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Thoroughly excellent thread. Very Kind, I do worry that i go into to much detail. to be honest i find the small uninteresting jobs seem to take up much time and thought. Prime example, I ended up cutting the top radiator support as it makes removing the engine much easer. I'm future it would be better if it was held in with bolts so it can easily be removed. I admit, it does hold the bonnet catch and the VIN plate so I wouldn't disagree that having it as part of the vehicle in't bad idea. its just me, and for that reason i want this to look as factory as possible 1. Weld on additional metal 2. Cut, file and weld crush tubes to reduce pinching when tightening bolts, 3. test fit many times, make sure bonnet latch works ect... 4. will weld in the nuts captive and then paint. I'm pretty confident it will hold the bonnet down and the factory reenforcing bar will prevent it from shifting when opening and closing the bonnet. I needed to stand in the engine bay to paint it so it missed the first paint-a-thon, iv got new wings on the way so it will get painted when they do. about an afternoons work there. I'm glad its done
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when i got the car the front springs were broken, but still sat properly. I bought some replacements from eBay and they turned out to be rubbish. they just sagged as soon as i put them on the car and have been progressively getting worse. Some might say its has a good 'stance' there but the sump is very close to the ground and i don't like it. after many a call to Mercedes Conway, then Mercedes Germany & Mercedes Heritage in Germany nobody could be arsed to give me the time of day. So I approached a company in Leed's called Spring Coil. After a quick chat "eyh, no problem" I sent down my old springs so they could re-manufacture to that spec. Fast forward a few weeks I figured having the front wings off would would make life abit easier. was interesting to see how the springs sit once installed. the springs were little bit taller and abit stiffer then the Ebay ones but its hard to tell, The om606 is 50+kg lighter so there will be an improvement somewhere.
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managed to get a couple to complete a couple of other things before the weather closes in, AGAIN High build and a fresh layer of 'China Blue' Got bit of a cheeky chicken at the moment, she would of probably leave claw prints an poop if i turned my back
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There is something about the w123s, one of cars I will need to own one day for sure. strongly recommend, £80 a year to insure Just hope you like welding
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so this is where i need you're help. i don't want to go crazy with the build, I'm Thinking send the pump away and get 7mm elements put in. also std om606 manafold but I'm not sure about turbo options? think they came with t25 or t3's, but if anyone has any advice, I don't want to go bananas. What pump do you have on there presently? The stock ECU controlled mechanical one? For what it will cost to send the pump away to Diesel Pump UK or to DieselMeken and get built with larger elements and modified to be used with a turbo (it'll also need an Alda to supply fuel on boost and perhaps some modification to the rack?) you may want to look at getting a turbo engine, the OM606.692 as you won't be able to use it to it's full potential with the NA motor - and would it be worth the cost to do otherwise..? The OM606.692 is pretty reasonable (I'd expect around 800 for a decent one with all the ancillaries) in the scheme of things for what your build will cost and I wouldn't be put off one that is even up around 150k. If you sold your NA motor then it would also probably be the cheapest way to get the turbo and manifold as well. If you do stick with the NA motor then I'd probably just get a stock pump, manifold and turbo off of a turbo motor and be happy with the 140-170bhp that it gives you, if not you'd need 6mm elements to match a stock turbo. Putting a tuned OM606 on a manual box you'll also need to sort out the jerking from a larger element pump or it'll be pretty un-drivable, you can get whats essentially an oiling kit from DPUK - the anti jerk kit. Budget for this on a manual box with a larger element fuel pump. In my estate which I am soon to take the engine out of to put in my MegaUMM Overlander project I have a purely mechanical pump (no electronic controls) from Dieselmeken with 8mm elements in it, it has a Borg Warner 200SX quick spool hybrid turbo with 0.63 A/R housing and billet compressor wheel and a Turbo smart external waste gate. It's making 400bhp presently, all it needs is the Bosch 044 pump I have in its glovebox wiring in and it'll make 450 - 500bhp. It's currently on a modified AMG box which has been drilled (the flare mod), a home brew paddle shift system and is mechanically man enough for the job, but this I will be swapping to an AX15 manual box and Dana 300 in my overlander - because of this I have the Anti-Jerk system ready to bolt on when I take it out of the estate - it'd be undriveable without the jerk system. If it was my money I'd be selling the NA motor, getting a stock turbo motor for not much more with the turbo, manifold and pump on already and running it like that with its controller. Then in the future I'd be swapping to a purely mechanical pump with 8mm elements and the same turbo setup I've got on mine. " greencarfritz " you're a hero. I was on the fence with the anti Jerk thing, but ill take your advice. I picked up the n/a as it was dirt cheep, had a mechanical pump , came with all the manual gearbox bits i needed & was delivered. I plan on running it to destruction. Like you say I can pick up turbo engines quite easily but i just want to get the build mocked up and shaken down abit. I was going to get the budget turbo kit from DPuK, so 7.7mm elements and 35mm holset. ill stick with the std lift pump as believe the rear end in a w123 are quite fragile?? your build sounds epic! btw
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Spent the evening cleaning the in preparation for painting. I don't know how people get there kicks form cleaning engine bays. its worse then cleaning an oven, a massive greasy awquard oven that's spent its life in student accommodation once cleaned and gone over with panel wipe though i should spot cover the areas of exposed metal, there was quite allot.
