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Thought I might as well start a thread on my impulse buy - I've always wanted an MX5 ever since I was 18 and that was a few years ago. I managed to keep the desire at bay until members on here tempted me again, but I struggled on. It was too similar to my MGB so no need said I. Then I swapped the MGB for a Tiger kit car. Which I sold on a Sunday. I gave the bulk of the money to the wife in a "thanks for putting up with me and bearing two children" manner and kept the change in my wallet. Then a few more MX5 popped up on here. And the sun came out, and a local seller took an offer on this on the Thursday... It's a 1.6 import, looks pretty solid except for a repair on one sill. The bodywork is still red and the hood is mostly waterproof. It does suffer an intermittent lack of power which I'll need to attend to. Hideous MX5 reflector covers and likely front grill will be for sale! The previous owner replaced AFM and coil pack, so next step is temp sensor on block, and try and read the fault codes. First work - Fitted a stereo I had kicking around. The speakers in the headrests seem OKish but can get a bit beaten on high levels. Then I moved onto the power issue. Looks like the seller was right about replacing AFM and coil pack as they both have scrappy type writing on them. So next was temp sensor, according to internet: "It lives down the back of the engine and the coil pack needs to be moved out of the way to get access to it. This is the sensor that tells the ECU the coolant temperature so that it can turn the choke on if required. If this is playing up it will usually trigger an ECU fault code '09'. Typical fault: Car starts fine from cold but not when it's warm, loss of power when warm, misfiring, heavy fuel consumption." Fairly easy to get to, three bolts for coil pack and then swap the sensor over once released the cable and clip. I noticed the end of the old sensor was a little dirty so flushed and refilled the coolant as well. The earth strap on the engine was looking very knackered as well, and figuring poor earth won't help the issue replaced with a spare one: Slight weep from the front of engine will keep an eye on: This evening have drained the oil and removed the filter, fitted a magnetic sump plug and now await a parcel from MX5 Parts with new filter, new spark plugs, and a new fuel filter. The fuel filter should be changed every 30k or so but often forgotten so for the £15 thought it's worth doing for peace of mind and to rule it out. Yet to get the paperwork sorted on car so not sure if I've fixed the power issue yet. Will have to sort and find out. Spent about £70 so far on plugs, oil and fuel filters, oil, coolant and temp sensor. Hope to not have to spend much more. It's MOTd and Taxed until September, after that depending on what it needs for the MOT it will either be kept or possibly be broken for parts so I can build an Exocet.
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Perfect result..... happy wife, new car.
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Indeed she evens likes it and is keen to drive it!
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May 12, 2011 14:42:28 GMT
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Mini update. After reading the forums was advised removing the charcoal canister neatens up the bay, removes some useless weight (very little) and crucially makes accessing the oil filter easier. So off it came: And gone: Also took the time to fit new oil filter and oil and change plugs for the slightly longer variety that are meant to be a marginal improvement in running and have solved some peoples odd running in the past: Worryingly some of the old plugs were a little oilly on the threads. From looking in the holes there are no signs of leakage so think previous owner was a little keen when refilling the oil. Next project is to change the fuel filter using this guide: www.techguys.ca/howto/fuel_filter.html
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May 23, 2011 14:47:21 GMT
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NUTS - it's not running!
Changed the engine temp sensor beneath the coil pack. Flushed the coolant.
I drained the oil and fitted new filter. Removed the charcoal canister and blanked the pipes off as per the guides. Then I ran car up and it was fine (only ran it for a few minutes to check).
Then I pulled the fuel pump relay to release the pressure in the fuel lines so I could change the fuel filter beneath the car (didn't work still got covered in fuel...)
Changed the fuel filter and stuck in new spark plugs (the longer ones from MX5 Parts).
Reconnected the fuel pump relay and started the car, all seemed OK but then it coughed and died. I tried restarting and eventually realised fuel gauge was reading empty, doh!
So I've put 2 gallons in and reads abut 1/4 full. But it still won't start. Turns over, been unable to check for spark as working on my own. I've pulled the plugs and still look good and they smell a bit of petrol so I think the fuel is getting through but could just be old residue. I've used a paperclip to bridge the terminals in the diagnostic plug to try and pre-prime the system (hear pump whirring).
I've tried to split the fuel lines where they come up near the charcoal canister to check for fuel but they are on there so tight I can't get them to shift. Tried switching plugs back to old one's and still nothing.
Anyone have any advice at all please? I presume I've run the lines dry so no amount of priming will get around me having air in the injectors so will need a lot of turns to clear?
