froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Jun 15, 2013 13:31:23 GMT
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I didn't as it was mid engined so I had the luxury of changing sprockets to gear it up . What size wheels are you using ? If you have around 22" diameter I would try get something 3.1 or taller . Some Rialto reliants have a 2.78 diff in and I've run fiat twink and crossflows in kittens back in the day on stock axles which coped ok . I've got a 3.2 robin axle in my yard if you need some measurements . If you go irs turn the freelander has a 3.2 diff in but I can't think of anything else that isn't rare
I was looking at the Morgan trike as it drives an mx5 box , I would imagine they use a primary' drive to sort the reduction ratio before driving the Mazda box
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Jun 15, 2013 10:12:55 GMT
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Keep the exhaust separate and they do spit flames quite nicely on the overrun . Hydraulic mounts for the engine cradle are worth a look with a damper at the top . I don't have much video of my kitten with the single tl but the vibes were awful with poly bushes supporting the cradle
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Trt is two tubes with rubber between them as a shock absorber . You won't be getting anywhere near 140 with 110hp and barn Door aerodynamics .
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Two piece prop with a trt tube as a damper on the front section .13 mph per 1000 rpm is where you want to be
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Jun 13, 2013 19:26:59 GMT
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clocks arent needed on the s version .i ran my engines on open filters but gained a lot of torque low down with the stock air box .the r might be less fussy having the extra set of injectors in . my first tl engined build ran pretty tall gearing as it was chain drive and would do 60mph at 4500rpm which sounded lovely but ran very limp mid 14 1/4 times. geared down to the more normal 10mph per 1000rpm ran 13.8 and sub 5 second 0-60 but anything over 50mph felt like you needed an extra gear . it still pulled away nicely with the tall gearing though and was quick enough up to 80mph
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Jun 13, 2013 18:47:02 GMT
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Ended up with 25mm thick plates for the rear end and it looks much less like a pram now Don't think they will bend Steering arms needed to come down over 4" so cut and reinforced the originals with a hefty gusset in the middle Re used the top of the strut tower with a 12 swg ring to lift the leg up into the cab Donor lump has had a quick clean up and fresh belts just needs a few tweaks to the loom Next job engine out and the cunning plan is to hang the front of the van off the 4 post ramp as the engine is slightly wider than the gap between the ramps so the volvo can sit blocked up on a pallet truck and the van lowered into it . Last time I did this was on old mk3 escorts where you could hang the front off a ramp and swap the clutch with the box hanging off the driveshafts ,
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Jun 12, 2013 22:23:55 GMT
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Try and find a really tall diff as the noise is best at 4500rpm . They work best with the stock airbox and the later tlr motor has two injectors per pot and smoother delivery than the s . The r motor is hydraulic clutch but the slave Cyl shouldn't interfere with the propshaft
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Jun 11, 2013 11:25:41 GMT
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Welding done:-) Just so brackets to make for the front end. Got all the front end bonded back together and the bonnet widened. that front end look familiar
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Turned out a lot simpler to get the rear down once the drum came off as the hub bolts to the axle . With the new tyre there is room for a 20mm thick spacer to move the hub up 4" and leave everything else untouched Before After The front end is a bit more complex as the strut needs to go up into the cab to keep the shock travel but there is plenty of room between the top and the dash to add a 3.5" extension . The steering arms bolt on to the back if the hub so should be easy enough to bend . If the volvo rack can be re used il mount it lower down to lengthen the shaft between the rack and column to remove some of the angle that the uj,s run at . I thought I would get more of a drop than 4" but any further means serious surgery of the front chassis rails and strut towers so il settle for where it is .
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Made a start on the lowering and suspension mods today first off fitting a set of 65 profile tyres which has given an inch drop with an inch clearance up front and tucked the rear in enough to go under the arch lip at the back as the arches are at different heights front to rear Back axle out tomorrow and putting the beam on top of the springs should give me another 4" touch wood . Modern vans run roll bars at both ends but to start with I'm adding a rear bar from a late Renault master which is a simple job and see how that goes with the volvo motor in . Wiring is sorted and down to one relay and two feeds one ignition switched . One of my business neighbours is a shopfitting firm and I spied some long brushed stainless tubes in the scrap pile today so il be over with the tape measure in the morning as I need around 8ft to run the 3" exhaust to the back of the van . We weighed an old steel wheel with the big tyre and its 6kg lighter with the small tyre and alloy
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Identified whats needed to make it run so big chopping session tomorrow and pretty much the same type if relay setup I used in the kitten . With the front off the car I can pull the driveshafts and rip the lot out from the top
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Clutch switch is a common issue and the throttle pedal potentiometer but I'm seeing more wiring issues with these vans as they are getting on now
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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I made my own using the ends of an old bar and a length of cds tube in the middle slid over the ends of the old bar to lengthen it . No issues
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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I've had hymers on my test ramp that were over 4 Ton gross so god knows how they get anywhere especially up hills . The modern jtd engines are pretty good but it would be keyhole surgery in an a class camper . I'm making the front crossmember removable so the drivetrain can be wheeled in and out to speed up the fabrication work and free up some space if the engine needs tipping forward
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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I get my wiring diagrams from diakom which makes life a lot easier , I wouldn't attempt it with the later fly by wire engine with all the can bus guff attached to it but this is quite straight forward as the swedes do nice things like label all the relays for you
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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There are a couple of kits based on the kitten that look similar and one of the three wheeler diffs has a 2.8 diff it it which will be useful with a bike engine . 3.2 is the standard ratio for the kitten
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Identified whats needed to make it run so big chopping session tomorrow and pretty much the same type if relay setup I used in the kitten . With the front off the car I can pull the driveshafts and rip the lot out from the top
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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What about an mx5 donor with a simple ladder connecting the front and rear subframes ? Shorten the centre spine to suit the wheelbase ,
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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There are some pics floating round of a 7 on top of a Caterham type chassis , eBay normally has a selection of half built cars done of them running and driving . Would save a big chunk of time and money if you get a part built with the right engine in
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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May 30, 2013 20:56:35 GMT
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I'm still on diesel power in the camper , no doubt the Saab lump would have been fine but the gearbox was a concern as the van must be 2.2 ton loaded . The volvo boxes seem to have wear issues at very high mileage but I haven't seen any failures on a mildly tuned engine . The diff isn't quite as low as I'd like but with 65 series tyres is geared for 85mph at 2750rpm in top or 70mph in 4th .
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