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Sept 12, 2015 17:03:52 GMT
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If the guy hadn't lived reet up in Scotland I'd have driven up there without a moment's hesitation! Good on your mate though, I bet the guy's face was a (rather bruised) picture :-D
Another scam to watch out for is - You win on eBay then go and collect & pay cash, the seller will then lodge an unpaid item case against you which will eventually result in them getting their seller fees refunded. For something big, like a car, it can be a decent amount of quids. This scam won't cost you owt financially, but it affects your reputation, particularly as they'll usually leave a neg feedback to bolster their case against you. Cretins.
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Last Edit: Sept 12, 2015 17:04:14 GMT by BigDaftAl
Al.
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Aug 30, 2015 12:20:36 GMT
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The fuelling is adjusted by adjusting the needle height, allen key accessed via the top of the piston. There is a tool available but a long allen key will do the job (can't recall the size). Lowering the needle height will weaken the mixture. Also check that any cold start/auto choke device isn't knacked. Google found this: www.bowtie6.com/other/zenith-stromberg-carburetter-repair/
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Last Edit: Aug 30, 2015 12:22:34 GMT by BigDaftAl
Al.
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Aug 25, 2015 18:59:19 GMT
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I have had some slating from the classic die hards, but I have a Mk1 Mexico in it's original form and it's OK but you wouldn't want to go far in it. So I thought I would make this Escort everything the Mexico is not, but keep it looking old skool, turned out to be a jem of a car and would have no worries going any distance in this Bloody hell. Who cares what the bobble hats have to say. This thing is awesome. I'm off to sell a kidney.
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Al.
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Aug 15, 2015 21:20:51 GMT
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The only ones I bother buying nowadays are Practical Classics (I read it to death) occasionally Classic Bike, and the odd mountain bike mag. However... I've just found these, and several more issues at my mother's house and I'm thoroughly enjoying the trip down memory lane!
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Al.
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Looks fantastic. If I had a choice of any wheel at all, I'd choose those every time. Winner.
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Al.
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Bookmarked. Interested to see how this turns out, you've got my mental cogs whirring now...! I fancy having a do myself.
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Al.
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Jun 12, 2015 20:06:46 GMT
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I've been using one of these today to flare the existing steel pipes to repair a rotten Discovery 3. I've never used one (or even seen one) before but I was very impressed and can definitely recommend it. I've tried so many different on car tools before that either refuse point blank to flare steel pipe, or make a crappy half-hearted attempt at it. This worked so well and was really simple to use.
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Al.
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Jun 11, 2015 19:21:02 GMT
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A vacuum hold isn't really the best method for leak testing, its main function is to boil off any moisture in the system (lower atmospheric pressure = lower boiling point) A system that leaks under normal operating conditions, i.e. under pressure, may well not leak at all under a vacuum as the forces acting upon seals the opposite way can actually mask a duff seal.
If you suspect it is actually leaking then it's best to get it filled with nitrogen and leak tested using a handheld detector. It's a big no-no to regas a system that is known to be leaking ;-)
Usual culprit in my experience is a pierced condenser (rad) usually through impact or corrosion or corroded/chafed wiring to the compressor. Chances are though, it's just lost refrigerant over time, this is normal. I can't remember the actual figure off the top of my head but a certain amount of refrigerant loss per year is considered acceptable.
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Al.
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Ooh yeah, I like this a lot! Bookmarked :-)
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Al.
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Lovely looking truck, I was desperate for a D21 pickup or one of these a couple of months ago, had to settle for an early D22 as time ran out:-( Typical that this comes up for sale now I've got a truck, I'd have had it in a heartbeat. Good luck with the sale. Have a free bump :-)
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Al.
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May 14, 2015 18:09:04 GMT
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This might sound ridiculous but if you flash the headlamps (after turning off the key), does that stop the engine? The reason I ask is that I've had an Orion Diesel and a Fiesta that wouldn't turn off until you flashed the lamps... It was many many years ago but I seem to recall the fuse/relay box was at fault, and maybe an ign switch on one too...
