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Yeah, the small front and back gap is definitely off-putting. The tyres are just too close there.
Once I get the ride-height looking right, I'll probably have to widen the arches slightly anyway (as is the red on in the pic above), so I can use that to help too.
The tyres presently are 215/55R16 front and 225/55R16 back. That red car has 205/50R15 front, and I suspect slightly larger at the back, so I'm way off. I'm going to mock up our MX-5 wheels at the weekend. They are only slightly larger diameter than what I'm aiming for.
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Problem solved I think. 205/50R16. The body should drop down over those nicely.
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,392
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That works a treat Needs to come down a bit eh? I'd suggest less air on top than front and rear
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Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2004 TVR T350C 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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I need to get more bits into it to help the suspension settle.
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stevietuck
Posted a lot
Never argue with idiots,they drag you down to their level then beat you with their expertise!
Posts: 1,350
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Wheels look much better with the new tyres bud keep up the good work steve.
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sonus
Europe
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Did they ever make a LHD Scimitar?
If not how hard would it be to convert you think?
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Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2004 TVR T350C 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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Siert
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,107
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Did they ever make a LHD Scimitar? If not how hard would it be to convert you think? Yes, they did. There are some in the Netherlands.
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Feb 10, 2013 13:57:01 GMT
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Love it! the v6 looks right at home! If you get an engine loom off an early 2.5 from a cav/calibra it doesn't have the immobiliser and should be very easy to wire in to the scim loom only 6 or 7 wires from memory and you prob don't need all of those!
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Feb 10, 2013 19:35:04 GMT
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Yep, there are a few LHD drive about. The Scimitar was a bit of a parts-bin special, so a different rack was used. I confess I'm not sure how easy it would be to find an LHD dashboard if you're thinking of a conversion. Best get over to www.scimitarweb.co.uk if you want better information. Very helpful guys on that forum. Interesting information, Grayskull. Thanks for that. However, my plan is to use the Omega loom, and strip out what's not needed. The original Scimitar loom is in a right state, so no way am I re-using it.
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Feb 10, 2013 20:09:17 GMT
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Using the omega loom makes sense much newer and better wiring aswell as plug and play
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oakesy
Part of things
Posts: 305
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Feb 10, 2013 20:12:20 GMT
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There are quite a few little differances between RHD and LHD. Differant steering rack, differant pedal box, dash, dash top, the body is slightly differant in the footwells and engine bay. It is possible to convert a RHD to LHD though.
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'66 Scimitar Coupe Straight Six in no Paint '74 Scimitar GTE in Yellow '71 Jaguar XJ6 in Blue '76 Scimitar GTE '87 Scimitar Turbo Previous- '87 Scimitar SS1 Turbo, '75 Triumph Toledo, '86 VW Scirocco, '93 Scimitar Sabre, '85 Scimitar SS1, '76 Scimitar GTE, '71 Scimitar GTE
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stevietuck
Posted a lot
Never argue with idiots,they drag you down to their level then beat you with their expertise!
Posts: 1,350
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Feb 26, 2013 10:31:57 GMT
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Any progress? I need my scimitar fix!
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Feb 26, 2013 21:03:25 GMT
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Very nice of you to show an interest. Thanks Front brackets painted and fitted, to support the induction chamber thingy.... More interesting, perhaps, I've been repairing the front valance. A Dolomite Sprint spoiler is an old add-on for a Scimitar. It's actually proved useful to hold the thing in shape during repairs. I'm also dispensing with the bolt on-chrome bumpers, which are in a bad way. My Pro-Touring plan is to restyle the front anyway, so I've cut out the oddly shaped bit of bodywork from behind the bumper and came up with an idea to start filling in the hole. This funky bit will get glassed in, and I'll go from there. I've also cut out the odd bit below which carried the indicator. I'll try for something oblong like early Fiesta indicators in the 'bumper'. Cheapo Buck "]
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frodo
Part of things
Posts: 104
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Feb 26, 2013 21:22:27 GMT
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Hi there, just wanted to say that I've just spent half an hour reading this from start to finish with a coffee - great work, and very inspiring for me to pull my finger out and crack on with the SE5a I have in a hangar at work... Needs work on the chassis in almost exactly the same place as yours! I eventually plan to pull a full cage in it and have it as a fast road/weekend/backup race car. Staying Essex V6 for now but a V8 could be an idea. Your car looks awesome!
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Feb 27, 2013 12:52:25 GMT
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Cheers Frodo. The Essex should still be fun, just mine was shot, so I got carried away....again
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,392
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Feb 27, 2013 13:16:46 GMT
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........so I got carried away....again Man Am I glad you did THe X30XE looks like it was made to fit the Scimitar
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Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2004 TVR T350C 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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stevietuck
Posted a lot
Never argue with idiots,they drag you down to their level then beat you with their expertise!
Posts: 1,350
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Looking good cant wait to see this finished.Keep up the good work. steve.
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Thanks vey much guys. I thought about expanding foam to shape the cut-out in the valance. Then I tried something else. Duct tape. Red Green would be proud It's not very scientific, but it seems to be working The other area of attention has been the brake and pedal box. I got this universal brake bias box. I've seen it fitted on another Scimitar on Scimitarweb.co.uk, so I know it can be made to fit. I got a master cylinder for the clutch too. It'll match the brakes, has the same bore as the Omega clutch master, and is easier to fit and plumb. I've welded a couple of bits of 1" box on the base, which lets it sit nicely in the inner guard. It's bolted from underneath into a couple of captive nuts in the 1" box. To have it firmly mounted to the pedal box, I've bracketed it off one of the original captive bolts for the original master cylinder. This is all trial fitted, and needs further tweeking. Lots of pedal-box work still to come.
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stevietuck
Posted a lot
Never argue with idiots,they drag you down to their level then beat you with their expertise!
Posts: 1,350
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I like the duct tape idea iv seen it used like this a few times and looks like it works a treat.keep it coming bud we want more! steve.
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carmad
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,002
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Good to see your still at it mate
Looking well I like the pedal box
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