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Jan 26, 2010 19:29:38 GMT
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most of the engine bay wiring is finished. got idle speed control valve working, it idles very well now, even without any water. checked rev counter and it reading right. got temp gauge hooked up, reverse lights, alternator, all that curse word. pretty happy with it all so far. i guess the next step is to get a radiator set up and put some water in it and see what happens. pic. wires almost finished, still got the white wire to re locate (had no appropriate gauge wire for that) and a few little bits but its starting to look pretty good. more things have been done. Ive finished the fuel pump wiring. most people just run the fuel pump off the key (because 1UZ's have weird twin speed fuel pump signals, or a completely separate ecu to run the fuel pump) but i wanted the fuel to cut out if the motor stopped, like in a crash or something so i used an LPG safety switch. its basically a relay that works when it gets a pulse from the tacho, or anything that outputs a pulse, you can run it using a trigger from the injectors. anywho, it has a 5 second timer in it so you have 5 seconds from when you turn the key on to actually start the motor. Ive also stuck some temporary mufflers on it but it hasn't made any difference, its still megga loud. been working on getting the radiator mounted and i also have a 16" fan ordered for it which i should pick up tonight. apart from that Ive had a few issues with the clutch line leaking. its not easy to remove the clutch lines with a v8 in the way. you know things are difficult when you have to start cutting spanners in half just to get the nut undone. and i also put the wrong length spedo cable in the car so i had to change that with the motor in the way. apart from that shes all good. i shall continue to move forward. well, the radiator and fan is all mounted up and working fine, i don't have the thermo switch installed yet but i do have an override switch on the dash which is all hooked up and working. i filled it up with water and got it hot. no dramas to report. put a cap on the rad and got some pressure in the system and no leaks!!. the 16" fan seems to drop the temp fairly quickly so thats all good. and i didnt stuff up the hoses after all so that another plus. finished painting the engine covers and put them all back on the motor.. ive put the bonnet back on and its starting to look like a car again. i have to paint the filler panels (between the bumper and the grill) and the rad support panel. still have stuff to do like make throttle cable, find and fit bonnet catch, find and fit a radiator overflow bottle and screen washer bottle. have to make an air cleaner too. I'm sure theres more but i cant think of it at the mo... stuff is getting done. yay.
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Jan 26, 2010 19:27:35 GMT
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IT GOES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! connected fuel, flushed lines and hit the starter and it fired 3rd compression!!!! it sounds incredible with just the headers on it, its curse word loud though. i want to keep revving it and listening to it but its way to loud for that. will have to wait till i get home from work tomorrow and start it again, just so i can rev it. megga streisand!!! filmed on location, using my phone just moments ago. takes a little while to load but it gives you an idea of the sound.
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Jan 26, 2010 19:25:17 GMT
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passengers side finished bar O2 sensor and some brackets. after dinner ill go and finish the drivers side, or at least get a bit closer to finished. end of the pipes with transition pieces welded on. collector tacked in place. finished item. right then, its off back to the shed for me. sheepers zorsts are finished, O2 bosses, heat shields made and brackets to bolt them to zorsts done. the extractors are currently at heat treatments getting stress relived then ill coat them. in other news i put the flywheel on and the clutch on. the gearbox is mounted up and i think ive pulled every muscle in my arms by lifting the gearbox with one arm while doing up the bolt with the other. to get it to run i need, insert engine and connect hoses/lines/electrodes and telescopes for good measure dodge up a fuel supply (have no tank or idea where/how a tank will go at this stage but fuel lines are made to the back) wire it up radiator? prob start it without this. i have some pretty good instructions and diagrams for the wiring but time will tell. its getting very exciting now more progress. brake bias valve acquired and installed so all brake lines are now finished. clutch line had to be moved to clear zorst so thats done. extractors are at the heat treaters being normalized and stress relived. i plugged the loom all back in and connected power to the car for the first time since Ive owned it and everything works. got head and tail lights, brake lights, indicators, dash lights, heater fan, cigarette lighter, horn, windscreen wipers and the relay's click when i hit the starter. got no handbrake warning light as yet and no light in my charge/oil pressure gauge. but all else is good. i have to tidy up/paint a few things them the motor can go in for permanent. ill twist a few wires together and it should go! but somehow i think its going to be a bit more difficult than that. sheepers tonight i got the zorsts back from the heat treaters and gave them a coat of paint. i then proceeded to put the engine in for the last time. i am megga stoked that the engine is in properly. i can now concentrate on the wiring and get it to run. here are some pics so this update docent fail, firstly, the obligatory "standing in the empty engine bay" shot (i should point out that all car work is done wearing my alter-ego persona's mask of "the great ballsupinator") engine in the hole for final, zorsts on, heater hoses connected, power steer lines in, fuel lines ready to go, clutch on, break lines in place, etc. all done ready for the next step. megga stoked!! sheepers (the great ballsupintor)
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Jan 26, 2010 19:22:24 GMT
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some more progress. the extractors are a good way towards being finished. the drivers side was a nightmare with many weld/cut/reweld/recut/reweld events taking place but ive got it exactly were i want it now. there is 4mm clearance per side so you can understand how much of an its been. the passengers side was a breeze compared to the drivers side. tuned length they aint, but they will do the job i require. ive run out of joiners and bits so this is as far as i can go till monday. once they are finished ill get them normalised and stress relived to help stop cracking, then ill get them coated. sheepers.
