|
|
|
|
|
I hope this'll be something special too, Dave  Problem is when I should be working, I can lapse into standing back and thinking Mmmmmmm....  Thanks Omega. A number of serious purchases almost made be lapse into economy-mode with the clutch. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2012 18:11:39 GMT
|
You may recall I'm fitting 8" wheels. Wheel spacers are needed at the front to clear the top wishbone. After much hunting for suitable hub-centric wheel spacers, I decided I'd start buying some from Ebay and seeing if they could be modified to fit. If not, I'd measure them properly and stick them back on EBAY. Needed : PCD 4 x 114.3 spacer 10mm (or even a bit more, up to 15mm/16mm) wheel centre-bore 73.1mm (as are many aftermarket wheels) hub centre bore 67.1mm [ Incidentally BIMECC make spacers in those centre-bores and PCD, for older Hyundai, Kia, Mitsubishi models but only in 20mm ] So I took a first punt at set of 4 spacers with the right PCD, 12mm thick, and close, but not too accurate centre-bore measurements. I got them cheap, and tried them on yesterday. Guess what? They're PERFECT!!!  Centre-bore for hub and wheel are spot-on ! Somebody up there likes me!  So we go from this.....  to this.  On full lock I can pass my finger between wheel and the back edge of the top wishbone. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2012 20:37:28 GMT
|
|
Ive been coveting scimitars for ages since i started to read this thread, they keep selling for under 500 quid locally in not terrible condition and i got an insurance quote for amusement value...
£6000!
Looks like i cant own one for ages!
Oh so much want, super work as always.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2012 10:19:22 GMT
|
£6000  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2012 10:36:56 GMT
|
|
The joys of being under 25
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2012 20:02:01 GMT
|
|
this is a fantastic build thread, you have gone the xtra mile on every part of the car you have touched and it shows! i have always been scared to work with fiberglass, but you make it look easy..
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2012 20:19:22 GMT
|
Very kind of you to say so, my friend! Fibre-glass is a doddle. The process seems a black art at first, but once you've tried it and apply some common sense, it's not scary. You can experiment with it for little outlay. How much does a MIG welder cost these days? Sure, there are some basic skills, but I'd say compared to welding, even a careful novice (and I'm no expert) can produce consistent results. |
| |
|
|
iant
Part of things
Posts: 155
|
|
Dec 27, 2012 20:15:40 GMT
|
|
Just read this whole thread and it's been so enjoyable! It's shaping up lovely, what a machine! Thanks for sharing.
|
| |
|
|
carmad
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,002
|
|
|
|
|
Come on darryl you have had a few days off over Christmas you not sneaked out to the shed once ?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 19:12:28 GMT
|
@ Iant. Thanks for the nice comments. It all helps to encourage me. Carmad, Sheesh  I know, mate. I had big progress planned for the holidays. I've been distracted by : blocked sewers, servicing stepson's Hyundai Getz, taking Getz to MoT (Fail!), replacing brake pipes in Getz, and tomorrow will start with trying to bleed the brakes (again). Scimitar playtime has been limited to scraping more paint off. It's nice to know you're keeping me from slacking too much ;D |
| |
|
|
|
|
carmad
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,002
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 19:34:12 GMT
|
|
mate i am the same getting roped into doing clutches in my mates car and waiting on viva parts from england
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
My brain was a fried over the holidays, so the best I could do was the keep stripping off the old paint. At last, I think it's all off. I'm not right down to the gel-coat, but to a good solid base. Most of the paint came off easily, too easily. This car may have been primed on Friday afternoon at the factory. There was only beige paint on bare gel-coat on the lower sills.  Somebody has been here before doing repairs, both front and back. The repairs look good, but there's some crazing around them.  Plenty of damage around the lock and filler cap areas and crazing. The missing valance is my own doing  I see lots of GRP / P40 / filler work to come  Scimitars may have a GRP shell, but there's a steel A-post to support the door hinges. It should look something like this repaired one from the driver side of my car.  The passenger side one came out like this. I'll need to make a new one.  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2013 18:43:44 GMT
|
