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Jun 19, 2018 13:43:30 GMT
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Hard to say. It runs smooth in your video. I’ve seen cars with Vslve Seat recession but more consistent readings than yours run much worse. Are the spark plug apertures clean for 3 and 4? A washer stuck down on them maybe? While it is tempting to call it a HG, i’d check to see the threads and where the spark plug bottoms out in the head is clean; this could be why it was hissing. I’d want a leakdown test to confirm it. Ah, I should say, that video was from a week or two before the first post here - was running fine. Spark plug apertures and threads all looked fine but I’ll double check this evening. Cheers for the suggestion. Want to do the leak down test but haven’t got the tools or compressor to hand.
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Jun 16, 2018 17:18:50 GMT
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[edited] Just got round to doing a compression test:br] Cylinder 1: 110psi (100 wet) Cylinder 2: 128 psi (125 wet) Cylinder 3: 10 psi (5 wet) Cylinder 4: 5 psi (5 wet)
There was also a hissing sound during the testing of 3 and 4.
That'll be a new head gasket in order then?
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Last Edit: Jun 17, 2018 13:50:19 GMT by rhymeface
Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Jun 15, 2018 14:28:14 GMT
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Cheers for the responses!
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Jun 11, 2018 14:11:22 GMT
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OK, the plug in cylinder 4 was wet. Others have a fair bit of corrosion. That along with the steam would be a good indicator of a failed head gasket, right?
I was going to properly inspect the carb as I wondered whether the mounting plates may have warped but at any rate, the intake gaskets probably need replacing (were makeshift rather than proper gaskets). Accelerator cable also needs replacing. So they intake is off.
I popped the rocker cover - oil doesn't look caramel in any way. Looks translucent as oil should (right?). But that needs re-setting.
I needed to drain the coolant prior to intake removal, so that needs refilling.
So, my question is, should I put it back together at this stage and carry out more tests?
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Jun 11, 2018 10:15:31 GMT
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Do you have a video? As said, knocking can be a major problem. I did try and get one on the road but you can't hear it in the video over the general road and air noise. I might be able to drive round the block slowly and get a friend to do a vid. I did manage to get this the other day which may well be connected but what I thought was a separate issue, streamable.com/szogbThis was filmed on a warm day with the car up to temp. The car has been losing coolant - weirdly, it seems to have stopped now but up to the weekend before last, I was having to fill it up on a weekly basis. The amount of steamy exhaust that appears varies - that video shows the worst but yesterday on the drive back, sitting at some traffic lights, it was proper billowing and got worse with a bit of black smoke on pulling away. Just about to go down to the garage now and have a look, so will update further in a bit. Thanks for all your help so far.
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Jun 10, 2018 20:16:53 GMT
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I've just read back through your previous posts. Ignoring the description of a knocking noise ... In my experience whenever anyone says "knocking noise" on a car forum it's very each to reach for the "Your big end's gone mate" drama, when we all have a different interpretation of what actually constitutes a knocking noise. If it's really pronounced then that's the issue and it could be serious. Otherwise it could just be a byproduct of a temporary fault. So it seems over the last X months you've changed the intake manifold, put a copy of a Weber DGEV on (32/36? and an electronic choke?) and you've tackled the coolant system. Based on this, my first guesses would be (and again I'm ignoring the "knocking" reference here) that maybe you've developed a leak at the intake manifold, or the servo is faltering (mine went earlier this year and your description above is very similar to what I experienced) or there's something gone wrong with the carb. One thing you can try is to remove the servo hose from the servo (it runs from the servo to the intake manifold) and block it off with a bolt, then see of the car runs easier. Check your brake fluid level and see if that's dropped significantly too. If you do disconnect your servo hose beware the brakes will probably feel very different! Have you overtightened the carb and it's started to warp the base allowing air to seep in? Have you checked the choke to make sure it fully opens and closes as it should? If it's stuck ajar and can't operate properly it will make starting groggy and will also make running lumpy once worm. Maybe as a stage 1 you might want to get the car idling without the air filter on and blast carb cleaner into the carb throat, and spray WD40 around the carb base and the intake manifold while its running to to see if that changes the idle revs. Also inspect all the choke and throttle movements and give them a clean too. Maybe your timing has slipped and you need to get the timing gun on it. Maybe your vacuum advance pipe has come off, split, or has a little hole in it. Press on all of your HT leads and king lead. Maybe you haven't reconnected them properly after doing something. Maybe you've got a badly fouled plug and you're running one three cylinders or you have a dirty spark. Maybe your coil is breaking up. Maybe you have oil leaking onto the clutch assembly. Does it seem to need much higher revs to make the car get up to speed? It could be a tonne of things really. It would be better to assume/hope the knocking is merely a by-product of an engine not running right... unless it's a really dramatic knocking which cannot be ignored. Thanks so much for this, fella. I consider this a learning opportunity, so will go through all your points tomorrow morning when I go look at the car again - only just managed a 20 minute trip home after seeing your reply.
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Last Edit: Jun 10, 2018 20:17:15 GMT by rhymeface
Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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EDIT: changed the title as it might prove more helpful for people experiencing similar problems.
The car is a 1988 Nissan Sunny N13 - has a 4 cyl SOHC 1.6 petrol engine.
Had a few issues with this engine over the past few months since winter and now it's has just developed a new one. Bit rough on starting up and idling. Then when I hit the road there was this noticeable banging sound that sped up with the engine. Only there on acceleration. Car also judders and lurches on acceleration. Noticeable loss of power as well. Where to start??