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Jan 26, 2010 19:19:55 GMT
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here are some pics so you can see the lushness. new fuel lines and a heat sheild to protect them from the zorst. crossmember and mounts with heat shields (factory). i re-filed the flats on the rack so i could lay it back slightly towards the fire wall. this gives me heaps more room for the zorst and it gets the fluid outlet pipe away from the sump. bit hard to tell but thats how its sitting. motor with a shiny coat of paint and ready to go back in (again) dog is unimpressed. motor in the hole again. ive made up some rails that hang down from the cam cover bolts and are the same shape and in the same place as the chassis rails. this way i can bolt them to the motor when its on the stand and have a good idea of where the rails and steering are when I'm making the exhaust. i take delivery of a beautiful new AC/DC tig welder tomorrow. its got variable everything and a foot control. I'm looking forward to making some more alloy bits without having to struggle welding using DC only... with this new toy ill make the drivers side heat shield (for the rack boot and fluid inlet outlet.) and lots of other fun stuff like catch cans and swirl pots and such. sheepers.
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Jan 26, 2010 19:18:31 GMT
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ive been working on this car flat out recently. the motor is all back together and ready to go. traction control gear is all gone from the TB, loom is all stripped and back on the motor. hydraulic fan drive is gone and the cambelt and water pump are new. ive sorted the rack and the crossmember and thats all ready to go. new fuel lines are in as well as brake and clutch lines. i need to make the hoses to go to and from the power steer pump and make up some heat shields for where the zorst goes past the fuel lines. manifold flanges are being made and ill be making extractors this week. I'm aiming to have the extractors finished by next weekend. then ill get them stress relived and coated. then the motor can go in for the final time. PROGRESS!!!!! YAY!!!!
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Jan 26, 2010 19:17:41 GMT
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i had to ditch the crossmember and rack that was in the car when i bought it. i measured the bump steer and got 13mm of toe in at 50mm of travel, less than ideal. so, i bought an TE71 powersteer rack and crossmember off tardme and used that. i measured it all up and found that it needed to be spaced down by 25mm to get to LCA inner mounting points back to factory, but since i wanted to get the motor as low as possible i went another 15mm bellow this (which is the same as my RA23) giving a total of 40mm. this is the crossmember shortened and with the spacers welded on it. the corners are cut at an angle to clear the sway bar. once i had this sorted it was time to make mounts for the motor and box and bolt the thing down. nothing too exciting really, i cut the mounts off the crossmember that are shown above, used the original motor mounts and just made some little platforms for them to sit on. i used the gearbox mount that came with the box, not sure what its out of but fit a bit better than the standard RA one and extended the floor mounting position using a bit of 50 x 50 angle welded to the floor. motor bolted down, with the motor where it is and the new rack in place i have a bit more room for the drivers side extractors. its still going to be tight but not as bad as before. ive now got the motor in a million bits replacing the cam belt and the waterpump and also taking the loom out so i can chop out the bits i don't need and get it all sorted to run. sheepers.