Is there anything else I should check or a better way of checking for fuel? In case I have fitted the fuel filter wrong way arouund (99% sure I haven't) it shouldn't make such a difference it doesn't run should it?
It's a 1.6 Eunos so I've checked plug leads are correct with the coil pack for a 1.6 as differ on a 1.8.
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May 23, 2011 15:59:20 GMT
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It's a long shot, but seeing as you've just removed the charcoal cannister (and wiring) you could possibly have disturbed the ignition module.
In photo 2 below/left of the master cylinder/above left of the top mount where the wiring goes into the little block bolted to a metal bracket (the bracket that the cannister module was bolted to) check that the plug is fully engaged. If you stil have no luck, see if someone local can lend you a module to try out (if I had a spare one I'd send it to you)
From what you have said, it seems like one of those things that could cause your symptoms.
Also, check the main fuse blocks which are in the box just above the ignition module...to the left of the master cylinder.
If I can think of anything else to check I'll let you know....
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May 23, 2011 17:19:12 GMT
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Thanks will check that as well, quite possible I could have disturbed it.
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May 25, 2011 20:54:09 GMT
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Had some time today so have followed up on a few hints:
Managed to operate ignition and check for spark on each lead and confirmed all 4 leads are sparking.
Managed to free one of the fuel lines and it's full of fuel.
Checked ignition module by charcoal canister was connected.
Checked fuel pump relay connected under steering wheel.
Checked coolant temp sensor under coil pack connected.
Still nothing, felt like it was maybe about to go but battery was struggling by this point.
Next step is get a can of fresh fuel in, charge the battery and give it another go.
Anything else gents?
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May 25, 2011 21:28:13 GMT
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Squirt some petrol down the intake to make sure it is a fuel problem.
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1994 Rover Metro 1994 Peugeot 405 Estate 1991 Rover Metro Gti 16v 2001 Fiat Seicento Sporting 1999 Fiat Punto 1.2 1994 Peugeot 106 Xnd (x3) 1991 Westfield 7 2004 Landrover 110 SW 2003 Seat Ibiza 1.9Tdi Sport 1959 Ford 107e Prefect 1992 Suzuki Vitara 2008 Skoda Fabia
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May 31, 2011 15:17:06 GMT
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Squirt some petrol down the intake to make sure it is a fuel problem. You mean the air intake? So split the intake hose post filter and squirt some down? Never tried that on a car before. Today I stuck 10litres of fresh fuel in, and a charged battery. It coughed once or twice but that was it. So a marginal improvement!
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Jun 10, 2011 19:51:18 GMT
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Well today I fitted a used but sold as working igniter and still nothing. Sounds like it's working for a second then just churns away. Checked tacho and it's not moving, so does that mean another duff igniter or coil pack?
Since learnt by reading the manual that flooring it on start shuts off the injectors so no fuel, opposite of the usual carb stuff I'm used to, will have to bear in mind. Means the ties I've turned it over with foot down it was getting no fuel.
So I've got spark, fuel and not sure where next to go!
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Jun 20, 2011 17:30:27 GMT
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Little update, have checked all the fuses in the engine bay and up under the steering column. Tried switching back to old ignitor, still nothing. So went through the steps in the manual, took off filler cap and listened for fuel pump running when bridged out (whining) and heard it. So then it said try starting with fuel pump port bridged out to see what happens, so after a lot of goes it seemed like it was nearly getting there, registering some rpm on the tacho as well, then the battery died! With an hour of charging I thought I'd give it another go, jumper in the fuel pump port, fuel tank cap off, and cranked like mad. After an embarassingly long time it spluttered and just about ran with about 50% throttle, nearly cutting out if I let off the throttle. After maybe 10 secs like this it ran fine without and I was pleased as punch. Then I smelt burning and noticed smoke in the engine bay Got out and ran around to engine and it was just small oil residue I'd split on the exhaust heat shield, and was soon gone. The burning smell? A neighbours bonfire he'd just lit. So worry over! ;D I then undid all the 'fixes' - new spark plugs back in, jumper out the fuel pump port, closed the fuel tank cap. And it fired first time, and has done several times since, running with good oil pressure and all seemingly fine! The only thing I've done differently is take the fuel cap cover off to check for the fuel pump whirr, and just cranked it for frigging ages. So presume as I had a nearly empty tank before I did the filter swap, poured what was left down my arm, and then just about got it started before conking out straight after, I must have ran the whole system completely dry and it took way way longer than I expected to get fuel through. I must have cranked for 10 minutes solid over the various attempts to fix. Now I can stop fiddling and drive it! I now have a spare fuel pump relay on it's way from ebay I don't need mind! Had time to do a little work on the car. Steering wheel it came with was cack: So I bought a nice momo one off a forum. Only when I went to fit, pulled the centre pad off the existing wheel, realised it's actually a nice wheel with a centre horn push there already. Pulled off the minging steering wheel cover and left with this:
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Jun 20, 2011 21:14:23 GMT
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thats great news matey, glad ya got it fixed, well done for sticking at it too, mustve driven ya mental
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I'm not curse word, i just fell off my shoes
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rotapug
Part of things
"Didn't know they made Peugeots that old"
Posts: 15
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That momo steering wheel is just a standard mx5 one, lots of people don't realise that you can pop out that center cover. they are nicer than most aftermarket ones, but i find them a little bit too big. I think you should find a standard gear knob as well, they are much nicer.
