ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Jul 24, 2020 22:23:53 GMT
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On another note, the exhaust from the turbo to the cat, a magnet won't stick to it. Does that mean its stainless?
I'm planning on deleting the cat while I'm underneath and fitting a different backbox
It seems to have quite a large bore right from the turbo
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Jul 24, 2020 22:04:00 GMT
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Gearbox came out today There's a couple of jobs I want to do while the gearbox is out and access is so good The brake bomb needs changing as I can feel it recharge while braking And I want to change the central steering rack Bush. This would be a nightmare with the gearbox in. Other than that, the flywheel will need changing. Not sure if I need one that's specific to the mc-2 engine as there seems to be 2 probes. One counting the starter ring teeth and one looking at a pin which I presume is tdc. Both frame rails look good but have light surface rust so I'll sort that. And the bracket that holds the horns on looks like it could do with some intervention before it gets too bad So coming up next will be lots of cleaning and painting Cheers
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Jul 24, 2020 13:41:22 GMT
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A simple brake pad swap has turned into a front and rear brake overhaul, rust removal and general tart up of the suspension components. Front bearing change means front strut removal on these....which necessitated cutting off of one of the TCA's...and led me to discover both bottom ball joints are knackered....as are the anti roll bar bushes...and the strut damper rubber gaiters....and the top mounts creak. While I was at it I thought I may as well renew the driveshafts cv joint boots....and the front subframe bushes look shot...as do the gearbox mounts. That leaking 3 speed auto-box which really ruins how this thing drives. Sod it it's all coming out. I already have a 5 speed box to go in and the front end is sloppy to the point of being slightly terrifying in the bends. Struts and anti roll bar out Followed by the front subframe. The bushes on these are notorious for giving a sloppy feel. I've just found out they can be solid mounted with alloy bushes Slight rust on the bottom of the top mounts I think is actually off of the strut tops. On the subject of strut tops, now would be a good time to swap to coil-overs which would give me some precious arch space. I'm regretting not disconnecting the driveshafts from the box while the wheels were still on. I reckon if I had one of those windy rattle guns they'd come off. Which leaves us here at the moment. There's quite a bit to disconnect to remove the box and access is terrible. Mr Haynes is telling me to make an engine support hoist but it already has two engine mounts on its sides and the snubber at the front. It'll be fine. So tax and insurance cancelled on the audi as I reckon it'll be at least 6 months before its on the road again. In other news I've gone an bought a very cheap r53 mini cooper s which has sat for 6 months and then snapped it's aux belt when started up. I reckon water pump is the most likely culprit but we shall see. That means that the yellow mini will be surplus to requirements, which is good as the gearbox is knackered. Probably beyond rebuilding by the sound of it. So I'm toying with just scrapping it as I've got too much work on my plate to warrant rebuilding or replacing the gearbox. So lots happening 😁
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Jul 13, 2020 20:38:53 GMT
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Wired it into the car having removed a lot of scotch blocks. The existing wiring only allows it to run on battery power, no switched power so I need to run a wire from somewhere so it comes on automatically. Check the ignition switch for a small terminal. This should go +12v when switched to ign on and go away when you remove the key. Will do. Was planning on doing either that or running a new ignition switched supply form the fuse board. I need to have a fish around anyway. The electric windows are run from a switch with only the fronts working, which I presume is too get around an electric window module fault and the switches on the dash don't light up with the headlights on. There's something funny going on.
