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Sept 14, 2012 18:02:02 GMT
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I took the day off and did some re-organisation, if not work on the car.
I loaded up the old Essex, auto box, bent upright, old balljoints, rotten chassis sections and other tat kicking around and weighed it in.
The last item out of the trailer was the short block which I couldn't shift further. The crane driver appeared at the right time and waved at me not to bother. He dropped the claw on it, lifted and tossed it into the scrap like you or I would flick a peanut.
350 kilos = £52.50 which more than pays for the Powerhand brake pipe flaring tool bought this morning on Ebay.
Cut up the SE6a body into repair sections, aware I undid the work of somebody in Tamworth 36 years ago.
Got the SE5a body onto a trolley and moved it into the carport.
I might start some body repairs.
1. to use up the GRP resin I have before it goes off
2. to make a start on the body now rather than in the depths of winter
3. to spread the cost of the mechanical bits I still need to buy.
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carmad
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,002
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Sept 15, 2012 7:49:19 GMT
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Going well mate
Chassis is a work off art
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Sept 15, 2012 16:44:29 GMT
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Cheers Carmad.
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carmad
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,002
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Sept 15, 2012 19:44:53 GMT
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No problem
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Sept 30, 2012 17:04:01 GMT
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Body repairs have begun, starting in the engine bay. There were holes for all the standard stuff in the inner guards. As I don't know what auxiliary parts I'll be using along with the X30XE, I filled them all in. It'll give me a blank canvas when I come to that stage of fitting-out. Even so, some of this might get cut away later. I've no before pic, but after some GRP repairs, P40, P38 and high-build primer, I have this HUGE area repaired :?  There must have been a fine concoction of brake fluid and rain water lying in puddles. There's no gel-coat remaining on the bottom. Rather than skim it with filler, I think I'll make some aluminium plates to drop in. T'other side wasn't so damaged, this is how it stands now.  Also, here's the tunnel now mostly glassed in.  ....and some star-crazed gel-coat, dug out back to the good mat, to be filled in again. Some sculpting of odd shapes to deal with, then.  Hopefully by next weekend my finger-nails will have grown back and I'll be good to continue the sanding. It's not exciting, but it has to be done. |
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Sept 30, 2012 21:39:48 GMT
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All progress is good progress. Its nice having a neat 'canvas' to work with, thats why ive always preferred a full rebuild as opposed to a rolling restoration.
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I've never though of it like that, but that's how my projects have mostly been too. Even if part-built, I started again.
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Oct 13, 2012 17:11:55 GMT
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Last weekend I investigated a couple of problem areas of the bodyshell. The left sill was badly bulged. It's a GRP shell, but the sills have a steel strengthener bonded in. When they corrode they bulge and damaged the GRP. Time to cut and inspect.  Totally rotten   Gotta cut it all out.  Also badly cracked A-pillar. Grind back and re-glass it, job done ?  ARgh. Nope. Rotten steel tube in there too, and it goes 12" down the front wing.  A fairly destructive weekend, and I wondered it repairing this bodyshell was too much. Ploughing manfully on, this weekend I set a new section into the sill, taken from the bodyshell of the SE6a (good job I kept that!) I plan to glass that from the underside for strength.  Steel tube from B&Q bent and welded into the good tubing, set on a bed of P40 and glassed over.  Feeling more positive now. |
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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I love this project!! Such a cool car and in the updated version will be absolutely fabulous for sure! I'll be monitoring this build!
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Oct 28, 2012 18:14:06 GMT
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The steel section in the sill was there for strength, so I needed to beef it up again. I have laid a couple of layers of GRP from the underside. I rolled the bodyshell onto its side (very easy with the early Scimitars  )to make the job easier, and it has also allowed me to make some other underbelly repairs. But to beef it up the sill properly I needed something else. I prefer not to add steel. My plan is to close off the sill section with an extra bit of GRP. This will beef up the sill and keep the line of the bottom edge of the sill too. I made a former ....  to make this....  which will be bonded and riveted here....  Luckily the driver's sill wasn't in such bad shape. I removed the steelwork from underneath, and have made a strengthener for that side too. While the bodyshell is tipped on its side, I undersealed the undersides. |
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I fitted the sill strengtheners today, bonded with Wirth Bond&Seal, and also riveted. Belt & Braces :-)  I've tucked them as far up in as I can so they don't get in the way when the shell drops down over the side-rails. The sills are now seriously solid! These things won't get mishapen ever again. I'm extremely pleased. I can't walk past the car without pulling the sill to see how solid it is. Sad I know   All the underside repairs are complete and it's been undersealed to freshen it up, at least in all the areas I'll not be able to access when the shell goes back on the chassis. Brake lines for the back axle and the main line to the front are in now too. The Powerhand/ Serenco flaring tool I bought a while back is a brilliant piece of kit, worth every penny. I'm left-handed which makes it a little more awkward to use it, but the flares are perfect.   It was a little early to pack up by this stage, so what easy 30 minute job could I do? AH! Make a blanking plate to go in place of the EGR valve.   A very satisfying day's work :-) |
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Have you ever come across economical engine swaps?
