|
|
Sept 23, 2014 20:55:19 GMT
|
old bikes and cars with cable driven Tacho's are the Chronometric type which are actually clockwork but driven by the cable. they are very accurate but usually very expencive. £1000's usually.
the S800 has a cable driven tacho which is the magnetic type which reads up to 11,000 rpm.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cheers. i'm still on bodywork making the chrome trims and other little bits fit before it's painted. doesn't really look any different in pictures. then the last part of the bodywork puzzle is making the doors fit better. they have fibrglass skins that didn't fit very well leaving large panel gaps. got these for the front brakes. radial mount four pot Wilwoods. they only cost £100 each. fit under the 13 inch wheels and easy to mount once the adapter plate has been made (i made a wooden one to mock up for dimentions)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2014 20:20:58 GMT
|
the grill fits much better. it isn't quite fitted as a metal fronted car as i have it overlapping the nose but that was the tidiest way i could fit it to this front end. as you can see to the right of the grill the headlamps were never fitted very well either. more time consuming work to align and sort the headlamp bowls to fit properly. hopefully i should be able to refit the front end permanantly by next weekend
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ordered the bolts from the States - $7 for 14, plus no doubt about £50 for shipping, duty, etc.! you don't pay duty on anything under $15 if i recall correctly. and anything small and light is peanuts to post. i sent a gauge to the USA and it cost about £3 postage. iv'e have stuff posted from the USA only costing a couple of Dollars postage. anything slightly larger and heavier and the postage costs sky rocket. work on the car looks great by the way .
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2014 14:09:47 GMT
|
you'll be glad to hear i am finally getting on with some work on the S800. selling the NOS engine block means i have a few quid to spare on the project so i have been ordering loads of little bits from ebay. at the moment i am modifyng the Kirky seats for ease of getting in and out of the car (i'm not a young chap anymore) amd tidying up the fibreglass front end. plan is to get the shell painted in the near future. i'm waiting for new seals for the master cylinders and i was quite happy to see that they have been relined with stainless inserts and are in very good condition. time wise the plan is to get the S800 done by 2017. reason is the car will be 50 years old and i'll have owned it for 10 years. doesn't time fly when your having fun master cylinders are going to be closed in to keep heat away as the exhaust system is now that side. the tube in the bulkhead is for heat, instead of a heater it'll get heat straight from the exhaust manifold. the front end isn't quite the right shape so the grille doesn't fit. mission is to make it fit. bit more fibrglassing to fill the bottom but looks much better with a proper grill. this is how it looked when i first got it
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
He's going on holiday tomorrow and is back logged so couldn't look at changing a dizzy over. I've always had very good service and advice from him. Any pitfalls to look out for in disassembling a dizzy for machining? those types of distibutors are quite common so do you need to worry about it having the correct numbers? unless for originalitly? tell you what i'll set the advance curve free of charge. let me know what advance curve you want and i'll set it into the distibutor. i'll even give you a tour of the workshop and store if you could make it to Battle. i'm back at work next week so if your interested send me a PM
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 17, 2014 0:51:28 GMT by Bozwell
|
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2014 20:28:55 GMT
|
Cursedy cursewordy curse-word! Distributor Doctor has some new ones at £300 each but only with either Jag or Austin Healey advance curves and neither would do a Bedford much good. not much of a Doctor if he can't change the advance curve? it's not rocket science, i change advance curves all the time. and also how does he know it wont do the Bedford any good? modern fuels are so different to what what they were 50 years ago. when they went to unleaded in the 90's retarding the timing was common place but now modern fuels will take and need much more advance probably because it burns slower. you could probably get a good curve and timing settings using the butt dyno.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
May 10, 2014 17:01:33 GMT
|
that will only work if the other three are matching between carbs and you get the fourth in the same place and the same size as the other. you can't just randomly drill holes in the carbs without knowing what affect it has on the mixture. modifing the progression holes will mean an idle jet change. the idle jet has the main fuel feed in the bottom and an air bleed in the side. ie 50F8 and 50F6 has the same 0.5mm jet size but different size air bleeds which change the mixture at light throttle openings but hardly changes the mixture at idle. (the idle mixture screw also has a partial affect at light throttle openings so leaning with the screw will also partially lean progression) the later carbs have an air bleed screw in the body which is NOT for balancing the idle. it is there to tune progression. it causes air to bypass the butterfly so as to lean the mixture at idle but will allow more fuel through progression at light throttle openings by allowing the mixture screw to be out further or run a larger jet.. it is another way to tune progression. with the earlier carbs without an air bypass i have drilled a small hole in the centre of the butterfly to do the above. there is only a certain amount of tuning you can do with idle jets, the rest is with cunning modification of the carburettor
|
|
Last Edit: May 10, 2014 17:10:08 GMT by Bozwell
|
|
|
|
May 10, 2014 14:11:06 GMT
|
be fine flat out. drivability will be affected, maybe not enough to notice but it will be affected.
mismatching carbs isn't ideal and will be harder to set up leading to "weber carbs are (insert your own swear word)". also matched carbs may not have the correct progression holes anyway for the application thay are used on and will also be near impossible to set up.
iv'e tuned quite a few engines where iv'e modified progression holes or added some.
DCOE 9's i thought were the prefered carbs for old school Ford engines.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
the 152g was brought out for 16valve engines as they seemed more sensative to progression and needed the extra hole.
ideally the progressions needs to match for smoother running at light throttle.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2014 20:55:11 GMT
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2014 22:58:01 GMT
|
a few to choose from in the last picture they look dim because the camers compensated but belive me i was seeing dots for quite a while. i suppose really i should try some more expencive ones to see if the extra money will be worth it?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2014 22:32:24 GMT
|
the resisters must be in the bulbs for the sidelight part of the side/brake bulb to dim the LED's down. it's the brake lights that then backfeed putting all the sidelights on. a diode in the system cured this. it may be just the cheap china ones i'm using. i'll go and take loads of photos of the bulbs. some have 120 LED's fitted.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2014 22:09:42 GMT
|
LED's are measured in lumens. (brightness) ? and sometimes given a wattage equivelent.
even my old Integra has four side/brake lights on the rear. i don't think there is a max amount of the old style bulbs you are allowed to use so i guess in theory you could have 20 21w old style brakelight bulbs and still be legal? the main thing is to have the correct brightness for the side and brake to be legal, not so sure on quantity.
the only problem iv'e encountered with the replacement LED bulb is that the brake light will feed the sidelight through the internal resister. i fitted a diode in the wiring to cure this.
a little trick iv'e done with the Barracuda rear lights is to have a small red LED in the indicater lamp so it glows red with the sidelights and fitted in the main bulb holder a bright orange LED which easily overpowers the red LED when the indicator flashes.
and another advantage of LED bulbs is you can use micro wiring instead of the chunky wiring normally used on older vehicles.
|
|
Last Edit: Feb 15, 2014 22:13:10 GMT by Bozwell
|
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2014 11:25:12 GMT
|
iv'e tried loads of different ones and some are brighter than others but no i would not say the ones i have are brighter than ordinary bulbs. the reason i'm using them is for the tiny power consumption they use.
iv'e only got cheap china ones as they can get quite expencive otherwise. i think they work well enough.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2014 21:32:05 GMT
|
there are also COB led bulbs with different colours which i have a few of to try
|
|
|
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2014 21:14:06 GMT
|
ive got loads of direct fitment LED bulbs as i'm changing everything in the S800 and Barracuda.
you're welcome to pop round and have a look to see what i have. some could probably be taken apart easily.
give me a quick bell first to make sure i'm in.
|
|
|
|