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Al.
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You should be able to download a code generator from the internet. I used to have a CD full of decoder programs when I worked in car audio, most of those were originally downloaded. Unfortunately I suspect my CD is buried under piles of curse word in my storage unit.
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Al.
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Mar 28, 2015 17:04:29 GMT
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A brake hose that has obviously been repaired using (as worded in the manual) "Compression joints of a type using separate ferrules" would fail as there is a specific reason for rejection (RFR) relating to it. Braided hoses that aren't leaking/twisted/fouling etc can't be failed just because the tester thinks they may have been assembled by a cak handed womble. It's all about the vehicle reaching the minimum standards required to pass the MOT on the day (or indeed in the hour-long slot) that it is being tested. If a tester is in any doubt, they will pass and advise (to cover their backside mainly, but to also keep the vehicle presenter informed of any possible future issues). In the past, testers were told, if in doubt - fail. Now the mantra is, if in doubt - pass & advise. Non testers, and the less mechanically minded would be surprised and probably a bit shocked as to exactly how bugg*red something has to actually be to fail a test nowadays! Hope this helps (I've been an MOT tester/QC for years) Edit: This is useful to read through. Start off in the left (information) column, then read the middle (method of inspection) column, then finally the right (reason for rejection), this is pretty much the process we use and unless it's there in black and white as a RFR then it's pass and advise. Although quite a lot is left to the tester's discretion, things like the brake hose in question, aren't.
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Last Edit: Mar 28, 2015 17:12:15 GMT by BigDaftAl
Al.
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I've been following this project with interest as it's something I'd love to do (along with a horsebox) I'm glad to see how well it's turned out; it's a credit to you, fantastic. And you don't ever need to apologise for posting up workmanship as good as this!
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Al.
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Feb 11, 2015 19:47:01 GMT
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I always advise putting the best tyres to the rear, as an oversteer situation is more difficult to recover from than understeer, hence putting the tyres with the best grip/traction on the back. Some customers agree, some don't so I personally just do what they want in the end.
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Al.
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Dec 28, 2014 11:39:48 GMT
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I agree, it is daft, but towards the end nothing that Rover did really ever surprised us!
The alarm should arm & disarm with the key in the door (has a microswitch behind the lock barrel) but you'll still need to keep the remote fob on the keyring as it holds the transponder chip which knocks off the immobiliser.
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Al.
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Dec 27, 2014 19:59:08 GMT
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If it's got the key on the pass side then it's unlikely to have central locking (although forgive me if I'm wrong, I left Rover in 2001) Does anything else lock/unlock (or try to) when you operate the key in the driver's door? The lower spec models didn't all get locking.
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Al.
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Dec 27, 2014 19:03:13 GMT
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Some didn't have central locking. Has it got a lock on the passenger side exterior door handle?
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Al.
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Tiger seal will work for a while but you'll find that as you wire brush the sump clean enough for the sealant to stick, you'll end up with a lot more holes!! I recommend you just bite the bullet and swap it! I've changed quite a few and they're pretty easy to do, remove the tin flywheel plate from the gearbox for access and if the exhaust bolts aren't seized it's definitely advisable to drop the exhaust at the front to give you more room to maneuver. It is possible to get the sump out with the exhaust in place but it's a bit of a ballache and I've seen people snap the oil pickup pipe by being too rough getting it past the exhaust.... The sumps are usually pretty well bonded on from the factory so you will bend the mating surface removing the thing, whilst that doesn't matter to you as you're chucking the old one, if you're fitting a second hand pan, check it for flatness first! :-)
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Al.
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Oct 10, 2014 20:03:39 GMT
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If the clutch arm isn't seized in the box (although it probably is) check the cable, they are self adjusting but the internal ratchet can fail. You can manually adjust it by twisting it where it enters the bulkhead, this will wind out the slack. It will probably go baggy again soon but if it improves things, you know the cable is at fault.
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Al.
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