Love the idea of the ultimate daily but even Omega's only do about 30mpg from what ive read...
I know it probably half defies the point, but its the sort of thing id like to do!
Superb work, love a good chunk of progress.
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nice to see this coming along hope to do more on my car soon |
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Nov 18, 2012 18:00:34 GMT
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Drive-train into the chassis (even if the gearbox needs to come back off later to fit clutch hose of the correct length). It's probably easier to fit the body over the engine than t'other way around.  I've been working on the fuel tank the past few days, to fit the Omega pump and swirl pot into the Scimitar stainless steel tank. I cut and welded in some tabs to hold the base for the swirl pot.  Then drop in the swirl pot / pump assembly and CLICK.  For the fuel Supply outlet and Return inlet, I've welded in a couple of 8mm stainless steel tubes, which will meet the original hoses (although chopped a little) coming off the Omega swirl pot.  I've got the photos out of sequence as that pic also shows the completed cover-plate, constructed as below....  It's not fun drilling stainless steel, even when it's only 1mm thick  It took a bit of tweaking to get all the holes to line up, too. For the electrics (4 wires : 2 for the pump, 2 for the sender) , I had a plan, but I'm undecided right now. I still need to test to make sure this is all leak-proof. Also, planning ahead to body work, I got a Dolomite spoiler from a very helpful person on Gumtree. The Dolly spoiler is an old trick for Scimitars it seems. It's a pretty close match to the profile of the Scimitar bodywork.  |
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,998
Club RR Member Number: 35
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Nov 18, 2012 19:43:43 GMT
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Have you ever come across economical engine swaps? Love the idea of the ultimate daily but even Omega's only do about 30mpg from what ive read... I know it probably half defies the point, but its the sort of thing id like to do! Superb work, love a good chunk of progress. Chairchild put a pug 2.1td in his (before he stripped it), but I know what you mean, a nice cheap to run GTE would be an ace daily |
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stevietuck
Posted a lot
Never argue with idiots,they drag you down to their level then beat you with their expertise!
Posts: 1,350
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Dec 17, 2012 12:08:44 GMT
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I love this build I've always loved these cars and I'm very jellous of your garage whats in it and your skills!!  keep up the good work bud your an inspiration to us all good on ya! |
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Dec 17, 2012 18:32:03 GMT
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Damned kind of you to say so, fella. So for you and my fellow fibre-glass fans, a small bullet-point update. Now that the body is back on, I'm working on a number of fronts. I've been measuring up for spacers. I need these at the front to get the 8" x 16" wheels on without fouling the top wish-bone. I've not found anything available off the shelf yet. I'm still looking. Bought an Astra F 1.7TD radiator which will go in without any cutting of fibre-glass in the engine bay. Bought a universal brake-bias pedal box and Wilwood master cylinders as space is really tight for brake parts. It wasn't my original plan, but I'm removing all the paint, going back down to the gel-coat. With a simple scraper......  ... it's coming off quite well, but I still reckon it'll total a few days work to have it all off. But this will give such a good base for paint.  MORE surgery to the bodywork.  Steel-work in the A-posts to support the doors had gone crusty and mishapen the GRP.  I got the driver's side one out, and despite first impressions, it's repairable. Who'da thunk a GRP shell could contain so much rust?  |
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slot
Part of things
Posts: 363
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Dec 17, 2012 22:18:31 GMT
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Progress.  I could just sit there all day looking at that, it's a work of art and testament to your skill's friend This is going to special Dave  |
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Last Edit: Dec 17, 2012 22:21:28 GMT by slot
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omega
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,060
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Dec 17, 2012 23:42:56 GMT
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wow what a build
just read your whole thread,cant belive you where thinking of useing the old clutch.
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)to make the job easier, and it has also allowed me to make some other underbelly repairs.
It took a bit of tweaking to get all the holes to line up, too.
keep up the good work bud your an inspiration to us all good on ya!
Steel-work in the A-posts to support the doors had gone crusty and mishapen the GRP. 
