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Feb 15, 2017 16:36:43 GMT
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This is a tricky one as your car does idle but cuts out approaching junctions. Mk2 Polos were plagued with this problem as were very hard to get to idle and as soon as you came to junction and fut was off gas carb was effectively going back to idle mode and cut out but you seem to be able to get it to idle so sounds like a different issue. Believe it or not with the Polo the problem was often down to the 'dwell' on points ignition not being long enough. I take it your car has electronic ignition. Thanks for the feedback!
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Feb 13, 2017 23:24:00 GMT
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Hi all, Got some questions regarding carbs and adjusting the autochoke and idle speeds. The car is a 1988 Nissan Sunny with the E16s 4-cyl SOHC engine. Carb has an electric autochoke. The car doesn't warm up too quickly and is prone to stalling for the first 10-15 minutes when I'm breaking to approach a junction and take my foot off the throttle/disengage the clutch. Local mechanic suggested the autochoke might not be working right. I think it is as it high idles when first started and then drops the revs down after 2-3 minutes. Is that standard time for the car to warm up. i notice that the high idle is only 15-1600 rpm when the Haynes spec says it should be more like 2200. Any thoughts on why it might be so low? The normal idle is about 600rpm. Again, that's lower than the spec - apparently should be more like 800rpm. i found these two articles, www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2009/10/The-Lost-Art-of-Choke-Adjustment/2144991.html - not sure if that just applies to larger US cars www.vw-resource.com/choke2.html - seemed to make sense despite it being specifically aimed at VWs. i adjusted the position of the autochoke OK but didn't seem to make much difference in the warm-up. I was going to adjust the normal idle but noticed the screw t the back of the carb is really easy to turn - like no resistance to me adjusting it. Is that right? I want to dig into this and try and fix myself. All advice really appreciated and can provide photos if neccessary. This is a diagram of the carb in question, repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/1c/e6/0a/large/0900c152801ce60a.gifOh, and I notice that the spring that connects to the accelerating pump lever had come out of it's hole on the side of the carb. I can reposition it but it dislodges everytime. Would that have a significant affect on the carb function? Cheers for reading
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Nip that in the bud NOW! What car is it? I've noticed a couple of scabs on my mother's Rover 75 and that's the first plan of action when the weather clears as it can spread much quicker than expected. That's what killed her last car, a MK1 Focus. What looked like a scab ended up as serious structural rust underneath the underseal 1988 Nissan Sunny. These Cornish winters are the worst.
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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On this topic, I've noticed rust starting at the bottom front corner of the driver's door. Should I be nipping this in the bud now?
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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Here's a little beaut I picked up a few months ago. The thread advertising the uncustomised incarnation of this car is on here if you hunt around for it. Just shy of 60k on it when I bought it and clean as a whistle for it's age. The owner before the fella I bought it from undertook any customisation you can see - the alloys, lowering it slightly, and adding the boot lip spoiler (actually just some door trim). I wouldn't minds replacing the interior at some point as it's a mix of brown and flat-cap tweed material. Also need to replace the rear window regulators so if anyone has a lead on that, do drop me a line. [/quote]
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Nissan N13 owner | Mechanical neonate since 2016 (Give me all the info)
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