without removing most of the interior.
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Oct 25, 2011 14:28:59 GMT
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Scotchlocks have always been curse word. I always use good quality insulated terminals and good quality crimping tools and have never had any problems. However in some cases (T-ing into an earth for the handbrake for instance) I usually just strip a small bit of insulation back, wrap the end of the new wire round and tape it, as access can be difficult on modern cars without removing most of the interior. Thats exactly what I meant technically not the way to do it but it does work. Mind a quick blob of solder on that joint will make it nice and secure |
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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