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a) Electrical problems are seldom the only problem! 4) The household connector blocks... You mean these? They are just fine to use in theory, they are just ugly as sin, big, bulky, easy to over tighten and damage conductors and horrible in just about every way. As an aside, if you want a quick connector that is easy to use, reusable, neat, tidy and awesome in just about every way, wago connectors are wicked! LOVE them! The main problem with connector blocks is people use the wrong size (too big) and overtighten them, cracking the bottom of the casting. Either use the right size or double the cable over so it fills the connector. That saying, ive always used crimps for years as superior, and wago's where i can (i.e when stocked on company account). And don't be tempted by what another lad on here did and explain how its far superior to not strip the cable and let the screw of the connector bite down through the insulation. Thats what leads to poor, high resistance joints. (This info is not aimed at you btw fad, i gather that you know what your doing. What do you actually do job wise to have the knowledge youve displayed on electrics before? You seem a bit more involved than a normal sparky...)
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Go camping before the mot runs out, then re mot and build a new interior for a week away in august. Whitstable is calling!
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May 30, 2017 20:18:30 GMT
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Thanks very much for the responses! It seems as though the grand consensus is that they're not all that bad which is good. It's a shame to see that they don't fall into the cheape tax bracket. With that in mind I can not help but think I would perhaps be better off looking for a V6 of some sort perhaps in the 5 door version. Probably offer a better load space with the rear seats ripped out and probably a bit more fun, even if it is juicy. Thanks for the offer of the shogun jaykay but I've just sold my L200 and am looking for something ridiculously cheap (the Vitara k was looking at was a mere £200. At that money you'd leave it if it got stuck in the mud!) Thanks again guys and I'll keep this updated with whatever happens. No worries bt. I was only looking for about £300 for it anyways. Been messed bout twice on ebay and just want it off my bloody drive!
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p.s. certain aprilias were 33hp de-restricted. From what I remember the unrestricted versions weren't always privatised enough to reach the 33hp mark. Some were far below this but I can't seem to remember why off the top of my head. I had one many years ago and ploughed tonnes of money into it before I realised buying something half decent would provide the best bang for buck. Sorry for the off topic. It seems as though everyone has been spot on with the advice so my only input is to buy a bike! They're great. Definetly never gonna get a 33bhp aprilla. The little tzr125rr belgarda was the quickest one i think, and the gilera gfr? Maybe. Great little bikes though aprilla's.
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May 21, 2017 19:29:24 GMT
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Love the wheel choice. Not often that cloverleafs look good.
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May 21, 2017 19:27:29 GMT
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Ive got a cheap swb shogun if your after a cheap 4x4 wagon.got two grotty body mounta that need a weld for mot (january), tyre, and waterpump is leaking. Cool car tho. I bought a widearch swb and this is stuck on my drive. Done a clutch, shocks, brake rebuild and radiator since i bought. Took the mud terrains off for new one
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May 14, 2017 18:54:24 GMT
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Surely the only thing to do is cut springs and put a set of 90's wheels on. Mine was crusty, faded and also a budget 2 litre spec - felt like a boss razzing it around as a youngster with 17 x 9 azevs on it though.
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Vw vr6 run them too, and resonably priced
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Got any pics of the t25 ones? Are they just flat plain wood panel?
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Normal powder coating won't last outside it will chip if a stone hits it,I had my camper wheels powdercoated with a powder that is for outdoor use the company use it to paint tractor wheels. Cant say ive ever had that problem.
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Used to have a T25 Devon. At the bargain basement prices you are buying, at best, a project and at worst some rust coated in filler. I love 'em lol I was lucky enough to get mainly original paint someone had tried to 'rat look' i presume. Needed two rear arches and a sill repair, got a year out of it before that though. As bought: The wonders of graffiti paint and a spare set of wheels...
