capri power/axel upgrades

diff/car has done 38k from new, so diff is as you would expect for a car of that age, its very rarely used to travel more than 20-30 miles at a time so it not being a great cruiser isnt an issue realy, suppose with all these things if you don't go stupid with the right foot, itl tolerate within reason what it gets

i cant remember tbh mate

My 2.8 had a 1.6 back end in fact I'm going back to that as the Slipper is making odd noises. I hammered the 1.6 axle and it was fine, the take off was quicker I didnt notice any issues cruising but TBH "Its a Capri just love the experience" LOL.

But answer to your question no its not a must do, the 1.6 axle will hold up.

The axle code is right on the data tag under the bonnet. It's likely to be either a 3.75 (typical for a Pinto 1.6L) or a 3.89 (typical for a Kent 1.6L).

I think you'll find it unsatisfactory in terms of sustained highway use if it's one of those 2 ratios.

The 3.75 ratio uses a shed-load of CROWN teeth to achieve that ratio, and they are particularly thin teeth. If you're going to lob lower launches on it with frequency, and it really is a 3.75 behind a healthy-tuned 2.8L, mmmmmm..... could be a fail on the CROWN teeth - they are quite slender in that particular mesh.

If you want rapid launches a 3.44 or a 3.22 is a better compromise.

But, hell, check your data tag first for letter code on the old girl.

My 3.89 lasted two championship seasons behind a 156HP 2.0L, winning around 24 poles, 20 races, and 22 track records. And it's still not been rebuilt, nor leaks, nor shows any signs of abuse.

The Koln axle is the European "Ford 9 inch". It's used by everybody, as a baddass mofo axle for rally and race. Zakspeed put 700+ HP down through Koln axle regularly, and those with alloy center sections!

But if your Koln is a pile of unmaintained ruins, it won't last any longer than a disrepaired pisspoor 9-inch Ford NASCAR axle.

I now re-furl my Captain Obvious cape.

The axle will take the power and will only break down if you abuse it. The key issue is as Copey says, different engines need different gearing. The V6 will rev easily, but it has more torque than your 1600, thus a matching axle ratio is appropriate to stop it feeling out of puff when cruising, thus making use of the extra torque.

As an example - my P100 runs a cologne with the original commercial axle (very strong but even lower geared for pulling weight), so at 75/80mph it is puffing hard and at 90 it is about done, whilst at the other end of scale first gear is pretty useless for me unless heavily loaded. Where as a 2.8 Capri will cruise at 75 and feel relaxed and Capri's have been known to top the ton on private property (My P100 cannot).

My advice - start with the 1.6 axle and see how you feel with it. If you want something more tractable I'd go for the 2.8 ratio.

No capris used the atlas only cortinas used the curse word chocolate Koln axle and Euro spec Mk1/2 escorts, best avoided like the clap

Remember the lower the gear the more torque at the wheels so more likely to break traction, lower isn't allways faster off the line is standard form

With the extra power of the 24V you really do need the 2.8 diff.

Do you know what gearbox has been used in the conversion? I used the type 9 as fitted to the 1. as it also has the longer input shaft and can be found for pennies. This has shorter first and second ratios, giving me the extra short first - made it perfect for regular towing duties, but am regretting the money saving over the v6 box now. (note it also has smaller bearings inside so is a little weaker).

Without thread hijacking - a solid top plate to the type 9 box (or the real thing from Burtons if you can afford it), adds some strength to the casing if you're going to be giving it some.