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Jul 13, 2020 19:35:47 GMT
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Thought I'd give a little update on the daily. All has been going well since the boost hose has been fixed. The radio the car came to me with was a horrible Tevion modern flashy Bluetooth thing. Wired in so that it's permanently on unless you power it off and speakers wired in wonky, the fronts being font left and rear right and the opposite wired in for the back. Also intermittent in operation. Anyway, while driving the facia decided to ping itself off onto the floor. The little plastic tab thing had broken off. And in the bin it went. I fancied something a bit more period. Had to have red display to match the car, aux lead, tape player and preferably rds radio and some half decent output. Found this Came with a fault with the tape deck. It all functioned properly except slow playback which just turned out to be the belt had jumped off the motor pulley. Wired it into the car having removed a lot of scotch blocks. The existing wiring only allows it to run on battery power, no switched power so I need to run a wire from somewhere so it comes on automatically. It all works though. I've got the aux working through the ai-net CD changer port. Just need a cage and the surround to finish it off. Next on the to-do list. Brakes After having to brake sharply I got a grinding noise from the brakes. Nursed it home thinking it was the fronts. The brake wear indicator is snapped on one of the fronts and they looked low so ordered new pads. Took old pads of only to find they still had meat on them. Turns out its the rear The pad material has separated from the backing. The front discs are also warped and some rust is starting to appear at the rear edge of the front wheel arch so thought sod it and started stripping everything down for a refresh. Wanted to paint the front calipers red to match the rears anyway. The extent of the rust. It's actually just part of the front wings the sills are fine. New metal welded in both sides And painted for now in jotun epoxy paint. I will repaint one day. I also took the time to strip, rust treat and paint the struts. Front calipers have received a lick of paint I've ordered front and rear caliper rebuild kits and sliders, front and rear discs and pads, flexi hoses and front wheel bearings as there's a bit of play. Edit* The brake refresh is very much a temporary measure to keep it roadworthy. I plan on upgrading to bigger discs and audi Q7 brake calipers for the front. Not sure on the back yet. The whole front end will need re-bushing as well as a lick of paint. Before all that though, the 5 speed box I have needs fitting as the 3 speed auto is dire. To do that I might need to buy a scrapper for all the bits
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Last Edit: Jul 13, 2020 20:35:13 GMT by ivangt6
1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Ivans garage/mancave buildivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Metal framed shelves bolted to the walls is a very good idea. I have been moving the weight to the edges of the floors upstairs as and when more flooring has gone in. The joists are 2x4 and I'm thinking of doubling them up but I'm not sure whether I'd be adding any significant strength or merely just adding weight. The lighting isn't posing a problem where it is at the moment. The tubes are plastic so won't shatter if I hit them and I think I'd lose light coverage by mounting them between the joists. Led strips are a good idea though as are adding extra sockets down the ceiling in the middle. I was actually going to do that but didn't have the type of socket I'd want to do it at the time. Easy enough to add into the ring main though. All in good time I'm in the middle of buying the roofing for the carport at the minute. Currently looking at these sheets from toolstation www.toolstation.com/corrapol-corrugated-pvc-sheet/p56855Seem like they should do the job and hopefully they're a little tinted like they look in the picture so they stop it turning into a greenhouse in the summer. Then I'm planning on running strings of bulbs underneath. It's going to be right next to where the decking area is going to be so needs to look nice. That's not a problem anyway. What I'm not looking forward to is the block paving. If it were up to me I'd just concrete it but her indoors won't have it so block paving it is. This might be something I get a professional to do depending on what quotes I get
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Ivans garage/mancave buildivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Any carport or T3 news? Thom Nothing really worth updating about. I've mainly been busy stripping the staircase back, staining and painting it, ready for carpet. Something that I never want to do again. That an other house type jobs have taken up nearly all my time over the last few months. I have found time to remove the majority of the gravel from the carport area, move the GT6 outside and the bus indoors. Once this staircase nonsense is over I should be able to get back to the carport roofing, lighting and flooring.
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Morris 575 2.0 16v ivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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May 28, 2020 21:40:35 GMT
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Maybe sticking with the golf bits, a mk1 golf front spoiler might work
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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'79 mini 1000ivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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May 21, 2020 12:15:35 GMT
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Well I didn't take any pictures of the destruction. But the rear subframe mounting area has been cut out and repairs made to the inner sill The lower skin in this area looked a bit suspect and there were 2 sets of sills welded to the lower edge Decided to strip it back It doesn't look too bad but underneath was a different story. You can see some light coming through No point in cleaning up the lower edge then as it'll be coming out. Just waiting on gas and panels now. I don't want to do too much more until I can get the subframe mount back in and make sure that's all still square
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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'79 mini 1000ivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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May 12, 2020 15:54:29 GMT
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Got this welded in today. I got a little bit of distortion despite welding up slowly. The nature of the beast I suppose. So I'll be dressing it a bit to get it flat again. For now its been ground back carefully and some etch primer applied I'm pretty much out of gas now as well. Might be a little while before any more updates as I've a few other things that need paying for at the moment
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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'79 mini 1000ivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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May 10, 2020 19:27:11 GMT
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I got 2 hours free today so thought I'd carry on with the sill All the flanges look good. So welded up where I'd got a bit keen with the grinder and spot weld drill bit and treated with some hydrate 80 Inside the crossmember is surprisingly good. Just a small bit seen on the right that got wired and treated And the next section made up Hopefully I'll get away without too much distortion when I weld it in next time