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Jan 26, 2010 19:16:48 GMT
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this is one of my money pits. I bought it off a friend who had it for 13 years. it will have a 1UZ motor with the usuial bits and pieces. ive put a R32 GTR rear sub frame in it and ill be using the GTR front brakes. its not black, it dark purple. was talking to someone at the nats, for some reason I cant quite remember who it was, about the rear sub frame in my 28. heres a few photos, feel free to question my sanity. my wife does. this is the arms at about the correct ride height. I will have about 30mm of travel before the wheel goes into neg camber. I will have to make new A arms to narrow the track by about 95mm per side. origonal mounting points nearly line up with the chassis rail. this space saver is about 620mm in dia which will be about right for a 16x9 wheel. this is the front mount, almost on the rail as well. it'ill be nice and strong when ive finished. didnt have to cut too much out....... this is me hard at work in my old shed. we've moved house and my new shed is much bigger now, YAY!! I stuck te 8 in the hole to see what the hell ive let myself in for. the motor is sitting on the rack, which it turns out is to high in relation to the crossmember anyway. I haven't measured the bump steer (which is the first thing ill be doing when I take the motor back out) but I reckon its gruesome!! I didnt do the R&P conversion, it was like that when I bought it and its not good. my main decision at this point is do I stick with whats there and try to make it work for both the motor and the steering geometry or do I start again??? time will tell. anywho, on to the pics this is with the fame of my other bonnet on the top. even though the motor will go down by about 40mm it still fits under the bonnet as it is. so yea, the drivers side extractor is going to be "interesting" but not to bad for a first try. latter, sheepers
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Last Edit: Jul 17, 2015 7:05:14 GMT by sheepers
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Jan 26, 2010 19:11:58 GMT
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the only pics i have of it since t he re-spray.
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Jan 26, 2010 19:07:01 GMT
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aaaaaaaannnddddd, were back, better pics tomorrow but you get the idea. she's all back together and straight. sheepers.
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Jan 26, 2010 19:05:22 GMT
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i borrowed some 1" wide spacers to see if i could get away with wider wheels on the back. the answer is "yes i can!" with the springs removed and the car sitting on the bumps the inside wheel rubs, i can still turn the wheel by hand so its not much, with the addition of an adjustable panhard rod and the tyres being on a slightly wider rim it will give me enough clearance between the tyre and the guard. the plan is to get some 1" wider outer shells for my rear wheels. go the dish. this will give me 15 x 9 rears with 0 offset. ill be running 205 50 15's on the back (this is the widest they make my chosen tyre in). it will be tight but so, so worth it. sheepers
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Jan 26, 2010 19:02:51 GMT
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this happened at the last track day. after the incident my and KK checked the car over and decided all as well, a little bent on the outside but the important bits were ok, so i went back out and raced for the rest of the day. the car was fine (except for the radiator fan falling off) i did a 1.25.1 before the crash and i did the same time latter in the day. the car felt fine so I'm sure nothing fundamental was bent. skip forward a few months and I'm now back from holiday and getting stuck into fixing the damage. ive pretty much fixed all the little bits that were bent, my great friend Peter is going to fix the gard and the bonnet but the rest is done and ready to go back together. if i really needed to i could drive it to work on monday so all in all, not to bad. ill hold off re-spraying the gard/bonnet for the meantime. i want to concentrate my time (and more importantly my money) on getting my RA28 going. its been waaaaaaaaaayyy to long since that car has moved under its own power. my only regret is nothing. i built this car to race, and race i shall!! sheepers
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Jan 26, 2010 19:00:53 GMT
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i have finally got around to cutting and polishing the paint which has been un touched since it was painted. i used 1200 dry on a palm orbital, followed by 3000 diamond pads that are used wet on the orbital. then a cut with a standard foam pad/polisher and cutting/polishing compound. then finally a wax with mothers something or other step two stuff for the swurls. as per usual the pics don't show how good it looks in real life but these will give you an idea. sheepers
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Jan 26, 2010 18:57:57 GMT