I've not been slacking. Honest I;ve been repairing bodywork, which isn't fun to read about, so I thought I'd avoid boring you. But one of the main areas for repair is the crazed leading edge of the nosecone. The nosecone is supported by a steel framework. Mine is toast, so I decided to sort it out before risking the repaired nosecone flexing and damaging my repairs. Usually the nosecone is bolted to the framework by the bumper mounts. I'm planning to change the bumper/valance area, so I don't want visible fixings. That's awkward change number 1. Part of this framework supports the radiator. I'm not using a Scimitar rad. That's awkward change number 2. So with a loose plan in my head, you just gotta start making bracket and see where it takes you. First I remade the strut brace because a radiator hose wants to go through the original one. The strut brace might come into play with the nosecone/radiator support, which is why I started here.  The Omega radiator is too big for a Scimitar SE5a. I'm using an Astra F 1.7 TD radiator instead. It has 90% the capacity of the Omega radiator. It'll do well as I'm not running air-con or PAS. It has the same mounting spigots as the Omega radiator, so I chopped out parts of Omega subframe with the big grommets, and incorporated these into new brackets. I've taken the brackets forward and up to the nosecone. They're now bolted into the headlamp recesses. The bolts will be hidden by the headlamp covers. This mean I can re-do the bumper/valance without visible fixings. These might yet be braced back to the strut-brace.   Which gives me a radiator here :  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'll cut a long story short. I've replaced the wheels studs so they're long enough for the spacers. I've changed from 1/2" UNF threaded studs to more common M12 x1.5. Investigating what fitted took a lot more time than I imagined, but I have Chrysler Voyager studs as a direct replacement on the front hubs, and drilled out the rear hubs to 14mm to take Toyota/Mitsubishi/etc. studs. Finally the wheels can be fitted. I've had to reposition the bodyshell to get everything square but.......    I'm still getting used to the wheels. I've been looking at puny 165R14 tyres until now, so these look a bit odd to me at the minute. The front framework is complete, and I've made a little progress in the engine bay. The Omega cooling fan housing has been chopped down and bracketed to the Astra Radiator. The induction gear is being trial fitted.  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This really is a very positive forum. I'm more and more convinced those tyres are a FAIL. You should all have been telling me that!   I chose tyres to give the standard rolling radius. But some of the nicest Scimitars have tyres 10% smaller than standard. This is what I want to achieve, and it's running 50-series tyres on 15" wheels. I have 55-series on 16" I think they have to come off again.  |
| |
|
|
sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,392
|
|
|
|
Well as you said it yourself I'd try to get some small stretch going aswell. Not because I think stretch is cool, but I think the rubber is sticking out too much. Everything else looks spot on Edit: I'd make it sit lower aswell. Probably will when all the weight is put back. |
| |
Last Edit: Feb 5, 2013 19:50:13 GMT by sonus
Current
1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype
2004 TVR T350C
2017 BMW 340i
Previous
BMW 325d E91LCI - sold
Alfa Romeo GTV - sold
Citroen AX GT - at the breakers
Ford Puma 1.7 - sold
Volvo V50 2.0d - sold
MGB GT - wrecked by fire
MG ZT 1.8T - sold
VW E-golf Electric - sold
Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold
Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Agreed. No mad stretch, but enough to take out the balloon effect.
The car sure needs time to settle on the suspension.
|
| |
|
|
sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,392
|
|
|
|
|
How much lower do you think you'll end up?
And I can't seem to find what the current 16" tire dimensions are(?).
|
| |
Last Edit: Feb 5, 2013 20:58:11 GMT by sonus
Current
1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype
2004 TVR T350C
2017 BMW 340i
Previous
BMW 325d E91LCI - sold
Alfa Romeo GTV - sold
Citroen AX GT - at the breakers
Ford Puma 1.7 - sold
Volvo V50 2.0d - sold
MGB GT - wrecked by fire
MG ZT 1.8T - sold
VW E-golf Electric - sold
Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold
Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Just a tad lower than standard is the intention, with a little rake if I can.
It'll drop a little lower with smaller than from-the-factory tyres.
The Gaz suspension is adjustable, but the fronts are at their lowest point at the moment. They've not had a chance to take any weight yet. The X30XE, despite being cast iron, will be lighter than the Essex anchor, so I'll have to see how it settles.
|
| |
|
|
sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,392
|
|
|
|
It'd look really good with the top of the tires at the the same height as the fender tops. But that's me and it's your car I think the reason it looks somewhat off is that the gaps between the body an wheels is smaller at the front and back of the tire than it is at the top? |
| |
Current
1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype
2004 TVR T350C
2017 BMW 340i
Previous
BMW 325d E91LCI - sold
Alfa Romeo GTV - sold
Citroen AX GT - at the breakers
Ford Puma 1.7 - sold
Volvo V50 2.0d - sold
MGB GT - wrecked by fire
MG ZT 1.8T - sold
VW E-golf Electric - sold
Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold
Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
|
|
|
|
I know, mate. I had big progress planned for the holidays. 