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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'79 mini 1000ivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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May 10, 2020 19:20:48 GMT
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The rot in your roof is nothing. I had to cut 2 inches up and 12 inches back to get rid of the rot in my Mini Ritz roof. Stop being a wimp and get welding. After sorting the boot floor, it should be childs play. Yours A long suffering mini owner. (Until I got sick of them} It's probably good enough to Pidgeon s**t the holes up but a carbon fibre roof bonded in its place would be a nice addition
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Last Edit: May 10, 2020 19:21:35 GMT by ivangt6
1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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'79 mini 1000ivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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May 10, 2020 19:18:50 GMT
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Try turning your wire speed down a couple of notches you l get less build up, your doing a cracking job, I tip my hat to ye. Wire speed is actually about right. It might just look a bit heavy in the pics because of the zintec coating burning off around the welds
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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'79 mini 1000ivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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My cheap, pattern wheel well turned up today so thought I'd get on with that. I only want the front and back sections so I went for a cheap panel as I was only going to cut it up. Measured up and cut out the bit I need for the back. And its nowhere near the correct shape So this plan has backfired already. I tried making this section from flat sheet a couple of weeks ago but was beaten by the compound curves and didn't want to make a patchwork quilt by chopping it up and stitching it together. I wanted a single panel to let in but now I'm going to have to butcher this to get it to fit. I ended up chopping a bit out from further up the pattern panel as one edge was much closer to fitting. The other end however was miles out and needed a fair bit of massaging to get it to follow the right curves I could then use the bottom section from the piece I originally cut out. This also needed a lot of fettling and chopping to get it close but we're getting somewhere. Welded up on the vice. It then had the welds dressed back and plug weld holes added And its in. Not happy but it'll do. Next to replace the section of adjoining panel. Which has a joggled edge Welded Then dressed back and seam sealed. I'm trying to replicate the factory seam sealer so it is quite scruffy I suppose Some round the back. And inside. I might have ballsed this up as theres a subframe mounting point reinforcement bracket to weld on around this area. So some of the seam sealer might have to come back off here. And some paint. Doesn't look as bad with a lick of paint although there's a dent that now obvious. I'll dress that back next time. I'm thinking of leaving the front part for now despite having the panel to chop this section out. The reason being that the closing panel just in front of it and the heel board and front subframe mounting bracket need to be done before it so that I have access to weld them in properly. I don't have those parts yet and to attach the heelboard/subframe mount to the car I need to repair the inner sill in that area. So that needs doing next really Enjoy your evening!
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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@grumpynorthener Hi Chris. Paint question. What sort of 2k primer have you used? I'm at the stage where I'm applying just aerosol red oxide primer as I do little jobs just to keep the rust off. Am I better off stripping that back, then applying an epoxy primer, then a high build poly or can I key that stuff back then apply an epoxy or go straight for high build. This is mainly for underneath and inside where I'm not too bothered about finish, more durability and rust proofing. The outer panels I am planning on stripping back and starting with an epoxy 2k primer Many thanks Ivan
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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New hose turned up today. Had to cut it down a bit but it fits nicely and seems thicker than the bmw one. It's also red. Job jobbed
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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'79 mini 1000ivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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This level of detail is great, please continue it! I'm going to be doing a very similar job on mine and it'll be the first time I've done such extensive body repair, so I'm a bit nervous! Just get stuck in and have a go. Worst case scenario is that you have to cut out what you've done and start again, something I've had to do many times and there are still areas on the car from my early work about 15 years ago now that'll need chopping out and re-doing. All I would say is wear decent goggles, ear defenders, mask and gloves as a minimum. You can redo work on the car but not replace eyes, lungs etc. And most importantly keep it fun. If you're not in the mood, leave it a few days. There's no rush.
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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'79 mini 1000ivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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So what do we thinks underneath this badly tacked on oversill then? The remains of the original? Well. No surprisingly So what do we have? Starting at the back, the subframe mounting area is holed, thin and crispy. Scrap. The side bin stiffener looks OK for the most part. The seat belt mounting point itself looks ok Jacking point and surroundings. Scrap Front sill stiffener. Scrap. Although the a-post stiffener looks OK. The door step has also been replaced at some point and is tacked on poorly. All will be replaced apart from some of the rear inner sill. I've got sheet steel and the inner sill panel I bought for the other side was rubbish so I'll just make this side Hopefully you can see, but there's pink lines where I'm going to cut and replace. Unfortunately my steel sheet isn't long enough to do it in one go. Outline of what I'm saving around the seat belt point. And the area of floor pan that'll be removed. Starting at the back. Chopity chop Small repair needed to the bottom of the door bin. Repair piece made and welded in Ground back, painted and the hole added. And where the slinging shoe will go. More soon
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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'79 mini 1000ivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Great work, keep it coming. I fancy getting a mini again for a bit of fun but they are silly money now. I had a cooper and a couple of cooper s back in the seventies, great fun. Norman They're great cars. The only way to do it cheapish now is to by a rusty one and fix it up.
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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late 70s / 80s cafe racer style. Rear roll cage, simple interior, twin SUs, 10" wheels and not too much chrome. Sounds good to me. What colour are you going for?
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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