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Last Edit: Jun 18, 2018 14:56:18 GMT by rhymeface
Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Also.......why are we even discussing this.....just send them away to be stripped.....it's only a tenner a wheel....or better still. Send them off to be chemically stripped, blasted and coated.....it's only £20 a wheel Is that the going rate for the whole job from old paint to new? I've got a set of wheels I was going to have a go at refurbing but every story I read just sounds like a ballache vs £100 - £200 getting it done professionally.
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Cool, thanks man!
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Quick follow up to this to make sure I don't fry myself or my car,
Just watched a video on Youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tK9lB1hH-8w) which essentially explains the wiring but for a bike. He says send 85 to the battery negative. We're saying earth. Is it OK to earth the 85 in the same place as the existing horn earth OR do I need to wire 85 to the battery negative?
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Apr 27, 2018 17:49:01 GMT
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Depending on access, drill/ grinder/ Dremel, hammer and chisel through the front of the cylinder in roughly the spots where the bolts are, then pull it out from that side and the bolts should drop out. You'll probably end up knocking up an entire new brake pipe, naturlich... Took the plates off the knuckle in the end. Reckon I'll have a go at getting the old cylinder - this is just one side,mind - haven't even looked at the near side. Hopefully can salvage the plates as sourcing replacements hasn't been too fruitful. Managed to get new pipes and hoses in though, so that was a small win.
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Cut it off and make new pipes. Sometimes you can cut the seized fitting off the old line and re-flare it, depends if there's any slack tho.. So be it. Just wanted to check there wasn't a less drastic solution. Not enough slack to reflare the existing pipe unfortunately.
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Apr 23, 2018 19:15:18 GMT
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So this week's adventure is to sort out the rear brakes. The cylinders aren't right (one is broken) and the drums are pitted and hard to adjust right.
So I figured - new drums, new bearings, new brake parts, cylinders, hoses and hardlines.
Get down to it - the cylinder is entirely corroded on. Can't budge any of the flare nuts or mounting bolts on the cylinder.
Worst still, even though I used a flare nut wrench (and gently), I seem to have rounded off the cylinder nut.
What are my options?
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Apr 13, 2018 14:13:20 GMT
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OK, I'll double check the existing horn circuit. Nice one!
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Apr 13, 2018 13:52:28 GMT
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Hang on, you're all going a bit too fast for my newbie mind (but thanks a lot for all the info!).
So, going on edk and Rich's comments, I:
1. leave things as were with the standard fuses and relay but wire the factory relay live into 86 on the new relay 2. leave the factory relay earth as is 3. wire 87 to the compressor live 4. leave the compressor earth as is 5. earth 85 6. Wire 30 to to a 30a fuse and then to the battery using 40a wire
I take I'd need to add an additional fuse box for that new wire, right? If anyone's got a link to vid that correctly explains wiring it up, I'd appreciate a suggestion.
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Apr 12, 2018 13:16:37 GMT
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You've kinda covered it yourself in your question. The OE fuse is rated at 10a blow. The compressor requires 30a. Replacing fuses with higher ratings isn't sensible. Using the original relay trigger wires fit a new 40a relay and fuse with new wiring from the battery, and secure and safely insulate the old wiring. Thanks for the clarification. It did come with a 4-pin relay (stock Sunny relay is only 3 pin), so I'll install that. Take it it might be worth upgrading the wire as well, right? Also, can I use the existing horn fuse slot for the new fuse?
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Apr 12, 2018 10:36:40 GMT
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I've installed an air horn on the Sunny because Honk! Honk!
Wired it up to the existing relay for the horn - seemed atraight forward enough:
1. Removed the two old horn buzzers - each only running a live wire from the relay and then earthing at their mounting points.
2. Ran one of those live wires to the positive terminal of air horn compressor and a wire from the negative compressor terminal to a convenient earth point.
Only used it a few times and it's blown the 10A fuse. Can understand that when I realised the compressor is 30A.
What I'd like to know is can I replace the 10A horn fuse with a 30A fuse or is that a really dodgy fire risk?
Also, while it's just popped into my head, there is one old live wire that went to the second of the two original horns - do I need to do anything with that? I just taped over the connector.
All help greatly appreciated.
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Mar 29, 2018 13:09:44 GMT
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Don't know the rear set up but a Panhard rod would do this if it's been lowered. They have a panhard rod. You can buy or make adjustable ones or even get special bushes that push the axle back over. Is the car lowered? This exaggerates the problem The white bar pictured is your issue. Obviously not a sunny but gives you an idea. Yep, lowered on lowering springs. Thanks a lot for the tip. I'll have a look. This isn't noticeable with the 14"/7J wheels I bought with the car but is with the 15"/8J wheels taking up more of the wheel arch.
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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You sit in the drivers side so it will be a few mm lower so driver side tyres will be the 1st to rub. If you have a noticeable difference on a flat surface then bushes, springs, alignment, body work etc Yeah, I factored in weight distribution and made sure the car was empty when parked - the above difference is noticeable at that point.
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Just trying out some new wheels on my 88 Sunny and noticed that rear driver's side wheel is skimming the wheel arch while the other side isn't.
Would that be a sign of a problem with the shocks? Any tips on checking it out?
The difference is at least a cm between left and right.
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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