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When trying to remove the passenger wing, every time i juggled it i could here the sound of rusty metle grinding together then hitting the floor. Wasn't surprised to see the hole, but instead the sill was full shredded paper, but no singes of filler or bodgeriei. Clearly a mouse had been hibernating in the sill . unfortuantly for the mouse, the car or I are not a charity so after evicting the curse word though i would should evict it for good. The engine bay is full of patches of surfice rust so i thought I would give the rust -to-metal converting gell a go though i would see how it would do on something abit more far gone Other then the bird S**T like crud around the edge i thought i did alright Joking aside, this study is amazing. first it goes a green/gold colour, then just turned to a bright clean steel
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Ideal candidate for a super diesel build i hope? failing that, I do have a 717.430 and prop shaft going if you want a 5 speed box Noooo…….. I've had plenty of speedy cars and that's far from the point of this one. It's its very basicality, lazy pace and lack of frills that is it's appeal for me. Thanks for the offer though! I like your style. they make great jalopies!
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Ideal candidate for a super diesel build i hope?
failing that, I do have a 717.430 and prop shaft going if you want a 5 speed box
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being between Jobs has left me abit short this month so no performance parts this month unfortunately. So I'll focus on some body work instead. whilst I'm tackling the engine bay, I may swell slap some new wings on it. currently
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I have been kind of gambling that my clutch combination will work, likely i have a collection of clutch forks and release bearings. with help form a crowbar i can test if the clutch would reales properly. I finally settled for: Sprinter solid mass fly wheel. Sprinter pressure plate 308 friction plate G-wagon fork and release bearing w124 slave cylinder.
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Prop shaft is off to be shortened, it might be some time before its back so i though it might be a good time to tidy the engine bay. but whilst the engine and box are in position though i would have a crack at the gear linkage. Was Now Wasn't a straight swap but did squeeze in, selects all the gears ok but will need tweeking. no biggy (famous last words)
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Feb 23, 2020 21:23:20 GMT
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sump clearance is quite tight but i don't think it will be an issue I don't have a pic, but the gearbox bolted up the the existing mounts, hopefully there won't be a need to modify gear linkage. but the prop might need to be trimmed down, It looks mainly close enough to give it a go but I'm looking around to see if the prop from a 240D auto will fit.
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Feb 23, 2020 21:16:18 GMT
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the OM606 sat perfectly in the car on the W124 engine mounts but i was unable to shut to bonnet, the w124 hydraulic mounts are quite tall but the w123 mounts are allot thinner, but will need bit of modification to the car. So a rare brake in the weather gave me a chance to crack the welder out. so it looks like i can use the existing engine mount on the drivers side but will need to extend the passenger side. hot glue it in It's not particularly precise but i hoping the screw in the bumper is centred, with that assumption in mind i think its sitting very nicely. bonnet will also shut now too. I was abit concerned that the rad wouldn't fit but shouldn't be a problem, will need an electric fan ddaaamm that engine looks good in there.
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Last Edit: Feb 23, 2020 21:49:27 GMT by space goat
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Feb 20, 2020 19:22:59 GMT
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Making a start, I'm pretty sure I'm going to need to get the prop shaft shortened, can anyone recommend someone who can do this?
