ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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I've got this one now that the very old one from Aldi has died. www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/battery-chargers/halfords-advanced-workshop-12a-smart-charger-191179.htmlI used to link two batteries together to trick the Aldi one into thinking a flat battery was greater than 6v... I'm 99% certain my new charger didn't need that effort the other week. I was rushing so didn't take too much notice. It might be a bit too pricey and have too many features for some though. If your friend has a camper but uses the single vehicle battery, investing in a leisure battery and split charge relay may be a better idea.
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Last Edit: Apr 22, 2024 3:37:15 GMT by ferny
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Lead additive questionferny
@ferny
Club Retro Rides Member 13
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Some brands are curse word. I used to use Castrol as it was regarded as one of the best, but then didn't bother.
If your engine was designed to be used in America (certainly California) there's a good chance it won't be needed. Their emission restrictions were much firmer before ours and engines were built to suit. There's also a theory of lead memory, where lead deposits embedded in the head negate the need for it. That would probably be a myth in my head. Another theory is that the metal has become hardened through heat cycles and constant tapping from use and is now already hard.
I've had valve seat recession on unleaded engines, converted engines and non-unlead engines. I used to drive them very hard and I also think luck plays a role.
Would I buy and use it now? Not on an old engine. But I'd keep an extra eye on the the adjustments and check more frequently than really needed.
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Last Edit: Apr 20, 2024 8:09:34 GMT by ferny
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Feb 11, 2024 13:02:45 GMT
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Well, not actually a boat, but something with less metal. I've been pretty unwell since Saturday and stuck in bed since Thursday so thought I'd try and be productive yesterday and replace the broken wheel studs from the RBRR. Bit of a mistake as it turns out, for two reasons; 1 - I ended up back in bed afterwards 2 - I've found yet another rust hole Annoying as it's not like the car is 55+ years old, sits outside all year and only covered about 2300 miles last year (2k miles was the RBRR weekend)... Anyhoo, it leaves me considering fibreglass options again. Years ago I fancied a Sammio but I'm not overly keen on the proportions. But for a while now I've been keeping an eye on the Formosa. Two issues (again); 1 - it'd mean no more RBRR for this car due to no roof 2 - my engine is about 6 inches further back than standard so there may be packaging issues. What are peoples thoughts or experiences? I'm done with a welding session each year but I don't want to recycle the car either! Here are some Sammio and Formosa pictures.
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Don't use the fuel hoses which come with them or the clips as they're curse word. Also, make sure the wiring is done carefully as they can play games if there's voltage drop. If you can get a CO meter nearby it's worth putting one in too. The fixing plates are pretty pants and the last thing you want is to find out when driving!
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Question for the drag racersferny
@ferny
Club Retro Rides Member 13
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Nov 10, 2023 18:17:47 GMT
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Watching with interest as the long term plan is to do sportsman ET with the Herald. Although I wasn't aware of the 12s rule.
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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HoTWire - as BiAS says, it became unbonded. Apparently a common fault with these which must have been at the back of my mind when checking. I've had the van a year and had the scuttle off to black up the plastic in the summer. I'd noticed it was a little rusty, but it was just on the surface. Knowing that and the other sides nuts being really tight suggests these aren't the originals to the van and its only done 68k miles .
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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2016 Fiat Dodlo I had an issue this week where the wiper refused to work when starting the van on my driveway. When moving a few metres they worked. At one point they stopped working over a bump and they seemed to be far worse when reversing. I also felt like the van was rocking with them moving, but couldn't fathom a reason for a connection. There was also a clonk when going over some speed bumps and I was wondering if it was pulling mildly to rathe right and planned to check if a tyre was a PSI or two low. No real reason to connect the things going on as I'd done about 250 miles the weekend before with no problems. It was the strut top. It had pushed through and was touching the wiper mechanism. This explains the knocking noise which developed at the same time (thought/hoped it was either wood in the back or the undertray) and also why the wipers failed more when reversing (caster change). First side took longer to replace as I lost a nut, which was on top of the brake reservoir... 🤦♂️ but the second side took 45 mins from wheel off to wheel on. Plus, Monroe parts from GSF were £35 each. I'd call that a win. Anything not involving chasing electrical faults is always a win! And the van at Mallory Park this year.
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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fuel injection plumbing?ferny
@ferny
Club Retro Rides Member 13
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Yep. Do I bit of Googling for "deadhead" systems and you'll get plenty of explanations and examples.
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Oct 31, 2022 20:09:36 GMT
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Oct 21, 2022 19:40:49 GMT
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Oooo. That's interesting as they came off a TR7 but I don't ever remember seeing one with them before.