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drove to Taupo on saturday, raced all day sunday, then drove back, a total round trip of about 750k's. Toyo R888's are my new beast friend, i had the best time and went quicker all day and there is heaps of inprovement i could make to go faster. (all with my driving, car was willing me to go faster) car couldn't have been better, brakes were excellent (i never had the balls to push them further than they would go) and the tyres!! i would marry them if i could, as i say, i drove about 750k's on them, got through a whole tank of gas on the track so plenty of track time was had, and they still look good, they look better than when i bought them! the new rear setup worked so well, could chose between over steer or under steer when i wanted, lost it a couple of times (it rained at one point) and was easily able to get it back on track. realistically this just means i wasn't going fast enough but that will come, I'm yet to drive the same track twice so plenty of learning to go. some pics, not the best but you get the idea. with some luck my friend has shot some video from his car (followed me for a bit) and it will be on you tube. ill link it if it comes about. i started to get a missfire at full load. fairly common for higher boosted 1JZ's so I'm going to look at plugs and coils first (they havent been out since i built the car 6 years ago) some vids, no in-car yet but heres hoping, the guy in the yellow starlet had the camera so hopefully some good footage.... sheepers
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Jan 26, 2010 18:56:12 GMT
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Ive always hated the way the car sat so high at the back. its been like that since day one and its curse word me off completely. not to mention the handling issues associated with having the in the air. anyway, there has been some talk about height adjustable rear suspension so i thought i would post what i had done. really not a difficult job. i now have a completely height adjustable rear, and i can change spring rates with straight off the shelf parts. and because i have a good relationship with my suspension parts supplier i can try any spring i like and if its no good i can give them back with no charge! sweet. there's more than one way to skin a cat, but this is how i did it..... first you have to remove the old spring cone/bump stop. just drill out the spots. then get some 2 1/2" pipe (63mm OD) and cut two lengths about 20mm long. make two disks from 2mm plate about 90mm in diamater and weld an M8 nut in the center. then weld the bits of 2 1/2" tube onto the disks somewhere near the middle. i don't have a picture of these before i welded them to the car but this is one welded to the car. you cant see it in the photo very well but 90mm is about the same diameter as the spot welds that held the original cone in place so it makes it easier to line up the new plate when your tacking it into place. NOTE, once i had welded the plates into the car i then used the nut as a guide and drilled and tapped an M8 thread right through the body of the car. and this photo shows the stock bump stop in place. next i got some standard coilover sleeves and welded them onto the original spring perches. this takes a bit of curse word around and you'll probably have to put the diff in and take it out a few times to get the angles right. as the diff doesn't move directly up and down (especially as it gets to the top of its travel) you need to compromise with the fore and aft angle of the adjuster sleeve. these two photos show how much the top of the sleeve moves back as the diff goes down. in the "up" photo the bump stop is inside the top of the sleeve, i intend to make a tube with a solid top to go inside the sleeve for the bump stop to push on. the bump stop will not go into the sleeve when its all finished. then all you need is to adjust you height till it suits what you want and once your happy with the height and spring rate get your shocks shortened to keep it all captive. i have koni shocks that have enough travel to allow the drop in height at the back of the car with out binding but you'll need to check what you can get away with. oh, i also made some extensions for my bump stops so they would have some support rather than just the nut. all i did was cut some lengths of tube about the same diameter as the backing plate on the bump stop and extended the M8 stud that sticks out of the back of the bump stop. you can kind of see it in this pic. i have dropped the back of the car by 65mm and i lowered the front by 20mm. it has made a huge difference to how the car handles and ive only had it back on the road for a week, cant wait for the next track day.... ill post some pics of the car if it ever stops raining. if you have any questions just ask. it stopped raining. latter, sheepers
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Jan 26, 2010 18:55:07 GMT
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Jan 26, 2010 18:54:32 GMT
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Jan 26, 2010 18:49:50 GMT
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booked into the booth for final coat on the 24th
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Jan 26, 2010 18:49:06 GMT
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its finally ready to paint!!! it has taken me ages to finish the prep work because ive never done a whole car before and it takes a bit of time when your usless. ive just put the etch primer over the bare steel, ready for two pack primer. the front guards and bonnet are being file finished by my pannel beater mate. but I'm pretty happy with how its looking so far. ill be back on the road soon and I'm pretty happy about that. latter, sheepers
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Jan 26, 2010 18:48:04 GMT
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