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Jul 22, 2011 20:55:38 GMT
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Hi, I've decided that on my current project I want a bare brushed steel finish. Has anyone got any experience / knowledge as the best way to achieve / maintain it? My current thoughts are just to use normal 2k automotive laquer straight onto the steel but it can't be that easy?
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Jul 22, 2011 21:06:43 GMT
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I think your best bet would be to go to your local auto paint factors and explain what you want to do. They should be able to advise you on the best product to use. There may be a product specially for this purpose.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,842
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Bare steel finishstealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Jul 22, 2011 21:06:56 GMT
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Lacquer will chip and lift. You need to cover it in gun oil.
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Jul 22, 2011 21:11:46 GMT
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Jul 22, 2011 21:30:39 GMT
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Thanks for the info so far! That's some quick responses!
Could do with some more info on gun oil? Will the panels be permanently oily?
Not sure that would work as I won't be able to oil in every crevice whereas with a laquer there is a permanent seal?
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Jul 22, 2011 21:53:30 GMT
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laquer wont take, lift right off BUT there is a product out there you can rub on for bare metel finish like you do with paint waxing it....curse word knows wht its called or get if from...
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 1995 mk3 cavalier 1.8i 1972 1200 beetle 2010 1.2 fiat 500 "sometime's" 2000 suzuki gsxr 600 srad |
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Is it a replica Delorean ;D
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Last Edit: Jul 23, 2011 7:17:48 GMT by ejenner
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several very light coats of laquer should stay on thats what we do with ally parts that we metia blast at work
its usually enough to stop the part rusting and so you can just wipe dirt off but not enough so you cant see the laquer
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Last Edit: Jul 23, 2011 7:48:57 GMT by stuartrf
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,714
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Bare steel finishDez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Jul 23, 2011 15:43:56 GMT
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laquer wont work, no matter what you do, itll chip very easily, bleed under, lift, go white, and look rubbish in a very quick period. it also has mosture in it, so will create black spots on your panels.
sealing it simply doesnt work, you need to use gun oil, ankor wax, gibbs, or wd40, and treat it as a finish you need to 'work on' every now and then.
bare metal it, use your product and then every so often youll need to give bits of it a light cleanup and re-oil with a scoring pad or wire wool and re-apply.
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Last Edit: Jul 23, 2011 15:44:44 GMT by Dez
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Jul 23, 2011 21:02:40 GMT
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Is it a replica Delorean ;D if the parts you are making/doing are new make them in stainless... As per DMC... ? Would some form of clear powdercoat work? |
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Last Edit: Jul 23, 2011 21:03:10 GMT by akku
1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jul 26, 2011 11:59:30 GMT
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2k clearcoat will struggle to adhere on smooth/shiney bodywork. Flex will start it lifting soon. Doesn't have moisture in it unless the compressor filtering is curse word or the weather damp when sprayed (causing microblisters eventually). 1k and celly can bloom causing white cloudiness with dodgy application, 2k won't do that.
Stonechip patches could be tricky, and will be a proper PITA to keep on doing.
That said I've 2k cleared polished ally bike engine covers & forks & bits. Still good after a yrs daily use, but would need re-doing some time for sure.
As above Gibbs Brand looks good. Or some oil that sets/dries.
Boiled linseed oil? no idea if anyone's tried it on bodywork, but is an old way of protecting metal. Chap I know squirts a linseed & wax brew inside his chassis sections.
Linseed does dry but takes a while. I've only used it on wood.
Worth searching the HAMB, there's lots of detailed discussion on there about oils vs clears vs clear powder and all that.
Or get a Landy, Birmabrite seems to stay good when bare... ;D
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Jul 26, 2011 12:08:15 GMT
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I've always wondered about some sort of clear Epoxy. It sticks to pretty much anything scarily well, and is very tough and water and weather proof.
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Jul 26, 2011 18:16:21 GMT
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Mate of mine did his splitty with sex wax, the surfboard stuff. Took a while, but the finish was great! It wasn't bare metal but sun burnt 1958 paint that had warn through in plenty of places. Should do the same on Bare metal, it's just about sealing the surface from the air and water. It worked very well from what I remember. I'll try and find a pic of the van.   |
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Remember the days when sex was safe and motorsport was dangerous. Vintage bling always attracts pussy.  |
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Jul 26, 2011 19:08:27 GMT
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If i recall correctly i put 6 cans of cheap matt laquer on this bonnet, it went quite yellowy but to my surprise it didn't start peeling in the half year i owned it. Although I've heard that even if you get it to stick, metal rusts under laquer, but i couldn't tell as the bonnet allready had a few rust spots when i laquered it.  |
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