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Stay away from VW anything. Silly money for sod all van. Still cheapeys out there if you look about, and you can get good resale if thats your thing This was £450 when i bought it. But your kinda right on the sod all van. Drives like curse word, slow as curse word, and tiny inside. Hightop t25's are huge though, had one before.
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Apr 29, 2017 17:05:52 GMT
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I think its beetle / t2 ones on the back once you go low.
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Whatever setup you decide you need a coil or coils. The easiest cheapest way I foresee making it work is the standalone hall-distributer and amplifier unit from a later carb engine Mk2 golf, and you can still wore a hard cut limiter or fit a limited rotor arm, the petrol T25 used a limited RPM arm but it was quite low in speed, 4800 I believe but others are available. Thanks rich, i knew i needed a coil, but the info what dizzy needed is perfect. Although ive come across a kr lump on ebay which is literally round the corner from me, so i might go 16v now. Can i still use the mk2 carb dizzy on that oemr is it time for stand alone management? On the researh ive been doing people have mentioned the omex 4000. Id rather be able to get it running first rather than do that, and worry about upgrading later in the year.
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Apr 20, 2017 19:04:29 GMT
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My t25 diesel lump is wibblepoo. And broken. I'm looking at putting in a mk3 golf gti engine on bike carbs. What would i do about ignition set up? My mate was advising dizzy and points, the person selling the set up said he was running coil / dizzy and rev limiter.
Am i right in thinking i could run coil, dizzy and programmable limiter for simple install? And following that a programmable hard cut if i feel childish?
Thanks
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Apr 17, 2017 18:07:29 GMT
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Volvo and discovery arent possible. It will be her first car when she passes her test. She is 36, but insurance is daft! It doesnt seem to matter too much up to 1.6 but I cant find anything that is going to cost less than £1500 to insure. I like the lada idea, ill keep my eyes open. don't seem to be any on ebay under 1k at the moment but if she likes them I'm sure a bit of searching will find more available. If you like the idea of disco, shop for insurance. No ncd and 9 points makes mh insurance a ball ache, yet on a disco td5 and a shogun swb both cane in around £400 on a 4x4 only policy. I only drive em now as harder to get in trouble, easier to drive and i think a little bit safer too. Noone trys to play chicken or bully a curse word looking battered shogun with muds and a bull bar on it.
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I rate uniroyal rainsports. Really good tyre on pretty much anything i put it on, including a 260 brake 330d.
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I had that viglink thing. If you google it you can opt out and it stops doing it
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There are a lot of people out there to fleece hipsters (LVH have SO many vans in redoing exactly that sort of work). But there are a lot of people doing very good work for fair money. Don't be fooled by shiney paint jobs as examples of work done when you look for someone. Never, ever been fooled by a shiny paint job...i know how dull and rippled a t2 / t25 leaves the factory.
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I'd happily do it for you. But, MILES away! The reason you see that the skills on the readers rides threads is better than many garages, is because of love and time and money. Many people when faced with an estimate for welding properly will go "HOW BLOODY MUCH???" and then go to somewhere that will simply weld a patch over it so the MOT man can't see the rot, and away you go for a while, all done for a very cheap reasonable price. then the folk who can do it properly are assumed to be chancers and rip off merchants... So you end up with the people who can do it well not getting the work etc etc. In that lot you have put pics I can absolutely say with certainty that once anyone starts digging, they will find more. To do it properly will take time, but of course that costs. It's just how things are, people don't want to pay for the good jobs. the bodgers clean up, make a fair wedge and by the time the rot comes back the vehicle has usually changed hands. You can sleep in the van, if it helps. I know what you mean bout monies, but its a fine line between finding someone to do it properly, and someone out to take the scene hipsters for a ride. But i need to get it done, because i am otherwise letting a potential 5 grand van, or more importantly a summers worth of holidays, get away.the rot is mainly related to accident damage, its all quite localised ( ive had the hammer n chisel out). I could do without it, but i have the credit card with money transfer, and when its done my shogun will be sold and this take up the daily duties (have work van + misses car so part timer) so its getting done asap.
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