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Feb 20, 2020 19:15:35 GMT
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The Sprinter single mass conversion showed up. looks like it will work, but did run int an issue. the input shaft on the g-wagon shaft needs to go through the flywheel and into the pilot bearing in the crank, and the bore in the in the sprinter flywheel was too small. Not a big issue but not one i can easily take care of in my shed. There tends to be a long wait and much nagging to get small jobs done in machine shops around here, but a quick google returned a shop just up the road. www.facebook.com/machineworkscaernarfon/I show up un-announced had a short hat about the job and head for breakfast with mrs space goat. driving home i get a call saying the job is done! Had a better chat when i came to collect. He was a home gammer until everyone nagged him to build engines for them (including dealerships) If you need head work or a 300hp n/a XE engine give him a shout
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Feb 18, 2020 17:23:50 GMT
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work has been unstable recently so projects have been on hiatus. They final announced going into administration just before Christmas with 150+ redundancies on the day, I was one of the unfortunates to be kept on to keep the lights on infill stock runs down. Fortunately I have managed to find work just down the road (not easy in north wales) So let the impulse commence. I got a roomer that a W123 230e estate was for sale in the area, I'm not really into the Petrol and auto boxes so a quick scan on eBay returned an NA OM606 with 5 speed manual. Plan A: sell the saloon, to help fund the OM606 estate build. Plan B, if the estate is a dog: slam the 606 into the saloon. We'll unfortunately the estate turned out to be bit of a dog. so OM606 saloon is a Go! a quick check of the 5 speed box turned out it was a fragile example. so back on eBay. and yet again eBay provides! 717.401 g-wagon 5 speed gearbox, also means i can ditch the dual mass flywheel, we will see how this goes... g wagon box is on the left G-wagon box is a fair bit heavier and bigger, so looks like ill be having to get the prop shortened. eehhhrrr so this is where i need you're help. i don't want to go crazy with the build, I'm Thinking send the pump away and get 7mm elements put in. also std om606 manafold but I'm not sure about turbo options? think they came with t25 or t3's, but if anyone has any advice, I don't want to go bananas.
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Last Edit: Feb 18, 2020 20:26:12 GMT by space goat
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Feb 15, 2020 18:46:20 GMT
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Last Edit: Feb 15, 2020 18:51:42 GMT by space goat
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Well soon as i get the Citroen through an MOT its the Benz's Turn. Fortunately i did most of the suspension stuff when it was warmer and the days were longer, but I had put the number plate and more importantly the headlights. turns out my attempt at plating the headlamp reflectors didn't produce a very good pattern. I was also growing increasingly tired of trying to find a decent replacement that wasn't a stupid price. Then i saw these and got to thinking they have been sitting book marked in my browser for a long time, and when i noticed the prices have come down allot since then i thought BINGO! note: the projector kit only works with H1 HID bulbs, so i had to upgrade to these too. 1) find a day when Mrs space goat if out so i can work in a warm kitchen the unit includes a shutter active by a solenoid for high & low beam 2) strip out old bulb & refelector 3)assembly, the projector kit mounts straight into the old H4 mounts 4) stand back and admire 5) ehhrr wiring.... Those ahead of the curve will already know h4 bulbs have separate circuits for high and low beam and H1's don't. I didn't. also the Benz and i suspect all other cars possessing H4 lamps don't use these circuit's simultaneously. So when i connected the HID kit to the dip beam, when go to main beam or flash i have no lights. not good. 5.1) use 5 pin relay to with the supply from dip beam circuit to main beam circuit i though this was genius summery: turning high beam on will switch relay to use high beam circuit unfortunately the HID kit really doesn't like being turning on and off quickly so this idea soon when out the window 5.2) hack the car's wiring I was hoping i could fudge a relay but all the wiring diagrams looked bit simple, too simple turns out the switching of the circuits is done by the column switch, i was beginning to loose faith at this point. Then though i should take a look at the plug for the column switch, and Bingo on the first two pins i try i find the dip and main beam! faith is restored, by bridging these the HID kit will have a continue supply flipping between dip and main beam. 5.2.1) remove 5 pin relay (if you haven't tried draw.oi for drawings yet you must give it a go) 5.2.2) crudely hack plug night before MOT winner low beam High MOT passed They do work well, but you only really notice when driving another vehicle with H4's O yeah, and the number plates
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Nov 11, 2019 18:36:19 GMT
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I'm pretty sure pezz spec is alive and well. there been a couple of times i get into the same car but in a different country (normally a developing county) and notice the seats have less padding, missing central locking and power assisted anything less sound insulation and sometimes less power. Clearly the UK is more asperatinal ...
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