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That momo steering wheel is just a standard mx5 one, lots of people don't realise that you can pop out that center cover. they are nicer than most aftermarket ones, but I find them a little bit too big. I think you should find a standard gear knob as well, they are much nicer. Yeah gear knob is pants and came with car, needs to go!
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mitchy
Part of things
Posts: 62
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Jun 22, 2011 10:58:46 GMT
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Just bought one of these, cracking little car to drive and I never knew that the steering wheel looks like that under the cover looks so much better, nearly bought one with the momo badge but looks like I already have one... Also you had any trouble with that vinyl plate? remember being told there not legal ?
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Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011 11:00:29 GMT by mitchy
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Jun 27, 2011 16:03:09 GMT
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Not really driven it yet much to catch attention, but have the same plate on the Dutton on a nearly horizontal bonnet and had no issue. Think if you're driving like a tw*t it will give them something to stop you for but if you save your silly driving for the track you'll probably be ok. Drove the car for the first time at the weekend, had a go kart event down the road so shot over there in it for the first outing. Greeting by a nice sloshing sound when I braked, then I remember the tales of blocked drain holes on the sills. Had a poke and it all came out and looking clean and not rust coloured which is a good sign: Finding it very rev-happy, but a bit ominously low on power at low revs. Having looked around forum they seem to suggest checking the Earthing (new lead fitted already), and the HT leads and plugs. Plugs are brand new and the long reach ones, so will check the gapping. The HT leads were fitted by the previous owner not long back so not sure it's them either. I may swap and see. Other suspect is the AFM which again was swapped (for a used one) by previous owner with receipt and old one in the boot to prove it. It does seem less gutless low down once warmed up a bit mind. So think next step is new HT leads, clean the MAF, check the plugs and have a fiddle. Air filter is still to change as well. I'm enjoying it at any rate, and the headrest speakers are a cool touch. Insurance was a touch painful, not the £100 Classic car policy I'm used to!
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Jul 23, 2011 22:34:06 GMT
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Bit of an update. Fitted new HT leads, checked and gapped the plugs. And she now seems much happier. Still a little low on power below 4k but being a 16v that's to be expected. So I thought I'd have a fiddle with the rest of the car. kph clocks were bugging me so fitted a new mph face off ebay: And then started on the weight loss programme. An embarrasing amount of time taken to remove the carpet, and only found 5p in the process: And then thought I'd try the grp buckets I had kicking around bought on a whim to fit to something one day: Mmm, very nice and huggy, nice and low. Do I or don't I? If I do I'll miss the headrest speakers though.
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Jul 26, 2011 11:24:00 GMT
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Some better pics. Also decided to investigate the timing belt since heard being gutless below 4k can often be the belt being a tooth out. Had a fiddle and finding top dead centre on cylinder 1, it was out by at least one tooth on the top pulleys. They had the required 19 teeth between them so were in time with each other, but not the crankshaft. There was no evidence of timing marks, but a new looking belt so presume some previously did a shoddy job of replacing it and never set timing up after. New cam cover gasket arrived today so will refit my newly cleaned cover and see what she runs like: The seats are really growing on me, but fitting will be a pain as the mounting holes are just slightly out of where the factory runners bolt to the factory seats. If they were a lot out I could make a plate or similar, but they're close enough to hit the rails unless I raise the seat up of the rails on a U channel (if that makes sense at all! Could do with a spare set of seat runners to fiddle with.
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Jul 27, 2011 13:05:36 GMT
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1985 Mercedes W123 230E - 5 speed manual & 2011 BMW F11 520d Touring - 8 speed automatic.
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