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Oct 21, 2022 17:51:32 GMT
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Not 100% sure , but look like a version of the CX ?? That's my thinking too. But all the ones I find only have two ID markings on the rim, these have three - brand, size and made in England. I'm just wondering how odd or rare they are. They only cost £40.
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Last Edit: Oct 21, 2022 17:51:57 GMT by ferny
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Oct 21, 2022 15:52:54 GMT
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Last Edit: Oct 21, 2022 16:00:45 GMT by ferny
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Cheers for the replies guys. Sadly nothing stuck in the tyre. 👍😕 It’s unwanted end-float on one or more axes of the UJ as per my reply on CT. Meant also to say that given the power train you are running, and your enthusiastic use of it….. shrapnel is inevitable 😛. The swing axle set up is fairly curse word in many ways and as it all gets older you can add randomly shedding wheels and brake drum to all the other ways it tries to kill you. Suggest roto conversion with CVs as a minimum, preferably with alternative (R160?) diff as well. Really something more robust than that even would be better. Nick The subaru conversion is an ever ongoing project. It'll get done at some point, unless the car kills me first! I'm currently in the process of measuring circlip grooves in the hope of getting trickier ones. Usual suppliers of triumph bit either no longer have a selection or only one thicker offering but then expensive postage on a part costing pennies. I've got two new GKN UJ's to go in too. And I'm glad as this is how the one which has done approximately 30 miles looks.
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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So, back in June I was driving down the A5 in the Herald when there was a big bang and the car decided to go dancing down the dual carriage way. It was probably quite a nice view for the car I'd just gone past... I'll attach a photo of the carnage but in word form the o/s UJ went kaboomy and the only things keeping the wheel on the car were the leaf spring bush and radius arm bolts. As the UJ joke was now slightly mangled (and the chassis torn from being beaten by a half haft shaped mace) I replaced the entire shaft and both UJ's - so both n/s and o/s. I used white box ones off eBay, but not cheap ones and they were listed as Heavy Duty Land Rover Freelander. I drove the car maybe 25 miles before it started to make a clicking noise and on investigation found a UJ cap on the o/s had departed, meaning the UJ was flapping about. So, I replaced that (again) with a brand new Hardy Spicer one I had floating around. Took the car to work and after about 50 meters... click click click. Can I find the cause for the click? Can I banana! I've had it up in the air, I've rotated wheels forwards, backwards and sideways. I've even rested the half shafts on rollers so the car is "resting" on its wheels. The diff seems fine and if it wasn't I assume it'd be in pieces now anyway. My only thought right now is that the Freelander UJ on the n/s is knackered. If they're rubbish quality it would explain why the cap on the o/s UJ went walkies for no apparent reason. Honestly a weird one that! I'm going to replace it and see what happens. Please help save my sanity? I've not driven the car really since June because of this!
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Last Edit: Oct 1, 2022 9:53:49 GMT by ferny
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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RRG Thanksferny
@ferny
Club Retro Rides Member 13
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Sept 20, 2022 16:26:12 GMT
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I think the campsite thing might have something to do with it been cold maybe, as I've literally never seen everybody as absolutely hammered as we all were, along with trying to stay near enough to a fire to keep warm. I'm not sure, the campsite just didn't feel quite as involving maybe. I don't want to get into massive comparisons with Shelsley, but there it didn't really matter where you were on the campsite because it was just a circle, so everyone inevitably ended up wandering or driving past. Whereas at Mallory it kinda had a core and the a couple of offshoots where it felt less involved. The problem is, camping trackside also had the massive plus of being able to watch the Quick 60 from the tent, so I'm not sure how to balance it. Organise a flotilla and camp on the lake?
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Sept 19, 2022 20:36:14 GMT
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I took a couple with my phone after using the facilities. These ones had the best timing.
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Sept 19, 2022 12:59:27 GMT
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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RRG Thanksferny
@ferny
Club Retro Rides Member 13
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Sept 18, 2022 18:06:20 GMT
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Yep, best one yet. Few issues, which will always be the case. Camping bit cramped, felt like info for the event was a bit thin. But being able to get out of the tent, sit on your bum for a while and then cook breakfast at 11am whilst still being in the show and watching the action was absolutely fantastic.
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Last Edit: Sept 18, 2022 18:06:57 GMT by ferny
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Sept 1, 2022 18:59:14 GMT
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As others have said, should be pretty straightforward but does depend on which engine yours going for. To go with what nathan has posted, here is a list of some of the files I have if you need anything.
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Nitrile glovesferny
@ferny
Club Retro Rides Member 13
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Aug 31, 2022 16:05:10 GMT
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This popped up on my suggested list the other day. I've not watched it to see how useful it'll be though.
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Last Edit: Aug 31, 2022 16:05:22 GMT by ferny
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